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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Also noticed that the AP 1 does not work with license place installed on the lower front via Sho and Sto removable license plate assembly. Has anyone else noticed this? Apparently there is a sensor in the lower front grill that the license plate is blocking. Also noticed that ez pass will not work withing the vehicle. Any input always welcome on this
 
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I had the same problem with ezpass. Supposedly right next to the mirror should work, but it still didn’t for me.

I ended up getting the license plate mounted pass.

If you placed the license plate too low, you are probably interfering with the radar. It’s a square piece of plastic (about 4”x4”) at the lower part of the front of the car. The factory bracket shouldn’t interfere however. On my 2015, the license is right in the middle of the nose cone.
 
While I think they are a bit more reliable than the in the earliest years, the S door handles do still fail. I had one replaced (the whole thing because the service center didn't have parts then) in 2016. As it happens, the same handle failed again a couple of weeks ago — broken wire to one of the microswitches, perhaps the most common problem. In addition to replacing the microswitch harness, the mobile service technician replaced the paddle gear, although the old one showed no signs of failing. The cost for the parts, sales tax, and service visit to my garage was $237.

So, I've had one handle fail twice (front passenger side) but not the other three. Go figure.

If you want to buy a used Model S you might just budget for some repairs, assuming that you don't get one with a warranty. The big stuff, battery and drive unit, has an eight year warranty on most Model S versions. Prices are way lower than when I bought my used Model S; assuming that you get a low enough price you can afford to pay for some repairs if they crop up.

Well if I did have a technician come over to replace a door handle, I would've asked him to move that harness around and glue it heavily so it doesn't come loose again. I wonder if that's possible? If not then I guess I would have to open the door up myself and change the way the harness is set as well as glueing the sucker.
 
Well if I did have a technician come over to replace a door handle, I would've asked him to move that harness around and glue it heavily so it doesn't come loose again. I wonder if that's possible? If not then I guess I would have to open the door up myself and change the way the harness is set as well as glueing the sucker.
That's an interesting idea because the wire breaks as it enters the microswitch. What the Ranger did do was to cut the cable ties that held all the wires together and not replace them. When I asked him about it, he said, in effect, that it gives the wires more freedom of movement when the door handle presents.

This makes sense because that movement is what stresses the wire as it enters the microswitch and the rest of the wire can't easily flex.

Reinforcing that joining of the wire to the microswitches with a bit of glue could help help prevent it breaking there. The rest of the wire is strengthened by its insulation -- it breaks right at the joint with the microswitch.
 
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If you look at the lower grill section of your front bumper, you’ll see a fairly small black rectangle piece. That’s the radar for autopilot, so if it’s covered (in addition to the camera at the top of the front windshield), autopilot won’t be able to function.
 
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Car is functioning as expected, no notifications in the screen, but found some strange error messages when connected to CID. Any Ideas? Should I worry about it?


carserver/recentAlerts,
THC_d0004_pumpPT @2019-02-10T11:52:54 @hidden @,
THC_d0005_pumpBat1 @2019-02-10T11:52:54 @hidden @,
EPAS_d048_KFC_EPB_TIMO @2019-02-10T21:47:37 @hidden @2019-02-10T21:50:53,
EPAS_d076_KFC_DAS_TIMO @2019-02-10T21:47:38 @hidden @2019-02-10T21:50:53,


I have THC_d0004_pumpPT and THC_d0005_pumpBat1 as well, along with THC_d0006_pumpBat2 and CHG_d011_proxRationality. Not sure what to make of it yet.
 
I posted a thread in "driving dynamics" but not sure if here is a better place to ask.

My car as of the last few weeks is making a strange high pitch sound coming from the rear motor when hard-accelerating. It is very different than the normal electric-motor-whine. It sounds like a dog whistle, or air escaping from a balloon. It's...concerning because it doesn't sound like a sound a car would make. Only happens when really trying to accelerate fast, but it also feels like my acceleration is a little more sluggish than usual (and my energy usage has been averaging much higher despite my driving not being any different). Is this a mechanical issue of any kind?
 
Ah...thank you, yikes that doesn't sound great. Is it something that is like an emergency or just something to get checked out when it is next convenient?

Checked when convenient, Tesla waited till it got worse and the error came up on the dash stating Acceleration reduced contact tesla when convenient. This came up while my wife was on a solo road trip with the kiddos so was a bit concerned but car continued to operate normally. That was 2yrs ago now and no issues since they fixed it.
 
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Checked when convenient, Tesla waited till it got worse and the error came up on the dash stating Acceleration reduced contact tesla when convenient. This came up while my wife was on a solo road trip with the kiddos so was a bit concerned but car continued to operate normally. That was 2yrs ago now and no issues since they fixed it.

Thank you! Soonest appointment I could get at a SC was 2.5 weeks away anyway so good to know I don't need to be worried for now. Appreciate the advice!
 
Has anyone else experienced a sudden (after driving for several hundreds of miles and using AP) any driver assistance features become disabled and an info bar comes up on the dashboard stating that camera calibration is required?
I’ve had the MS HW2.5 for almost 2 years and have never experienced this.
 
I had trouble with latch of charge port. I'm there but anybody knows how to take charger out? Hole isn't big enough to pass through...
 

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Super weird thing just started happening and I cannot figure out what would cause it...starting today, whenever I unlock my car, the back right door unlatches and opens. I've never seen that happen before and I have been inspecting the latch trying to see if there's anything wrong with it...nothing appears to be but I'm totally unable to figure out why it's suddenly happening.

Luckily I have a SC appointment Friday for something different but if it's not magically fixed by then I'll have them take a look at it. Still, is that something that anyone knows how to fix?