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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Weird, I have a Note 3 and plug it into the car's USB port (farthest from the driver) every day on my way to and from work. Never switched it away from being an Installer either. Wonder what is different between them? I have a Verizon version and it is running older code (MI9, the original code it shipped with when I received it in November).

I have Verizon as well, but with the newest code. I do have developer mode USB turned on, I may try turning it off and see if it causes it to crash again this morning.

You can probably change the default USB profile of the Note 3 when connected to an usb host. If you set the profile to USB charge only, there is no reason it crash the console ?

I'll have to see if you can pick a default without rooting the phone, not sure if it will let you. I am sure I could with ADB.

Or you could all just switch to iPhones ;) (now ducks and runs away)

Uh oh, this thread is about to get derailed :biggrin:
 
When I first got my car at the end of March, there was some cruise control weirdness when trying to cancel the cruise by stepping on the brake. The car was just as likely to speed up a bit before canceling the cruise as it was to act normally & just start slowing down.

This is puzzled me for a while until I realized that Tesla handles regen differently than the hybrids & LEAF. Those cars use regenerative braking where applying the brakes increases the amount of regen. On the Model S, regen & braking are separate; the brakes actually reduce the regen because the brakes are dissipating some of the energy that would be captured by regen.

So I surmised what was happening was that the cruise sometimes wasn't getting the message that the brake pedal was bring pushed, and when it sensed the car slowing down it applied more power to compensate. Turns out this was correct...Tesla replaced my brake light switch a few weeks back & since then the cruise has behaved perfectly.

Note that it took some convincing at the service center. The first tech that drove the car said it was "normal". Not so much. So I took a ride with one of the service managers & let him drive. He agreed that it was acting dodgy & opened a case with a Tesla, who suggested the brake light switch replacement.
 
Took the delivery on Saturday (05/03)
Car is everything I expected.

Some minor glitches:
1) I hear some rattles from Front Passenger side, Haven't notified service center yet about it.
2) I guess, I didn't inspect the car as much as I should have. After driving car for 20 miles and stopping for groceries on my way to home, I noticed rear right flap was loose. Promptly, I went back to Tesla Service center and the service adviser said that, They don't deliver car like that and I might have hit something while driving. But, I didn't notice driving over anything or didn't feel any bump. So Not sure, what to do to get it fixed.

Car drives like a dream.
 
My car has developed a case of creaking rear suspension. With the windows open, when good torque is applied to the wheels from standstill and is then let off, I can hear very noticeable creaking sounds coming from both sides when the back end sits and then rebounds. I don't think it is air springs as I tried bouncing them and they were quiet. Something loose? Lubrication?
 
The Speedometer Display behind the steering wheel on my P85 has stopped working. It’s completely Black. I tried rebooting with the two knobs on the steering wheel but it did not solve the problem. I think I can drive it, but I won’t have any way to know what gear I’m in or how fast I’m going so I’d like to get it looked at as soon as possible. Has anyone heard of this happening and if so, is there any kind of fix I can do myself?

UPDATE: Just found the "Two Top Button" reboot trick in another post. Seems to have done the trick. I'll leave this post anyway for anyone searching at a later date.
 
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The Speedometer Display behind the steering wheel on my P85 has stopped working. It’s completely Black. I tried rebooting with the two knobs on the steering wheel but it did not solve the problem. I think I can drive it, but I won’t have any way to know what gear I’m in or how fast I’m going so I’d like to get it looked at as soon as possible. Has anyone heard of this happening and if so, is there any kind of fix I can do myself?

UPDATE: Just found the "Two Top Button" reboot trick in another post. Seems to have done the trick. I'll leave this post anyway for anyone searching at a later date.

I lost the ability to program the display to the right side of speedo. Also did the 2 top button reboot instrument panel trick (pushing the 2 scroll wheel only reboots the infotainment center) and it came back. I'm on 5.9 firmware, I don't recall ever having this problem prior to 5.9
 
I lost the ability to program the display to the right side of speedo. Also did the 2 top button reboot instrument panel trick (pushing the 2 scroll wheel only reboots the infotainment center) and it came back. I'm on 5.9 firmware, I don't recall ever having this problem prior to 5.9

About half the reboots I've done over the past year have been on 5.9.
 
This morning I got into the car and as the car woke up from sleep, the main screen didn't come on. My car also didn't perform the scheduled charge I had set at 1am. Luckily I had 180+ rated miles. I'm on 5.9 (*.94). This has never happened before. The day before I got a software update message but I skipped it.

This makes me think I should bypass scheduled charge and just have the car charge immediately when plugged in since I don' have TOU from my electric company.

Has this happened to others?
 
Hasn't happened to me but if you don't have TOU entering why just charge the car immediately upon arriving home for the day?

Can you not get TOU metering where you live?

The two reasons I use scheduled charging is to try and have the charging done closer to the time I'm about to leave the house as well as to try and not put as much strain on the grid during peak hours. TOU is available through BGE where I live but it's an unbelievable rip off so I didn't sign up. Basically the low offpeak rate of TOU is close to my current rate and the onpeak is $0.03 or $0.04 / kWh more than that on top of getting a service charge for using TOU.
 
My car has developed a case of creaking rear suspension. With the windows open, when good torque is applied to the wheels from standstill and is then let off, I can hear very noticeable creaking sounds coming from both sides when the back end sits and then rebounds. I don't think it is air springs as I tried bouncing them and they were quiet. Something loose? Lubrication?


The noise got worse over the course of a week until I was embarrassed to drive the car around town. Every time I accelerated from stopped a very noticeable creeeek would sound. Even though I had a service appointment booked in a week and a half I was to visit an energy conservation day the town was having and guests were coming over to test drive the car. I called Toronto Mississauga service and explained the situation and they said to bring it in right away and they would look at it even though they were pretty booked up. Turns out the creaking noise was coming from the drive axle to wheel hub connection which had a bit of corrosion. They also changed the axle washers I believe. Noise is now gone. Silence is bliss! I ended up going to the Town of Oakville Energy Conservation fair and had a nice talk with the fire department about EV's as they have just added two new Ford Focus EV's to their fleet of 4. They asked if I wanted to park the Model S up on the sidewalk for display and I obliged and answered questions from interested people. My test drive for some friends went well and they may be putting in an order.

Thanks very much to Toronto Mississauga service who went out of there way to resolve the noise. They were amazing!
 
I checked my speedometer the other day and noticed that it is fast by 2mph at 60. ( I am indicating 60 and traveling at 58) Anyone else notice this? It was dead on when the car was new.

I know BMW does this intentionally on all their vehicles supposedly for 'safety' and has been a major peeve with them. I say Build it accurate and right. I hope Tesla is not following in the same track.
 
I checked my speedometer the other day and noticed that it is fast by 2mph at 60. ( I am indicating 60 and traveling at 58) Anyone else notice this? It was dead on when the car was new.

I know BMW does this intentionally on all their vehicles supposedly for 'safety' and has been a major peeve with them. I say Build it accurate and right. I hope Tesla is not following in the same track.
How are you certain you were traveling at 58 when the car said 60?
For what it's worth I've encountered the mobile signs that tell you your speed to get to slow down, and it's always shown exactly what the speedometer said, but that was in the 30-40 mph range.