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Model S Trailer Hitch Installation
- Thread starter antdun
- Start date
The new version is much stronger with much thicker tubing than the previous version. See the pics I took of the new one here:
Model S Trailer Hitch Installation
This kit requires trimming various belly pieces on the car? I'd love to just buy new pieces and trim those and keep the old stuff in a box in case I ever wanted to "revert".
What actually needs to be done to install this?
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
The only cutting is on the black air dam under the bumper. It needs to be trimmed to allow the vertical extension to fit through and access to the chain points.
I trimmed it using a cordless Milwaukee 12v rotary cutting wheel (like a little grinder) which made quick and clean work of the plastic. Cut smaller than you think you should, you can always make it bigger.
I trimmed it using a cordless Milwaukee 12v rotary cutting wheel (like a little grinder) which made quick and clean work of the plastic. Cut smaller than you think you should, you can always make it bigger.
Frankman60
Member
I got the Torklift hitch installed and it works great with my Thule bike rack. But, only a few days after driving around I scraped the receiver tailpiece on the ground going into a parking lot (without the bike rack on). I had planned to leave the receiver tailpiece on all the time but after that I thought it might be better to remove it when not carrying bikes. The problem is that the single bolt that holds the receiver tailpiece in place is extremely hard to unthread. It is a 15/16 socket and I was using a 12 inch socket wrench and I stopped after getting the bolt to turn a few revolutions. I’m wondering if the one scraping incident damaged the bolt so it won’t unthread. When I installed the tailpiece receiver it threaded in fine. I ended up re tightening the bolt because I didn’t want it to break because then I would really be up the creek because the hitch would be unusable.
The design of the removable receiver tailpiece has me concerned because a single bolt that is threaded into the trailer hitch (no nut on the end) supports the tongue weight of whatever is attached to the hitch. So that bolt is very important. The bolt doesn’t look particularly strong nor stainless steel and might rust and possibly freeze where it is threaded into the steel hitch. Also, if the bolt gets weak from rust and breaks the receiver tailpiece would drop to the ground because it is the only bolt holding it up.
Does anyone routinely remove and reinstall the receiver tailpiece and do you ever have any problems with the bolt holding it in place?
The design of the removable receiver tailpiece has me concerned because a single bolt that is threaded into the trailer hitch (no nut on the end) supports the tongue weight of whatever is attached to the hitch. So that bolt is very important. The bolt doesn’t look particularly strong nor stainless steel and might rust and possibly freeze where it is threaded into the steel hitch. Also, if the bolt gets weak from rust and breaks the receiver tailpiece would drop to the ground because it is the only bolt holding it up.
Does anyone routinely remove and reinstall the receiver tailpiece and do you ever have any problems with the bolt holding it in place?
Attachments
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
Ok - a couple things about that. Is the bolt on yours yellow? That's the first indication, although not definitive. If you look at the head of the bolt, it should have either "12.9" or six straight lines in a starburst raised up from the surface. 12.9 would be the hardness for a metric bolt, the six lines indicate Grade 8 for SAE bolts. Functionally in practice they mean the same basic rating: Stupidly strong. This is also either a 1/2" or 5/8" diameter bolt (I can't remember which) and that's WAY stronger than the tongue weight rating of the hitch. The ENTIRE FORCE of towing is through a 5/8" MILD STEEL pin, b/c that's what you use to secure the ball mount to the receiver. Mild steel is a lot softer than Grade 8, so again: WAY stupidly stronger than needed for the job.
On rust... Did you get the stainless steel Torklift? I don't think they are selling a non-stainless for the Tesla, but I'm not sure about that. What I received, the whole thing was stainless. So rust really shouldn't be an issue.
Hitting the ground with the receiver MIGHT have tweaked the fit a little, but you aren't wrong about the design of how that bolt mounts - it's in an annoying place that is hard to get to. You are NOT LIKELY to have damaged the threads or the bolt, but just b/c of manufacturing tolerances being what they are, the bolt probably isn't perfectly cylindrical anyway. So if the holes / receiver shifted a little, you might be feeling it binding a little now and just need a bigger wrench. A 12" socket wrench really isn't enough leverage for a bolt that size under normal circumstances anyway. I put mine on with a 24" extendable, and cranked down to probably about 150 ft-lbs or so on it. But I also wasn't planning to remove it anytime soon, and didn't want it loosening up in use.
You might want to clean up the threads a little / chase them, it could also be binding on some of the powdercoating that probably dislodged when you tightened the bolt originally.
On rust... Did you get the stainless steel Torklift? I don't think they are selling a non-stainless for the Tesla, but I'm not sure about that. What I received, the whole thing was stainless. So rust really shouldn't be an issue.
Hitting the ground with the receiver MIGHT have tweaked the fit a little, but you aren't wrong about the design of how that bolt mounts - it's in an annoying place that is hard to get to. You are NOT LIKELY to have damaged the threads or the bolt, but just b/c of manufacturing tolerances being what they are, the bolt probably isn't perfectly cylindrical anyway. So if the holes / receiver shifted a little, you might be feeling it binding a little now and just need a bigger wrench. A 12" socket wrench really isn't enough leverage for a bolt that size under normal circumstances anyway. I put mine on with a 24" extendable, and cranked down to probably about 150 ft-lbs or so on it. But I also wasn't planning to remove it anytime soon, and didn't want it loosening up in use.
You might want to clean up the threads a little / chase them, it could also be binding on some of the powdercoating that probably dislodged when you tightened the bolt originally.
Frankman60
Member
Thanks for the information. The bolt is not yellow, and I attached a photo of the head of the bolt. I see three lines with the letters JH. I also attached a photo of the bottom of the receiver tailpiece that shows the scrapes from the one incident in the parking lot. BTW, I contacted Torklift support about this and they told me to spray WD40 into the threads to try to loosen it up a bit. But it is pretty hard to get to the threads without cutting out more of the black plastic cover on that side of the hitch. I’m thinking it might have been better if there were no threads and the bolt just had a washer and nut on the end to hold it in place. I’m concerned that the threads could get messed up from removing and reinstalling the receiver tailpiece over and over. I will get a 24 inch socket wrench before trying to remove it again as you suggested. I was easily able to torque it to the 112 lbs using just the 12 inch socket wrench but it is going to take much more than 112 lbs to remove it based on the few turns I accomplished after the scraping incident.
Attachments
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
Hmm - three lines is a grade 5 bolt, that's a generic bolt that you could get at any Home Depot. I'd pull that out and get a replacement (you can match the threads) from Home Depot, they should have grade 8 bolts in yellow steel in the drawers. The lines on the bolt also say that this is an SAE bolt thread, not metric.
It's odd b/c I'm pretty sure I got a grade 8 with mine, but even then a grade 5 is still stronger than mild steel.
It's odd b/c I'm pretty sure I got a grade 8 with mine, but even then a grade 5 is still stronger than mild steel.
henderrj
Active Member
I got a grade eight with mine as well. And, as you said, it's stupidly strong. Way more than needed for the application. After 4 or 5 years it has never rusted or given me any issues, but, I'm afraid the bottom of my receiver is scraped up as well.
Glad this thread popped back up. It inspired me to finally get off my duff and get the S all hitched up.
Long story short - we have a 2020 "Raven" Model X, and I replaced the factory hitch with a Draw-Tite shortly after purchase. Works absolutely great... but, in my infinite wisdom, I put the factory hitch in the garage rather than toss it.
Fast forward to 2023 ... bought a (gently used) '21 Model S Refresh. (October 2021 build.)
Decided to put the Model X factory hitch on it today ... simple as pie. Bumper cover came off smooth as silk, and the Model X hitch fit the bolt pattern absolutely perfectly.
I didn't do anything about lights since I only intend to use the hitch for accessories (bike rack, cargo rack, etc.) -- but if I do decide to tow anything, I'll get a kit and install it. Frankly, I don't see that happening - we already have the X for towing. (And with free supercharging on the X, I'd be foolish to take the S!)
Not sure if the more recent "Refresh" S's have a different rear fascia, but mine even had the removable panel for the hitch receiver. Zero cutting or modifications needed for this one --- truly just plug n play.
Long story short - we have a 2020 "Raven" Model X, and I replaced the factory hitch with a Draw-Tite shortly after purchase. Works absolutely great... but, in my infinite wisdom, I put the factory hitch in the garage rather than toss it.
Fast forward to 2023 ... bought a (gently used) '21 Model S Refresh. (October 2021 build.)
Decided to put the Model X factory hitch on it today ... simple as pie. Bumper cover came off smooth as silk, and the Model X hitch fit the bolt pattern absolutely perfectly.
I didn't do anything about lights since I only intend to use the hitch for accessories (bike rack, cargo rack, etc.) -- but if I do decide to tow anything, I'll get a kit and install it. Frankly, I don't see that happening - we already have the X for towing. (And with free supercharging on the X, I'd be foolish to take the S!)
Not sure if the more recent "Refresh" S's have a different rear fascia, but mine even had the removable panel for the hitch receiver. Zero cutting or modifications needed for this one --- truly just plug n play.
Attachments
Frankman60
Member
Are you saying that the bolt is the wrong thread because it is SAE and not metric? I’m wondering if the hitch came with the wrong bolt. The socket that fits the bolt is 15/16.
I checked the parts list in the installation manual and it says part number 12819 is a 5/8” -11x4” Grade 5 hex bolt.
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
No - I wasn't sure if they came with metric or SAE bolts, which is why I described both. But it SHOULD have come with a Grade 8 (SAE) rather than a grade 5, just b/c there is no appreciable cost difference to going overboard on fastener strength.
I've worked as a theatrical tech director and I'm a certified theatrical rigger. Anything that will be pulling or lifting or carrying should get rated hardware, and there is NEVER a reason to go with less than "stupidly strong" for a given application. The stronger your fastener, the larger your safety factor.
I had the torklift hitch installed on my 2023 MS this weekend too. Anticipating potential tailstrikes, I took off the receiver except for when I need to use it. I also found it concerning that there's just that single bolt, but I expect to have the receive on only during summer months in California. I do appreciate the fact that with the receiver off, the whole thing is hidden behind the bumper and the nifty access cover. I'll be using a Kuat Sherpa with it. Didn't really prefer the hanging racks like the Model X one because of we have carbon bikes that I'd rather not carry by frame.
If you guys get in the habit of raising the car in areas where you potentially think you'll strike and going at an angle thru dips and high objects you should be fine. My car is lowered on links and have the torklift hitch and I don't think I've scraped the actual receiver at all but I have scraped the bike rack a few times. Bike rack sticks out further so it has higher likelihood to scrape before receiver so just gotta be more abundantly cautious to raise with the rack on.
Frankman60
Member
Torklift support told me that the hitch should come with a Grade 5 bolt that is rated for 19,000 lbs which is what I received in the box. He told me that I could replace it with a Grade 8 bolt if I felt more comfortable with that. I found one at Lowes for $4.25. Home Depot didn’t have that size.
For anyone that bought the $125 magnetic cover to plug the hole when the receiver is removed, how do you like it? Does it stay in place with just the magnet and does it cover the entire hole that was cut in the bottom pan to accommodate the hitch? Also, does it rattle at all when driving the car over rough roads?
For anyone that bought the $125 magnetic cover to plug the hole when the receiver is removed, how do you like it? Does it stay in place with just the magnet and does it cover the entire hole that was cut in the bottom pan to accommodate the hitch? Also, does it rattle at all when driving the car over rough roads?
cmarshack
Member
In case anyone is interested in a Torklift and lives in SoCal, I have one that was never installed on my 2020 (I sold that car and got a 2022 and put the OE Model X hitch on that car). Send me a DM.
Frankman60
Member
I am posting this information for future purchasers of the Torklift hitch. The company told me that only the 2 inch receiver version of the product was updated where the receiver tailpiece is now stainless steel. The 1.25 inch version still has the steel receiver tailpiece. Also, the installation is slightly different for the 2 inch and 1.25 inch versions (e.g the 1.25 inch version has 16 nylon washers and the 2 inch version has 28 washers). The current provided bolt that holds the receiver tailpiece on is a Grade 5 SAE bolt. It seems that previously the company was providing a Grade 8 bolt.
Interesting. Looking at the Torklift site, the pre-refresh cars get two hitch options - 1.25" and 2". The new refresh only gets a stainless steel 2" option, which is what I have. It came with a SAE grade 5 bolt for the receiver.
