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MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation
- Thread starter beastmode13
- Start date
CrewKize
Member
Thanks.
I have the Sports with just shy of 300 miles and love them. Have it set on mpp recommended numbers and they really do what everybody says.. Put it this way, if you like driving spirited at all and have some extra cash just order them. they fix what the 3 was missing.
The Wheels are Tsw Watkins 19x9 30et with 245 40 19 s4 tires which have been on for 33 Miles so far.
CrewKize
Member
Yep running 12/10 may go 10/8 just to try it but she runs smooth and loves to turn at 12/10. Just order the sports and enjoy.
Hi Doug,
Great news, the front camber arms are now available!
Sasha plays his cards close to the chest, in a sense that he was reluctant to answer the questions when I asked him. As far as track-to-track setup, it depends on the car. When we have potentiometers installed, we definitely consider that data when tuning the dampers, but it is mostly intuition on his part as a driver. You can drop him in any car and drive for 1 minute and he will tell you how he would change the damper tuning (he shattered my dreams when he rode in my MR2). The 12/10 setting is what felt best to us on the street, but of course, that is just a general starting point for our customers who might not be interested in tinkering. You should try to get away with as little rebound damping as possible without becoming bouncy. If you keep the compression set very firm it will feel quite harsh as well, so there is definitely a balance to it.
Hope I answered some of your questions while withholding our secrets!
Today took my lowered Model 3 with MPP sports coilovers to the track for an one hour session. It handles really good compared to the stock suspension. I feel there are way more potential grip than I have used. Now I need to upgrade the brakes...
I am very happy with my new Comfort Coilovers from Mountain Pass Performance and KW. VERY happy. The car is definitely more comfortable and better handling than stock.
They were installed yesterday at West End Alignment in Gardena, CA, which I also highly recommend. Chris is fanatical, meticulous, prompt, and communicative.
The vibrations coming into the cabin are reduced. “Muted” is the word that immediately came to mind. “Muffled“ may apply. I was aiming at road defects and smiling.
It is quieter. Sound is vibration, so less vibration means less noise in the cabin. I never heard anyone say that. It was a surprise to me.
It clearly corners much better, with less body roll. Clearly. More smiles. The flatter cornering adds to the comfort as well as the excitement. I don’t know why MPP doesn’t claim this. There must be ways to measure it so they can. If there’s no app for that, how about a bowl of water on the floor, and measure the spill?
Of course it looks better. It looks right. My installer agreed with the MPP height recommendation. Mine are set a few mm above the MPP recommendation to allow for slight settling.
The stock setup was annoying. Now my M3P rides like the German cars I am used to. The only downside besides the time and money is that I will probably wear out my tires faster now that it corners better.
They were installed yesterday at West End Alignment in Gardena, CA, which I also highly recommend. Chris is fanatical, meticulous, prompt, and communicative.
The vibrations coming into the cabin are reduced. “Muted” is the word that immediately came to mind. “Muffled“ may apply. I was aiming at road defects and smiling.
It is quieter. Sound is vibration, so less vibration means less noise in the cabin. I never heard anyone say that. It was a surprise to me.
It clearly corners much better, with less body roll. Clearly. More smiles. The flatter cornering adds to the comfort as well as the excitement. I don’t know why MPP doesn’t claim this. There must be ways to measure it so they can. If there’s no app for that, how about a bowl of water on the floor, and measure the spill?
Of course it looks better. It looks right. My installer agreed with the MPP height recommendation. Mine are set a few mm above the MPP recommendation to allow for slight settling.
The stock setup was annoying. Now my M3P rides like the German cars I am used to. The only downside besides the time and money is that I will probably wear out my tires faster now that it corners better.
Yes, definitely. More comfortable and better handling. Also give you perfect height so your Model 3 doesn't have huge wheel gap
Thanks for the kind words, we are very excited to hear you are enjoying your new coilovers!
Perry
Active Member
I had a local shop install my MPP sport coilovers yesterday and when I got home I noticed that the fender gaps on each corner is different. Measuring from the ground to the fender I have these measurements: RL: 27"; RR: 28"; FL: 27.25"; FR: 27.75". The difference between rear left and right is so great that on one side I can easily fit my hand in to adjust the rebound wheel while on the other my hand won't even fit.
I called the shop back and they said that I should not measure like that because the ground may be uneven. They claim they measured the perch distance evenly for all corners so that is the correct adjustment.
So then I parked the car in the same spot but reversed so if there was any grade affecting the gap it would be reversed. The gaps measured the same. Seems like if there was any grade on the ground it made no difference. But why would there be such a gap difference if the perch measurement was done right?
Have others with MPP coil-overs noticed the same thing and should I just live with this? It kind of bothers me every time I look at it. BTW, what should the ground to fender distance be as per MPP spec?
I called the shop back and they said that I should not measure like that because the ground may be uneven. They claim they measured the perch distance evenly for all corners so that is the correct adjustment.
So then I parked the car in the same spot but reversed so if there was any grade affecting the gap it would be reversed. The gaps measured the same. Seems like if there was any grade on the ground it made no difference. But why would there be such a gap difference if the perch measurement was done right?
Have others with MPP coil-overs noticed the same thing and should I just live with this? It kind of bothers me every time I look at it. BTW, what should the ground to fender distance be as per MPP spec?
Those variations are simply way too large and suggests that the install wasn't done properly. Their rebuttal was frankly pretty flaky and very unlikely in terms of variations that large. I'd check and take pictures of each suspension corner/spring perch, and see if they look at all asymmetric side to side. If so, that's more evidence that they didn't do something properly. The other thing to check is if they used the stock OEM isolator at the top of the assembly on both sides or just one side, (it sits just underneath the MPP aluminum column).
Perry
Active Member
Is the OEM isolator the rubber part that is right against the top chassis mount in the fronts? The one with three holes where you need a narrow socket to take the bolts off? I see a rubber part (looks dirty so I think is original) between the chassis mount point and the aluminum looking thing below it (which looks clean). It's there on both sides. These are the only rubber parts they gave me back.
The biggest difference is between the rears (off by 1" left to right). There is no OEM isolator in the rear right?
How close should the gaps be? What is an acceptable tolerance?
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Perry
Active Member
I put my car on the rack and checked the installation. I was able to see that they did install the OEM rubber isolators both sides and the back has them too. To me the install looked fine but I counted the treads remaining from the perch to where they end and the count is different on every corner. Looks like they didn't measure properly like they said. Also in the front they had the damping set to 0 on one side and 5 on the other. I could not find the damping adjuster on the back. Found the rebound on top but could not see anything on the rear bottom. How are those adjusted?
Compression for both F/R are at the bottom end of the damper. For the rear it hard to see as the lower control arm is like a U shape around the bottom of the damper.
I think you found the reason for why the ride height is not equal. If the spring perch threads count differently on different sides you're going to have different ride heights. Pretty simple. As for compression and rebound, rebound is on top of both shock mounts and compression is at the very bottom of the cylinder. On the fronts you have to use a 2 mm hexagonal tool that sits in the shaft should have come with the kit, but you have to take or cut off the rubber top cover to get access to the shock shaft. On the rears its at the top of the column on the outside and it's visible if you Jack the car up.
Perry
Active Member
1. When they say 10 clicks open from full stiff. Were is full stiff?
2. Some of the adjustment dials have numbers on them and a notch to align them too. Are we not supposed to use those and count instead from full stiff?
2. Some of the adjustment dials have numbers on them and a notch to align them too. Are we not supposed to use those and count instead from full stiff?
Ignore the notch for now, unless the installer has calibrated the adjustment knock with the internal click. Turn clockwise until it stops, this is full stiff. Don't over muscle these, the internal screws that the knobs are connected to are small. Then turn counterclockwise and count each click you feel until you reach 10 or whatever number you want to set. Just don't pass 16 clicks counterclockwise(if you accidentally go over by one or two, its okay). Each click requires 60* of rotation, a full 360 rotation has six clicks.
To calibration the adjustment knob to the notch. At full stiff loosen the set screw on the adjustment knob, so the rotation of it is not driving the internals. Adjust the knob for 0 is be aligned with the notch, tighten the set screw.
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