MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

[Perry]

Ignore the notch for now, unless the installer has calibrated the adjustment knock with the internal click. Turn clockwise until it stops, this is full stiff. Don't over muscle these, the internal screws that the knobs are connected to are small. Then turn counterclockwise and count each click you feel until you reach 10 or whatever number you want to set. Just don't pass 16 clicks counterclockwise(if you accidentally go over by one or two, its okay). Each click requires 60* of rotation, a full 360 rotation has six clicks.

On everything except the rear rebound, clockwise direction is obvious. How to I determine the clockwise on rear rebound since you see the dial from the side not top or bottom?

To calibration the adjustment knob to the notch. At full stiff loosen the set screw on the adjustment knob, so the rotation of it is not driving the internals. Adjust the knob for 0 is be aligned with the notch, tighten the set screw.

Don't understand this phrase: "loosen the set screw on the adjustment knob, so the rotation of it is not driving the internals"
I presume this is to late to do if coil-overs are already installed.

 

[Perry]

Installer did not put these back on. Are these necessary to block dirt from going in from the top? What have others done? Cut a hole in these for adjustment? Can these be easily placed post install?

 

[Perry]

The first click out from full closed for rebound and compression adjustment is counted as 0 or 1?

 

[beastmode13]

The first click out from full closed for rebound and compression adjustment is counted as 0 or 1?

I count it as 1.

Clockwise is toward the + sign.

The set screw is on the adjustment knob.

The rubber cap is very easy to put on and take off, no need to punch a hole unless you are going to do the same on the hard plastic frunk linear.

 

[Perry]

I count it as 1.

I guess we don't have a consensus. An earlier post was counting it as 0.

 

[beastmode13]

I guess we don't have a consensus. An earlier post was counting it as 0.

Doesn't really matter that much in the grand scheme of things, if it starts as 0 or 1. Just make sure you are consistent across all fours on how you count them.

 

[MountainPass]

@Perry it looks like these guys gave you good advice, but please also remember to shoot us an email if you have any questions, we are always happy to help.

You can pop those black dust caps back on with the frunk removed. We left ours out so we can adjust the dampers quickly. We count the end of the adjustment as 0, but he is correct that as long as they are adjusted the same it doesn't make much difference. You will likely end up finding a preference for the dampers that aren't our exact initial settings. You might like the ride firmer or softer than us.

 

[Perry]

@Perry it looks like these guys gave you good advice, but please also remember to shoot us an email if you have any questions, we are always happy to help.

You can pop those black dust caps back on with the frunk removed. We left ours out so we can adjust the dampers quickly. We count the end of the adjustment as 0, but he is correct that as long as they are adjusted the same it doesn't make much difference. You will likely end up finding a preference for the dampers that aren't our exact initial settings. You might like the ride firmer or softer than us.

So what driving characteristics should I be looking for when adjusting the compression vs the rebound?

 

[Perry]

What's the disadvantage of making the suspension height the same on all 4 corners? MPP recommends 5mm higher on the back.

 

[MountainPass]

What's the disadvantage of making the suspension height the same on all 4 corners? MPP recommends 5mm higher on the back.

You should aim for the same battery height measurements front to rear so the car looks nice and level. Some people prefer a forward rake, it's really up to you. If you are new to adjusting dampers, it would be good to start with our initial settings and adjust them evenly (rebound and compression at the same time) in the direction you want to go, whether that be firm or soft.

 

[Perry]

Trying to adjust the height post install. I am having a hard time turning the threaded thrust ring with the provided wrench. Is there a locking mechanism that locks that ring from turning? What stops it from turning on its own just from normal use over time? On my previous car I had a set of Tein coil-overs and those had two threaded thrust rings. You would set the top one at desired height and the other would be used to lock it in place. MPP does not have two so wondering if there is a different locking mechanism.

 

[Perry]

You should aim for the same battery height measurements front to rear so the car looks nice and level. Some people prefer a forward rake, it's really up to you. If you are new to adjusting dampers, it would be good to start with our initial settings and adjust them evenly (rebound and compression at the same time) in the direction you want to go, whether that be firm or soft.

So from 10/12 (recommended) I would go maybe 8/10 and so on keeping a difference of two between compression and rebound?

 

[dfwatt]

So from 10/12 (recommended) I would go maybe 8/10 and so on keeping a difference of two between compression and rebound?

Yes 12/10 compression / rebound is a good starting point. That's only a little bit firmer than stock. And you can tighten up from there to taste, and your tolerance for increasing stiffness.

 

[mcbarnet007]

I like 14C/12R in the front and 12C/10R in the rear. It softens a lot of the road joints on the freeway.

 

[dfwatt]

I like 14C/12R in the front and 12C/10R in the rear. It softens a lot of the road joints on the freeway.

I like my kidney belt settings - 10 / 8 all around!

 

[beastmode13]

Trying to adjust the height post install. I am having a hard time turning the threaded thrust ring with the provided wrench. Is there a locking mechanism that locks that ring from turning? What stops it from turning on its own just from normal use over time? On my previous car I had a set of Tein coil-overs and those had two threaded thrust rings. You would set the top one at desired height and the other would be used to lock it in place. MPP does not have two so wondering if there is a different locking mechanism.

I had Tein with SS pillow car on my previous car, they are excellent for track.
All that tension that makes it difficult for you to adjust the height is keeping it from moving once it is adjusted. There is no locking mechanism for the rear. There is a tiny setscrew in the front, but it is not necessary.

 

[P3James]

You should aim for the same battery height measurements front to rear so the car looks nice and level.

Any insight on measuring battery height on the ground? I'm guessing height should be measured at the axles. I would imagine rulers, calipers, and tape measure would not work very well with out the car being on an alignment lift.

Is there a locking mechanism that locks that ring from turning? What stops it from turning on its own just from normal use over time?

There is a a set screw on the front perch, use a 2mm hex and do not overtighten. The rear just uses spring tension, the rear is so tight under tension you may need to drop the lower arm to adjust height. Typical on KW setup, the KW on my M4 was the same.

 

[MountainPass]

Any insight on measuring battery height on the ground? I'm guessing height should be measured at the axles. I would imagine rulers, calipers, and tape measure would not work very well with out the car being on an alignment lift.



There is a a set screw on the front perch, use a 2mm hex and do not overtighten. The rear just uses spring tension, the rear is so tight under tension you may need to drop the lower arm to adjust height. Typical on KW setup, the KW on my M4 was the same.

We use a tape measure lying on it's back, then extend the tape up to the battery. We then remove and measure the entire tape/tape measure body using a ruler. Rule #1 when measuring ride height is the ground has to be perfectly level. Typically only 4-post alignment racks have been leveled exactly. Our concrete floor at the shop was perfectly leveled during construction so we can count on it! If you don't know for a fact that you are on a perfectly level surface you aren't going to do yourself any favours trying to work with those measurements.

 

[P3James]

We use a tape measure lying on it's back, then extend the tape up to the battery. We then remove and measure the entire tape/tape measure body using a ruler. Rule #1 when measuring ride height is the ground has to be perfectly level. Typically only 4-post alignment racks have been leveled exactly. Our concrete floor at the shop was perfectly leveled during construction so we can count on it! If you don't know for a fact that you are on a perfectly level surface you aren't going to do yourself any favours trying to work with those measurements.

Neat idea with the tape measure. I'll give it ago.

I have my floor leveled before for DIY alignment before (square drawn in floor at tire locations and laser level and 4 rulers, then shimmed each square for variance in height) Probably not perfect but worked well for me in the past.

*edit* I just realized my getto level wont work since the floor in between isnt leveled to the wheels

 

[Perry]

There is a a set screw on the front perch, use a 2mm hex and do not overtighten.

I did not notice the set screw. I tried to turn the perch adjustment not knowing there was a set screw and moved it about a quarter turn. It was very hard to do. Knowing now that there is a set screw there and not loosening it, I probably did damage to the treads if this screw is tightened against the threads?

Can someone post a picture of where and how this set screw looks? I still can't find it.