My car doesn't work anymore, could it be the battery?

[andersonbsc]

My car was working normally, but a few days ago I had the eMMC recall and after that several problems started to happen. But the last problem is being bigger, I'll attach an image here for you to see, according to some research I've done it could be the 12v battery. Currently he turns on her after doing a hard reset and after a few minutes the screen goes black and turns off, returning to work temporarily only after another hard reset.
My car has only 35k miles on it, and I just bought it a few days ago.
I don't know what to do

Car: 2014 Tesla Model S P85D

 

[glide]

I don't know what to do

Schedule a service appointment.

 

[dwbv]

That's a lot of errors. Is the car drivable? I'm guessing it is in limp mode? Your best bet is to schedule an appointment to a service center and get the car onto your wifi so they can remotely diagnose it.

I feel your pain. If you look up my name, you will find my experience wherein my issue popped up within 9 miles of ownership. For me, it was the hv battery heater.

Mine is a 2015 P85D with 16k on the clock. I'm told we have the expensive, finicky, sports car version therefore we most likely will have to own up to the expensive, finicky problems that come with it.

 

[beatle]

Could be 12v battery, DC/DC converter, and/or something else. Unfortunately the tools needed to troubleshoot a lot of these errors aren't made available to the casual consumer.

 

[andersonbsc]

This is really bad, I'm going to buy the 12v battery today and see if it works again, the car is not driving anymore.

 

[mongo]

Hey, @wk057, BMS errors u008, f107, w107?

 

[wk057]

BMS_u008 is the generic "something is wrong and we're doing something about it" customer facing message. Usually either reduced power or complete loss of driving.

f107/w107 usually means there's an issue that has affected the ability of the BMS to properly measure values on one of more modules. Most of the time this is corrosion from moisture ingress, and is not repairable. Kind of surprising on a P85D, but the very early ones still have v1.5 battery packs and were potentially susceptible to that issue.

OP is in FL. Give us a shout so we can get you in for actual diagnostics and then quote you a repair/replacement depending on what we find.

 

[andersonbsc]

BMS_u008 is the generic "something is wrong and we're doing something about it" customer facing message. Usually either reduced power or complete loss of driving.

f107/w107 usually means there's an issue that has affected the ability of the BMS to properly measure values on one of more modules. Most of the time this is corrosion from moisture ingress, and is not repairable. Kind of surprising on a P85D, but the very early ones still have v1.5 battery packs and were potentially susceptible to that issue.

OP is in FL. Give us a shout so we can get you in for actual diagnostics and then quote you a repair/replacement depending on what we find.

What is OP? I Need to find a way to fix the car, feeling so bad, i just bought the car, paid 28K on

 

[NV Ray]

What is OP? I Need to find a way to fix the car, feeling so bad, i just bought the car, paid 28K on

OP=original post(er)

 

[andersonbsc]

OP=original post(er)

I got! Thanks

 

[jjrandorin]

What is OP? I Need to find a way to fix the car, feeling so bad, i just bought the car, paid 28K on

Perhaps you should see if you can unwind the deal from wherever you bought it (very very unlikely). Otherwise, you probably need to be prepared for potentially a "lot more" money spent on this.

 

[maximizese]

I'd start trying to get a clear history of the vehicle (flood damage or any accidents), then I would definitely try Tesla Service to see if perhaps the eMMC work may have not gone properly. It's possible there might be some bad connections made at any given harness. Pay the diagnostic fee to see what else might be going on with the car (pull the speed sensor from the rear drive unit to check for any coolant egress, inspect the battery for any water intrusion or rust, make sure the HVAC drain hose is proper, etc. Then if want to try and throw parts at it, I'd start with the 12V battery to see if that fixes anything.

It sounds like someone might have unloaded their problems onto you because that is a big list of issues. When did you buy the car and where did you buy it (from Tesla, private sale, other dealer, etc)?

 

[dwbv]

What is OP? I Need to find a way to fix the car, feeling so bad, i just bought the car, paid 28K on

You sure there wasn't some disclosure about your car you may have missed prior to buying? $28k for a '14 P85D w/ 35k on the clock sounds really cheap... almost like they wanted to get rid of the car before it blew up.

Or am I overpriced-bias here?

 

[andersonbsc]

I'd start trying to get a clear history of the vehicle (flood damage or any accidents), then I would definitely try Tesla Service to see if perhaps the eMMC work may have not gone properly. It's possible there might be some bad connections made at any given harness. Pay the diagnostic fee to see what else might be going on with the car (pull the speed sensor from the rear drive unit to check for any coolant egress, inspect the battery for any water intrusion or rust, make sure the HVAC drain hose is proper, etc. Then if want to try and throw parts at it, I'd start with the 12V battery to see if that fixes anything.

It sounds like someone might have unloaded their problems onto you because that is a big list of issues. When did you buy the car and where did you buy it (from Tesla, private sale, other dealer, etc)?

I bought it from a dealership near miami but the dealership said they couldn't help me with anything, I bought the car like this and there's nothing he can do

 

[dwbv]

I bought it from a dealership near miami but the dealership said they couldn't help me with anything, I bought the car like this and there's nothing he can do

This is standard practice. My guess is that the OP signed a form that states the "vehicle is being purchased as-is" meaning "it was fully functional when it left our lot so anything after that is no longer the dealership's concern".

 

[andersonbsc]

You sure there wasn't some disclosure about your car you may have missed prior to buying? $28k for a '14 P85D w/ 35k on the clock sounds really cheap... almost like they wanted to get rid of the car before it blew up.

Or am I overpriced-bias here?

The car had to fix the left side because it's crashed, so I imagined it wouldn't have other problems. I expected to spend only about 5k to fix the side

 

[andersonbsc]

BMS_u008 is the generic "something is wrong and we're doing something about it" customer facing message. Usually either reduced power or complete loss of driving.

f107/w107 usually means there's an issue that has affected the ability of the BMS to properly measure values on one of more modules. Most of the time this is corrosion from moisture ingress, and is not repairable. Kind of surprising on a P85D, but the very early ones still have v1.5 battery packs and were potentially susceptible to that issue.

OP is in FL. Give us a shout so we can get you in for actual diagnostics and then quote you a repair/replacement depending on what we find.

Maybe you can fix it?

 

[brainhouston]

You sure there wasn't some disclosure about your car you may have missed prior to buying? $28k for a '14 P85D w/ 35k on the clock sounds really cheap... almost like they wanted to get rid of the car before it blew up.

Or am I overpriced-bias here?

The car had to fix the left side because it's crashed, so I imagined it wouldn't have other problems. I expected to spend only about 5k to fix the side

To me, anyone besides auction, selling a crashed car is a red flag...

 

[EVRider-FL]

This is really bad, I'm going to buy the 12v battery today and see if it works again, the car is not driving anymore.

Did you do this yet and did it fix the issues? I wouldn’t worry about all the other issues raised in this thread until you eliminate the 12V battery as a cause. They typically only last 3-4 years, regardless of mileage.

 

[ewoodrick]

My car was working normally, but a few days ago I had the eMMC recall and after that several problems started to happen. But the last problem is being bigger, I'll attach an image here for you to see, according to some research I've done it could be the 12v battery. Currently he turns on her after doing a hard reset and after a few minutes the screen goes black and turns off, returning to work temporarily only after another hard reset.
My car has only 35k miles on it, and I just bought it a few days ago.
I don't know what to do

Car: 2014 Tesla Model S P85D

If the screen is turning off, that indeed points to the 12V battery. If the 12V battery isn't working, the remainder of the car isn't going to work.

The 12V battery is a maintenance item that needs replacing about every 3 years, generally around 36,000 miles.