Yes, because you may not install a 50A receptacle on a 100A breaker. However, you *can* run a 100A-rated conductor (#2 or #3 in conduit - #2 NM/Romex doesn't count) with a 50A breaker and a NEMA 14-50, then swap out the breaker in the future should you change it.
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New Wall Connector :)
- Thread starter pluginx007
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Yes, because you may not install a 50A receptacle on a 100A breaker. However, you *can* run a 100A-rated conductor (#2 or #3 in conduit - #2 NM/Romex doesn't count) with a 50A breaker and a NEMA 14-50, then swap out the breaker in the future should you change it.
I have reached out to my contacts to confirm if there is a limitation. For now I believe this is a typo and that you could set the master unit up to a 100A circuit.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Thanks. This looked serious when I actually took the time to read it during the unboxing. Hope it is a typo.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
For those that are installing the new Wall Connector, you might need to add a new tool to your arsenal. The device is put together with Secure (tamper proof) Torx T20 screws, not just regular T20 screws. The Secure T20 has a stud in the center that keeps the average T20 driver from working.
So you want a cord permanently attached to the car? I can think of some problems with that:
- What cord length? You'd want to make it fairly long to accommodate more charging stations.
- How do you store the cord? A cable for 80A charging takes up a lot of space, especially if you include some sort of reel in the car to roll up the cord.
- 240V outlets are more dangerous than 240V EVSEs, because there's no live outlet for someone that doesn't know better to stick something in. A lot of property owners might not want the liability. 120V outlets are safer than 240V outlets.
- You'd need a second cord for supercharging, because the cord needs to be larger (to accommodate the current) and shorter (so it doesn't take up a huge amount of space in your car). Or just have a charge port for supercharging.
A lot of people carry their UMC's with them already. After all it is the MOBILE connector. Again since extensions aren't allowed, people are carrying a fixed length cable in the car already. The HPWC is also fixed length. Every EVSE I've seen also has a short cable on it.
"Someone might stick something in an outlet" you might as well outlaw soup because you can drown in soup.
You would only need a separate port for supercharger. No big deal.
Between the UMC and a HPWC, you've already spend $1100 on charging related apparatus for the car, and all you wanted to do was plug in. Just 2 years ago, that number was what, $1850? While not too much compared to a $140k car, it's a lot for a $35k car. Not to mention these devices are already cheaper than anyone else's EVSE's, probably close to cost.
The UMC cable is much thinner than an HPWC cable. Presumably you'd want the thicker cable so you can charge faster. You'd also want a reel built into the car, so the cord will retract into the car. So it's going to take up a lot more space.
I didn't say outlaw it. It's rather easy to kill yourself with a 240V outlet, but very very difficult to kill yourself with soup. Oh, wait, am I supposed to be taking any of your points seriously?
It's more space, so that might be a pretty big deal.
The UMC (which, again, is an EVSE) comes with the car. You don't have to buy the HPWC. Just use the UMC to plug in to standard outlets, if that's what you want. And you're not likely buying any public EVSEs.
EVSEs are pretty simple devices with some nice safety features. Not sure what the problem is with them.
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FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
I think it's a very big deal that Tesla has one port for whatever charging is done. It's a great design feature and Tesla is the only EV that has it.
Actually... check out what they use in Europe for L2 stations: Tesla - Charging Plug and Cable Suitable For The Tesla Electric
Yeah, the cord is not permanently attached to the EVSE nor to the car. Nor does it do away with the EVSE. I don't think that's what AWDtsla is suggesting.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
That's a big relief. Sorry to be Debbie Downer but it did say what it said and it was 'huge'.
I picked up a set of secure torx bits at Sears once, so they shouldn't be too hard to find.
More pics. Excuse the English caliper, no probes will be sent to Mars with it.
The top-entry bracket would be extremely difficult to fit 1 AWG, however in the main bracket, we have a square hole 0.33" per side. This would mean you _may_ be able to squeeze a 2/0 stranded wire in there if you square it up first. 1 AWG shouldn't be any problem.
The wire from the top entry bracket is 4 AWG for some strange reason. Going to guess this will be one of the hottest parts of the unit, if used.
The cable gauge appears like it may have been increased, judging by the OD it looks like it may be 5 AWG? I don't have the old HPWC to compare to, but the cable certainly feels bigger/heavier/stiffer.
I don't see any fuses in the unit. They may be hiding underneath, but I doubt they'd have such a design regression. They were probably removed.
The top-entry bracket would be extremely difficult to fit 1 AWG, however in the main bracket, we have a square hole 0.33" per side. This would mean you _may_ be able to squeeze a 2/0 stranded wire in there if you square it up first. 1 AWG shouldn't be any problem.
The wire from the top entry bracket is 4 AWG for some strange reason. Going to guess this will be one of the hottest parts of the unit, if used.
The cable gauge appears like it may have been increased, judging by the OD it looks like it may be 5 AWG? I don't have the old HPWC to compare to, but the cable certainly feels bigger/heavier/stiffer.
I don't see any fuses in the unit. They may be hiding underneath, but I doubt they'd have such a design regression. They were probably removed.
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I received my new gen wall connector yesterday and it does charge my Leaf at 208V and 240V. From all I've read it appeared that it would only support Tesla's proprietary digital pilot method. Looks like that's what it tries to do. Then after a few seconds it switches to the J1772 PWM pilot signal and works on the Leaf. I'm a bit concerned about running it at 277V. I'm might just hold my breath and give it a try next week. Hopefully, it won't do any damage to the car.
So do you have an adapter to be able to plug in to your Leaf or did you replace the cable with a J1772 cable?
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
What the heck, it does. I guess I failed the bag test. Oh well. I needed an excuse to buy more tools.
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