OEM TESLA roof racks Crack Glass

[RIP->OPEC]

My roof rack was meticulously installed by me using a Matco torque wrench. I had NO issues at all for nearly two years. Then suddenly it cracked out of nowhere. A quick inspection uncovered a few clues as to why this may have suddenly failed. Since the mounts are solid rubber, the corner mount that cracked the roof had loosened up as the rubber mount does age. All the other mounts were loose as well but not as much.

Funny thing was that I had periodically checked the torque from time to time over those two years but found the reading were within specs. I’m thinking the rubber mounts have around a two year lifespan and should be replaced every 24 months or so to assure firm flexibility, NOT OVER FLEXIBILITY, or over compression.

When you drive, the car’s chassis does have torsional twisting flex. If the two sides of the car are bridged by the roof rack, a failing corner mount could flex more than the others thus pinching the glass and cracking it. Bottom line, I will be replacing all four rubber mounts every 2 years or so with new ones, thats after I replace the glass... oooch!

 

[JournalYoung]

My roof rack was meticulously installed by me using a Matco torque wrench. I had NO issues at all for nearly two years. Then suddenly it cracked out of nowhere. A quick inspection uncovered a few clues as to why this may have suddenly failed. Since the mounts are solid rubber, the corner mount that cracked the roof had loosened up as the rubber mount does age. All the other mounts were loose as well but not as much.

Funny thing was that I had periodically checked the torque from time to time over those two years but found the reading were within specs. I’m thinking the rubber mounts have around a two year lifespan and should be replaced every 24 months or so to assure firm flexibility, NOT OVER FLEXIBILITY, or over compression.

When you drive, the car’s chassis does have torsional twisting flex. If the two sides of the car are bridged by the roof rack, a failing corner mount could flex more than the others thus pinching the glass and cracking it. Bottom line, I will be replacing all four rubber mounts every 2 years or so with new ones, thats after I replace the glass... oooch!

Wow, I just read this entire thread and while reading it was like oh damn, I'm going to crack my glass installing this thing, but wait nice pics on how to install correctly... yeah that's all it takes and now I know better... SWEET! Then I got to your post... this sounds like more trouble and huge downside if I don't keep on top of maintenance of it... oh well, I love my M3, but for rack mounting SUP boards: where's that cyberTruck?!

 

[Nuclear Fusion]

My roof rack was meticulously installed by me using a Matco torque wrench. I had NO issues at all for nearly two years. Then suddenly it cracked out of nowhere. A quick inspection uncovered a few clues as to why this may have suddenly failed. Since the mounts are solid rubber, the corner mount that cracked the roof had loosened up as the rubber mount does age. All the other mounts were loose as well but not as much.

Funny thing was that I had periodically checked the torque from time to time over those two years but found the reading were within specs. I’m thinking the rubber mounts have around a two year lifespan and should be replaced every 24 months or so to assure firm flexibility, NOT OVER FLEXIBILITY, or over compression.

When you drive, the car’s chassis does have torsional twisting flex. If the two sides of the car are bridged by the roof rack, a failing corner mount could flex more than the others thus pinching the glass and cracking it. Bottom line, I will be replacing all four rubber mounts every 2 years or so with new ones, thats after I replace the glass... oooch!

Sorry to hear that. I wonder how best to store the rubbers so they last longer

 

[moojimmy]

I just installed my Tesla roof rack this morning, needless to say it was quite nerve racking. I bought mine used so it did not come with the clear film template. However, following the arrow and looking underneath the rubber I was able to see the slot for the J-Hook insertion. It was not a "tight" fit, but a loose fit in the slot. The front was almost to the corner of the roof glass, the rear is a about 1-2 inch from the back corner of the glass.

It was even more nerve racking when I begin to tighten down the bolt to the J-Hook as it started to make creaking/cracking sound. I took 1 off as soon as I heard the sound but did not see my glass crack. I presume it was the "frame" and J-hook tighten in place. The front I tightened to about 5.5 nm and the rear I was not able to get the torque wrench to click once because the J-Hook bolt was at the top of the bolt. So I hand tight to the 3 & 9 o'olock direction. Otherwise everything else looks relatively secure.

Everyone experienced the same as I have?

Anyone here have long term use on the Tesla rack? How long and how is it holding up? Any problem aside from the potential rubber thinning.

 

[JPELKA]

Solution: www.seasucker.com

 

[N54TT]

I just installed my Tesla roof rack this morning, needless to say it was quite nerve racking. I bought mine used so it did not come with the clear film template. However, following the arrow and looking underneath the rubber I was able to see the slot for the J-Hook insertion. It was not a "tight" fit, but a loose fit in the slot. The front was almost to the corner of the roof glass, the rear is a about 1-2 inch from the back corner of the glass.

It was even more nerve racking when I begin to tighten down the bolt to the J-Hook as it started to make creaking/cracking sound. I took 1 off as soon as I heard the sound but did not see my glass crack. I presume it was the "frame" and J-hook tighten in place. The front I tightened to about 5.5 nm and the rear I was not able to get the torque wrench to click once because the J-Hook bolt was at the top of the bolt. So I hand tight to the 3 & 9 o'olock direction. Otherwise everything else looks relatively secure.

Everyone experienced the same as I have?

Anyone here have long term use on the Tesla rack? How long and how is it holding up? Any problem aside from the potential rubber thinning.

5.5nm is too tight. Tesla has updated the recommend torque to 2.5-3.5nm

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/model-3-roof-rack-owners-manual-en-us.pdf

 

[bedoig]

I wonder how best to store the rubbers so they last longer

I hear that your wallet is NOT a good option.

 

[nvx1977]

My roof rack was meticulously installed by me using a Matco torque wrench. I had NO issues at all for nearly two years.

What torque setting did you use? The old recommendation appears to be way too tight. Also, how can it be nearly 2 yrs of ownership? The rack was released around Dec 2018, so if you were in this early batch, you're about 1.5 yrs in. Also, the J-bolts from this Dec batch were very short. People complained that not enough stuck out for the nut to get a good bite. To catch enough threading, you probably needed more torque than is normally necessary to keep things secure. That feels more like the issue here.

Then suddenly it cracked out of nowhere. A quick inspection uncovered a few clues as to why this may have suddenly failed. Since the mounts are solid rubber, the corner mount that cracked the roof had loosened up as the rubber mount does age. All the other mounts were loose as well but not as much.

What are you referring to as the "corner mount"? Just one of the 4 mounts? How did you determine the mounts were loose? They wiggled if you shook the bars? If that's the case, did tightening down on the nut help?

Funny thing was that I had periodically checked the torque from time to time over those two years but found the reading were within specs.

What specs are you using? The original 9Nm?

I’m thinking the rubber mounts have around a two year lifespan and should be replaced every 24 months or so to assure firm flexibility, NOT OVER FLEXIBILITY, or over compression.

When you drive, the car’s chassis does have torsional twisting flex. If the two sides of the car are bridged by the roof rack, a failing corner mount could flex more than the others thus pinching the glass and cracking it. Bottom line, I will be replacing all four rubber mounts every 2 years or so with new ones, thats after I replace the glass... oooch!

Having a bunch of follow up questions about what you described, I have a hard time imagining that the fault here is due to degraded rubber mounts.

FWIW, I got my rack right after the breaking J-bolt batch (Feb 2019). I ended up hand tightening all the nuts and stopped when I heard creaking noises and the hole in the nut lined up with the locking pin. I've removed the rack once for a 2600mi road trip to maximize efficiency and then put them back on after. No signs of loose or degraded rubber.

My suggestion to people is to err on the side of a looser nut. If you lock the rack with the key, it's impossible for the nut to come loose, as it's prevented from turning by the locking pin. Firmly shake your bars, and if there's no wiggle, you're fine.

 

[moojimmy]

5.5nm is too tight. Tesla has updated the recommend torque to 2.5-3.5nm

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/model-3-roof-rack-owners-manual-en-us.pdf

Wow.. thanks Tesla.

I just re-adjusted mine to 2-2.5nm just incase. It seems kinda loose.

 

[PianoAl]

I take my racks on and off between uses because I am a windsurfer and it may be days or weeks between sailing sessions and I don't want the unnecessary wind drag.

Someone here tested and found the resistance of the bare racks reduced range by only 2%. I plan to leave the rack on.

 

[North75]

Someone here tested and found the resistance of the bare racks reduced range by only 2%. I plan to leave the rack on.

I agree. Additional drag seems surprisingly minimal. I take any attachments (i.e. bike rack) off of the bars after each trip, but leave the bars on for the whole season. I take them off in winter when I don't use them for anything.

 

[KootsChewt]

Someone here tested and found the resistance of the bare racks reduced range by only 2%. I plan to leave the rack on.

I agree. Additional drag seems surprisingly minimal. I take any attachments (i.e. bike rack) off of the bars after each trip, but leave the bars on for the whole season. I take them off in winter when I don't use them for anything.

Yeah that was me who did the original testing and posted it. I stand-by my original values. I think you would need a wind tunnel to really detect the difference in the real-world. I've left my bars on ever since installing them in Dec 2018, except to do the initial testing.

As mentioned by @novox77 a few posts earlier, I was in the first batch where they recommended pretty high torque and had the short bolts. I only tightened to 4 Nm and even thought that was a bit tight. My rack seems fine, but I am going to check it considering what @RIP->OPEC mentioned about his rack/glass!!

I was just over on the Model Y roof-rack thread though... gotta say I'm a bit jealous of the fact that there mount is further back and a bit wider apart. Oh well - bit expensive to trade-up just for a slightly better mounting position!

 

[TSLA Pilot]

Insurance claim might be better, if Tesla won't replace it for you for being out of specifications . . . .

However, if the clearance is actually at issue, then find a SC that will replace it at Tesla's expense under warranty.

 

[PianoAl]

Can someone create/post a cross-sectional diagram showing how the mount works? I'd like to see what the J pad is being tightened against.

 

[PianoAl]

Can someone create/post a cross-sectional diagram showing how the mount works? I'd like to see what the J pad is being tightened against.

Yeah that was me who did the original testing and posted it. I stand-by my original values. I think you would need a wind tunnel to really detect the difference in the real-world.

Thanks for the measurements!

Even without a wind tunnel, your test shows the resistance is minimal.

 

[MP3Mike]

Can someone create/post a cross-sectional diagram showing how the mount works? I'd like to see what the J pad is being tightened against.

Here is what the pocket that the J hook goes into looks like on a Model Y:

 

[N54TT]

Can someone create/post a cross-sectional diagram showing how the mount works? I'd like to see what the J pad is being tightened against.

my post from page 5!
OEM TESLA roof racks Crack Glass

 

[ATT89]

Here is what the pocket that the J hook goes into looks like on a Model Y:

View attachment 566360

So its not pressure fitted against the glass? hmmmmm

interesting.

 

[N54TT]

So its not pressure fitted against the glass? hmmmmm

interesting.

absolutely not. If you look at the pics I posted, the J hook gets slotted under that welded bracket. Pressure points should be at the welded bracket/j hook and metal frame of the roof where the protective stickers are placed. Miss aligning the j hook or over-tightening will crack the glass.

BTW as I posted above....Tesla has updated the recommend torque to 2.5-3.5nm.
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/model-3-roof-rack-owners-manual-en-us.pdf

I believe previous spec was 5-6nm.

 

[silenteski]

My torque wrench’s indicator click is inaudible at 2-3nm