P3D+ misc info and pics- wheel weight, calipers, suspension

[Daniel in SD]

It's like that in Ontario too. However one time I put my car away wet and didn't drive it for a month in winter. My brakes had an insane pulsation after that wouldn't go away. You could do the math on how many rotor replacements you have to do to save money by buying CC rotors.

Take the rotors inside if you're going to park for more than 24 hours?
I knew it was bad but I didn't realize it was that bad over there!
I took apart the 2003 Mazda Miata in my avatar to build an Exocet (kit car) and it had basically zero rust. I've seen pictures of east coast Miatas that horrified me. I sure hope that Tesla does better at corrosion resistance than Mazda...

 

[AWDtsla]

Don't carbon rotors still have a steel center hat? If you're getting enough rust to destroy conventional rotors I'd worry about the disc detaching from the hat as it rusts away.
This sounds crazy to us from California. You get enough rust on your rotor surface that it impacts brake performance? Here you can get surface rust on your rotor but it just scrapes off the first time you hit the brakes.
I always replace the rotors whenever I change the brake pads because they only cost $30-$50 a piece. Also the last time I had rotors turned they got a "warped" feeling a couple thousand miles afterward.

There was one time I took my winter beater on a ski trip through a storm. When I got back home, I just parked it and left it in the garage. Was busy, didn't drive it for 2-3 weeks. When I got back into it, the rust was so bad on the rotors that they were pretty much destroyed. I took it out for multiple drives for the ONLY purpose of trying to clear off the brakes. 5 miles. 10 miles. 50 miles. Finally, gave up. Rotors have gone to total *sugar*. There was no saving them, had already been turned 2 years ago.

 

[Feathermerchan]

I've seen garages with sloped floors and drains with a hose bib in the corner so you can wash your car in the garage.

Glad I live in Texas. You can keep your 5 seasons. One of them is rust.

 

[SD_Engnr]

And I'm over here in SoCal bummed at the nightly dew that accumulates on the car...

 

[Jedi2155]

And I'm over here in SoCal bummed at the nightly dew that accumulates on the car...

I think of that nightly dew as a free wash as I wipe it off from my ceramic coat....almost 3 months / 4500 miles into my car and I haven't taken it in for a car wash including 2 weeks outdoor at a service center and all I've ever had to do is wipe it off with a microfiber with a little water.

 

[kbecks13]

That is likely true in SoCal, that isn't the case in places like upper NY where they use more road salt than you can shake a stick at and cars often get scrapped after 5-10 years because they have rusted to pieces.

"SoCal", yeah of course.

Spent over 20 years in Maryland with icy winter and road salt, so i'm not just some sun-tanned hippie

I still can't recall ever needing new rotors just from corrosion, normally they'd be worn down or have excessive run-out. I still do not understand what part of the rotor is corroding, if it's the pad surface then braking should remove it. If it's another surface, you could apply a dry-film corrosion inhibitor.

 

[Daniel in SD]

After 15 years of the harsh SoCal climate:

 

[MountainPass]

After 15 years of the harsh SoCal climate:
View attachment 362345

Your photo is of a literal unicorn. Mazdas rot out at lightning speed here. The only safe Miata is a summer-driven Miata.

 

[Orwell]

As a general rule, before you buy something safety related like brakes, just type <insert brand here>+fail in Google and do some reading!

Yes, but you guys haven't been around long enough for that kind of information to be available if we Google "MountainPass fail"

And if you Google "STOPTECH fail", you will find some interesting posts as well.

 

[boilermaker67]

New dude here resurrecting this thread!

I swear I've read this one twice and a few others.

Has anyone determined if there are any other track pad options for the P3D+ or any other pads we can modify to fit front and rear?

 

[SD_Engnr]

New dude here resurrecting this thread!

I swear I've read this one twice and a few others.

Has anyone determined if there are any other track pad options for the P3D+ or any other pads we can modify to fit front and rear?

I think MPP might be working on a set, but I know Unplugged Performance has a set - $545 for the front set. Contact Ben at UP.

 

[kbecks13]

Has anyone determined if there are any other track pad options for the P3D+ or any other pads we can modify to fit front and rear?

Only ones i've heard about are the ones I have installed in the front from Unplugged Performance and am getting rear ones as soon as they are ready (fitment is tricky). They work GREAT, check out my thread here: New Brake Pads on P3D - Much Firmer!

 

[kbecks13]

I know Unplugged Performance has a set - $545 for the front set.

It's $545 for front and rear!

 

[boilermaker67]

It's $545 for front and rear!

thanks! your thread you linked too - the pics dont work. Do you have pictures of the pads?

 

[SD_Engnr]

It's $545 for front and rear!

Ah, well that make more sense! I was thinking it was front only from the FB post.

 

[kbecks13]

thanks! your thread you linked too - the pics dont work. Do you have pictures of the pads?

Nope, unfortunately i had Unplugged install them for me so i never really saw them by themselves. But they're black-ish if that helps

I requested a high performance pad (higher than the Sport one they sell) and Ben from UP can get them for you if you'd like. Basically they are more aggressive and can take more heat, but generate more dust and have a very slight squeak every now and then. Luckily since we have regen i hardly use them on the street though, so i'm very happy.

 

[SD_Engnr]

Wanted to provide a quick update -

I ended up buying a custom set of aluminum hubcentric rings to mount a set of Enkeis. They didn't fit right out of the box, and required a bit of work to make them fit. Obviously, that was an annoyance, but I'm working with the manufacturer, and they are going to make it right.

Hubring mounted, but not seated all the way. It was a tight fit, and I needed to finish cutting a groove to be able to remove it:

Enkei TFR 19x9.5 +35 in 265/35-19 (RE71R):

 

[kbecks13]

Unplugged also has their brake pads on the website now (reading above comments about them): Unplugged Performance Sport Brake Pads for Tesla Model 3 Performance

 

[Mister.T]

Has anyone considered using spacers (BloxSport for example) with M12 wheel studs to install Japanese-spec'd wheels onto their P3D+ by chance? There's a used set of WedsSport wheels locally in perfect condition for a great price; I'm just not liking the idea of drilling out the holes to fit it onto the car (for both safety and resale purposes). Since it'll need about 10/15mm F/R spacers to get the stance I'm looking for anyway, I might as well try using M12 spacers instead of the standard M14s. If so, what size are the "receiving" holes on the spacer? The ones that bolt onto the car's hub?

 

[SD_Engnr]

Has anyone considered using spacers (BloxSport for example) with M12 wheel studs to install Japanese-spec'd wheels onto their P3D+ by chance? There's a used set of WedsSport wheels locally in perfect condition for a great price; I'm just not liking the idea of drilling out the holes to fit it onto the car (for both safety and resale purposes). Since it'll need about 10/15mm F/R spacers to get the stance I'm looking for anyway, I might as well try using M12 spacers instead of the standard M14s. If so, what size are the "receiving" holes on the spacer? The ones that bolt onto the car's hub?

I'm a huge fan of J-Spec wheels, but not bolt on spacers. It looks like you can specify the bolt thread: BLOXSPORT 7075T6 5x114.3 64.1 for Tesla Model 3 perfermance [BLM Series] - $165.00 : BLOXsport Wheel Spacers, Aluminun 7075-T6 Forged!