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MPP Front rotors for P3D+

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SD_Engnr

Active Member
Mar 24, 2016
1,898
1,550
San Diego
Finally got my set of front rotors from @MountainPass and wanted to share some details and pictures. Quick install guide is after the pics...

They are beautiful, so it's a shame I've got to install them to just dirty them up, but I wouldn't have it any other way :)

Details:

Stock P3D+ rotors (@ 5K miles)
Diameter: 14"
Thickness: 0.985" thick
Rotor hat thickness: 0.10"
Friction surface width: 2.44"
Weight: 19.4lbs
Function: Performed well on the track with upgraded MPP SS brake lines and Motul fluid
Form: Meh, but better than non performance

MPP P3D+ rotors
Diameter: 14"
Thickness: 1.03"
Rotor hat thickness: 0.297"
Friction surface width: 2.43"
Weight: 18.2lbs
Function: TBD on 3/31 at Buttonwillow (Tesla Corsa 3)
Form: :cool:



Comparison photo:
Rotor compare.jpg

Sans caliper:
MPP rotor no caliper.jpg


With caliper:
MPP rotor caliper.jpg


MPP rotors installed zoom.jpg

MPP rotors installed.jpg


As most folks know, you don't do a whole lot of traditional braking with the car if you've got regen on standard. However, I have taken a few drives with regen on low, and have enjoyed braking with these. But since I'm a responsible driver, and follow the speed limits... it was not possible for me to notice any major difference in braking on the streets. There is no additional noticeable noise. (Or I never listened closely enough before to notice whether these are louder or not).


Installation was straight forward (note, this is a guide, so follow at your own risk) -
  • Lift, and properly support vehicle.
  • Remove wheel.
  • Use an inverse torx socket (E18), and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper
    • Caliper backside.jpg
  • Remove the outer brake pad, and then remove the mechanical wear sensor (cut it off, or bend until it breaks)
    • Pad with squeal tab.jpg Squeal tab removed.jpg
  • Reinstall the pad
  • Support caliper with something, or tie it up
  • Remove the 10mm bolt securing the stock rotor, and then remove the rotor
  • Slip on the new gorgeous rotor, and temporarily secure it with a minimum 2-3 lug nuts
  • Compress the brake pads until the caliper fits over the new rotor
    • Be sure to open up the brake fluid reservoir for this step. (I forgot at first...)
  • Reinstall the caliper, and torque the torx bolts appropriately
  • Reinstall the wheel
  • Repeat for the other side
  • Marvel at your handy work :D
  • Follow a proper bedding procedure
  • Marvel at your handy work again :D
 
Really nice! I'm just installing my RB rotors (did fronts today, rears manana), will post to a parallel thread, as I don't want to hijack yours. But it is another option for folks to think about, and it also obviates the dreaded brake hub lip (as I suspect yours does too). They are somewhat lighter, at 16 lbs.
 
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... it also obviates the dreaded brake hub lip (as I suspect yours does too).

Yes, these solve the lip issue, but I still use a hubcentric ring for the wheels. And, since the rear rotors aren't available, I'm using a 3mm slip on spacer for the time being to keep the wheels evenly spaced. Not ideal to say the least, but MPP doesn't have a matching set available right now.

Really nice! I'm just installing my RB rotors (did fronts today, rears manana), will post to a parallel thread, as I don't want to hijack yours. ...

Looking forward to it. Front calipers were easy enough to remove, so I'm curious how the rears are. I'm assuming you have the P3D+?
 
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Yes, these solve the lip issue, but I still use a hubcentric ring for the wheels. And, since the rear rotors aren't available, I'm using a 3mm slip on spacer for the time being to keep the wheels evenly spaced. Not ideal to say the least, but MPP doesn't have a matching set available right now.



Looking forward to it. Front calipers were easy enough to remove, so I'm curious how the rears are. I'm assuming you have the P3D+?
Yes and you can get a matching front and rear set. Not cheap however at just about five hundred bucks a corner.
 
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Really nice! I'm just installing my RB rotors (did fronts today, rears manana), will post to a parallel thread, as I don't want to hijack yours. But it is another option for folks to think about, and it also obviates the dreaded brake hub lip (as I suspect yours does too). They are somewhat lighter, at 16 lbs.
Our rotors are thicker and have more thermal mass, which is the reason for the weight difference.
 
I measured them at 1.03", so right around 26mm.

That means there are the identical thickness to the Racing Brake parts. It's unclear where the two pounds is coming from because they both have aluminum rotor hats but when I look at my disc it is honeycombed with air passages. I wonder if that takes some of the weight out.

In any case people frequently like to talk about how there's additional 'thermal mass'. What they forget is that the specific heat of Steel is actually about one-tenth that of water so it really doesn't hold very much heat. What does change both from larger discs and from better convection is the surface area for heat dissipation. As your brake gets bigger and your internal vane structure moves more air across the surfaces you get rid of more heat. I believe that's why bigger brakes and particularly brakes designed to have optimal convection aerodynamics really do make a big difference.
 
Looks like MPP has the 2 piece rear rotor kits in stock. LINK

I'm thinking about getting these on my AWD.

Anyone else have these and notice any difference in performance from the weight savings?

I have similar two piece rotors, that are only slightly lighter. Difference isn't noticeable, or measurable on dragy either. It's just a few pounds and not in the tire belt (which might be measurable), but weight close into the hub, where the rotational inertia difference is likely too minimal to have much impact
 
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My recollection is that MPP used to have stock non-P sized versions of their front rotors for sale. I can't find them on their site anymore, did those get discontinued or is my memory just bad?
I'm considering the BBK but according to the description it'd require me to go 19" rims? Is that true or is it just that you need 18" rims with more space inside the barrel than the stock Aeros have?
 
I'm considering the BBK but according to the description it'd require me to go 19" rims? Is that true or is it just that you need 18" rims with more space inside the barrel than the stock Aeros have?

It is fairly snug even with the stock 19" wheels.
56890380_10211851188590097_4201811143271907328_n.jpg
adjust.jpg


I've heard of people getting the 365mm to fit with some aftermarket 18" wheels, but it seems rather dicey to me. I don't recall ever seeing MPP offer a stock sized kit.
 

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I'm considering the BBK but according to the description it'd require me to go 19" rims? Is that true or is it just that you need 18" rims with more space inside the barrel than the stock Aeros have?

It is fairly snug even with the stock 19" wheels.
View attachment 397741 View attachment 397746

I've heard of people getting the 365mm to fit with some aftermarket 18" wheels, but it seems rather dicey to me. I don't recall ever seeing MPP offer a stock sized kit.

The Apex 18" wheels will fit the 365mm rotors.