Actually, I don’t think it would. As long as gauge is correct and amps set right.First kiss the warranty goodbye.
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Actually, I don’t think it would. As long as gauge is correct and amps set right.First kiss the warranty goodbye.
...except that they are.BTW, arguments about being locked in are not real.
The Gen3 wall connectors have configuration available now, where you can turn on a whitelist of only certain VINs of cars allowed to charge on them. If that is enabled, then the 3rd party adapters to the generic J1772 connection won't work on other cars.The Tesla Wall connector can charge cars with a J1772 connection (just buy an adapter)
Yes, that can be a valid reason. It's not proprietary. I would still go for something more permanent and solid, though, instead of pluggable, like a hard wired J1772 station.The main reason being is that it is future proof. After I sold my Roadster, I picked up a Volvo XC40 while I wait for my Model X. It didn't cost me a single penny. Unplugged Roadster UMC from 14-50, plugged in Volvo to 14-50. Charge car.
The costs have been documented in other threads, but with all of the extra junk you need to buy now to enable using an outlet, it's only about $200 over to buy a wall connector. And then you have the wall one at home, and the mobile one in the car. Choosing instead to buy a spare mobile connector is $275, so is more expensive, not cheaper.A spare mobile connector is CHEAPER than a wall connector so just get an extra mobile connector and leave it plugged in all the time.
These are weird. I'm not sure why people believe a wall connector is impossible to remove or not allowed to be removed. It can be taken with you very easily.Also, when you sell the house, you can take your mobile connector with you and you'll just have 14-50s in the garage waiting for the next owner.
No, probably not. There is a very legitimate reason for that. Lots of people are using a lot of different ways to connect their cars now--6-20, 14-30, wall connectors, etc. Giving thousands of one particular type of plug, many of which will never be used, is kind of dumb and didn't make sense to do. Not everyone is going to use a 14-50, so why try to one-size-fits-all everyone?Finally, the reason Tesla isn't including 14-50 plus any more is because they are cheap a$$es and love nickel and diming their customers.
No, that's not true either. There is a very good legitimate reason for this too. NEC allows putting 14-50 outlets on 40A circuits, and this is unfortunately pretty common. Those should only be used at up to 32A. There's some risk there, with having to rely on breakers working right and tripping if people are overdrawing by plugging into 40A circuits, and the old mobile connectors drawing 40A for many hours. It was more safe to have the mobile connector always limit to 32A, so it's always appropriate for those 50A outlet types, regardless of whether they were installed on 40 or 50 amp circuits.The same reason they have lowered the Gen 2 mobile connector charge rate to 32A when 40A is allowed by code - they can use cheaper wiring in the connector.
They've been kind of all over the place on that. My 2014 car only has a 40A charger. I am going to be glad when we get our Model Y later this year, which has a 48A charger, so that's an improvement.Same for the internal chargers in the cars.
They are hit or miss, like the Gen3 wall connector being the same price but much worse than the Gen2, but the things you tried to point out do have good explanations of intelligence and best practice.Please don't confuse Tesla improving their margins with having some kind of intelligence or being a best practice.
This is absolutely WRONG. Stop spreading FUD and scaring people. The electrical code absolutely states that a 14-50 can sustain 40A continuous loads.Yet another reason to go wall connector.
There was a reason Tesla lowered the Mobile to 32A. Because a 14-50 outlet cannot sustain 40A charging. I also think it had no temp sensor on the plug.
Throw the old gen mobile in the trash if it comes with one.
Sure. But people have been using different plugs for years. They should do what they did in the Roadster days, which was ask you what plug you wanted. You got 1 free with purchase and then you could buy more if needed. It would be simple to include a little drop-down on the order page or have a bunch at the delivery centers and you picked the one you wanted when you got the car. Not it's just another little gotcha to make an extra $40 on every car.No, probably not. There is a very legitimate reason for that. Lots of people are using a lot of different ways to connect their cars now--6-20, 14, 30, wall connectors, etc. Giving thousands of one particular type of plug, many of which will never be used, is kind of dumb and didn't make sense to do. Not everyone is going to use a 14-50, so why try to one-size-fits-all everyone?
More connections, more points of failure. Thanks for the data point. Hardwired is the way to go.This is absolutely WRONG. Stop spreading FUD and scaring people. The electrical code absolutely states that a 14-50 can sustain 40A continuous loads.
I had a Gen 1 mobile connector that charged at 40A. The melting/burning occurred where the adapter interfaced to the mobile connector, NOT at the 14-50 plug. The Gen 1 problems were 100% Tesla's fault for not building a product that could handle 40A. So instead of building a robust product they limited the current.
That is fine as far as it goes, but your assertion that Tesla lowered the mobile connector to 32A because of the 14-50 interface is flat out wrong. The proof is that the "Corded Mobile Connector" that has a hard-wired 14-50 plug will charge at 40A while the "Mobile Connector Bundle" uses adapters and will only charge at 32A. This tells you that the limitation is w/ the adapter interface and not the 14-50 plug.
Further, the Roadster MCUs are still to this day charging at 40A and have not had a problem.
Or credit that towards a wall connector.@strider Yes, I've been suggesting that in several other threads. They should have some kind of electronic voucher in your account with each new car purchase for one mobile adapter of your choice.
Installing a NEMA 14-50 is the antithesis of future proofing. Single phase charging on J1772 can take up to 80A; the NEMA 14-50 can only supply half of that to a continuous load. You want to maximally future proof your setup? Go with 2 or 3 AWG wiring that can carry 80A of continuous load and then hardwire your Wall Connector to it. If you get something else in the future that can charge at 80A, then remove the Wall Connector and install a 80A EVSE, then change the breaker in your panel (but you shouldn't ever have to open walls or run wiring again).I have 2 x 14-50s in my garage. Unless you NEED the extra charge rate from a wall charger, I would stick w/ 14-50s. The main reason being is that it is future proof.
Nope. You will have modified the unit from how it was certified, that voids the warranty.Actually, I don’t think it would. As long as gauge is correct and amps set right.
Really, you want to go there? You have some good points @Rocky_H but this is not one of them. You just don’t enable it.The Gen3 wall connectors have configuration available now, where you can turn on a whitelist of only certain VINs of cars allowed to charge on them. If that is enabled, then the 3rd party adapters to the generic J1772 connection won't work on other cars.
We're talking about two different things then. Earlier in the thread, people were talking about the positive feature that you can have the wall connector "locked", as in permission locked down to only your own cars, so unauthorized people can't use it. That is a feature people have asked for for a while and is a benefit. You said "that's not real", and I thought you were indicating that wasn't an existing function.Really, you want to go there? You have some good points @Rocky_H but this is not one of them. You just don’t enable it.
A spare mobile connector is CHEAPER than a wall connector so just get an extra mobile connector and leave it plugged in all the time.
No, you’re not modifying the unit. You need to feed it power. You can feed it with romex, conduit or a cord. It doesn’t affect the Wall Connector and Tesla would never know how you fed it.Nope. You will have modified the unit from how it was certified, that voids the warranty.
If anyone is going to go the route of a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, do yourself a favor and buy a Hubbell or a Bryant branded socket and not the $10 Leviton one that is sold at the big box stores. It can be difficult to get good wire connections on the Leviton and they can melt. Plenty of folks have posted on TMC that have had that experience. But the Hubbell or the Bryant (now owned by Hubbell and cheaper) receptacles are the way to go for a solid connection...Don't forget, this connection can be one of the highest-powered appliance-type connections in your home, so you want to do it right...
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It would not violate code or warranty.The comment and posting about the cord was only because the poster mentioned that it would be nice if Tesla had a wall connector with a cord. If they did, it would have pretty much exactly what I posted as a link. A #6 AWG cord set. If someone was really bent on doing it, Tesla not offering it would not be a showstopper and using a cord set on it would not be a code infraction because, as stated, you can feed power to it any way you want as long as the wiring/breaker size and coordination are per code.
Whatever dude. You can do whatever you want. If you want to overbuild and overpay, be my guest.Installing a NEMA 14-50 is the antithesis of future proofing. Single phase charging on J1772 can take up to 80A; the NEMA 14-50 can only supply half of that to a continuous load. You want to maximally future proof your setup? Go with 2 or 3 AWG wiring that can carry 80A of continuous load and then hardwire your Wall Connector to it. If you get something else in the future that can charge at 80A, then remove the Wall Connector and install a 80A EVSE, then change the breaker in your panel (but you shouldn't ever have to open walls or run wiring again).