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Ran out of juice, 12V and main pack drained, need info.

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As an owner in waiting, am I correct in saying that the range displayed on the speedo is not kWh left divided by your recent average driving kWh usage?

Can on someone tell me what range actually represents and how it's worked out?

My understanding is that it is just the SOC (as in how many percent of charge is left) projected to a number of miles. It assumes the EPA 300 wh/mile usage. In cold weather or in town with a heavy foot I see the remaining miles go down much faster than actual miles. Especially short trips in cold weather (the heating penalty is greatest the first few miles).

You can pull up energy usage on the center screen and it will show "estimated range" which does use your driving history to calculate how much you have left. Unfortunately you can't display the estimated range on your gauge cluster. I would like for Tesla to give that as an option for the gauge cluster as I think it would help people plan their stops better.
 
As an owner in waiting, am I correct in saying that the range displayed on the speedo is not kWh left divided by your recent average driving kWh usage?

Can on someone tell me what range actually represents and how it's worked out?

It's not quite as straightforward as that. I started a discussion some time back in order to try and reconcile the various displays presented. I think we covered several aspects of what the car is doing.

You can find it here: Energy Accounting

Hope that helps.
 
Rated range is more complex than this: cinergi started a thread to collect data regarding answers to the question, "What is your Wh/mi in the Trips display when your Rated range equals the last-30-miles-average Proected range?" He's getting numbers from owners ranging from the 280's to the 300's. Also, a TM engineering source stated that driving style is factored into Rated range. Have a look at this thread:

Rated range affected by driving history? - Page 4
 
I've heard of it but never tried it, I will now though, thanks for the tip!

I have found EVTripPlanner to be quite good at estimating energy usage, especially with temps and the ups and downs in Colorado. There is not a good estimate for very high winds, but you can get an idea the effects by turning up the speed to faster than you will actually drive. Also, there is not a good estimate for running your defroster to keep the windshield clear or having to plow through slush. Just give yourself extra margin for those scenarios.

Have fun with your MS!
 
It would be nice if Tesla would prevent the battery heat from kicking in automatically when the battery is nearly exhausted. It would be nice if drivers could override the battery heat in such circumstances.

However under these circumstances I would not blame Tesla's range estimates. They are only estimates. The estimates are made with variables that Tesla has no control over and cannot be reasonably estimated.

The estimates are only a ballpark figure. Tesla's estimates cannot be expected to accurately predict how the driver drives, weather, road conditions, climate control settings, traffic, etc. There are too many variables that are unknown to expect estimates to be gospel and pinpoint.

Drivers should give themselves about a 50 to 20 miles of reserve and keep an eye on their usage rate and how much is left. Drivers should leave a comfortable margin of error in their favor. There is always the possibility of unforeseen circumstances. Detours, delays, weather, etc.
 
OH THE IRONY!!!
And I know I'm not the only one who sees this. ;)

I read the headline and who the OP was, and I knew I had to read this one. Oh are the lessons drilled home in the 17 pages posted here for sure!

Still the best car to drive in sub freezing temps.

Glad all are safe in the end.
 
Wow…Some people are being pretty rough on Islandbayy. He knows he screwed up and he knows that Tesla doesn't owe him anything. He posted from some advice and to share is experience, not to complain about running out of charge.

Anyway, I wonder if Tesla has considered mobile supercharging units for just this occasion. You could have a handful of them station around the country at service centers and could be dispatched as needed. It would be one more way of shutting on the naysayers and also give owners some piece of mind. I one thing I do find really troubling about this how thing is that he could not put the car in tow mode. Regardless of what has happened to the car, the tow mode should always be able to be activated. this is a big deal that tesla needs to address. Maybe the need a manual lever for tow mode that somehow disengages the drive gear similar to how the doors have a manual open lever.
 
... all windows were up and key fob extended door handles when I got to the car this morning. had to jump it off the tow truck to get center console to wake. ...

... Regardless of what has happened to the car, the tow mode should always be able to be activated. this is a big deal that tesla needs to address. Maybe the need a manual lever for tow mode that somehow disengages the drive gear similar to how the doors have a manual open lever.

Actually, he did find a solution. It appears that the problem was that his 12V battery was so discharged that a little booster pack did not have enough energy to get the 12V system back to where it was happy enough to enable tow mode. Once he connected serious booster cables from the tow truck (almost all have these), and waited a while to get some charge into the 12V battery, he was able to get tow mode engaged and on his way.

The lesson to be learned here is to know where and how to get to the 12V terminals up front in the MS, and to know that it may take many minutes of using booster cables from a running tow truck (charging voltage) to get the MS's 12V battery back to where it will go into tow mode.
 
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The lesson to be learned here is to know where and how to get to the 12V terminals up front in the MS, and to know that it may take many minutes of using booster cables from a running tow truck (charging voltage) to get the MS's 12V battery back to where it will go into tow mode.

I suppose if Tesla makes this crystal clear in the owners manual it would be acceptable however it still is somewhat counter intuitive to most people that have been driving ICE cars their whole life. A dead battery shouldn't prevent you from putting the car into tow mode.
 
While trying to think of a simple system to engage tow mode in OPs case. The complexity seems to due to the fact that E-brake is computer controlled. When there isn't enough power to run the computer, it can't disengage. Can consider providing external power to directly trigger tow mode without the infotainment computer but then you have a security problem.

It seems highly desirable to provide a simple purely mechanical solution to engage tow mode. Tesla's design philosophy seems to be put every mechanical system under computer control. This is great for improving the car via software. However, seems like emergency backup systems should just use the old technology. Simplicity is desirable in these situations since there are many variables in failure paths in emergency situations.
 
Islandbayy was charging but left too early; his calculations didn't include weather and elevation and I'm finding it hard to see how that's Tesla's responsibility.

True story from last week: my wife was at the gym talking to someone who also had a Model S. The person concerned said they looooove Tesla but the car's no good for driving even to Tampa. My puzzled spouse asked why not (Tampa is less than 50 miles away)? The answer came "Oh I never have enough charge, I keep forgetting to plug it in at night...".

Tesla sold the car and provided the UMC, maybe they should also provide butlers?
Or require an IQ test before turning over the keys.
 
Anyway, I wonder if Tesla has considered mobile supercharging units for just this occasion. You could have a handful of them station around the country at service centers and could be dispatched as needed.

The issue with that is that you would need to pay and house staff to be on-call 24x7 to dispatch a mobile SC unit. But there's already a fully developed infrastructure to do that -- AAA/Roadside assistance/tow trucks. So all that's needed (and AAA is already doing) is to outfit their existing equipment with enough juice to either revive the 12v pack to enable tow mode, and/or charge the main pack enough for 5-10 miles of driving to the closest L1/L2/SC charging station.

But I also like the idea of a double-headed charging cable to allow any MS to emergency charge another MS in need. I for one would be happy to venture out to help another Tesla owner in need of a charge if we had that capability. But since I live within 8 miles of one SC, and 3.5 miles of another, I doubt I'd ever need to do that from home... but on a road trip and seeing a stranded MS, sure thing I'd stop and give up whatever charge I didn't need to get to my destination.

In effect, we ALL could be mobile supercharging units.
 
So to summarise, the potential answer for islandbayy and the next person to run out of charge would be:
1: Stop safely on the side of the road, put your car in tow mode and turn it off. Put chocks under the wheels if on a slope.
2: Call Tesla or local tow service and request a flat bed lift.
3: When the tow truck arrives it should be easy for the Tow Truck Driver to winch your Model S onto the flat bed and take you to a charging place.
4: If you've forgotten to put your car into tow mode, remove the front nose cone and ask the Tow Truck to charge your 12V battery for 15 minutes, then wake the car and put it into tow mode to allow for the lift.
5: If all the above does not work, the tow truck needs to arrange for a four wheel dolly lift.

Does anyone have anything to alter or add to the above?
 
I suppose if Tesla makes this crystal clear in the owners manual it would be acceptable however it still is somewhat counter intuitive to most people that have been driving ICE cars their whole life. A dead battery shouldn't prevent you from putting the car into tow mode.

Maybe if you're driving a 20-30 year-old vehicle that still has mechanical systems. Even modern ICE vehicle systems are all electronically controlled and will not function with a dead 12V. When I killed the 12V in our Lexus hybrid by leaving an interior light on, absolutely nothing would work because all the powered accessories (seats, windows, locks, rear hatch, etc). The most frustrating thing was that our battery booster was in the rear storage area but was inaccessible because of the electronic latch on the rear door (no mechanical release).

So to summarise, the potential answer for islandbayy and the next person to run out of charge would be:
1: Stop safely on the side of the road, put your car in tow mode and turn it off. Put chocks under the wheels if on a slope.
2: Call Tesla or local tow service and request a flat bed lift.
3: When the tow truck arrives it should be easy for the Tow Truck Driver to winch your Model S onto the flat bed and take you to a charging place.
4: If you've forgotten to put your car into tow mode, remove the front nose cone and ask the Tow Truck to charge your 12V battery for 15 minutes, then wake the car and put it into tow mode to allow for the lift.
5: If all the above does not work, the tow truck needs to arrange for a four wheel dolly lift.

Does anyone have anything to alter or add to the above?

The only potential problem I see is in step 3 when the tow truck goes to pull the car onto the flatbed. Newer cars have a tow-eye, but older ones (like Islandbayy's) rely on a somewhat complicated setup which involves hooking tow-chains to the suspension and bracing using a block of wood. This latter method has a high probability of damaging the car if not performed correctly. And not all tow companies may have the right equipment for it.
 
Maybe if you're driving a 20-30 year-old vehicle that still has mechanical systems. Even modern ICE vehicle systems are all electronically controlled and will not function with a dead 12V. When I killed the 12V in our Lexus hybrid by leaving an interior light on, absolutely nothing would work because all the powered accessories (seats, windows, locks, rear hatch, etc). The most frustrating thing was that our battery booster was in the rear storage area but was inaccessible because of the electronic latch on the rear door (no mechanical release).



The only potential problem I see is in step 3 when the tow truck goes to pull the car onto the flatbed. Newer cars have a tow-eye, but older ones (like Islandbayy's) rely on a somewhat complicated setup which involves hooking tow-chains to the suspension and bracing using a block of wood. This latter method has a high probability of damaging the car if not performed correctly. And not all tow companies may have the right equipment for it.

Just for the record, I have a car in the 24,000 range and no tow hook. When I asked about it I was told they were not supplying them any more. Do newer cars have them?
 
Just for the record, I have a car in the 24,000 range and no tow hook. When I asked about it I was told they were not supplying them any more. Do newer cars have them?

To clarify; are you saying you just weren't supplied with a tow-hook bolt, or that there is nowhere to attach one to the car even if you were? I seem to recall some people reporting that the bolt got left out of their cars at delivery but they still had the mounting hole for one.
 
When I killed the 12V in our Lexus hybrid by leaving an interior light on, absolutely nothing would work because all the powered accessories (seats, windows, locks, rear hatch, etc). The most frustrating thing was that our battery booster was in the rear storage area but was inaccessible because of the electronic latch on the rear door (no mechanical release).
All that electronic control and an interior light didn't automatically shut off?
 
I haven't read this whole thread...
True story from last week: my wife was at the gym talking to someone who also had a Model S. The person concerned said they looooove Tesla but the car's no good for driving even to Tampa. My puzzled spouse asked why not (Tampa is less than 50 miles away)? The answer came "Oh I never have enough charge, I keep forgetting to plug it in at night...".

Tesla sold the car and provided the UMC, maybe they should also provide butlers?
Weird!

As for forgetting, does/can the Model S send plug-in reminder text messages or emails?

On my Leaf, you can have set preferred charging locations and if you power off near/at those locations w/o plugging in, it'll send you a reminder to plug in. Mine's set to deliver those via email. It can be set for either email or texts.

I tend to receive those at my work as I don't plug in when I arrive at work. I intentionally defer my charging until much later in the day for numerous reasons (e.g. to avoid contention, having to move my car later to free up a spot, to give priority to folks who leave earlier/may have great need, etc.)