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Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health

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Confused.
Yeah, you are definitely not the only one. That has been confusing a lot of people for a long time.
"Since Last Charge" is pretty specific language. Why would idle data be excluded?
Yeah, you would think so, and we don't know why they decided to do it that way, but it only counts the usage when the car is in Drive or Reverse. It's weird, but that's the way it's set up.
Even if it is, idle power loss is quite minimal in these vehicle, I believe.
No, it's definitely not minimal. That has actually been quite a frequent gripe about Tesla's EVs versus many other car brands' EVs. Tesla is doing quite a lot with their onboard computer systems and have pretty high vampire drain. You can reduce it from extremely high drain to only moderate drain by turning off some settings, but it's still more than it needs to be and certainly a lot more than cars like the Nissan Leaf.
Still hoping my issue is battery related and can be fixed, as 63 kWh battery capacity is below replacement % rates and my vehicle is new.
It's not 63 kWh.
 
and you live in Austin TX, its not like there are crazy weather extremes or mountains/hills to worry about. I think Tesla definitely needs to be more forthcoming with honest real driving data when it comes to range. The difference between EPA and actual range is astonishing... I would have paid extra for a M3 LR if I had known better.
Agreed! BTW, Sentry Mode is off to save power per Tesla's suggestion.
Here's the kicker. Went to www.tesla.com and began a Model 3 LR chat with a Tesla rep. Did this before buying, and also talked with local reps at the service location here in Austin. Asked the online rep if 353 miles is a real world range for someone driving normally and on long trips as I don't want to have to stop and recharge every 200 or 250 miles. The verbatim response, which mirrors the response of all Tesla employees I asked similar questions to, was "The mileage is accurate. How soon are you looking to get a new Model 3?" I replied that I don't want a car that makes me stop every 200 or 250 miles to recharge, and the reply was, "I understand and the mileage is accurate. You may get notified to stop before you hit the 353 but only so you do not run out of charge."
Sure seems like a big disconnect between the pre-sale Tesla employees and the post-sale Tesla service employees. Inaccurate advertising would be a mild description of the discrepancy. Very surprised my situation seems to be acceptable to many here.
 
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Agreed! BTW, Sentry Mode is off to save power per Tesla's suggestion.
Here's the kicker. Went to www.tesla.com and began a Model 3 LR chat with a Tesla rep. Did this before buying, and also talked with local reps at the service location here in Austin. Asked the online rep if 353 miles is a real world range for someone driving normally and on long trips as I don't want to have to stop and recharge every 200 or 250 miles. The verbatim response, which mirrors the response of all Tesla employees I asked similar questions to, was "The mileage is accurate. How soon are you looking to get a new Model 3?" I replied that I don't want a car that makes me stop every 200 or 250 miles to recharge, and the reply was, "I understand and the mileage is accurate. You may get notified to stop before you hit the 353 but only so you do not run out of charge."
Sure seems like a big disconnect between the pre-sale Tesla employees and the post-sale Tesla service employees. Inaccurate advertising would be a mild description of the discrepancy. Very surprised my situation seems to be acceptable to many here.

Like with anything I think it is brand loyalty, or maybe it doesn't bother them as much. Either way, Tesla doesn't have to worry about turning off a majority of customers with the "exaggeration"... People let it slide, they drive a Tesla. Just let your new Ford Focus have a big MPG discrepancy then the poop would really hit the fan. Remember the Hyundai MPG controversy/settlement? People ignore things for various reasons. The range thing kinda pisses me off, but I still love my Tesla.
 
Posted this to another user. Apologies if it's a mistake to post it here, but would appreciate your opinion. I'm averaging around 240 Wh/mile over time. Using your calculations, the vehicle should easily drive over 300 miles using 99% charge capacity. Again, think the issue is my vehicle only will charge at 100% to 63 kWh, and the local Tesla service manager tells me that's perfectly acceptable for a new vehicle. Frustrated...

So here's my info. I live in Austin, TX. I've reported this issue twice to Tesla service in the past month. They asked me to charge to 100% and discharge to as much as possible. I charged to 100% and over 5 days depleted the car to 1%. Vehicle drove 258.5 miles, used 63 kWh of power, and 243 Wh/mile per the "Since Last Charge" screen.
I then charged the car to 90%, depleted it to 10% over 4-5 days. Vehicle drove 212 miles, used 50 kWh of power, and 237 Wh/mile per the "Since Last Charge" screen. 50 kWh divided by 80% = 63 kWh battery capacity at 100% and 265 mile total range at 100%. Both charge to depletion driving habits were a mix of city and hwy.
I made a new service appointment based on this info.
Yesterday, the Austin office called with a tech and a local manager, told me not to bring my vehicle in for service, and told me my car is operating properly. I asserted my vehicle is the 2021 Model 3 LR (refreshed) that should have the 82 kWh battery. He stated Tesla does not use or discuss battery size. He did confirm that my average of 237 Wh/mile and 243 Wh/mile is very efficient. But he tried to convince me that the "Since Last Charge" screen does not capture total energy usage "since last charge" claiming it may miss idle time. He also stated the vehicle may well be able to drive an additional amount after displaying 0% battery, possibly as much as 20-30% more. I replied that driving the vehicle to depletion and calling a tow truck would be a poor experiment for me to try.
I asked Tesla to inspect my battery for issues related to possible improper wiring (i.e. not all cells being accessible), or some major degradation prior to delivery. My logic is Tesla warrants the battery so they must be able to determine charge capacity and degradation percent. His reply is that this info is the "secret sauce" of Tesla and that their over the air data shows my battery is fully charging despite the 63 kWh total capacity on the "Since Last Charge" screen.
I'm stumped, and at a dead end with my local Tesla center. Any suggestions on how to escalate this issue, as a 260 mile range vehicle operating efficiently (about 240 Wh/mile over time) is not acceptable. I think this is related to the battery 63 kWh capacity. BTW, my ex-wife bought a 2021 Model Y delivered the same week and is having similar range issues.
Appreciate any brainstorming you can offer.
The best way to test is to do the drive in one go, no stopping time, since if you have Smart Summon or Sentry on, you can easily lose 1.4 miles/hr in phantom drain losses. Over 4 or 5 days, you can lose 60 to 80 miles of range just from that. Even with all that turned off, you can easily lose from 0.1 to 0.4miles/hr just for the other stuff that runs when the car is off. That's still 6 to 24 miles over 4 or 5 days.

You would think Tesla can see in their remote diagnostics, how big the battery is. I have an app that seems to think they can tell, ABRP (abetterrouteplanner.com). Using ABRP it can tell you quite alot about your car, your efficiency at 65mph, and how much degradation you might have. It gets that info when you Supercharge. It's free, you just have to register your Tesla credentials to pull the api data from your car.
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Agreed! BTW, Sentry Mode is off to save power per Tesla's suggestion.
Here's the kicker. Went to www.tesla.com and began a Model 3 LR chat with a Tesla rep. Did this before buying, and also talked with local reps at the service location here in Austin. Asked the online rep if 353 miles is a real world range for someone driving normally and on long trips as I don't want to have to stop and recharge every 200 or 250 miles. The verbatim response, which mirrors the response of all Tesla employees I asked similar questions to, was "The mileage is accurate. How soon are you looking to get a new Model 3?" I replied that I don't want a car that makes me stop every 200 or 250 miles to recharge, and the reply was, "I understand and the mileage is accurate. You may get notified to stop before you hit the 353 but only so you do not run out of charge."
Sure seems like a big disconnect between the pre-sale Tesla employees and the post-sale Tesla service employees. Inaccurate advertising would be a mild description of the discrepancy. Very surprised my situation seems to be acceptable to many here.
As I mentioned above, ABRP is a great app and website that you'll want to play around with. It'll show you the optimal trip strategies. Because the car charges faster at low SOC, below 60%, the optimal trip strategy is usually to drive fast, and charge often at low SOCs, ~15%.

You can actually figure out the optimal charge strategy. The car charges fastest between 10 and 60% SOC, so about half the battery, or in your case, I'd say about 150miles. Thus, the optimum trip strategy will typically tell you to charge every 150miles or so. That charge time should be in the 10 to 20min range, depending upon supercharger type. In the end, you'll find faster driving, with 12 to 15min stops every 150miles will get you to your destination the quickest.

Salesmen are salesmen. What do you expect? They'll tell you the truth? The buyers typically know more than the salesperson.

Just remember, you have to change your ICE driving mindset. You don't fill up and drive until you are close to empty. Not everyone has a steel bladder that can last 3 or 4 hrs. Most people stop every couple hours, and that's basically the optimal charge strategy for your Tesla. Stop every 150miles or so, a couple hours, and charge for 15mins, get a cup of coffee, use the toilet. Repeat until you get where you're going.
 
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Just remember, you have to change your ICE driving mindset. You don't fill up and drive until you are close to empty. Not everyone has a steel bladder that can last 3 or 4 hrs. Most people stop every couple hours, and that's basically the optimal charge strategy for your Tesla. Stop every 150miles or so, a couple hours, and charge for 15mins, get a cup of coffee, use the toilet. Repeat until you get where you're going.

That’s exactly what I do, except for the first leg of a long trip. I charge to 80 or 90% at home and drive first thing in the morning for ~3 hours (about 200 miles) to the first SC. After that first restroom stop though, the “seal is broken” so there’s no way I can drive straight for over 2 hours again for the rest of the day :D
 
The verbatim response, which mirrors the response of all Tesla employees I asked similar questions to, was "The mileage is accurate. How soon are you looking to get a new Model 3?" I replied that I don't want a car that makes me stop every 200 or 250 miles to recharge, and the reply was, "I understand and the mileage is accurate.
Ugh, sales people. I do think that's a bad answer, regardless of whether it's a gas or electric car, because most of the time people come up somewhat short of the EPA ratings. But also, asking a question with vague wording doesn't have an exact answer:
Asked the online rep if 353 miles is a real world range for someone driving normally
"normally"? If you asked 100 people what the exact conditions or speed for "normal" are, you would get 100 different answers. You can get over 600 real miles from that 353 "rated miles" if you do certain things. Or it will yield 353 if you drive it exactly as the EPA conditions specify.

I can match the rated miles with my car sometimes in good conditions, but that's not in January or February. And I think that's thing that is the big surprise that comes from electric vehicles, which--yes--the sales people need to make people more aware of. When I was getting my car, several people asked me, "How's the range loss when running the A/C?" Because they are used to these conditions from a gas car: Running heat--no difference because it's free. Running A/C--slight range loss because it's a heat pump type of operation. It came as a surprise for me to let them know that A/C was a small difference, but heat was a much bigger difference because it was a straight up resistive heater that takes a lot of energy. (The newer Tesla vehicles are getting a heat pump, so this should be moderated some). EPA conditions don't include any heating or cooling, so that is an "extra" factor that needs to be included in the winter, and yes, sales people need to be more real about letting people know of it.
 
Why would idle data be excluded? Even if it is, idle power loss is quite minimal in these vehicle, I believe.

This has already been answered correctly by @Rocky_H.

The loss is substantial. It depends on many factors, many of which can be reduced. But it cannot be eliminated.

At an average over time of 240 Wh/mile, with an 82 kWh battery

You have a 77.8kWh battery with the LR. The Performance has an 82.1kWh battery (typically only 81kWh available at the current time).

This is extremely well documented for 2021 vehicles; there is no doubt about it. You can take that 77.8kWh number as gospel (for your initial capacity). Your battery shows 353 rated miles at a full charge, which confirms that your battery actually has that capacity (this number WILL go down with time, and directly shows your capacity loss).

am surprised the issue of getting only about 70% of EPA range when operating the vehicle efficiently per Tesla is not more well publicized. Had I believed my situation a possibility, I would not have migrated to this car. At worst, I figured I'd be well above 300 miles of range on a full charge.

It's actually very well publicized in this forum, and we've taken great efforts to document it in the stickies for prospective owners. But certainly it is not well presented by Tesla.

Sure seems like a big disconnect between the pre-sale Tesla employees and the post-sale Tesla service employees. Inaccurate advertising would be a mild description of the discrepancy. Very surprised my situation seems to be acceptable to many here.

One reason it is sort of acceptable, from a range perspective: These idle losses only add up in daily driving, when you're spending a great deal of time in park, and access to charging is frequent. They of course cost money, in energy, but they do not actually affect your range.

Take a road trip, and THEN take a look at the available energy. In that case, you'll find (when your car is new), that you have ~95.5% of that total energy (total energy 77.8kWh for you at the moment). So you'll see about 73.5 to 74kWh from 100% to 0% (with the remaining 4.5% of your energy, which you can use (it was used in the EPA test) but is not recommended, since you'll likely get stuck on the side of the road, being below 0%)

Your full charge energy is 353 rated miles, which is 77.8kWh; there is definitely nothing wrong with your battery. Check the stickies for more info.

I'd expect on a typical road trip you'd get about 250 miles or so per full charge at 70-80mph freeway speeds. If you are driving much more slowly (50mph max speed), you might well see in excess of 300 miles. To get 353 miles of range from 100% to 0%, you MUST drive continuously, and you must see about 210Wh/mi consumption. If you get 240Wh/mi consumption, your range will be about 310 miles.

If you drive at 20mph continuously (no stopping or starting) without any climate control use, I'd expect you'd see in excess of 500 miles of range. The record is over 600 miles for a RWD LR (with various other differences from the vehicles available today). Obviously that is never going to happen in normal use.

I did to a 130 mile r/t on state highways recently (65 mph with some stop lights) in one day to go hiking. The vehicle was charged to 100%, and when I got home it was at 50%, 244 Wh/mile for that trip.

This doesn't exactly add up, but we'd have to know the exact distance traveled, and we'd need to know how much energy your car lost while sitting, when you were hiking. It actually seems like it might have been substantial - I estimate 5kWh (were you using Sentry mode at that time?). Did you spend any time sitting at the trailhead with the heat or the AC on? You basically have to check the % when you park, and when you get back to the car (and it's better to use rated miles since you'll get better resolution). Obviously all the % numbers have to be exactly correct to do these calculations accurately but they are quite deterministic (within about 1%) - as long as you remove all the losses when in park.

If you need further explanation, we're happy to explain here. You mostly seem upset, which I understand, but we're here to help describe what is actually happening with your car, and what to expect.
 
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So here's my info. I live in Austin, TX. I've reported this issue twice to Tesla service in the past month. They asked me to charge to 100% and discharge to as much as possible. I charged to 100% and over 5 days depleted the car to 1%. Vehicle drove 258.5 miles, used 63 kWh of power, and 243 Wh/mile per the "Since Last Charge" screen.
I then charged the car to 90%, depleted it to 10% over 4-5 days. Vehicle drove 212 miles, used 50 kWh of power, and 237 Wh/mile per the "Since Last Charge" screen. 50 kWh divided by 80% = 63 kWh battery capacity at 100% and 265 mile total range at 100%. Both charge to depletion driving habits were a mix of city and hwy.
I made a new service appointment based on this info.
Yesterday, the Austin office called with a tech and a local manager, told me not to bring my vehicle in for service, and told me my car is operating properly. I asserted my vehicle is the 2021 Model 3 LR (refreshed) that should have the 82 kWh battery. He stated Tesla does not use or discuss battery size. He did confirm that my average of 237 Wh/mile and 243 Wh/mile is very efficient. But he tried to convince me that the "Since Last Charge" screen does not capture total energy usage "since last charge" claiming it may miss idle time. He also stated the vehicle may well be able to drive an additional amount after displaying 0% battery, possibly as much as 20-30% more. I replied that driving the vehicle to depletion and calling a tow truck would be a poor experiment for me to try.
I asked Tesla to inspect my battery for issues related to possible improper wiring (i.e. not all cells being accessible), or some major degradation prior to delivery. My logic is Tesla warrants the battery so they must be able to determine charge capacity and degradation percent. His reply is that this info is the "secret sauce" of Tesla and that their over the air data shows my battery is fully charging despite the 63 kWh total capacity on the "Since Last Charge" screen.
I'm stumped, and at a dead end with my local Tesla center. Any suggestions on how to escalate this issue, as a 260 mile range vehicle operating efficiently (about 240 Wh/mile over time) is not acceptable. I think this is related to the battery 63 kWh capacity. BTW, my ex-wife bought a 2021 Model Y delivered the same week and is having similar range issues.
Appreciate any brainstorming you can offer.

ohhh thats completely fine. as long as the BMS indicates that yo uget 550km on full charge its not an issue. the rated range is a direct reflection of battery health for the most part. driving down only giving you 63kwh is a bit odd though I must admit. Maybe use teslafi and have a look what they say and also see how far you can drive if you use around 150w/km.
 
Agreed! BTW, Sentry Mode is off to save power per Tesla's suggestion.
Here's the kicker. Went to www.tesla.com and began a Model 3 LR chat with a Tesla rep. Did this before buying, and also talked with local reps at the service location here in Austin. Asked the online rep if 353 miles is a real world range for someone driving normally and on long trips as I don't want to have to stop and recharge every 200 or 250 miles. The verbatim response, which mirrors the response of all Tesla employees I asked similar questions to, was "The mileage is accurate. How soon are you looking to get a new Model 3?" I replied that I don't want a car that makes me stop every 200 or 250 miles to recharge, and the reply was, "I understand and the mileage is accurate. You may get notified to stop before you hit the 353 but only so you do not run out of charge."
Sure seems like a big disconnect between the pre-sale Tesla employees and the post-sale Tesla service employees. Inaccurate advertising would be a mild description of the discrepancy. Very surprised my situation seems to be acceptable to many here.

if you drive at typical texas speeds (i assume you guys drive like 140-150kmh? (80-90mph?)) then 250 miles is exellent.
We all assumed that you have 250 miles rated rnage which is completely different. The old new Model 3s used to do maybe 200 miles on a full discharge. warm and no ac.
 
This has already been answered correctly by @Rocky_H.

The loss is substantial. It depends on many factors, many of which can be reduced. But it cannot be eliminated.



You have a 77.8kWh battery with the LR. The Performance has an 82.1kWh battery (typically only 81kWh available at the current time).

This is extremely well documented for 2021 vehicles; there is no doubt about it. You can take that 77.8kWh number as gospel (for your initial capacity). Your battery shows 353 rated miles at a full charge, which confirms that your battery actually has that capacity (this number WILL go down with time, and directly shows your capacity loss).



It's actually very well publicized in this forum, and we've taken great efforts to document it in the stickies for prospective owners. But certainly it is not well presented by Tesla.



One reason it is sort of acceptable, from a range perspective: These idle losses only add up in daily driving, when you're spending a great deal of time in park, and access to charging is frequent. They of course cost money, in energy, but they do not actually affect your range.

Take a road trip, and THEN take a look at the available energy. In that case, you'll find (when your car is new), that you have ~95.5% of that total energy (total energy 77.8kWh for you at the moment). So you'll see about 73.5 to 74kWh from 100% to 0% (with the remaining 4.5% of your energy, which you can use (it was used in the EPA test) but is not recommended, since you'll likely get stuck on the side of the road, being below 0%)

Your full charge energy is 353 rated miles, which is 77.8kWh; there is definitely nothing wrong with your battery. Check the stickies for more info.

I'd expect on a typical road trip you'd get about 250 miles or so per full charge at 70-80mph freeway speeds. If you are driving much more slowly (50mph max speed), you might well see in excess of 300 miles. To get 353 miles of range from 100% to 0%, you MUST drive continuously, and you must see about 210Wh/mi consumption. If you get 240Wh/mi consumption, your range will be about 310 miles.

If you drive at 20mph continuously (no stopping or starting) without any climate control use, I'd expect you'd see in excess of 500 miles of range. The record is over 600 miles for a RWD LR (with various other differences from the vehicles available today). Obviously that is never going to happen in normal use.



This doesn't exactly add up, but we'd have to know the exact distance traveled, and we'd need to know how much energy your car lost while sitting, when you were hiking. It actually seems like it might have been substantial - I estimate 5kWh (were you using Sentry mode at that time?). Did you spend any time sitting at the trailhead with the heat or the AC on? You basically have to check the % when you park, and when you get back to the car (and it's better to use rated miles since you'll get better resolution). Obviously all the % numbers have to be exactly correct to do these calculations accurately but they are quite deterministic (within about 1%) - as long as you remove all the losses when in park.

If you need further explanation, we're happy to explain here. You mostly seem upset, which I understand, but we're here to help describe what is actually happening with your car, and what to expect.

Really appreciate your explanation. What are "stickies" where I would find more info?
The big issue for me is how far can I drive on longer trips, and is my battery only capable of 63 kWh of charge? As an experiment, I will drive 100 miles rt in one day after a full charge and report back. My 130 mile hiking round trip was in one day. We hiked for about 3 hours. The weather was pleasant, shorts weather, so likely in the 60s or 70s. Let me do the 100 mile rt experiment to get more data.
 
What are "stickies" where I would find more info?

You are in one of them. One of the others is the “constants” sticky, though I have not updated it with 2021 data because it was in flux (I think the last update finally made it “correct”). But gives an idea of how it works.

The easiest way to think of it, very simple: each rated mile on your display contains a fixed, constant amount of energy that never changes over the life of your vehicle (once it is finalized for a given trim) and it is the same for every owner (of that particular trim - it is different for different trims), no matter how much the battery has decayed.

% does not work this way (that will be a variable slightly decreasing (up to maybe 20%) amount of energy per % over the life of your vehicle).

As an experiment, I will drive 100 miles rt in one day after a full charge and report back.

If you do this, be sure to take a picture of your screen for each leg - BOTH when you park and before you start driving. For every leg, every single stop where you shift to park. And set display to miles (distance display). And capture the trip meter in each picture. Need to capture rated miles (not %) in every picture along with trip meter (“since x:xx” NOT “since last charge”).
 
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Really appreciate your explanation. What are "stickies" where I would find more info?
The big issue for me is how far can I drive on longer trips, and is my battery only capable of 63 kWh of charge? As an experiment, I will drive 100 miles rt in one day after a full charge and report back. My 130 mile hiking round trip was in one day. We hiked for about 3 hours. The weather was pleasant, shorts weather, so likely in the 60s or 70s. Let me do the 100 mile rt experiment to get more data.
The more documentable data(ie pictures) the better; otherwise, people are left guessing.
 
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You are in one of them. One of the others is the “constants” sticky, though I have not updated it with 2021 data because it was in flux (I think the last update finally made it “correct”). But gives an idea of how it works.

The easiest way to think of it, very simple: each rated mile on your display contains a fixed, constant amount of energy that never changes over the life of your vehicle (once it is finalized for a given trim) and it is the same for every owner (of that particular trim - it is different for different trims), no matter how much the battery has decayed.

% does not work this way (that will be a variable slightly decreasing (up to maybe 20%) amount of energy per % over the life of your vehicle).



If you do this, be sure to take a picture of your screen for each leg - BOTH when you park and before you start driving. For every leg, every single stop where you shift to park. And set display to miles (distance display). And capture the trip meter in each picture. Need to capture rated miles (not %) in every picture along with trip meter (“since x:xx” NOT “since last charge”).

When you say miles instead of %, do you mean on the top of the screen the battery display which can toggle between range remaining and percentage of battery left, or the Trip A or B trip meter lower on the screen?
 
When you say miles instead of %, do you mean on the top of the screen the battery display which can toggle between range remaining and percentage of battery left, or the Trip A or B trip meter lower on the screen?

I mean the rated range display on the top of the screen (the battery display). Again, miles are preferred because they are known units of energy, while each % is not known (though it effectively is known for your vehicle right now based on your 100% = 353 rated miles report - but this relationship could change at any time). Not to mention the resolution difference of a factor of ~3.5.

By the way, this is another sticky with extensive info on the battery in your car, unfortunately it is quite long - but just a few caveats:
1) Lot of discussion of European batteries there - this is not relevant to the US vehicle, which only gets great Panasonic batteries with no top lock.
2) Be careful to distinguish between discussions of Performance & LR vehicles.
3) That being said, plenty of screen captures of data and constant calculations which are unassailable. 77.8kWh battery shows 353 rated miles (now) for the US LR non-P vehicle, and it charges to 77.8kWh. (Unlike the European vehicle.). You can see how this changed over time, but it is final now and will not change (of course it will go down as your battery degrades but the energy will reduce in the same proportion).

MASTER THREAD: 2021 Model 3 - Charge data, battery discussion etc
 
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I mean the rated range display on the top of the screen (the battery display). Again, miles are preferred because they are known units of energy, while each % is not known (though it effectively is known for your vehicle right now based on your 100% = 353 rated miles report - but this relationship could change at any time). Not to mention the resolution difference of a factor of ~3.5.

By the way, this is another sticky with extensive info on the battery in your car, unfortunately it is quite long - but just a few caveats:
1) Lot of discussion of European batteries there - this is not relevant to the US vehicle, which only gets great Panasonic batteries with no top lock.
2) Be careful to distinguish between discussions of Performance & LR vehicles.
3) That being said, plenty of screen captures of data and constant calculations which are unassailable. 77.8kWh battery shows 353 rated miles (now) for the US LR non-P vehicle, and it charges to 77.8kWh. (Unlike the European vehicle.). You can see how this changed over time, but it is final now and will not change (of course it will go down as your battery degrades but the energy will reduce in the same proportion).

MASTER THREAD: 2021 Model 3 - Charge data, battery discussion etc
Will do, and thanks for the link.
 
Hello everyone. Got the latest update last night (2021 4.3) and think the range number changed in the car. When I first got my p3, it used to top out at just over 300 miles. Most recently, it was around 290. Now it won't go above 275. Anyone else experience this? Any ideas?
 
Hello everyone. Got the latest update last night (2021 4.3) and think the range number changed in the car. When I first got my p3, it used to top out at just over 300 miles. Most recently, it was around 290. Now it won't go above 275. Anyone else experience this? Any ideas?

teslas have a habit to get degradation when updates hit. very odd and noone knows why.
How old is your car and how many km you done?

300-290 mile drop is usually happening around 25k km.
 
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Hello everyone. Got the latest update last night (2021 4.3) and think the range number changed in the car. When I first got my p3, it used to top out at just over 300 miles. Most recently, it was around 290. Now it won't go above 275. Anyone else experience this? Any ideas?

Provide a picture of what you are seeing.

(Info elsewhere suggests that this update will result in 315 rated miles at 100% for a 2021 Performance with a battery capacity in excess of about 80.6kWh.)
 
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Hello everyone. Got the latest update last night (2021 4.3) and think the range number changed in the car. When I first got my p3, it used to top out at just over 300 miles. Most recently, it was around 290. Now it won't go above 275. Anyone else experience this? Any ideas?

So, what model year is your M3P ?

I have a ’21 refresh, I dont usually charge full but i can se the range I would se if I charged full in SMT(Scan My Tesla).
My M3P had 499-500km/about 310 miles on the screen with full battery from I got it until thursday when I did get the 2021.4.3 then the numbers increased to 508km in SMT. Have not charged full but all SOCs so far show ”range on screen/SOC” =508km so far.

It may be possible that the numbers change to other values for other M3, but a slight guess is that Tesla dont lower the range seen on the screen by 5% just like that ? Might produce som :( instead of :) for no reason(real range wont change).

You might want to look at the energy app, and use wh/km or wh/mile and multiply it with the range on the same screen(use the ”normal range” choise). Then divide the sum with state of charge(use % / 100, i.e 70% = 0.70). Do this with a state of charge not lower than 50%.
The result is the actual battery capacity your BMS think you have, in Wh(divide by 1000 to get kWh).
If you have an older M3P, your battery probably was around 77.8kwh when it was new. If your result is about 70kwh, then you have about 10% loss and also have lost about 10% of the range. Your values indicates the BMS think you lost about 8%.

You might want to look at the thread ”How I recovered half of my batterys lost capacity”. If you did loose much range in a short period, there might be a good idea to help the BMS with the calculation of the battery capacity. Yor dont really recover real range but you get the BMS on track with the real battewry capacity.
 
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