First off, you seem to be implying that you're charging to 100% on a regular basis. This is inadvisable, at least on Teslas with the Panasonic NCA (nickel, cobalt, aluminum oxide) batteries, which Tesla was using on all US-made Model 3s until fairly recently. A bit under a year ago, Tesla
began offering Model 3s with Chinese-made LFP (lithium iron phosphate) batteries instead, and these can reportedly be regularly charged to 100% without problems. (If I understand correctly, all SR+ Model 3s made in China have always used the LFP batteries.) If you've got an LFP battery, then charging to 100% should be OK; but if you have an NCA battery, you should charge to 80-90% on a daily basis and reserve 100% charges for rare occasions when you need that much charge, like road trips every few months or the procedure I'm about to describe....
241/265 = .909, so you're looking at 9.1% degradation in a year. That's a bit on the high side, although
some degradation is expected in the first year -- maybe 3-5%.
This type of issue is often a result of battery management system (BMS) calculations based on incomplete data, rather than actual battery problems. This can often happen if you tend to favor shallow charge/discharge cycles -- say, charging to 90%, driving to 60%, and charging back to 90%. This type of usage is better for the battery than frequent deep discharges, but the BMS tends to get confused by it and mis-reports the range as being too low. If this is happening, then the fix is to charge to 100%, do a deep discharge (to 10% or lower), and then another full (100%) charge. This should give the BMS more data, and you should see your estimated range recover, at least partly. I've seen this effect myself on my own car. Sometimes it takes another charge or two after the initial deep discharge to see the range recover, in my experience. Since this type of charge/discharge cycle is unhealthy for the battery, you shouldn't do it very often. I've only done it twice on my 3-year-old Model 3.
Note that, if I'm right about the cause of your 9.1% "degradation," it's not
real battery degradation, just a reporting issue. Thus, although I've said the full-charge/deep-discharge procedure can "fix" the problem, the problem isn't "real," in the sense that the batteries are probably fine. Thus, it might be worth just leaving it as-is, at least until you actually need to do a relatively deep discharge anyway (like on a road trip).