You guys with high capacity loss can just precisely measure your charging time from 10% to 90% (and measure exactly how many miles are added), and it will tell you your capacity. (You'll need to add the buffer back in of course.) Or you can just use your rated miles at 100%, which also tells you your capacity to very high accuracy (I haven't ever seen a significant error - meaning off by more than 3-4 miles - though presumably they occasionally happen).
You need:
1) Warm battery, warm conditions, so no power to warming the battery
2) Voltage of charging apparatus when under load.
3) Current draw during the charge.
4) Exact time of the charge (to nearest minute).
5) Exact starting rated miles and exact ending rated miles
All of this data has to be from the car, of course; TeslaFi is not useful for this.
Then you can use the known efficiency of the charger (about 89% at 240V/32A with no charge taper, and make adjustments to other charging rates using a ~250W overhead to make the adjustment - a trivial calculation) to calculate how much useful energy is available in your battery. 10% to 90% seems like a good range to use.
And you can compare to others, if you'd like.
In the end it's going to tell you what you already know - your rated miles being lower means your useful capacity is lower. Whether that can be improved by charging to a high level to let some rebalancing take place, who knows - but based on what I read here and my own experience, any rebalancing will only have a very small effect - perhaps 1-2 miles.