My issue is that the rear lid does not open fully. Just high enough that if I'm distracted by whatever I'm putting in or getting out of the trunk, I bang my head. It's a 2014 Model S. There are 8 pages in this thread and I haven't scrolled though them all, so not sure it others have had this problem.
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Rear trunk won't open
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Vinc
Member
That sounds like a different thing. Like the struts don't have enough pressure and might need replacing.
Cirrus MS100D
Member
You know you can set the height of the auto lift gate, right?
When it’s open, manually open/close to the desired height, then press AND HOLD the open/close putt on on the trunk lid.
I have ours set to be about 4” lower than fully open, otherwise it runs the risk of the garage door hitting it if somebody accidentally opens or closes the garage while the trunk is open.
When it’s open, manually open/close to the desired height, then press AND HOLD the open/close putt on on the trunk lid.
I have ours set to be about 4” lower than fully open, otherwise it runs the risk of the garage door hitting it if somebody accidentally opens or closes the garage while the trunk is open.
Hello - first post, long time lurker.
So it's my turn to suffer this (my other sufferings will be shared on relevant posts). It happened on my Sept 2015 Model S last week. A few days before the rear boot (trunk) seized up entirely the boot had been tempermental, sometimes not closing or opening without me doing so manually, but it did always close or open and revert to being okay.
Until it wasn't okay.
Usual symptoms - boot locked shut but car/app thinks it's open. I tried hard resetting, manual emergency cord, locking/unlocking car etc all to no avail. I left it overnight on Thursday because I couldn't face the stress of trying to arrange an appointment for a SC through the app. Woke up Friday, and lo and behold the boot magically opened on the first time.
Then I had a stupid 10 seconds, where I thought "Well, now that it's open, let's play with the latch to see if it moves ok before I close it again".
Cue me manually fiddling with the lock and pressing the latch into the locked position, with the boot open... guess what happens next? Yep - it won't unlock, so now the boot is permanently open.
Knowing it would take about 6 weeks to get an appointment through the app (current waiting time in UK), and that there're no phone numbers to call the SCs anymore, I took a punt and drove to the nearest one (just over an hour) with the boot ajar. They thankfully had the part required, and could fit me in.
Total cost £179.40 ($250ish) (out of warranty on mileage) and about an hour. Ironically my stupid moment probably saved me considerable money as the boot was open so they didn't have any issue accessing the broken part.
Thanks to this thread, I at least was able to lock the car overnight Thursday, and learnt not to pull too hard on the emergency cable and snap it!
So it's my turn to suffer this (my other sufferings will be shared on relevant posts). It happened on my Sept 2015 Model S last week. A few days before the rear boot (trunk) seized up entirely the boot had been tempermental, sometimes not closing or opening without me doing so manually, but it did always close or open and revert to being okay.
Until it wasn't okay.
Usual symptoms - boot locked shut but car/app thinks it's open. I tried hard resetting, manual emergency cord, locking/unlocking car etc all to no avail. I left it overnight on Thursday because I couldn't face the stress of trying to arrange an appointment for a SC through the app. Woke up Friday, and lo and behold the boot magically opened on the first time.
Then I had a stupid 10 seconds, where I thought "Well, now that it's open, let's play with the latch to see if it moves ok before I close it again".
Cue me manually fiddling with the lock and pressing the latch into the locked position, with the boot open... guess what happens next? Yep - it won't unlock, so now the boot is permanently open.
Knowing it would take about 6 weeks to get an appointment through the app (current waiting time in UK), and that there're no phone numbers to call the SCs anymore, I took a punt and drove to the nearest one (just over an hour) with the boot ajar. They thankfully had the part required, and could fit me in.
Total cost £179.40 ($250ish) (out of warranty on mileage) and about an hour. Ironically my stupid moment probably saved me considerable money as the boot was open so they didn't have any issue accessing the broken part.
Thanks to this thread, I at least was able to lock the car overnight Thursday, and learnt not to pull too hard on the emergency cable and snap it!
Yeah, unfortunately the trick didn't fix for ever. However, I have service appointment booked in, and have been opening in auto and closing manually. Occasionally i forget or kids try and close in auto, sometimes it works, sometimes it gets stuck in limbo *(3 beeps, wont move) however have left the carpet covering the electrical connections un fastened so that I can reach in and plug and unplug to release without much fuss (I can do it without looking now). Service wait time was ~1 month (Sydney Australia)
goRt
Active Member
Yeah I've joined the club MSP100D 28k miles boot not open but shows open. I have a ranger coming in a week to fix my account where I'm unable to buy upgrades which is lucky, I've updated the call but am betting they don't have the parts.
Now how to get my mountain bike out through the side doors!
Now how to get my mountain bike out through the side doors!
Ouch. Sorry.
Try it occasionally. If it opens, don’t let it close! The repair is easy if it’s open.
the tech I talked to said he can usually pull the plastic back enough to release it. The bike will make it difficult. Can you extract the bike in pieces?
goRt
Active Member
Yes, I've got the not too muddy bike out, I'll reserve trying to open until the ranger's been in contact and I know they have the parts.
Identical to mine which stopped opening last week (2015 Model S in the UK). I had the MMU fail 2 weeks ago as well - related? That appears to be the eMMC memory chip failure. I can't get anything done until they lift the pox lock-down but Edinburgh SC say they have the parts to replace the MMU and upgrade to 4G/LTE. The trunk worked fine in the meantime.
I followed the above excellent video (apart from the irritating music) and I've had the Hella actuator off the car (part number 6NW 009 424-79). It appears to work normally with 12V applied to the motor forwards and backwards, pulling about 2.3A. The trunk opens and closes normally (electrically both ways) aside from the automatic pulling closed.
Not sure what to do next!
MW
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had this happen to me - frustrating as really can't park the car anywhere as it won't lock. Took mobile a week to send someone as they kept rescheduling but the good news is they were able to fix this via mobile during the coronavirus pandemic. Unfortunately, tesla service attention to detail is still lacking and despite me telling them the emergency knob broke they didn't replace it. ANd they left the cover of the emergency latch still off leaving an unsightly hole (so I had to pop it back on).
I figure it's important to have the knob emergency release in case of accident etc?
I figure it's important to have the knob emergency release in case of accident etc?
Grrr. Yesterday, this happened to me (again...see post #2 in this thread from four years ago...same car in case anyone's wondering). Made an appointment for mobile service to come deal with it. Unlike four years ago, the mechanism froze up / broke in my garage (not on the road), and the boot was empty (not full of groceries). Also, this time I was somehow able to get the latch to open so I'm just going to leave the liftgate up until mobile service arrives...that way they won't have to break the interior trim to get to the mechanism.
Bruce.
Bruce.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Got bit by this today, 2 hours from home at the new Manteca supercharger!
Drive home was a bummer with no TACC or autosteer.
Mobile service two weeks out. Good thing I’m rarely driving these days...
Drive home was a bummer with no TACC or autosteer.
Mobile service two weeks out. Good thing I’m rarely driving these days...
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Service center called this morning, out of warranty estimate of $329 parts and labor. Not bad.
They requested I bring it in to the service center - said they would attempt it as a mobile service but if I was willing they'd rather do it in the SC to ensure success and having all of the right tools on hand. Since it's only 40 minutes away I agreed.
PismoPat
Member
Moderator note: This post plus the two immediately following were merged from another thread.
After intermittently only opening a foot a couple of times, the hatchback door finally didn't open, but it showed as open on the center council of my 2017 75D. I called Tesla Service and went through all of the rebooting / turning off options, pushing down on the cover, pulling up, trying manual open, trying the emergency open (about as Mickey Mouse as you can get when it comes to an emergency open apparatus). Nothing worked. The car saw the hatch as open, but it was actually closed, except for the last 1/4 inch. Therefore it would bong when you put it in D.
On the Memorial Day weekend, I made an appt at the Santa Barbara Service Center for the Wednesday after the holiday. I talked to the SC by phone and told them I'd have to drive 70 miles with constant bonging, but no appt with the Rangers was available till the following week.
Santa Barbara SC really came through because, a couple of hours later, they called and said they figured a way to get a Ranger out the next day with the parts necessary to replace the latch and motor, saving me lots of driving with bonging LOL.
Kudos to Santa Barbara SC. I've had nothing but excellent service there at every turn. The Rangers who work out of SB are also great.
After intermittently only opening a foot a couple of times, the hatchback door finally didn't open, but it showed as open on the center council of my 2017 75D. I called Tesla Service and went through all of the rebooting / turning off options, pushing down on the cover, pulling up, trying manual open, trying the emergency open (about as Mickey Mouse as you can get when it comes to an emergency open apparatus). Nothing worked. The car saw the hatch as open, but it was actually closed, except for the last 1/4 inch. Therefore it would bong when you put it in D.
On the Memorial Day weekend, I made an appt at the Santa Barbara Service Center for the Wednesday after the holiday. I talked to the SC by phone and told them I'd have to drive 70 miles with constant bonging, but no appt with the Rangers was available till the following week.
Santa Barbara SC really came through because, a couple of hours later, they called and said they figured a way to get a Ranger out the next day with the parts necessary to replace the latch and motor, saving me lots of driving with bonging LOL.
Kudos to Santa Barbara SC. I've had nothing but excellent service there at every turn. The Rangers who work out of SB are also great.
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ucmndd
Well-Known Member
There's a 9 page tread for that, although not in the "driving dynamics" section.
Rear trunk won't open
Rear trunk won't open
PismoPat
Member
Mobile service is coming to do mine on Friday. My estimate is just over $500 parts and labor. I'm under extended warranty so it doesn't matter much to me one way or the other, but I'll report back on what they ended up doing.
Bruce.
So, the mobile tech ended up replacing the cinching actuator and cable and the liftgate latch. Out of warranty would have been $511, but I only had to do the deductible for the extended service agreement / extended warranty ($200). The tech was very happy that I was able to get the liftgate up before he arrived (it adds about an hour to the repair if the liftgate is stuck down). He told me a story about going to fix a 2012 Model S with the same problem...the owner had the liftgate up and then closed it to demonstrate the problem, of course it got stuck in the down position ("Noooooo...").
Anyways, all systems operational once again.
Bruce.
Cirrus MS100D
Member
It stinks it happened to you again. Did the tech note any changes in the design or manufacturer of the equipment? While we haven't had to use our RFS in the last 2+ months due to COVID-19, I'm assuming the kids will SOMEDAY go back to school, and I'd hate for them to get stuck back there a second time should our actuator fail again.So, the mobile tech ended up replacing the cinching actuator and cable and the liftgate latch. Out of warranty would have been $511, but I only had to do the deductible for the extended service agreement / extended warranty ($200). The tech was very happy that I was able to get the liftgate up before he arrived (it adds about an hour to the repair if the liftgate is stuck down). He told me a story about going to fix a 2012 Model S with the same problem...the owner had the liftgate up and then closed it to demonstrate the problem, of course it got stuck in the down position ("Noooooo...").
Anyways, all systems operational once again.
Bruce.
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