not sure they could make it smaller. Fits in my glovebox, so I'm happy.
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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach
- Thread starter FalconFour
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Hopefully, one day in the future, Canada begins billing in kWh instead of minutes. It's the only fair pricing model.
PetroCan here in Vancouver is $0.43/minute for 350kW. I peaked out at 123kW. Wondering if PetroCan has a 150kW limit. Will be testing other stations such as Electrify Canada, BC Hydro and other PetroCan charging stations in BC. Happy so far.
Just so I can figure out the timeline a little better, what day did you receive the order email from Tesla's site saying your account had purchased the CCS adapter? I ordered via Harumio on Friday, paid the invoice on Saturday and received the Tesla email on Sunday, but have heard nothing since then - I assume the adapter is still being sent to Harumio.
I'm on the exact same timeline as you (order confirmation received from Tesla Korea 28 April, shipment notice from Harumio today, 4 May).
I chose FedEx as my delivery service. Delivery date still pending.
As far as I know measurement Canada should begin the transition in a few months. We’ll see.
Interesting. Perhaps you should start a thread. We could all share the limit with the CCS combo and the cost. 100kW or a little faster makes me happy too.
I used Delivered. Ordered from Tesla on the 28th (PM EST). Got notification from Delivered that it arrived on May 3rd AM. I filled out the requested information and got a notification that it was sent by FedEx that evening. We'll see when it arrives to my place.
Cost was ~$236 for the adapter, $40 for shipping (there were cheaper shipping options available, but I wanted to use FedEx)
Cost was ~$236 for the adapter, $40 for shipping (there were cheaper shipping options available, but I wanted to use FedEx)
all right fine, with all the hype and present availability, I may as well get a real Tesla Korea adapter myself too 
With apologies to Harumio, I can stand a little uncertainty and paper-shuffling in order to save a few bucks. I'm going the Delivered route on the frugal. Harumio is definitely the easier route, though! Getting the address right, getting the payment to go through, etc etc, was a bit of a hassle, but my order's in.
On a note related to the thread, I've found a provider that can make machine-crimped wires in bulk... so I'm feeling out the idea of ordering more Bundles of Wires with 66% of the work already completed - but at a significantly higher cost to me per-item (quoted was $30 per bundle - just the wires alone, still needing to do resistor & shrink tube soldering). So, there is a path to sustainability in building these... it just involves raising the price a bit. I'm not quite there yet though - with the stall in ECU availability, it might not be hot enough yet. We'll see! (stuffs that opportunity in my back pocket)
With apologies to Harumio, I can stand a little uncertainty and paper-shuffling in order to save a few bucks. I'm going the Delivered route on the frugal. Harumio is definitely the easier route, though! Getting the address right, getting the payment to go through, etc etc, was a bit of a hassle, but my order's in.
On a note related to the thread, I've found a provider that can make machine-crimped wires in bulk... so I'm feeling out the idea of ordering more Bundles of Wires with 66% of the work already completed - but at a significantly higher cost to me per-item (quoted was $30 per bundle - just the wires alone, still needing to do resistor & shrink tube soldering). So, there is a path to sustainability in building these... it just involves raising the price a bit. I'm not quite there yet though - with the stall in ECU availability, it might not be hot enough yet. We'll see! (stuffs that opportunity in my back pocket)
This thread is starting to look very little like what is described in the thread title, and instead, something else entirely......
(note that the above statement is actually from me as a moderator, while this one below this is from me as a regular poster)
The other thing I find extremely disappointing is people trying to flip these adapters they are buying, here in the marketplace. I guess I should have expected it, but I find it very very "icky", especially with the markup people are asking for.
(note that the above statement is actually from me as a moderator, while this one below this is from me as a regular poster)
The other thing I find extremely disappointing is people trying to flip these adapters they are buying, here in the marketplace. I guess I should have expected it, but I find it very very "icky", especially with the markup people are asking for.
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Agreed! The discussion of the CCS adapter itself belongs here: CCS Adapter for North America - there's a lot of discussion of the adapter and such in that thread. The two are complementary: that thread for "what the adapter does and how to get it", and this thread for "how to make your car compatible". Though, even the latter has a more laser-focused point: how to make OLDER cars compatible But the newer 3's (Gen4) are welcome along for the ride under the DIY umbrella.
The discussion of CCS itself (prices, merit, speed, etc), I'm not so sure where - but shouldn't become a primary (page-long-at-a-time) point anywhere without its own thread imho.
As to the scalping, aside from being the most morally bankrupt thing I've witnessed in the Tesla community, uh... at least it informs me that there's some headroom for affording those machine-built wire bundles, to still pay for the time of soldering & everything else involved, and keep them available to anyone that wants one.
But the newer 3's (Gen4) are welcome along for the ride under the DIY umbrella.The discussion of CCS itself (prices, merit, speed, etc), I'm not so sure where - but shouldn't become a primary (page-long-at-a-time) point anywhere without its own thread imho.
As to the scalping, aside from being the most morally bankrupt thing I've witnessed in the Tesla community, uh... at least it informs me that there's some headroom for affording those machine-built wire bundles, to still pay for the time of soldering & everything else involved, and keep them available to anyone that wants one.
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Jeremy3292
Active Member
Yeah, especially when there are multiple threads on here about how to order directly (well, mostly) from Korea. Capitalism....woo?
I received mine today, used Delivered. Just need to get my hands on that 00-B board now.all right fine, with all the hype and present availability, I may as well get a real Tesla Korea adapter myself too
With apologies to Harumio, I can stand a little uncertainty and paper-shuffling in order to save a few bucks. I'm going the Delivered route on the frugal. Harumio is definitely the easier route, though! Getting the address right, getting the payment to go through, etc etc, was a bit of a hassle, but my order's in.
On a note related to the thread, I've found a provider that can make machine-crimped wires in bulk... so I'm feeling out the idea of ordering more Bundles of Wires with 66% of the work already completed - but at a significantly higher cost to me per-item (quoted was $30 per bundle - just the wires alone, still needing to do resistor & shrink tube soldering). So, there is a path to sustainability in building these... it just involves raising the price a bit. I'm not quite there yet though - with the stall in ECU availability, it might not be hot enough yet. We'll see! (stuffs that opportunity in my back pocket)
@FalconFour how do I fully push the pin and wires into the female side of the connector. Is it ok if a little bit of the pin is showing?
Pins definitely need to be fully pushed in - and it can be a trouble to do so. Find something rigid and thin to push down the side of the wire to push the crimp in until it "clicks" (there's almost always a slightly audible click when it locks).
The movable bar across the side of the terminal block is a TPA lock - Terminal Position Assurance. It will only press fully into the lock position if all the terminals are properly inserted. (of course, it'll also prevent you from inserting terminals if it's locked)
Conveniently, one of the male pins of one of the wires actually makes for a great "click-into-place" tool for all the others. So if you just save one wire's pin side to use as a pusher, it works pretty well. Often, and with careful motions, I can get that last pin to click into its connector without assistance.
I was going to post a bit of a more step by step tutorial, but still waiting on my 00-B. I used a think clamp of my iFixit kit to push them in carefully. Definitely not the most straightforward if you've never used those types of automotive connectors before. The first time I did a connector like that (for a HUD), I broke one of them because I couldn't get the wires out again
Little update. The current name-of-the-game is "getting the ECU", seems to be the hardest part. I've had a couple people now mention (directly and through this thread) that their experience asking for the ECU has been sloppy, hit-or-miss, different SCs say different things. Not sure why that's the case. But I can tell they're getting hard to find.
Of particular note, a few people have mentioned that their SC straight-up refuses to sell one to them, because "it's restricted", or "it's high voltage". Well, no. The ECU is entirely a low-voltage part (otherwise it'd have bright orange cables around it, and an HV warning sign on it - these are regulations Tesla has to stick to ). No part of this project involves touching HV or removing/crossing any "orange boundaries".
But more importantly: the part isn't restricted. You can see this for yourself - go to Parts Catalog and sign-in with your regular ole' Tesla account, click "catalogs", "vehicles", "Model 3", then navigate to the "44 - High Voltage System" section, and "4401 - Charge System Inlet". That will lead you to a page with only one selection: "Charge Port". Click the image. That's the catalog page. Note item 2:
See how it says "Over-the-Counter (No VIN)"? Yeah. Show this to them, lol. It's their own catalog page.
Hopefully this doesn't get worse. It's oddly now almost more difficult to get the ECU than it is to get the adapter
Of particular note, a few people have mentioned that their SC straight-up refuses to sell one to them, because "it's restricted", or "it's high voltage". Well, no. The ECU is entirely a low-voltage part (otherwise it'd have bright orange cables around it, and an HV warning sign on it - these are regulations Tesla has to stick to
). No part of this project involves touching HV or removing/crossing any "orange boundaries".But more importantly: the part isn't restricted. You can see this for yourself - go to Parts Catalog and sign-in with your regular ole' Tesla account, click "catalogs", "vehicles", "Model 3", then navigate to the "44 - High Voltage System" section, and "4401 - Charge System Inlet". That will lead you to a page with only one selection: "Charge Port". Click the image. That's the catalog page. Note item 2:
See how it says "Over-the-Counter (No VIN)"? Yeah. Show this to them, lol. It's their own catalog page.
Hopefully this doesn't get worse. It's oddly now almost more difficult to get the ECU than it is to get the adapter
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