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Can’t you get any of that from the service webpage? Most likely not, but it’s worth a shot.
No I wish. They keep all the higher diagnostic info hidden even if you purchased the toolbox 3 software. They are supposed to give you the battery shipping tool(they don't) and tech articals on tech issues in that same software but they hide them so they are inaccessible unless you can backdoor a way to find it which is a needle in a haystack. Pretty crappy really. 😣
 
I found this, rummaging through my old files, but this is for a Model 3 w/o heat pump. I’ll see if I can send you the whole thing.
HVIL Model 3.png
 
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BCH said they aren't willing to share their source for triple-lip seals, in fear of running out or buying them all and jacking up the price.
They rebuild enough of them that they have 2 extra cleaned stators on the shelf to reduce rebuild time by eliminating the need to wait for shipping both ways on the stators.

howardc64 has an extensive write-up on seal types and sources at Tesla LDU - Parts

There's also testing of different seals going on by DIY'ers at Tesla Large Drive Unit (LDU) Motor Teardown and maintenance - Page 11 - openinverter forum

I asked about warranty and I'll update when BCH responds.

I believe all tan color triple lip PTFE seals I’ve ever seen from ukrain rebuilder/seller and QC Charge are all Ceimin from AliExpress. I have in hand and every single seal detail is identical. Ukraine guys even laser itch Tesla logo on them.

There is also the other half of the equation which is shaft surface condition. Likely poorer surface on the reman LDUs etc. I made a flow chart for decisions and seal sourcing and longevity data. All on the above linked website.
 
I believe all tan color triple lip PTFE seals I’ve ever seen from ukrain rebuilder/seller and QC Charge are all Ceimin from AliExpress. I have in hand and every single seal detail is identical. Ukraine guys even laser itch Tesla logo on them.

There is also the other half of the equation which is shaft surface condition. Likely poorer surface on the reman LDUs etc. I made a flow chart for decisions and seal sourcing and longevity data. All on the above linked website.
I find it hard to believe there is no SKF equivalent that can be ordered locally. I used to repair servo motors and we would just measure it, get the specs, and call a supplier and order what we needed. What is so special about this seal that it has to come from Ukrainian?

EDIT:
I just read the info at the LDU forum links. Excellent information and great research! Thanx
 
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I find it hard to believe there is no SKF equivalent that can be ordered locally. I used to repair servo motors and we would just measure it, get the specs, and call a supplier and order what we needed. What is so special about this seal that it has to come from Ukrainian?

EDIT:
I just read the info at the LDU forum links. Excellent information and great research! Thanx

SKF does have variety of PTFE seals as does Parker and Saint-Gobain (all big nmajor seal producers). PTFE seals to all fall under their custom division so need to make contact and can't just order. Making contact is where DIYer gets blocked. SKF require business email for contact, Saint-Gobain sent me a rejection email stating "proprietary" application. After engaging 5-10 PTFE seal makers large and small. It seems Tesla and their tier 1 supplier engaged many PTFE seal makers repeatedly over the years.


There is nothing special about the Ukraine PTFE seal. I believe it is the Ceimin (a small PTFE seal maker in China, PTFE seals can be made in small quantities easily) from Aliexpress and the pictures show the Ukraine guys likely laser itched Tesla logo on them along with printing a packaging sticker that looks like Tesla part. I have the Ceimin seal and have examined closely and measured it in detail. It appears the few seal sources from Tesla part distributors are all sourcing this exact same seal.

There is a single lip PTFE seal designed in Germany by a member on openinverter.org. I personally think its the best option when dealing with unknown shaft surface condition such as a reman LDU. The design is quite robust compared to Tesla and Ceimin seals design on how the seal pressure is applied. Anyway, put together LDU website along with seal decision PDF and all the sources. Seal is only 1/2 of the equation. Shaft surface is the other 1/2.


In general, LDU design margins are really low in a couple of area (coolant seal, inverter bolt holes) Its easy for remans extend beyond these design margins and not bring it back to original spec. Tesla reman results seems quite poor. I've heard from Tesla SC techs the reman don't last very long (matching the communities statistical observations) and unfortunately, there are probably no new LDUs installed by Tesla for quite awhile now. All remans seems to comes with poor seal, likely no shaft surface prep back to original new spec, and stripped inverter bolt holes without robotic assembly. All noted in above LDU website.
 
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I have just rebuilt a 2019 model 3 performance and have just powered the car up for the first time since the repair.
it was a front collision car with driver and passenger airbags, curtains and seatbelts deployed. all airbags were replaced for new ones and I sent my RCM to Ingineer to be reset.
once I put the car in drive the airbag light comes on and I get these 3 errors, RCM_a114, RCM_a013, and RCM_a004. does anyone know what these refer to as I am really unsure what the problem could be now!
Hi all, I do have exactly the same situation with my restored m3, just can not get rid of RCM_a114. Would be appreciated if someone could help me with that code.
 
Hey all, BCH has finished my motor rebuild, in the process they found the encoder plug had a corroded wire, and replaced the plug. They are trying to test drive it now but getting di_f072. I believe that's Rear motor disabled - ok to drive. That would be the same code it came into the shop with. Anyone know how we can clear that code? I'm rooted, if that helps.
 
I have searched for this so many different ways but can't seem to find the answer... I have seen Tesla's that were in accidents and had airbags deploy STILL ABLE TO DRIVE AND CHARGE. My 12v is fine, I replaced the lower pyro fuse (2017 model S located it on the bottom of the car near the front passenger wheel) I have removed all the airbags and seatbelt tensioners, and sent the SBS module in to Safety Restore... but I cant charge it (it's down to 13% and losing about 1% every other day) The charger wont even plug in. There's another pyro fuse next to the 12v is it possible that is what is keeping this from charging and driving? When I get the SBS back I am terrified some code from the MCU or maybe not having the front bumper on the car with the airbag crash triggers disconnected will cause the airbags to deploy again.... I'm running out of time and I've watched so many videos and searched so many forums....