Service says $22k for new battery on 2012 Model S

[rns-e]

Wouldn't it say reman or something similar if it were remanufactured?

That is a completly new 350V battery and $14,000 is better than $20,000

 

[Electric700]

TwistedGray, I am wondering if the previous owner investigated other options such as Gruber Motor (See: Services | Black Screen | Roadster Battery | Gruber Motors). They may have been able to fix the battery for less than $2,000.

 

[TwistedGray]

That can't be right unless it had a 100 kWh battery when new. With a 90 kWh battery, I would expect closer to 236 miles at 80%. The original 85 kWh battery would've been even less.

Aerodyne noted "ideal" vs "rated" but either way, I'll update once I have it charged.

I have been looking at my sunroof recently, not sure how it came off the track.

The glass is held on with only 4 screws.

Here is a link that might help with troubleshooting:

Probably range is set to Ideal, not Rated.

Pardon the poor perspective, and to not get off on a tangent...here's photo to show it off the rack. According to a third party that fixes these on a "somewhat regular" basis, and they said, "Now your drive cable is damaged probably and drive motor possibly." <---they have not seen or diagnosed anything. They just based this off what I told them happened and the associated sounds ("Did you hear clicking sound when you attempt to close/open roof?").

Why did they give a $6K discount?

See my speculation on the previous post.

That is a completly new 350V battery and $14,000 is better than $20,000

$0 is better than $14,000 : ) I didn't have to pay - previous owner did.

TwistedGray, I am wondering if the previous owner investigated other options such as Gruber Motor (See: Services | Black Screen | Roadster Battery | Gruber Motors). They may have been able to fix the battery for less than $2,000.

Doubtful...doubt if they even knew there were alternatives.

 

[BigNick]

Interesting that this is 1014116-00-B and it is identified as a “90” when the original 1014116-00-A was identified as an “85” pack. I didn’t recognize the part number at first but this would be the 350V pack, basically a 100 with only 14 modules instead of 16.
Should be right around 87.5 kWh when new.

 

[aerodyne]

Aerodyne noted "ideal" vs "rated" but either way, I'll update once I have it charged.



Pardon the poor perspective, and to not get off on a tangent...here's photo to show it off the rack. According to a third party that fixes these on a "somewhat regular" basis, and they said, "Now your drive cable is damaged probably and drive motor possibly." <---they have not seen or diagnosed anything. They just based this off what I told them happened and the associated sounds ("Did you hear clicking sound when you attempt to close/open roof?").
View attachment 644704



See my speculation on the previous post.



$0 is better than $14,000 : ) I didn't have to pay - previous owner did.



Doubtful...doubt if they even knew there were alternatives.

You have more problems than rails gone off of the track...the forward attachment has broken clean off.

In this position, 2 attachments, two screws each side should be clearly visible.

Don't trust the SvC to get it right. Please check out the Tesla EPC (Log in with your Tesla credentials) and become familiar with the parts.

Consider getting parts third party, or possibly third part repair. The Tesla Toolbox is needed to calibrate the sunroof.

A Tesla car cover is all weather and will keep the rain and bugs out, if you run out of garage space.

 

[rns-e]

Interesting that this is 1014116-00-B and it is identified as a “90” when the original 1014116-00-A was identified as an “85” pack. I didn’t recognize the part number at first but this would be the 350V pack, basically a 100 with only 14 modules instead of 16.
Should be right around 87.5 kWh when new.

I'm also interested to hear the capacity. I just recently got the 1014116-00-A through the 8 year warranty and Scan My Tesla says it's 85 kWh nominal

 

[howardc64]

TwistedGray, I am wondering if the previous owner investigated other options such as Gruber Motor (See: Services | Black Screen | Roadster Battery | Gruber Motors). They may have been able to fix the battery for less than $2,000.

Recently researched pack disassembly and Gruber pricing, $3600 remove/open/reseal pack, $900 to find+disable bad cell, $1900 to swap 1 module. Need to add transport to/from their site. No competition as of now but their custom enhanced part prices (door handle gear, window bracket cable sleeve) seems quite reasonable

Model S - Main Battery Pack Repair (Pricing) | Gruber Motors

Opening the sealed pack top nondestructively (sheet metal glued on with sealant to keep out moisture) seems time consuming. Destructive openings looked easier but can't reseal again. Gruber mentioned Tesla's refurb center just destroy the top and put on a new one (must be unavailable to 3rd party now?). For reference, Chevy bolt's pack top use rubber gasket instead of sealant for moisture control so easy for nondestructive top cover removal.

This is probably the prototype rebuild solution for all others to follow. Clearly biggest cost is in just open+reseal the pack. Here is a short clip, they have 3 guys working on nondestructive opening simultaneously.

Tesla Model S Main Battery Repair | Gruber Motors - YouTube

Here is what destructive opening looks like. Probably method used by module harvesters for 2ndary markets

Unprofessionals Guide to Opening a Tesla Battery Pack - YouTube

 

[aerodyne]

I'm also interested to hear the capacity. I just recently got the 1014116-00-A through the 8 year warranty and Scan My Tesla says it's 85 kWh nominal

That would imply that it is a new pack! Lucky You!

Does it SuC well over 100Kw?

 

[TwistedGray]

You have more problems than rails gone off of the track...the forward attachment has broken clean off.

In this position, 2 attachments, two screws each side should be clearly visible.

Don't trust the SvC to get it right. Please check out the Tesla EPC (Log in with your Tesla credentials) and become familiar with the parts.

Consider getting parts third party, or possibly third part repair. The Tesla Toolbox is needed to calibrate the sunroof.

A Tesla car cover is all weather and will keep the rain and bugs out, if you run out of garage space.

That's just a misinterpretation of the photo which is because of the perspective of the photo - MY bad! This is the back half of the sunroof where it is jammed in place. The front half of the sunroof is fine, and both brackets are fine...they've been otherwise cropped out of the photo.

And I agree with third party. I have a person lined up for Thursday, so if the service center asks me to pull my pants down, I'll just head up to the Bay on Thursday and have someone else do it.

Re: Garage - Yeah, the garage is motorcycle parking only : ) But yeah, I might just have to do that (re: Tesla car cover).

 

[TwistedGray]

Should be right around 87.5 kWh when new.

Which was 12,400ish miles ago : )

Thanks for the education...now if they only put in those few extra modules

 

[Boeingpilot]

If you want lower income people to purchase these older cars it is a problem. 22 thousand dollars is a huge chunk of change for the majority of people. Then you have the 8,000 dollar headlights. I realize that most people on here can drop 50 grand for a deposit on the Roadster and it doesn't hurt them at all. But someone purchases a used Tesla and finances it for 4 years. 2 years into the loan the battery warranty is up and at 3 years into the loan the battery craps out. So now you have have a family that has to make payments on a car and have to come up with 22,000 dollars and still have their loan payment. So how much of the 22,000 is actual battery cost and how much is it Tesla's markup.

Then they bought the wrong car

 

[ChrgdTeCHick]

Although the situation sucks I am glad you posted this for others to know. Personally I just sold my 2013 S a couple days ago because I was worried about the battery replacement. I was so torn to sell it, loved that car; knowing your story makes me feel so much better. I pick up my new Y on Saturday though!

 

[qdeathstar]

If you’re going to stand by that statement, no one should own a Tesla outside the warranty period.

I feel like this is a correct statement. I wouldn’t want to own a 5 year old tesla.

 

[dark cloud]

Plus they threw in a free 12V!

The part I like is the $76 labour charge

 

[dark cloud]

I feel like this is a correct statement. I wouldn’t want to own a 5 year old tesla.

Well I do and it feels fantastic.

 

[aerodyne]

Well I do and it feels fantastic.

And I look fantastic driving mine too...

 

[dark cloud]

Interesting that this is 1014116-00-B and it is identified as a “90” when the original 1014116-00-A was identified as an “85” pack. I didn’t recognize the part number at first but this would be the 350V pack, basically a 100 with only 14 modules instead of 16.
Should be right around 87.5 kWh when new.

So why can't Tesla just keep the other 2 modules in the "new" pack and charge us another $2000? (14000/14 modules is $1000 per module)

 

[jpvdheijn]

Well, if this is the risk on an out of warranty S and I presume that the costs might go down over the years I would defenatly think of paying for this when the time comes for my 2015 S. Just think, more range, better charging speed, FUSC, FUD, AP1 for relaxed highway driving and MCU2 keeping it up to date.

of course you would also need to take a look at the overall state of the cars suspension and other components but I guess this promotes the longevity of use of the model S.

 

[rns-e]

So why can't Tesla just keep the other 2 modules in the "new" pack and charge us another $2000? (14000/14 modules is $1000 per module)

Exactly!

 

[SO16]

Well I do and it feels fantastic.

Same here.

Even a battery replacement would be cheaper than taking the hit on new car depreciation. And my model S feels and looks (almost) as good as it did over 4 years ago.