destructure00
Active Member
I had the basenor kit. It didn't help with noise or dirt.
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Sound Deadening Model 3
- Thread starter fly2damoon
- Start date
I had the basenor kit. It didn't help with noise or dirt.
that’s disappointing. I literally cannot handle the dirt buildup under the doors, on the hinge areas, etc
there has to be a way!
Zcd1
Active Member
I followed the instructions for the various kits but bought the seals from a vendor who had immediate availability.
TydalForce
Member
I got this one from Farsala:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQVMR2D/
I think they're all the same just with different boxes.
Rubber stuff was fine. Adhesive Promoter was crap; I ordered better ones separately.
I think it all helped with the sound but it's hard to tell.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQVMR2D/
I think they're all the same just with different boxes.
Rubber stuff was fine. Adhesive Promoter was crap; I ordered better ones separately.
I think it all helped with the sound but it's hard to tell.
XLR82XS
D M C
It's rough in the door sills. Only thing I can think of now is thicker weatherstripping or a style different than what vendors are offering.that’s disappointing. I literally cannot handle the dirt buildup under the doors, on the hinge areas, etc
there has to be a way!
jrweiss98020
Tessa's Tesla
Were you able to get the center trunk piece on, and still close the trunk? I could not...
I used a T45 and had no issue. You will need red loctite to secure them back in place. It will probably be best to clean it any loctire residues on the bolts prior to screw them back in. I don't have the service manual, I would think you need to torque @15-20# but I might be wrong.
Were you able to get this to squeeze into between the windshield? I managed to squeeze it enough to cover the rear glass, but I don’t think the 1/4” tube compresses enough to cover the windshield.
If you stretch it out significantly it can be squeezed into smaller gaps. But it's not easy and you need something like an 1/8-inch blade to help with the insertion process. A credit card or even the Tesla card will do the trick
For those who have sound deadened their trunk areas...
- Is there anything I should know about disconnecting the subwoofer so I can get into the rear passenger side wheel well behind it? A little nervous to disconnect it...
- With MLV typically needing 100% coverage, is it even worth it to apply something like Luxury liner pro over the sound deadening on just the rear wheel wells? I don't intend to cover everything w/ MLV but if I can eliminate a lot of road noise by just applying it in those areas, I would.
There are several obvious/can't-mix-em-up connectors on the amplifier. Once disconnected, you're good to go. Just don't poke the speaker itself. 3-4 nuts and you can remove the subwoofer.
I didn't use MLV, and I don't think it's really designed for cars? More as curtains between two air spaces that need acoustic isolation.
The strategy I went for that seemed to work was to put Dynamat-type stuff on panels that clearly resonated. And there were quite a few. I don't think you have to cover every square inch with that material, because the point is to reduce the resonance, not block the sound. Once you get back in there to the space over the rear tires, you'll find Tesla put some odd blocks of foam in there, presumably to help absorb airborne sound, and to dampen the panels because it is pressed in there. But there isn't much. And there is room for more. I put in quite a bit more, cut from "acoustic foam" from my recording studio that had started to shed. Definitely helped.
I didn't use MLV, and I don't think it's really designed for cars? More as curtains between two air spaces that need acoustic isolation.
The strategy I went for that seemed to work was to put Dynamat-type stuff on panels that clearly resonated. And there were quite a few. I don't think you have to cover every square inch with that material, because the point is to reduce the resonance, not block the sound. Once you get back in there to the space over the rear tires, you'll find Tesla put some odd blocks of foam in there, presumably to help absorb airborne sound, and to dampen the panels because it is pressed in there. But there isn't much. And there is room for more. I put in quite a bit more, cut from "acoustic foam" from my recording studio that had started to shed. Definitely helped.
Good, i thought I may need to disconnect power somehow as some people reported seeing sparks when moving the subwoofer which made me nervous.
From what i've read, the ideal soundproofing method is sound dampening (dynamat, noico, kilmat, etc.), ccf (closed cell foam), and then mlv. I have already applied kilmat everywhere else to sound deaden the trunk.
It's interesting because watching the Model y teardown by Sandy Muro I saw the foam cubes they used in the wheel wells, however, in my 6/18 there was no foam in the cavernous area at all.
My sound deadening mod list so far
1. sunroof elastic (no improvement at all)
2. rubber sound deadening for doors, trunk, frunk bought on ebay (no improvement at all)
3. A pillar gap filling (slightly improvement)
4. Four wheel wells sound deadening (see below)
Feedback: I am using Falken FK510, it claims to be quieter than Michelin PS4. After spending 4hrs putting the sound deadening material, I feel there is only marginally improved. I put the same kit on my 2012 Mazda 5, it was day and night difference, so I am bit disappointed here. The car A/C esd off and no audio turned on while testing: on newly paved road, definitely a bit quiet, but on rough concrete, the noise is absurd.
Should you do it? NO, unless you enjoy the process of ripping things out, sure.
1. sunroof elastic (no improvement at all)
2. rubber sound deadening for doors, trunk, frunk bought on ebay (no improvement at all)
3. A pillar gap filling (slightly improvement)
4. Four wheel wells sound deadening (see below)
Feedback: I am using Falken FK510, it claims to be quieter than Michelin PS4. After spending 4hrs putting the sound deadening material, I feel there is only marginally improved. I put the same kit on my 2012 Mazda 5, it was day and night difference, so I am bit disappointed here. The car A/C esd off and no audio turned on while testing: on newly paved road, definitely a bit quiet, but on rough concrete, the noise is absurd.
Should you do it? NO, unless you enjoy the process of ripping things out, sure.
Interesting! I did a similar thing on mine, including treating the wheel wells. I measured a 4-5dB drop (A-weighted, slow response) over the same section of road at the same speed. Not as much as I'd hoped, certainly, but it seemed to verify what my ears were telling me.
I do think a lot of what we hear is vibration transfer through the suspension. I don't know that there's a lot we can do about that at the source, where the issue would best be dealt with. You're left trying to limit the transmission from the interior panels.
I do think a lot of what we hear is vibration transfer through the suspension. I don't know that there's a lot we can do about that at the source, where the issue would best be dealt with. You're left trying to limit the transmission from the interior panels.
XLR82XS
D M C
Agreed. The only reason I got a door seal kit is $15 and to keep the jambs clean.
Most likely this is the case but then how can other manufacturers make their cars so much quieter. Is this just one piece of the suspension which is poorly designed and spreads vibrations? Is it the whole assembly? I'm thinking about the e-tron, it's on the polar opposite of the scale having one of the quietest rides...
The car has been dismantled for the last couple of days and the wife was not having it, so I had to reinstall the trim without getting behind the subwoofer. I couldn't for the life of me get the last bolt on the amplifier to loosen or unlatch the bigger grey connector on top of the amplifier. Kind of bummed since I feel like the passenger wheel well would've made the biggest difference behind the sub and I also have a slight rattle/buzz coming from the rear passenger area that I was hoping sound deadening the area could help.
I'll try to finish up by doing the rear deck with what little kilmat I have left (used almost the whole 36 sqft on the trunk) and hopefully that helps a bit. I've seen a few pictures of people who have done the trunk but I don't think I've seen pictures of people who've done the rear deck from the top- I already covered the underside of the deck in the trunk.
hridge2020
Member
My sound deadening mod list so far
1. sunroof elastic (no improvement at all)
2. rubber sound deadening for doors, trunk, frunk bought on ebay (no improvement at all)
3. A pillar gap filling (slightly improvement)
4. Four wheel wells sound deadening (see below)
Feedback: I am using Falken FK510, it claims to be quieter than Michelin PS4. After spending 4hrs putting the sound deadening material, I feel there is only marginally improved. I put the same kit on my 2012 Mazda 5, it was day and night difference, so I am bit disappointed here. The car A/C esd off and no audio turned on while testing: on newly paved road, definitely a bit quiet, but on rough concrete, the noise is absurd.
Should you do it? NO, unless you enjoy the process of ripping things out, sure.
I would of applied the sound insulation to the cabin area vs wheel wells..
as I have read the first post here, I will probably do the doors and under the front carpet only.
Remember guys, always use the reputable material for the interior as Audi in China was sued using harmful material and cause quite a large group of owners having cancers.
Remember guys, always use the reputable material for the interior as Audi in China was sued using harmful material and cause quite a large group of owners having cancers.
because Audi’s build quality is light years ahead of Tesla. I love my model 3 but it’s build quality is more on par with non luxury brands. It looks more luxurious because of the simplistic design. I’ve owned four Audi vehicles and my wife has a 2018 q7. Model s and x are built much better and their price tags reflect it. We tend to forget this cars price is due to the battery and electric motors. Without them it would be maybe half.
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