Wiki Sudden Loss Of Range With 2019.16.x Software

[sorka]

What they don't tell you about the MCU2 retrofit is the higher vampire drain on pre-Q2-2015 vehicles because the battery packs don't have the standby power supply DCDC which powers the MCU's standby power and body control module directly from the HV battery. The standby supply means the main contactors can stay open (saving ~20-30W IIRC). Without it they have to stay closed, a pump has to run to cool the DCDC, etc. (Yeah, a pump has to run any time to contactors are closed to circulate coolant through the DCDC... so... yeah).

MCU2 was only originally installed in cars with this standby supply and seems to behave... oddly... in cars that don't have it. As in, it stays awake more than it should.

I figure they'll fix that eventually.

You just answered my question in the thread I started:

Gave me quite a shock when I disconnected the 12v battery after the MCU2 upgrade to replace my charge port door and to my amazement nothing shut off. MCU continued to stay on...music continued playing....etc.

I confirmed the contactors staying open and the battery ALWAYS being topped off. The other benefit should be much longer 12v battery life as it's no longer cycling 24 hours a day being drained and then topped off multiple times a day.

That said, my P85D is a Q 1 (3/31 delivered car), not a Q2.

Several days after the MCU2 upgrade, I started getting w094 and u008 contactor errors. Wonder if it's a coincidence or related to the contactors staying open 24 hours / day.

 

[aerodyne]

I already have SMT installed. Let me run out and check.

It says battery pump 1 and 2 are at 0%. I can still hear the faint whirling inside the firewall but I think it's actually coming from behind the MCU.
Earlier, above 75%, I could easily hear liquid circulating when it was louder.

Here is my custom SMT tab that covers all the parameters I like to see..

 

[aerodyne]

You just answered my question in the thread I started:

Gave me quite a shock when I disconnected the 12v battery after the MCU2 upgrade to replace my charge port door and to my amazement nothing shut off. MCU continued to stay on...music continued playing....etc.

I confirmed the contactors staying open and the battery ALWAYS being topped off. The other benefit should be much longer 12v battery life as it's no longer cycling 24 hours a day being drained and then topped off multiple times a day.

That said, my P85D is a Q 1 (3/31 delivered car), not a Q2.

Several days after the MCU2 upgrade, I started getting w094 and u008 contactor errors. Wonder if it's a coincidence or related to the contactors staying open 24 hours / day.

I have a 6/15 build, and still MCU1, but tempted to upgrade..I am going to guess I am not affected, as my contactors open quite often, and I see the 12v batt voltage fluctuate quite a bit.

Still waiting for the camera issue to be sorted out...

 

[sorka]

I have a 6/15 build, and still MCU1, but tempted to upgrade..I am going to guess I am not affected, as my contactors open quite often, and I see the 12v batt voltage fluctuate quite a bit.

Still waiting for the camera issue to be sorted out...

With the MCU2 upgrade, your contactors would stay open and your 12v battery would stay topped off and no longer cycle.

 

[sorka]

So while asleep, my main pack amps are 0.4. DC-IN is 144 watts @ 5 amps and DC out is 68.5 watts. Powertrain pump2 is circulating at 27%. Battery pumps are 0%.

144 watts continuously is 1261 kwh / year. Since I have solar and power wall, any charging is done off peak at 18 cents plus 2.1 cents for NBCs (PG&E just raised he rates) which is $254 / year of vampire drain.

My vampire drain is mostly unchanged after the MCU2 upgrade. It's not saving me or costing me anything but at least the 12v battery is no longer being cycled and it recently pulled well over 500 CAs on my battery tester so it should be good to go for years since it's not being cycled anymore.

 

[AustinP]

Still waiting for the camera issue to be sorted out...

If you refer to the darker rear camera, this is fixed and reportedly almost as good as original. Can’t tell myself as I’m still on mcu1, but friend of mine is very happy with his upgraded MCU2 and even more so with the fixed camera (one of the latest 2021 updates)

 

[wk057]

With the MCU2 upgrade, your contactors would stay open and your 12v battery would stay topped off and no longer cycle.

Just to note, open means the circuit is open and no power flows. Closed means they're engaged and power is flowing.

 

[Brass Guy]

Thanks @AustinP - I just got mine back with the MCU upgrade, and the camera is useless at night. It has been many years since I've looked forward to an update.

 

[AustinP]

Thanks @AustinP - I just got mine back with the MCU upgrade, and the camera is useless at night. It has been many years since I've looked forward to an update.

My friend tells me now that he has MCU2 he gets all updates very quickly, so it should not take long for your car to get it.

 

[sorka]

Just to note, open means the circuit is open and no power flows. Closed means they're engaged and power is flowing.

Right. Typo. I think I used closed everywhere else where power is flowing.

 

[jaitch]

That's a lot of degradation! My 90 pack, while still stuck at 94 kWh and less for supercharging, reports 243 miles range at 90%.

My 2016 V1 90 is showing 229 mile full UK "typical" (= your US "rated") at just 44000 total miles - which I think is blooming atrocious and I am pretty sure Tesla don't give a hoot - they sold it to me with 240 miles max 2 years ago. Must biggest bug bear is the inability to get the claimed performance. Now the latest firmware has got my coolant pumps running for one minute every five minutes and no one can me if that is the new normal. Sorry for the off topic rant.

James

 

[aerodyne]

My 2016 V1 90 is showing 229 mile full UK "typical" (= your US "rated") at just 44000 total miles - which I think is blooming atrocious and I am pretty sure Tesla don't give a hoot - they sold it to me with 240 miles max 2 years ago. Must biggest bug bear is the inability to get the claimed performance. Now the latest firmware has got my coolant pumps running for one minute every five minutes and no one can me if that is the new normal. Sorry for the off topic rant.

James

James;

I don't have range gate, or battery gate, but can relate to the pump problem.

Let's call it "pumpgate"

In my 2015 S85D, it can be mitigated by avoiding charging and storage above 77%. The pumps will run at a low rate but stop soon after charge is complete.

Although it is only 200w for the pumps to run at 100%, it won't let the car sleep either, until it is below 74% SoC.

Seems like with your case of range gate, you would need to charge higher than that, but try charging just before a trip, level 2, as much as you need, but not over 90-95%.

This will warm up the pack, increasing efficiency, and avoiding regen gate if the pack temp is north of 15deg C.

Hope this helps..

 

[Droschke]

Does anyone know the answer to this question:
Is the charging speed reduction (chargegate) tied to the car’s VIN# or to its battery pack (Serial#, part#)?

I’m hoping it's tied to the pack.

 

[gmo43]

James;

I don't have range gate, or battery gate, but can relate to the pump problem.

Let's call it "pumpgate"

In my 2015 S85D, it can be mitigated by avoiding charging and storage above 77%. The pumps will run at a low rate but stop soon after charge is complete.

Although it is only 200w for the pumps to run at 100%, it won't let the car sleep either, until it is below 74% SoC.

Seems like with your case of range gate, you would need to charge higher than that, but try charging just before a trip, level 2, as much as you need, but not over 90-95%.

This will warm up the pack, increasing efficiency, and avoiding regen gate if the pack temp is north of 15deg C.

Hope this helps..

Hey hey hey, i labeled that draingate a while ago

 

[aerodyne]

Hey hey hey, i labeled that draingate a while ago

Should give credit, but can't remember where I saw pumpgate...

 

[Kim.T]

Does anyone know the answer to this question:
Is the charging speed reduction (chargegate) tied to the car’s VIN# or to its battery pack (Serial#, part#)?

I’m hoping it's tied to the pack.

Didn't WK057 wrote BMS

 

[jaitch]

James;

I don't have range gate, or battery gate, but can relate to the pump problem.

Let's call it "pumpgate"

In my 2015 S85D, it can be mitigated by avoiding charging and storage above 77%. The pumps will run at a low rate but stop soon after charge is complete.

......

Hope this helps..

My pumpgate issue is not the draingate pump issue. When car is idle and off my pumps are running for exactly one minute, every five minutes irrespective of charge level (which is generally 50% at the moment). This started when I went from 2020.20.1 to 2020.48.37 recently. I suspect it is a new maintenance procedure for the battery. Miles lost per day is no different to what it was before from what I can tell. Tesla have no answer nor anyone else apparently as everyone reads draingate then moves on maybe!

James

 

[SO16]

My pumpgate issue is not the draingate pump issue. When car is idle and off my pumps are running for exactly one minute, every five minutes irrespective of charge level (which is generally 50% at the moment). This started when I went from 2020.20.1 to 2020.48.37 recently. I suspect it is a new maintenance procedure for the battery. Miles lost per day is no different to what it was before from what I can tell. Tesla have no answer nor anyone else apparently as everyone reads draingate then moves on maybe!

James

Do you have passive entry on or off? It appears that passive entry being “off” caused this on my vehicle. I have since turned it back on. There would be an authentication error every 5-6 minutes or so.

 

[jaitch]

Do you have passive entry on or off? It appears that passive entry being “off” caused this on my vehicle. I have since turned it back on. There would be an authentication error every 5-6 minutes or so.

I have tried both on and off with key present and not and it still does it. I normally have passive entry on. Also my wifi will not turn off and seems permanently connected. Or rather I can turn it off in car and as soon as I close the door it springs back into life and connects to my garage router. Done the usual cycling all the settings on and off ad infinitum as usual. It's just tedious trying to find out if it is "normal", doing new exciting diagnostics on my rubbish V1 pack, or is actually a fault with car or just a firmware glitch. The usual for us Tesla mushrooms.

James

 

[sorka]

According to service, the BMS errors I was getting are related to HVL node misconfiguration in the new MCU2 upgrade I just got a few weeks ago. They reconfigured those settings and the BMS errors went away.

They still charged me $195 diagnosis. I really don't think that is fair since they've already stated this was an issue caused by the MCU2 upgrade which I already paid for. Really seems like the upgrade wasn't fully configured properly and that correcting it should have been included with my purchase of the upgrade.