Wiki Sudden Loss Of Range With 2019.16.x Software

[lightningltd]

This charging voltage drop to protect UMC sucks. My shop is 200' from my service on the house, of course there is going to be voltage drop. So now I am stuck with 30a max charging.

Try this: Right before you plug in the charger, set the amps on the screen to 38 or 37
Works for me at the Casper Wyoming Destination charger. If I don't, I get 30.

 

[Droschke]

Mine has gone up to that range as well.
I did notice that the cooling pump seems to be going off more often at night. The alarming part is that it is NOT plugged in and NOT charging, so WHY would it need to keep cycling the vents and run the pump and the fan?
Is there something in the pack heating up (like a rogue battery) that we NEED to know about?
Has anyone left their scan tool connected all night (with the car unplugged) to see what it is up to?

After 2019.16.1, and while my car was plugged in and garaged, the pumps ran for two days, first day about 10 hours and the next day for a little bit less while using the main battery and not the shore power. I lost lots of miles in those days and strongly believe they were running multiple tests on my battery which led to the capacity cap once I installed 2019.16.2 days later. Another thing I also noticed was huge upload of data from the car to Tesla after the pump stopped running. I even started a thread at that time. What you are experiencing might be the same thing: Tesla running tests and collecting data. Just a guess.

 

[SigRed12]

Mine has gone up to that range as well.
I did notice that the cooling pump seems to be going off more often at night. The alarming part is that it is NOT plugged in and NOT charging, so WHY would it need to keep cycling the vents and run the pump and the fan?
Is there something in the pack heating up (like a rogue battery) that we NEED to know about?
Has anyone left their scan tool connected all night (with the car unplugged) to see what it is up to?

Mine just came back from service for the pumps continuous running even when not charging and with mild ambient temps. Here is the invoice:

Tested thermal system and found the powertrain coolant pump is not operating properly causing issues, noise and alerts.
Replaced all three coolant pumps. Vehicle now passes thermal test. Completed.

Correction: General Diagnosis
Correction: Powertrain Coolant Pump 1 - 1st Generation (RWD) (Remove & Replace)
Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity
PUMP, MOTOR INVERTER COOLANT(6007373-00-C) 1.0

Correction: Battery Coolant Pump 1 - 1st Generation (Remove & Replace)
Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity
PUMP, BATTERY COOLANT 2(6008047-00-C) 1.0

Correction: Battery Coolant Pump 2 - 1st Generation (Remove & Replace)
Parts Replaced or Added
Part Quantity
PUMP, BATTERY COOLANT 1(6007367-00-C) 1.0

Pay Type: Basic Vehicle Limited Warranty

Hopefully yours is under warranty as the SC told me this would have been about a $3k job.

 

[sorka]

I have it written in an e-mail from Tesla Service

So you have it in writing that they changed the EPA set wh / mile constant used to calculate "RATED RANGE", or where the talking about estimated range. If estimated, can you please ask them to clarify it against rated range which doesn't factor in anything excep the EPA test loop so it can't change unless the car is recertified and even then not retroactively against shipped units.

Can you please post a screen shot or something of what they provided you?

 

[jaitch]

Mine has gone up to that range as well.
I did notice that the cooling pump seems to be going off more often at night. The alarming part is that it is NOT plugged in and NOT charging, so WHY would it need to keep cycling the vents and run the pump and the fan?
Is there something in the pack heating up (like a rogue battery) that we NEED to know about?
Has anyone left their scan tool connected all night (with the car unplugged) to see what it is up to?

If I touch my door handle as if to open, but with no key, the rear tailgate seems to check it is locked. Then about tens seconds later the main contactors click on, car connects to wifi and both the coolant pumps (no fans) then power up and run for exactly one minute. I am sure I have also noticed random, short term, coolant pump running. I assumed this is for temperature stabilisation of the battery.

 

[jaitch]

He propably gets thousands (or more?) tweets every day. He probably reads few, when he has spare time (which he doesn’t have..). So only possibility to reach him is either by random luck or organised tweet campaign.

I think he would reply to a cleverly worded tweet about loss of range on a Mars mission due to a software update anomaly.

 

[Bmod]

Can you explain this more? The UMC can't drop the voltage. If your voltage dropped, it's because you have a wiring problem somewhere.

I live in the sticks, voltage is high but drops when a load is applied. It is amplified by the fact my service and shop are far apart. I drop of a few volts triggers the car to reduce from 40a charging to 30a charging. Voltage drop from wires is within 3%.

 

[sorka]

I live in the sticks, voltage is high but drops when a load is applied. It is amplified by the fact my service and shop are far apart. I drop of a few volts triggers the car to reduce from 40a charging to 30a charging. Voltage drop from wires is within 3%.

My point is that the HWPC is not "dropping" voltage. The voltage drop is a factor of wiring and how much current load is placed on the circuit.

 

[egn1]

If I touch my door handle as if to open, but with no key, the rear tailgate seems to check it is locked. Then about tens seconds later the main contactors click on, car connects to wifi and both the coolant pumps (no fans) then power up and run for exactly one minute. I am sure I have also noticed random, short term, coolant pump running. I assumed this is for temperature stabilisation of the battery.

Running the coolant pump for a short time is probably the only possibility to measure current temperature of the cells. The temperature sensors are sitting at the inlet and the outlet of the cooling loop of each battery module.

You can see the values with ScanMyTesla or TM-Spy.

 

[boywonder]

Posted this in another thread but seems more relevant in this one.

So In addition to fixing the sketch pad app, update 2019.24.4 no longer displays expected mileage/km range next to the battery symbol in the upper (binacle) display above the steering wheel.

Even if you select show range rather that energy in the Displays section in the console.

It looks like Tesla decided to make it more difficult for users to understand the range loss affecting our vehicles rather than fix the root cause issue.

Not really feeling Tesla’s love and support right now...

 

[jaitch]

Posted this in another thread but seems more relevant in this one.

So In addition to fixing the sketch pad app, update 2019.24.4 no longer displays expected mileage/km range next to the battery symbol in the upper (binacle) display above the steering wheel.

Even if you select show range rather that energy in the Displays section in the console.

It looks like Tesla decided to make it more difficult for users to understand the range loss affecting our vehicles rather than fix the root cause issue.

Not really feeling Tesla’s love and support right now...

Are you saying you no longer have miles on your dash and just %? I still have miles or % on 24.4.

 

[DJRas]

Posted this in another thread but seems more relevant in this one.

So In addition to fixing the sketch pad app, update 2019.24.4 no longer displays expected mileage/km range next to the battery symbol in the upper (binacle) display above the steering wheel.

Even if you select show range rather that energy in the Displays section in the console.

It looks like Tesla decided to make it more difficult for users to understand the range loss affecting our vehicles rather than fix the root cause issue.

Not really feeling Tesla’s love and support right now...

Hmmmm... that is wierd because mine still displays miles on 2019.24.4

 

[mjmiron]

Mine still displays miles on my dash as well if you haven’t already try resetting maybe that would clear it up?

 

[Droschke]

update 2019.24.4 no longer displays expected mileage/km range next to the battery symbol in the upper (binacle) display above the steering wheel.

Not with my car.

 

[boywonder]

That’s interesting, thanks.

I think I’ll power the car down and then start it up again to see if it fixed itself

 

[Chaserr]

@boywonder Were you affected before .24? I'm never going to update ever again so I don't want to confirm, but if your lack of range display isn't a glitch Tesla may only want to hide range from those of us they took it from.

 

[BigNick]

@boywonder Were you affected before .24? I'm never going to update ever again so I don't want to confirm, but if your lack of range display isn't a glitch Tesla may only want to hide range from those of us they took it from.

Interesting if that appears to be the case, it could be an indicator of the existence of "Condition Z".

 

[mjmiron]

I think most have updated their cars to .24 I did just to see if it would fix the range no joy

 

[mjmiron]

It is published anywhere about the full charge capacity of a 85 to the 4.2? I don’t have a scan tool but am trying to get data together to fight this myself with the local service center to get my battery replaced. I am also waiting on the states AG to get back with me as well.

 

[Droschke]

It is published anywhere about the full charge capacity of a 85 to the 4.2? I don’t have a scan tool but am trying to get data together to fight this myself with the local service center to get my battery replaced. I am also waiting on the states AG to get back with me as well.

You are basically looking for the Tesla Model S 85 kWh Range when the car was new.