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Sway Bars, End Links, and Rear Control Arms Installation & Impression

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#noshimparty
Well, first auto-x with all the MPP alignment toys.... Driver mod needed! The turn in and grip is insane. So much so that I am hitting backside cones frequently, something I hardly ever did before. The car feels so much more controllable though and I am loving the need to re-learn.

The first day I tried 8/6 c/r front and rear on the coilovers. I am not sure I will change anything there yet. Still playing with track mode too. Lot of new variables to learn.
 
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#noshimparty
Well, first auto-x with all the MPP alignment toys.... Driver mod needed! The turn in and grip is insane. So much so that I am hitting backside cones frequently, something I hardly ever did before. The car feels so much more controllable though and I am loving the need to re-learn.

The first day I tried 8/6 c/r front and rear on the coilovers. I am not sure I will change anything there yet. Still playing with track mode too. Lot of new variables to learn.
Just got my bars in. These bushings are thicc. Is everyone running soft front and medium rear?
 
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A few more fun updates:
Full race orientated sway bars for Model 3 are in production. This new spec is completely not needed for street cars but we will be building on our Ascension-R complete car program and doing more extreme mods so this is forward planning for that. We would still suggest our existing sway bars for almost all use cases but for the super hardcore track guys we have something more extreme coming as we prepare to add even further onto our record 1:54 Buttonwillow lap (done with TC V1).

Model Y sway bar prototypes are performing well! Here's a video of our track testing last Friday and setting a record lap in an SUV haha!

More race bits on the way at all times!
Will update more on our adjustable links and the thoughts behind them soon/when ready.
 
I just put my @UnpluggedP bars on this weekend and I’m super happy with the results:

The car feels planted and hugs the road, steering and turn in is more precise and direct, steering wheel “feel” feels more sporty and rotations want to return to zero, confidence on high speed curves/turns and total disregard of speed and members in the car is high. Does not impact ride quality at all.

Settings: Front (S) and Rear (M)

PLUS you can see the bar(s) if you have open face wheels.

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Does anyone got knocking sound driving slow over uneven bumps after installing UP sway bars? I have a feeling that rubber holder allows bars to move enough to make annoying thuds noise.
Do you have the old version or new version. My neighborhood has about a 4” speed hump and I have a somewhat incline of a driveway but no noises. Granted I just installed them but if you have your front bar on medium and have the old version...that might be the culprit
 
Do you have the old version or new version. My neighborhood has about a 4” speed hump and I have a somewhat incline of a driveway but no noises. Granted I just installed them but if you have your front bar on medium and have the old version...that might be the culprit
Its not touching anything, I'm on a newer version, I checked every suspension nut torque. So my only guess left is that the bar is violently pushed inside rubber bushing. Or flange hits the bushing.
 
Does anyone got knocking sound driving slow over uneven bumps after installing UP sway bars? I have a feeling that rubber holder allows bars to move enough to make annoying thuds noise.

Yes. In addition to possible issues with the bushings, the new bar also has more slop between the flanges where the bushing stops are:

IMG_20200523_140036.jpg

The old bar wasn't this bad. However I already checked with UP and they said the distance between the flanges (663.5 mm) is "correct". Note that the mounts do have a small amount of side-to-side slop in the bolt holes, but not enough to eliminate the gap you see in the photo.

My initial theory was that the sound was caused by the bar moving left to right so that the flanges hit the bushings. However after removing the bar I noted there is a large amount of slop on one side (only) between the bar and the bushing. The other side has no slop at all. I haven't pulled the bushings off to measure everything yet. UP sent me a new set of bushings to try as well. I did note the replacement bushings have a slightly different design so maybe something has changed.

I suspect it's a defect in the bar though, not the bushings, especially if I'm not the only one with the issue.

(and just to be clear, I put the stock bar back on and there is absolutely no noise at all, the noise is definitely related to the UP sway bar)

I'm awaiting some Race Ramps before I dive back in and try to isolate what's going on. Jacking the car up and down over and over again is not my idea of a fun time :) Luckily the sound is fairly easy to reproduce.
 
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Yes. In addition to possible issues with the bushings, the new bar also has more slop between the flanges where the bushing stops are:

View attachment 554306

The old bar wasn't this bad. However I already checked with UP and they said the distance between the flanges (663.5 mm) is "correct". Note that the mounts do have a small amount of side-to-side slop in the bolt holes, but not enough to eliminate the gap you see in the photo.

My initial theory was that the sound was caused by the bar moving left to right so that the flanges hit the bushings. However after removing the bar I noted there is a large amount of slop on one side (only) between the bar and the bushing. The other side has no slop at all. I haven't pulled the bushings off to measure everything yet. UP sent me a new set of bushings to try as well. I did note the replacement bushings have a slightly different design so maybe something has changed.

I suspect it's a defect in the bar though, not the bushings, especially if I'm not the only one with the issue.

(and just to be clear, I put the stock bar back on and there is absolutely no noise at all, the noise is definitely related to the UP sway bar)

I'm awaiting some Race Ramps before I dive back in and try to isolate what's going on. Jacking the car up and down over and over again is not my idea of a fun time :) Luckily the sound is fairly easy to reproduce.
I'm going to install back stock front bar today and see if that fixes the issue. I never saw any flanges on sway bars before. Everybody just bent their bars to stop it from sliding off...

I guess new much wider bushings can help.
Can I get those @UnpluggedP in Czechia?
 
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I'm going to install back stock front bar today and see if that fixes the issue. I never saw any flanges on sway bars before. Everybody just bent their bars to stop it from sliding off...

I guess new much wider bushings can help.
Can I get those @UnpluggedP in Czechia?
Yes. In addition to possible issues with the bushings, the new bar also has more slop between the flanges where the bushing stops are:

View attachment 554306

The old bar wasn't this bad. However I already checked with UP and they said the distance between the flanges (663.5 mm) is "correct". Note that the mounts do have a small amount of side-to-side slop in the bolt holes, but not enough to eliminate the gap you see in the photo.

My initial theory was that the sound was caused by the bar moving left to right so that the flanges hit the bushings. However after removing the bar I noted there is a large amount of slop on one side (only) between the bar and the bushing. The other side has no slop at all. I haven't pulled the bushings off to measure everything yet. UP sent me a new set of bushings to try as well. I did note the replacement bushings have a slightly different design so maybe something has changed.

I suspect it's a defect in the bar though, not the bushings, especially if I'm not the only one with the issue.

(and just to be clear, I put the stock bar back on and there is absolutely no noise at all, the noise is definitely related to the UP sway bar)

I'm awaiting some Race Ramps before I dive back in and try to isolate what's going on. Jacking the car up and down over and over again is not my idea of a fun time :) Luckily the sound is fairly easy to reproduce.

The word “slop” is probably not the right NOR correct word to use. When I read your comments I’m thinking inches of play but When I installed it the bars I saw about 1/8th on each side so 1/4” in total. there are tolerances built in the bars which I assume is for Tesla manufacture errors. I would hate to do all that work, jack up the car and the flange interfere with the mounting point. Hell there are slots in the rear bracket for tolerances.

I ripped my car around corners all day yesterday. Had friends told me I needed to be on medium in the front instead of soft but it’s feels good right now. No creaks here but maybe you can pinpoint the sound if you had a GoPro on the ground at a speed bump and roll over it.
 
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The word “slop” is probably not the right NOR correct word to use. When I read your comments I’m thinking inches of play but When I installed it the bars I saw about 1/8th on each side so 1/4” in total. there are tolerances built in the bars which I assume is for Tesla manufacture errors.

Semantics aside (inches if play, really? LOL) my post probably wasn't clear, sorry. My primary point about the large gap was that the old bar didn't have as large of a gap (and also didn't make any noise).
 
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