Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Tesla infotainment system upgradeable from MCU1 to MCU2

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Did I get this right? If I pay for the MCU2 upgrade for my 2017 S90D with AP2 and EAP, Tesla will upgrade me from AP2 to the FSD computer as well?

And I'll save $250 if I keep my screen? I park indoors and Seattle has very little sun so the yellowing UV issue hasn't been a big deal for me.

$2250 for working Sentry mode and camera recording is pretty intriguing. And if Elon ever does get full FSD working, then I could upgrade OTA as well. I could also get my jetpack and cold fusion reactor at the same time. ;)
 
I put my request in last night for my 2015 AP1 MS, received a text asking which MCU2 I wanted (with or without screen). I opted for a new screen. I haven’t had any yellowing (less concerned about that) or leaking (mostly concerned that this could develop).

Here’s hoping my current MCU can hold out for a month or 2!

How did you "put your request" for your MCU2 upgrade for your 2015 AP1 MS ???

My Tesla App: UPGRADES says "You have all of the eligible upgrades" for my 2015 AP1 MS P85D
 
  • Informative
Reactions: FlatSix911
Thanks!

I'm waiting for Tesla Battery Day (September 22nd) before committing to the $2,500 upgrade cost on my 2015 P85D... especially since I still have 3 years remaining on my Tesla Extended Service Plan.
I am going to wait to upgrade my 2015 70D. I recently had the emmc replaced so my MCU1 should be working for a while. I am just not seeing any strong reasons to update, considering AP1 cars will not benefit from most of the features. We're going to get a few games, netflex, but lose FM. Just can't see doing it.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: pilotSteve
My MCU1 just died today and now I won’t be able to upgrade to MCU2 since I have to pay for a replacement MCU1. RIP
My MCU1 also died recently. SC here said I could get a warranty MCU1 but they were back ordered. But he also said I could get MCU2 + AP3 fast if:

1. I bought FSD which I did before the $ increase
2. Bought the MCU2 upgrade and
3. Dropped the car off, but i got an s85 loaner.

Took 3 days. No brainer. FWIW, he said #3 was important as on-premises cars get priority. Not sure if this is across the board or not - YMMV.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cybergates
FWIW, he said #3 was important as on-premises cars get priority. Not sure if this is across the board or not - YMMV.

Not related to the MCU upgrade but I've heard this as well. My service center is reasonably close, but still about a 45 minute drive away. When I've had service done in the past I'd offered to drop the car off a few days in advance of my appointment whenever I had someone nearby the service center who was able to give me a ride back to my place. (which isn't often) I have my beater ICE car that I can drive while the Tesla is in the shop so I don't need a loaner. The service people prefer I drop it day of (or day before) because some clock starts ticking when your car is on the premises for work to be done. Since I don't need a loaner I've always said "Take as long as you need, I don't need the car back anytime soon." but they apparently need to get it done as soon as they can for internal metrics or something like that.
 
I picked up my car today after finally getting it done, and didn't recognize it as my vehicle. It's sooo much smoother and faster! Definitely worth it in my opinion (I'm impatiently waiting for the maps to finish downloading).

Just picked mine up- re-paired with my phone, garage door openers and WiFi and couldn’t be happier!
 
Last edited:
One thing to check after your MCU2 upgrade....

Make sure your mobile app can unlock the doors, pop trunk and Frunk.

After a week of using the upgrade I forgot my fob and opened the app to unlock the car. It shows it went through but nothing happens. Same for trunk and Frunk. It will vent windows and honk horn. Called Tesla lock out who sent the command, showed no errors and had no idea. Was in good network area.

Apparently after any MCU upgrade, they need to “reset your security remote key”, which they forgot to do.

Calling the customer service number, no one knew anything. Scheduled an appointment, they were able to respond to that and remotely fix without needing a ranger to come out.

Just a quick thing to check before you drive off the service lot.
Looks like I should have checked this before I left, as sure enough I'm encountering the same issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gt1948
Someone commented the new screen looks and feels different. More details??

interested in this as well. been waiting 6 weeks now for my parts to come in but SC said if I choose to keep my old screen they can do the upgrade now. Tying to weigh pros and cons

I think I made this comment when I received a new screen unexpectantly in my MCU2 upgrade. I obviously knew the feel of my old screen after having driven with it for 3.5 years. The new screen felt "sticky," as in my finger did not glide across it as well as I remembered. It may have just been a brand new piece of glass without all the built-up greasy fingerprints I was used to. It also was a hot day when I picked the car up, so maybe my finger was just sweaty. It has not been a detriment in any way. It just felt noticeably different when I first touched it.

I would not let any of this keep you from getting a new screen if that is what you want or need. It looks identical to my old screen (I had no yellowing border, bubbling, etc.). The responsiveness of MCU2 is great. It's still not equivalent to recent I-pad great but a vast improvement over MCU1.

Some initial noticeable changes I have noted since MCU2 upgrade:
  • Voice commands just work. They were incredibly frustrating with MCU1, and I had given up on them. For the first time in a long time, I can reply to text messages through the car, and it actually works.
  • Bluetooth volume control changed. On MCU1, I would set my phone Bluetooth volume all the way up and then adjust the car's audio to obtain decent volume. Now, the phone's Bluetooth volume is directly connected to the car's volume. Turn up the phone's Bluetooth to the max and the car goes to "11". Decrease the car's volume, and the phone's Bluetooth volume decreases similarly. I discovered this with some pain to my ears when I instinctively just shoved my phone's Bluetooth to the max.
  • Connecting a Bluetooth phone call is nearly instantaneous. With MCU1, there was always a couple of seconds delay from accepting a call in the car and actually being connected to the conversation.
  • My bass is back! I have premium sound (whatever that was in October 2016). Initially, it sounded fantastic, but my subwoofer was anemic for the past several years after changes were made during software upgrades to the sound codecs used. I'm not a thumping bass fan, but I do like a balanced sound system. I had bass increased on the equalizer to around +4 on MCU1. I now have it on -3. It was that massive of a difference. I think my windows were rattling when I first played music over the MCU2. Initially, I did not think the MCU2 sounded as good as the MCU1, but really it just screwed up my equalization settings (which did not change BTW with the upgrade), and now I have to re-tune the system to a more balanced sound that I prefer.
  • Minimal, if any, difference in how autopilot feels. It still does stupid things repeatedly in the same road situations on my daily commute. I'm still hoping the software re-write will give us a significant advance.
  • I have not had time to try out stoplight/stopsign stuff (I need to not be in a hurry when I'm going somewhere). It's cool to see the visualizations though on the IC. This car certainly likes orange cones, often misidentifying other objects as cones. At least I hope it won't hit any of the objects with FSD.
  • I haven't tried any of the new games. That's for my kids to evaluate. Netflix through the car while supercharging...that's pretty cool and sounds great.
 
@HankLloydRight Do you have MCU2 and LH amp without the pop?
And piggybacking on this question, can you provide a video showing what the pop sounds like?

No, I have MCU1+LH. I read in another thread a user who has an (original) MCU2+LH and there was a loud pop when powering up. He knows the guys at LH and they repaired the LH amp to minimize the popping sound, but I don't know if the problem was with his car specifically, or with any MCU2+LH amp combo. At this point, LH is not offering a refurb special for MCU2 owners.
 
How long does it take to calibrate the cameras? I drove about 70 miles, and saw the calibration percentage swing up and down between 93-97% (ironic watching it go down).

Also, what's the latest maps version? It downloaded NA-2020.12-11866, but still says "Traffic Light and Stop Sign Control requires updated maps" (on 2020.20.17).
 
Last edited:
  • Informative
Reactions: Gt1948
I think I made this comment when I received a new screen unexpectantly in my MCU2 upgrade. I obviously knew the feel of my old screen after having driven with it for 3.5 years. The new screen felt "sticky," as in my finger did not glide across it as well as I remembered. It may have just been a brand new piece of glass without all the built-up greasy fingerprints I was used to. It also was a hot day when I picked the car up, so maybe my finger was just sweaty. It has not been a detriment in any way. It just felt noticeably different when I first touched it.

I would not let any of this keep you from getting a new screen if that is what you want or need. It looks identical to my old screen (I had no yellowing border, bubbling, etc.). The responsiveness of MCU2 is great. It's still not equivalent to recent I-pad great but a vast improvement over MCU1.

Some initial noticeable changes I have noted since MCU2 upgrade:
  • Voice commands just work. They were incredibly frustrating with MCU1, and I had given up on them. For the first time in a long time, I can reply to text messages through the car, and it actually works.
  • Bluetooth volume control changed. On MCU1, I would set my phone Bluetooth volume all the way up and then adjust the car's audio to obtain decent volume. Now, the phone's Bluetooth volume is directly connected to the car's volume. Turn up the phone's Bluetooth to the max and the car goes to "11". Decrease the car's volume, and the phone's Bluetooth volume decreases similarly. I discovered this with some pain to my ears when I instinctively just shoved my phone's Bluetooth to the max.
  • Connecting a Bluetooth phone call is nearly instantaneous. With MCU1, there was always a couple of seconds delay from accepting a call in the car and actually being connected to the conversation.
  • My bass is back! I have premium sound (whatever that was in October 2016). Initially, it sounded fantastic, but my subwoofer was anemic for the past several years after changes were made during software upgrades to the sound codecs used. I'm not a thumping bass fan, but I do like a balanced sound system. I had bass increased on the equalizer to around +4 on MCU1. I now have it on -3. It was that massive of a difference. I think my windows were rattling when I first played music over the MCU2. Initially, I did not think the MCU2 sounded as good as the MCU1, but really it just screwed up my equalization settings (which did not change BTW with the upgrade), and now I have to re-tune the system to a more balanced sound that I prefer.
  • Minimal, if any, difference in how autopilot feels. It still does stupid things repeatedly in the same road situations on my daily commute. I'm still hoping the software re-write will give us a significant advance.
  • I have not had time to try out stoplight/stopsign stuff (I need to not be in a hurry when I'm going somewhere). It's cool to see the visualizations though on the IC. This car certainly likes orange cones, often misidentifying other objects as cones. At least I hope it won't hit any of the objects with FSD.
  • I haven't tried any of the new games. That's for my kids to evaluate. Netflix through the car while supercharging...that's pretty cool and sounds great.
Maybe this is dumb of me, but did you verify that the plastic screen protector was removed? You mention it felt different to your finger and I've read others that didn't immediately notice the film was still installed. If not..... then "never mind".
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gt1948
Man, now that i've gotten the upgrade, i don't know what i'm going to do with the numerous hours every day i've spent crawling this thread in excitement.

As an aside, speaking with my local SC manager today - he mentioned that when they do my wife's MCU1/HW1 -> MCU2 upgrade, its going to be a substantially longer service visit because they will effectively install a HW2.5 computer in addition to the MCU2 upgrade. Probably been discussed but I thought i'd mention it.
 
How long does it take to calibrate the cameras? I drove about 70 miles, and saw the calibration percentage swing up and down between 93-97% (ironic watching it go down).

Also, what's the latest maps version? It downloaded NA-2020.12-11866, but still says "Traffic Light and Stop Sign Control requires updated maps" (on 2020.20.17).
I had my smart Summon calibration take forever - like 100 miles or more. I've found that surface streets with surrounding traffic seems to provide it the necessary context to calibrate. Highways with no traffic never got me any smart Summon calibration progress.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: MIT_S60
Man, now that i've gotten the upgrade, i don't know what i'm going to do with the numerous hours every day i've spent crawling this thread in excitement.

As an aside, speaking with my local SC manager today - he mentioned that when they do my wife's MCU1/HW1 -> MCU2 upgrade, its going to be a substantially longer service visit because they will effectively install a HW2.5 computer in addition to the MCU2 upgrade. Probably been discussed but I thought i'd mention it.

Humm - replacing the computer and all the cameras? I don't think they are replacing cameras and the other stuff shouldn't be any harder - but may be different cables.