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Burrito
Member
my understanding is its to remove any leftover residue the polish may leave behind ensuring a perfectly clean surface of oils before applying the ceramic
smjbh5
Member
I'll have to check, but I think essence is free of oils and wax and is supposed to bond to the paint and CQuartz
Burrito
Member
verystandard
Member
I actually got a box of chemical guys polish + pads from my friend (V32, V34, V36, V38), alongside with some hex logic pad (Orange, Green, White). I've heard lots of mixed results about Chemical Guys on Tesla, do you think I should use these on fixing my Tesla model 3 swirl? Or should I just go straight to Meguiars M205 and use the hexlogic pads?
P-Lo801
Member
Hey everyone, I searched and didn't find anything about my questions regarding ceramic coating vinyl wrap.
I want to DIY the ceramic coating on my car, since there is no paint correction that needs to be done because it's vinyl wrapped.
I've learned of Ceramic Pro, CQuartz, FuseVinylpro, and gyeon that offer products specifically designed for wraps. I'm inclined to go with one of the latter three since one doesn't have to technically be an "installer" or "dealer" to be able to purchase these, which is the case for CeramicPro.
What do you recommend from any of the three I listed above?
In terms of prepping the car, I'm planning to wash it normally using two-bucket method, then bathe it down with IPA...then from there start the ceramic coating.
Any other recommendations for ceramic coating vinyl wrap that I may be missing?
I want to DIY the ceramic coating on my car, since there is no paint correction that needs to be done because it's vinyl wrapped.
I've learned of Ceramic Pro, CQuartz, FuseVinylpro, and gyeon that offer products specifically designed for wraps. I'm inclined to go with one of the latter three since one doesn't have to technically be an "installer" or "dealer" to be able to purchase these, which is the case for CeramicPro.
What do you recommend from any of the three I listed above?
In terms of prepping the car, I'm planning to wash it normally using two-bucket method, then bathe it down with IPA...then from there start the ceramic coating.
Any other recommendations for ceramic coating vinyl wrap that I may be missing?
Have an appointment scheduled to pick may car up on the 24th. I would like to do my own ceramic coating but unfortunately it maybe a while before I can get to applying it. Looking for a product recommendation that can be applied to provide some level of protection to help keep it clean until I can get to ceramic coating it. Thinking of something like OPTIMUM NO RINSE WASH & WAX followed by OPTIMUM OPTI-SEAL. I didn't want to use something that would interfere with the Ceramic Coating if applied in a month or two. Thanks!
My car is fully wrapped in Xpel U+ and CQuartz Ti02. How does one go about reapplying ceramic on Xpel a few years down the road?
I've read that any ceramic/sealant needs to be stripped first before reapplying, and that it usually requires a light polishing, but this is in the context of bare paint not PPF. Assuming it's the same for Xpel, is it safe to use a buffer and do a light polish? It seems unsafe since it could marr the film.
E.g. is stripping really necessary, and is there a way to get great results other than polishing?
I've read that any ceramic/sealant needs to be stripped first before reapplying, and that it usually requires a light polishing, but this is in the context of bare paint not PPF. Assuming it's the same for Xpel, is it safe to use a buffer and do a light polish? It seems unsafe since it could marr the film.
E.g. is stripping really necessary, and is there a way to get great results other than polishing?
smjbh5
Member
Mrcarcrazy
In need of a shrinking gun to zap a plaid with.
Many of the DIY ceramics don’t
no. Stripping it off is not necessary for most ceramics in order to apply more of the same coating. You can add layers without issue. Check on your particular brand. But I don’t know of any that actually require it.
Mrcarcrazy
In need of a shrinking gun to zap a plaid with.
Luckily most toppers don’t last all that long. The typical suggestion is to do an isopropyl alcohol wipedown to remove and residues that might impede adhesion.
If there’s any doubt I’d contact the manufacturer. Of course their answer will have a level of CYA in it.
slade037
Member
No for Mohs. Yes for Skin.
I might have enough leftover for 1 layer of Mohs.
You could definitely do 2 cars with Skin.
joebruin77
Active Member
I like ONRWW and Opti-Seal. Both great products. The OptiSeal, which is a polymer sealant, would provide some protection. But before applying the ceramic coating, you want to remove the OptiSeal and also make sure your paint is scratch and swirl free. Most people do a paint polish/correction just prior to applying the ceramic coating. This would remove any waxes and sealants and also remove swirls and scratches. Use Carpro Eraser or Optimum Paint Prep after the Polish/correction to remove any polish residue, then apply your ceramic coating.
slade037
Member
Here is what I have left from doing my Model 3 last year. I did coat the door jams, so you would have a little more.
Burrito
Member
Question hopefully someone can answer
i debadged my car and on the front hood there is a slight circle that under flat light is noticeable.
The whole car was ceramic coated by me aside from the immediate area around the emblem. I used sunlight, fishing line and googone to remove the T and then some carpro essence polish to remove the ghost residue that was noticeable in sunlight. I didn’t think that I’d remove coating but I assume I did.
During a foam cannon wash suds stuck to everything but that spot which was bare and wouldn’t “hold” suds.
I cleaned and applied a larger than the circle application of cquk and gliss again and it helped but under the right light I still see the area looks duller. I’ll try and capture it but it’s tough. Any ideas based on the description?
i debadged my car and on the front hood there is a slight circle that under flat light is noticeable.
The whole car was ceramic coated by me aside from the immediate area around the emblem. I used sunlight, fishing line and googone to remove the T and then some carpro essence polish to remove the ghost residue that was noticeable in sunlight. I didn’t think that I’d remove coating but I assume I did.
During a foam cannon wash suds stuck to everything but that spot which was bare and wouldn’t “hold” suds.
I cleaned and applied a larger than the circle application of cquk and gliss again and it helped but under the right light I still see the area looks duller. I’ll try and capture it but it’s tough. Any ideas based on the description?
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