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Tesla Model 3 Down: Won't Power Up, and is Inaccessible

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I was responding to the fact some people believed it would only open using this method if there was no 12V power detected (e.g. the battery was dead). Just testing the hypothesis and also hopefully helping people understand how to pop the frunk on their own.

Very good. I have also let them know what the reasoning is behind it so it hopefully isn't misunderstood. We just hope Slimy Uptonogood doesn't know or watch the video.
 
Very good. I have also let them know what the reasoning is behind it so it hopefully isn't misunderstood. We just hope Slimy Uptonogood doesn't know or watch the video.

Well, even then: It serves as a friendly reminder not to store valuables in your car. It's much more likely to have a window smashed. I can't imagine Mr Uptonogood walking around with a 12V jumper looking for gold in a Model 3 frunks.

This is more of a PSA. It would be a lot worse if people thought the frunk couldn't be opened because they'd be more likely to store valuables inside. The more you know, right?
 
Lead is worse than anything in a lithium ion battery.
Only if it is handled incorrectly. Which is definitely possible in China.
Lead is toxic, but the fact that something is toxic doesn't mean it's bad. Coolant is toxic and deadly for example.


Okay, I verified this: Turns out, even without the phone nearby, the Model 3 locked, and the 12V fully charged, you can pop open the frunk with a portable power supply.
This is madness. Why the hell is it opening like that? Weren't we promised that it will not open if 12V is fineo_O
Somebody has to find that quote. Either manual, first responders manual, tweet, or something.
 
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That is so early/first responders, when there is an accident, can access the frunk to cut the battery loop. It is a safety factor.

Yah, but page 14 if the Model 3 manual says this should only work if the vehicle's 12V is off.
The following steps will not open the front trunk if the Model 3 has 12V power.
So something (wiring, SW, manual) is wrong.
 
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I really wish that Tesla had put a key somewhere, on all there cars. that would unlock car, or maybe just the frunk, even with no power.

It will require a key, that will definitely be lost in a year (as it is never used). And it will require complicated mechanism.
And the lock itself might not work after 3-5 years of nobody using it. And it looks bad.

So no. No need for mechanical key.
Tesla just has to fix the "zap here to steal cargo from frunk" problem.
 
It will require a key, that will definitely be lost in a year (as it is never used). And it will require complicated mechanism.
And the lock itself might not work after 3-5 years of nobody using it. And it looks bad.

So no. No need for mechanical key.
Tesla just has to fix the "zap here to steal cargo from frunk" problem.
The physical key back-up on my last car (it was imbedded as a little puzzle breakout from the fob) stopped working in less than 3 years. When? No idea, had never used it. I was just trying it out before the warrantee ran out to make sure it was still working. Only dealership wasn't even going to give warrantee coverage on it after they looked at it and concluded it was probably something foreign jammed in it. So I poked around it a bit myself and when it wasn't an easy fix (would have required pulling the door apart and then who knows what inside to mess with the lock, I decided "screw it" and didn't bother getting it fixed.
 
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You could take the positive lead, cut it, and put a plug with the female end on the car and the male end on the other part of the lead and keep that with your jumper pack, or hide it somewhere on the vehicle, (inside a bumper maybe). That would make it more difficult for anyone but the owner to access the frunk. I think emergency responders might just rip the frunk off anyway instead of messing with the frunk latch.
 
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The physical key back-up on my last car (it was imbedded as a little puzzle breakout from the fob) stopped working in less than 3 years. When? No idea, had never used it. I was just trying it out before the warrantee ran out to make sure it was still working. Only dealership wasn't even going to give warrantee coverage on it after they looked at it and concluded it was probably something foreign jammed in it. So I poked around it a bit myself and when it wasn't an easy fix (would have required pulling the door apart and then who knows what inside to mess with the lock, I decided "screw it" and didn't bother getting it fixed.

Yeah, that's when escalation and or 'white lies' come in handy.

"So if my dog or baby dies inside the car because the lock doesn't work, and we find it's a material defect, you as a representative for Widget Motors Corp will concede damages because you've verified it is not a material defect? Great, sign this. Or if you don't agree to the term sign here. But I will not sign the service ticket until you sign on one of the lines. At this point, I'm going to record the rest of this negotiation so there is no future misunderstandings concerning my offer to your employer."
 
Yeah, that's when escalation and or 'white lies' come in handy.

<song & dance>

You're probably not wrong there. Truth is I saw the odds as so low of it mattering I just didn't really care enough to fight this particular PITA dealership on it (I was only there because of the big airbag recall, every other time I had service done on that vehicle I'd driven a lot further to avoid them). If it's not urgent then I can wait for a slimjim to show up, if that's really that urgent then the window is coming out.
 
If I were them, and there was some reason to think the HV system needed disabled (car is crashed and mangled), I'd use my fire axe/ saw on the rear quarter panel cut loop.
That's largely my assumption, too. Or come through the frunk lid. First responders tend not to mess around worrying about stuff in the way when human health is on the line.

I'd really like to hear from practicing (or retired) first responders if there are any here to confirm what they expect the typical response will be.
 
You're probably not wrong there. Truth is I saw the odds as so low of it mattering I just didn't really care enough to fight this particular PITA dealership on it (I was only there because of the big airbag recall, every other time I had service done on that vehicle I'd driven a lot further to avoid them). If it's not urgent then I can wait for a slimjim to show up, if that's really that urgent then the window is coming out.

I based that on a true story. A new Nissan locked up it's transmission and Nissan said it wasn't covered. After verbal negotiations failed, I went for the 'safety' argument. "Luckily, nobody was injured or killed due to this material defect in your product. If you want to litigate this matter, I will not be requesting the amount of parts and labor as a settlement. For the next 48 hours, I will accept parts and labor and close the matter. After that, I will no longer accept direct communications from your company. You will contact XXXXX at XXXXX and we will negotiate a settlement. I can be reached at XXXX for the next 2 days. Thank you." This was sent to their regional HQ via registered mail and copy to the dealership. They caved quickly.

They forgot a circlip in the transmission which allowed it to lock in 2 gears. They diagnosed it as a clutch problem. They replaced the transmission and clutch.
 
Well, even then: It serves as a friendly reminder not to store valuables in your car. It's much more likely to have a window smashed. I can't imagine Mr Uptonogood walking around with a 12V jumper looking for gold in a Model 3 frunks.

This is more of a PSA. It would be a lot worse if people thought the frunk couldn't be opened because they'd be more likely to store valuables inside. The more you know, right?
I thought the owners manual had a stipulation about those jump leads being isolated/inert if the normal 12 volt system is functioning.

From page 14 of the current iteration of the manual:
Screenshot_2018-02-23-11-31-45.png
 
I still think that the solution for me is to find the smallest battery that will energize the frunk release (hopefully A123) and hide that somewhere on the underside of some part of the car. A123 should be easily concealable IMO. ..
A 12V (8 cell) AA alkaline brick will last a long time. Produces > 1 Amp output, 2-3% self discharge per year. Might even fit in the access hole area.