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Sadly, the ancient 12 Volt battery technology has not been replaced and it should. On ICE vehicles even the battery icon purpose is not known by owners. Most, don't read the car manual. In an EV this battery is a weak link and, even worse, any issues, like yours, can be puzzling. Glad it was resolved quickly and without pain.This afternoon, I opened my app to check on the Model 3's charge status. I noticed it wasn't updating and hadn't updated since before 7am, about 9 hours earlier. I went out to the car and it was completely "dead." By that I mean unresponsive with no lights or activity. Tesla was originally sending a flatbed, but because we can't get inside to put it into tow mode, we both agreed waiting for a Ranger to come on Monday would be a better option.
A quick video demonstrating what it looks like:
[[ Mod note: edited title based on OPs request to remove the term 'bricked' which caused a lot of debate. All that was known was that the car wouldn't power up, but what went wrong hasn't been determined (yet). ]]
[[ Mod note: if you want to 'cut to the chase' and skip forward we eventually got this message from MarkS22:
"Update 2:
I'm able to discuss a little more without speculating. The latest is that a firmware error was the primary contributing factor that stopped the 12V from charging as designed. A new firmware, which fixes the issue I experienced, was loaded onto the car. This appears to have remedied the error. They replaced the 12V battery (as a precaution since it was fully drained) with a brand new one and have been monitoring its charge. As of now, it's holding a charge as expected. Since I'm not in a hurry, I did say it wouldn't be a problem to keep the car over the weekend to ensure the the 12V battery behaves as expected over a longer time frame. (They'll let it sit there and monitor the charge.)
So, while it was unfortunate that it happened to me, I think it also highlights the power of the ability to rapidly update firmware in the field. In theory, this update will prevent all future cars from having the same issue." ]]
A 12V (8 cell) AA alkaline brick will last a long time. Produces > 1 Amp output, 2-3% self discharge per year. Might even fit in the access hole area.
Pretty much what I was thinking ... Although hidden somewhere else is less risky for tampering, but I will concede it is low. Another consideration is foam or bubble wrap to avoid vibrations and noises.I’m thinking you can shrink wrap a 9V, attach it to one of the leads that pulls out when you remove the cap with a nylon string. Maybe wrap it once with electrical tape around one of the wires. This way, if the 12V battery dies, you pull the wires out and have the 9V ready and waiting. With a portable jumpstarter in the frunk, you’d be on your way very quickly.
I based that on a true story. A new Nissan locked up it's transmission and Nissan said it wasn't covered. After verbal negotiations failed, I went for the 'safety' argument. "Luckily, nobody was injured or killed due to this material defect in your product. If you want to litigate this matter, I will not be requesting the amount of parts and labor as a settlement. For the next 48 hours, I will accept parts and labor and close the matter. After that, I will no longer accept direct communications from your company. You will contact XXXXX at XXXXX and we will negotiate a settlement. I can be reached at XXXX for the next 2 days. Thank you." This was sent to their regional HQ via registered mail and copy to the dealership. They caved quickly.
They forgot a circlip in the transmission which allowed it to lock in 2 gears. They diagnosed it as a clutch problem. They replaced the transmission and clutch.
I’m thinking you can shrink wrap a 9V, attach it to one of the leads that pulls out when you remove the cap with a nylon string. Maybe wrap it once with electrical tape around one of the wires. This way, if the 12V battery dies, you pull the wires out and have the 9V ready and waiting. With a portable jumpstarter in the frunk, you’d be on your way very quickly.
Sounds like it’s time to make a call to Tesla serviceHi all,
I am posting this here because my Model 3 has a blank screen that is no longer responsive and only the main automobile features are in working order, such as the doors, windows and engine, but nothing else. My phone no longer connects, the USB ports don’t work, ac is out, etc. I’ve tried to reboot the system by holding the two buttons on the steering wheel, but I get no response, even with the brake depressed. This occurred after I went to get the car washed. I am hoping that someone on this thread has any experience with such a problem and can offer advice. I was originally thinking of disconnecting and reconnecting the 12v as a hard reset but I’ve read on this forum that practice is frowned upon. I drove home and connected the charger which still works, so I’m not trying to trubleshoot this issue myself. I’m trying to avoid having Tesla service it if possible. Just don’t have the time for this right now so any ideas will be appreciated.
It's possible to skip all those small fuses and relays. But modules, that act as fuses, those modules need input power. These input cables must be fused. Or there must be a separate module with powerful semiconductors near 12V battery.From what we have heard/seen there are no user replaceable fuses.
It's possible to skip all those small fuses and relays. But modules, that act as fuses, those modules need input power. These input cables must be fused. Or there must be a separate module with powerful semiconductors near 12V battery.
For example Model S - these fuses is all that a vehicle with brains actually need.
Remember - fuses are for cables, not for electronics behind them.
My heart will rest when I see the that place on Model 3 where big fat red cable divides into 5-12 smaller ones.
The same spot as on that photo above.
My heart will rest when I see the that place on Model 3 where big fat red cable divides into 5-12 smaller ones.
The same spot as on that photo above.