pharma5
Roadster F#25, Model 3 #36xx
Yes, OK - I did that - just so people can stop throwing bricks around.
Dammit Jim, I'm a Doctor, not a bricklayer!
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Yes, OK - I did that - just so people can stop throwing bricks around.
Same issue with the main battery on mine sadly, down to 10 bars after 44K.FYI, my (well my daughter has it now) early production 2011 LEAF is still going on the original 12V battery without problems.
Never any problem with the car failing to start or "breaking down". No real service at all in 7 years other than tires, wiper blades, and washer fluid.
The degradation on the battery pack is disappointing. It is down to "9 bars" (out of 12) on the range gauge and you might say it is a "60 mile EV" now instead of "90 mile" when it was new.
Battery dropped from 10 bars to 9 bars just after the time limit Nissan offered for free replacement. I suppose I should have charged it to 100% (instead of 80%) to make the battery age faster and quality for a replacement...
This thread is totally bricked.
Honestly, if it was due to a firmware/computer issue and had no electrical response, I'd have called it "bricked" also. If it was mechanical, I would probably say "died" or "quit working." In hindsight, I'd probably only use the term "bricked" if it happened immediately following a firmware update or I had more evidence that it was firmware related.
A Fiat?What would you call an ICE vehicle if it quit working and needed service?
Maybe it's better next time to wait until a solution has been found to the problem and THEN start a thread, with a less emotive heading, clearly explaining the problem/solution and rectification.
A simple "Google" and all the talks with your friendly Tesla tech would have given a pretty clear indication of the problem.
For example:
Last week, true story, my FWD sensors all stopped working and my FWD's fully opened in my usual "restricted height" parking spot. I tried all the resets possible from the car that I knew of and finally called Tesla Tech in Fremont. I'm in Perth, Western Australia. Tech support is always very helpful and they could see an error logged for the FWD's. "Andrew" asked around the room at Fremont and sent a remote reset which didn't instantly fix my problem but guess what, in the morning it was all good. I've never had another car I've ever owned remote fixed like that.
More to the point, I didn't feel the need to jump straight on TMC and tell the whole world my MX FWD's were a POS and don't work thus feeding the trolls. In fact, until know, I didn't feel the need to post it anywhere, although I have told a few friends I didn't need to book my car in at a legacy car maker franchise and waste a day of my life with no car trying to get a spurious electrical issue fixed.
Non-owner question I've been curious about but have never asked; Are over-the-air updates from Tesla automatically patched in? If so, are you notified that it's happened and how?
A Fiat?
Robin
What's the typical patch time, or does it vary widely and they give you an estimate so you can judge whether to initiate it or put it off?They’re downloaded to the car and then your given the option to install them immediately or schedule them. But, yes, you are clearly notified. If you have notifications set on your app, it will tell you a software update is waiting.
If the 12v battery dies (including just running out of charge) on an old ICE car, the car is unusable too. The dash lights don't come on, the gas engine won't start, But the Model 3 feels a bit "more dead" when that happens. The charge plug stuck in the charge port is frustrating. The doors don't have any keyhole to open the doors manually. The center screen is such a prominent feature, that having it stay off makes the car seem "more dead".
Tesla really designed this vehicle to be user friendly only when it is powered up...
( We are still just assuming that this could be explained by 12v failure. Just guessing... )
OK, so basically like my phone.
What's the typical patch time, or does it vary widely and they give you an estimate so you can judge whether to initiate it or put it off?
If the 12v battery dies (including just running out of charge) on an old ICE car, the car is unusable too. ... But the Model 3 feels a bit "more dead" when that happens.
Because grammaring be uneasy.And why is nobody complaining about my other major typos like using “unaccessable “ instead of “inaccessible?”
Except in this case, unlike Leaf and most ICEVs: the charging connector is still locked to the car. the OP is unable to get into the car with their phone and the backup key cards and there is no mechanical key nor corresponding key hole (that we're aware of).Same issue with the main battery on mine sadly, down to 10 bars after 44K.
I'm also on the original 12V as well.
I mentioned my Leaf in this thread because the thread title will attract the usual folks, who have already posted about Tesla needing to test this stuff before releasing a product etc etc.
Sometimes things happen or circumstances conspire to that make a perfectly functioning car and 12V battery to fail to work.as expected.
Its not poor design or bad planning - it just happens and happens to ICE cars as well.
@MarkS22 is comfortable waiting for the ranger, he's allowed to do that and doesn't need to explain. Yet so many folks want to make this a huge deal.
Its not just a Tesla Model 3 issue - and its trivial to fix, just recharge the 12V and move on - hardly worth all the hand wringing.
FROZEN SOLIDWhat would you call an ICE vehicle if it quit working and needed service?