Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Tesla now repairing MCU1 with a new Tegra card for less than $500

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I had mobile service replace both front swaybar end links out of warranty. There was a 30 min diagnosis charge, the tech ordered the parts, and came back to replace them ($95 parts, plus another half hour of labor). <$275 total. Mobile service labor rate was $175/hr vs $195/hr at the Service Center.

Damn that labor rate is crazy. My car is out of warranty and I'm mulling getting the xcare warranty. How do they calculate the labor rate. What if your car is at the SC for a few days
 
Damn that labor rate is crazy. My car is out of warranty and I'm mulling getting the xcare warranty. How do they calculate the labor rate. What if your car is at the SC for a few days

I'd get it if they cover drive unit and battery, but now with the cheap MCU fix Im not sure if having it to cover the DC converter and charger is really worth it. Other than those 2 things everything else that fails seems pretty reasonable, now, to replace/repair.
 
I'd get it if they cover drive unit and battery, but now with the cheap MCU fix Im not sure if having it to cover the DC converter and charger is really worth it. Other than those 2 things everything else that fails seems pretty reasonable, now, to replace/repair.
YMMV, but I've had a variety of random stuff fail after my original 4yr warranty expired but before my 8yr extended warranty expired. This MCU issue, both wing mirrors, clunking steering rack again (4th time's the charm?), and a rear suspension failure that was making the drivetrain noisy. I'm well over warranty cost already and I still have 1.5yrs to go.

I think a good bet now is to think about how reliable your car has been, and to assume it continues at that rate. If you've had few problems, skip it. If you've had as many problems as mine, it's worth considering.
 
YMMV, but I've had a variety of random stuff fail after my original 4yr warranty expired but before my 8yr extended warranty expired. This MCU issue, both wing mirrors, clunking steering rack again (4th time's the charm?), and a rear suspension failure that was making the drivetrain noisy. I'm well over warranty cost already and I still have 1.5yrs to go.

I think a good bet now is to think about how reliable your car has been, and to assume it continues at that rate. If you've had few problems, skip it. If you've had as many problems as mine, it's worth considering.
Some cars are built Monday morning still nursing a hangover, or Friday evening just before quitting time. That's what warranties are for. :p
 
  • Funny
Reactions: DOCAL and tga
I'd get it if they cover drive unit and battery, but now with the cheap MCU fix Im not sure if having it to cover the DC converter and charger is really worth it. Other than those 2 things everything else that fails seems pretty reasonable, now, to replace/repair.
It seems like many of the DC-DC and charger "failures" are actually blown fuses, which can be fixed cheaply/easily by DIY/third party.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gaswalla
It seems like many of the DC-DC and charger "failures" are actually blown fuses, which can be fixed cheaply/easily by DIY/third party.

Yes agreed, but it requires a bit more skill then other repairs which may turn off some people. Personally, out of warranty, I'd do it myself. Hence I really dont think the 4-5k price tag of that warranty is really worth it anymore. Other than a problem prone car like previously mentioned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tga
Yes agreed, but it requires a bit more skill then other repairs which may turn off some people. Personally, out of warranty, I'd do it myself. Hence I really dont think the 4-5k price tag of that warranty is really worth it anymore. Other than a problem prone car like previously mentioned.
Agree, 100%. For those wondering what we're talking about - Car Unable to Charge (sorry, getting OT)
 
Thanks @reddy. Was all of your data kept intact (settings, nav locations, etc), or did you lose it?

It appears that replacing the daughterboard was not successful. They were not able to fully restore all the necessary firmware to control the center screen backlighting. They claim that the screen is on, and active, but is black because the MCU can't control the lighting circuit. There apparently is firmware that they can update to do that, but the Tesla service people were unable to get it installed remotely after 4 attempts.

Service has now declared that I need the full MCU replacement. The decision now is whether I get a reman MCU1 vs a new MCU2, how much will that cost, and when can they do it. I'm told that the reman MCU1 is extremely hard to get, and an MCU2 would be faster. My counter is that I have already waited over 2 months and have demonstrated a large amount of patience that has reached its limit.

It's not clear to me if the daughterboard failure is due to a problem with my MCU1, the fact this was the first daughterboard replacement this tech has ever performed, or the fact that Tesla wouldn't let the tech stay on site to do the updates but was trying to install them over the air.

Add my humble opinion that it was insane to send the Ranger without a MCU1 also. They should have a 'Plan B' contingency if the daughterboard fails that doesn't mean me waiting another 2 - 4 weeks minimum. They should have had an MCU1 in hand in case this happens.

So, for those waiting for Rangers to replace their daughterboard, they may want to consider that a Service Center is more likely to get the job done right the first time.

Tesla was finally able to turn off my AC today. Here is what my screen looks like now.

Factory Mode.jpg
 
It appears that replacing the daughterboard was not successful. They were not able to fully restore all the necessary firmware to control the center screen backlighting. They claim that the screen is on, and active, but is black because the MCU can't control the lighting circuit. There apparently is firmware that they can update to do that, but the Tesla service people were unable to get it installed remotely after 4 attempts.

If you shine a really bright flashlight at the screen you should be able to see if that is true or not. If it is I wonder if a connector/cable to the screen got messed up during the disassembly/re-assembly process. That seems like the most likely cause to me. In which case they should be able to just replace the screen.
 
If you shine a really bright flashlight at the screen you should be able to see if that is true or not. If it is I wonder if a connector/cable to the screen got messed up during the disassembly/re-assembly process. That seems like the most likely cause to me. In which case they should be able to just replace the screen.

I don't see anything on the screen, even with an intense LED flashlight. You may be correct, but Tesla has decided they are changing out the MCU.

The car is now drivable. Now that they have gotten the AC to turn off, it won't turn back on. Not very conducive to driving here in Texas in August.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Rider668
I'm told that the reman MCU1 is extremely hard to get, and an MCU2 would be faster. My counter is that I have already waited over 2 months and have demonstrated a large amount of patience that has reached its limit.

This is what I was told when my MCU1 died in July. SC ordered MCU2 part on Aug/3, but still waiting for the part..

MCU INTEL UPGRADE-For TegraAP1.0 - NORTH AMERICA
Part #: 9874564-00-A
Order Date: August 3, 2020
Ship Date: Pending
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: SUM-EV
It appears that replacing the daughterboard was not successful. They were not able to fully restore all the necessary firmware to control the center screen backlighting. They claim that the screen is on, and active, but is black because the MCU can't control the lighting circuit. There apparently is firmware that they can update to do that, but the Tesla service people were unable to get it installed remotely after 4 attempts.

Service has now declared that I need the full MCU replacement. The decision now is whether I get a reman MCU1 vs a new MCU2, how much will that cost, and when can they do it. I'm told that the reman MCU1 is extremely hard to get, and an MCU2 would be faster. My counter is that I have already waited over 2 months and have demonstrated a large amount of patience that has reached its limit.

It's not clear to me if the daughterboard failure is due to a problem with my MCU1, the fact this was the first daughterboard replacement this tech has ever performed, or the fact that Tesla wouldn't let the tech stay on site to do the updates but was trying to install them over the air.

Add my humble opinion that it was insane to send the Ranger without a MCU1 also. They should have a 'Plan B' contingency if the daughterboard fails that doesn't mean me waiting another 2 - 4 weeks minimum. They should have had an MCU1 in hand in case this happens.

So, for those waiting for Rangers to replace their daughterboard, they may want to consider that a Service Center is more likely to get the job done right the first time.

Tesla was finally able to turn off my AC today. Here is what my screen looks like now.

View attachment 581741

Thats werid. Other than physical trama we have not ran across a MCU we cant repair with a new eMMC memory chip (basically a new daughterboard.)
 
My MCU died and the AC wouldnt shut off, so I dropped my car at the service center. They just emailed me and mentioned they ordered a part.


Anyone know what this is? It looks a bit different than the part numbers I’m seeing here.


Parts Ordered
  1. PCBA, MCU, TEGRA3 SKU8 DAUGHTER BOARD
    Part #: 1006158-00-A
    Order Date: August 28, 2020
 
My MCU died and the AC wouldnt shut off, so I dropped my car at the service center. They just emailed me and mentioned they ordered a part.


Anyone know what this is? It looks a bit different than the part numbers I’m seeing here.


Parts Ordered
  1. PCBA, MCU, TEGRA3 SKU8 DAUGHTER BOARD
    Part #: 1006158-00-A
    Order Date: August 28, 2020

Appears to be the original tegra board with the 8GB eMMC. Not certain but if that is the case you are better off with the new design with the larger chip.