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The agony of a 10yo Model S 85 with 300 000+ km

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For those who want to know what to expect on their road past 10 years and 330 000 km (205,000 miles) with their Model S, here’s our story, especially the last 12 months before returning the car to Tesla.

[TL;DR]: My advice to old/high-milage Model S owners: sell it before it’s too late, because if/when the battery and the motor are both failing, your car is worth peanuts. I suggest not to push your luck much beyond 250 000 km (150,000 miles), although I read about some people having the same kind of problems with lower millage.

Sorry in advance for the long post. Prices mentioned are in Canadian dollars (~0.75 USD).

Having this car has been a great experience and a privilege, as it was the only electric car able to drive 400+ km in the early days, and it was still a pleasure to drive until the end. We had very nice trips with it, including a few in remote areas at a time when it was not so simple to charge, so we sometimes slept in the car while charging on RV plugs in camp grounds. Or highjack 240V heater circuits with my own plugs to be able to charge overnight! Also, we could fit a 30” oven, a dryer, or a double-size mattress in the trunk, to the astonishment of the people we were helping moving!

Of course, it came with some weaknesses, especially the suspension which needed repairs quite often, for a few thousand dollars each time. But we already knew that when we purchased the car: it’s too heavy for its fancy adjustable air suspension. Last repairs involved changing the rear air suspension on both sides less than a year ago. Then the other main weakness: we had about 10-12 door handle problems, 5 of them were changed on warranty, one @ 1300$ by Tesla, the rest using 3-5$ microswitches from Digikey and 2-3h of my time (because I’m slow). We had two charge port replacements, the second one about a year ago (see below). We also had two wiper mechanism changes over the life of the car, the second one less than a year ago, together with the tailgate lift supports. I had to have the main screen changed for 3000$ in 2019, but got reimbursed following the class action. And the heating system failed at some point. I was able to change the unit for used one at 60$ on Ebay and 3-4h of my time, and asked VE|MTL to change the fuse in the DC-DC unit, which was about 400$. (Opening it involves disconnecting cooling fluid hoses and stuff beyond what I can do at home.) I also changed the headlights once. That’s what comes to my mind. Since 2020, most repairs I couldn’t do myself were done at VE|MTL. If you’re in the Montreal area, I strongly recommend this place, where you can talk to the guys who actually repair your car. What a brilliant concept ;-).

Then, starting about a year ago, we started to have all sorts of problems.
  • At least three times, the adjustable air suspension got stuck either nose down/tail up, or the other way around. Two instances were due to wires touching each other somewhere under the car, but at different places. The other involved changing the rear air suspension shocks, which qualifies as normal wear.
  • The second wiper mechanism change already mention, together with the tailgate lift supports. Let’s put that in the normal wear category.
  • Last summer, I was stupid enough to see that the handle of the home charger was overheating but kept using it, until it melted one into the socket. So I ended up having to change both, for nearly 2k$, also about a year ago. The culprit was the home charger since it would not overheat elsewhere. I purchased the charger in 2015 so I guess it’s normal wear.
  • During a trip last summer, while crossing a semitruck on a small road, we received a rock in the windshield, which cracked beyond repair. They were still backorder (at least at VE|MTL) when we exchanged the car almost a year later.
  • A year ago, the motor started making a slight grinding noise when taking off. Not too much, but it was slowly increasing. It’s due to the windings in the rotor that expand over time and start touching the stator, especially when a lot of current passes through them. Nothing to do but replace it. The guys at VE|MTL told me to just live with it and refrain from accelerating full-throttle. It would not fail abruptly, just degrade slowly up to a point where the motor has to be changed. And it’s sealed/glued in some stuff, so they couldn’t really open it to somehow repair it. (They tried.) Again, normal wear.
  • A bearing needed to be replaced 3 months ago, but that one can be considered normal wear.
  • The charging power at superchargers, which used to be above 100 kW when the SOC was below 50%, clearly decreased suddenly maybe 2-3 years ago, and continued to decrease down to 60 kW at a SOC of 25%, and 40 kW at a SOC of 50%, lately. This started to make trips significantly longer. And let say that this was not “as advertised”. But I understand.
  • For the 10th anniversary of the car (February), we started having a couple of times a series of errors: GTW_w036, ESP_w003, ESP_w002, DI_w124, EPB_w050, GTW_w027, GTW_w104, , GTW_w105, GTW_w025, GTW_037, EPAS_w002, DI_w039. Some of these errors involved having no power steering and power brake of parking brake. But fortunately, they happened close to home or in the driveway. And the errors would go away by themselves or by shutting down the car. That’s until 2 months ago, when it did that in the driveway, without any possibility to shut down the car: the screen would just turn on again immediately, without rebooting. Disconnecting many fuses or even the 12V battery would not solve the problem. At some point, I was momentarily able to put the car in Reverse just before everything failed again. This time, the car remained engaged in Reverse, but still on Park, with no reactions whatsoever from pushing on the stalk. I could feel the car forcing against the Park brakes when pushing slightly on the accelerator. Then I made the error of leaving the car and close the door: since the car thought it was driving (in Reverse), there was no way to access the car again! I finally found that I could semi-open the frunk, then open it with the lever, and then play with the fuses until at some point, I was able to open the tailgate and access the front door from inside to open it. And then leave the window open to be able to access the inside door handle at any time. At this point, the car would remain in Reverse (but with the parking brakes on) despite disconnecting the 12V battery or playing with the stalk during the boot sequence after reconnecting the 12V battery. Obviously, this was a Friday PM, and VE|MTL were closed until Monday, so the car basically remained on Reverse all weekend. No way to charge it because the car thought it was driving, but the SOC was relatively high, and I disconnected the fuse of most subsystems, central screen, headlights, etc. so there was little power consumption. The cherry on the sundae: the car was stuck in front of our garage door where the other car was. What a nightmare!! At that point (and because of what comes next), I was ready to bring the car to the scrap yard, if ever they wanted it. Monday finally came, I had the car towed on a platform (still on Reverse!) to VE|MTL. They realized that it was the TPMS antenna (1st generation Baolong) that had failed and was bringing down several other subsystems with it. They just disconnected it: problem solved! But this and the wire degradation mentioned above and other repairs are signs that this Californian car is not built for areas using salt on roads during winter, and that the car was suffering from corrosion at several places, while not apparent since the body is made of aluminum.
  • Then, the last (and biggest) nail in the coffin: the battery. Last summer (2022), while on a trip in the Maritimes, we ran out of batteries with 7 km of range at some point, 300 m away from a supercharger. I already had that 2-3 years ago at 4 km, but before that, I drove the car a few times down to 1-2 km or range before charging without problems. At the time of the 4-km failure, we were told by Tesla not to go below 10 km of range anymore, so my bad going down to 7 km. Then 2 months ago, I went from Montreal to Chicago and back. During the trip, I arrived at superchargers with 15 km of range a couple of times without issue. But on my way back, at the top of a not-so-steep but long hill in Ontario, the car decided to stop with *30 km* of range left, and 10 km away from the next charger. After being towed to the supercharger, I could reach home without further issues, although not going below 60 km of range anymore! The next day, we did another 400 km trip without trouble. But the next morning, surprise: “Max charge level reduced. OK to drive. Schedule service” (BMS_u029). This is bad, and basically means you have to replace the battery. A refurbished one is 27k$, with was out of the question, given the age of the car and the other problems. Following a discussion with the guys at VE|MTL (whom I appreciate very much, did I mention), we concluded that it was not worth trying opening the battery to find the defective modules, as this would cost several thousand dollars of their time. One thing they could do though is to downgrade the software/firmware to a version from 2020, which is more tolerant to battery degradation. That’s what I opted for. Now this smells like post-programmed obsolescence, just after the 8-year warranty is over. But I guess Tesla would argue they do that to avoid batteries catching fire or whatever. And anyway, the battery had clearly entered its fast degradation regime, see below.
  • One last problem showed up (did I need it): the central screen was becoming very slow, up to a point where it would not turn on anymore. It happened to be a problem with the SD card on the central compute, which contains the navigation maps. Given that we already ordered the new car, VE|MTL just removed it, which means we could still see the map on the screen with the traffic, etc., but navigation would not work. I was fine with it, could use a phone instead, and figure out myself how much range I would need for a trip, especially given that the car would not take into account that it could not go below 15% SOC anymore.
At my last attempt to charge the car to 100% a few days before the exchange, it stopped charging at 348 km of range. And while not stopping on the side of the road (thanks to the older software version), I was experiencing clear power reduction around 55 km of range. This left us with less than 290 km of actual/usable range. This is down from about 360 km 6 months ago, and from 425 km when the car was new. The graph below shows the range as a function of the car millage over its life. The blue points represent the displayed range at 100% charge, orange ones are considering that I could not drive the car below a certain range. The battery had clearly reached its knee point and entered its fast degradation regime in the last 50 000 km (30,000 miles).

Namely because of the battery and motor problems, I could not sell it to anyone. Finding no one interested to part it out for 10-13k$, we accepted the exchange offered by Tesla, and took delivery of brand-new Model 3 SR+. Other 2013 Model S with 200 000 km sell for 25k$, and we’ve put >10k$ in repairs in the last 12 months. Would we have returned the car a year ago, we would have saved about 20k$.

So my advice: sell your old/high-milage Model S before you get into that kind of trouble.

Still, it was a great pleasure to drive it until the end. I’ll miss my Californian car, as I used to call her. After a few days, I’m getting used to the Shanghainese one. Lots of nice features, it drives well, and accelerates well even if it’s “only” a RWD SR+. Regaining some battery range and speed of charge is definitely a relief. But it’s quite stiff, and I miss the comfort of the air suspension of the old one, despite the fact it has been so much trouble.

RangeGeorgette.png
 
Is the s a good buy since tax credit?
That's subjective. In my opinion, the Model S has never been a "good buy". It's very expensive and drives like a boat. 🤪

The Model 3 is a good value with tax credits right now. That value will get even better over time. I suspect the Model 3 (or it's replacement) will sell for less than $30k in a decade.
 
Opinion on the Y? I bought one but having hard time looking out of rear window when making a turn
Why are you looking out the rear window when making a turn? You should be looking out the front and side windows.

The Y had about the worst visibility out the rear window of any car I’ve owned. It also has the best camera view so it’s rarely if ever an issue for me.

If you have your wing mirrors adjusted properly they will cover your blind spots. That combined with the display has negated the reduced rear window view for me.
 
Is the s a good buy since tax credit?
New Model S has many improvements and should have less issues than early ones. That said, the Model 3/Y does not have air suspension and other Model S/X features that will eventually need repairs, and the 3/Y are eligible for the US tax credit. This makes the 3/Y the best value for the money, IMO.

However, the Model S is also a "good buy" without tax credits. To buy a car with equivalent performance to a Plaid would cost 2-10 times as much money. I also like the LR, which is still a very good performer and offers more range than the Plaid. IMO the Model S LR is a "good buy" compared to other cars in its price range, and the preferred Model S to buy for most people.

GSP
 
It is really a pity that T doesn't have feasible full-battery-replacement methodology. Given how uniquely vulnerable to degradation, as well as potentially very recyclable their own battery packs could be.. I guess a cynic could opine that other things wearing out at the same time just means Tesla's greedy planned obsolescence. I would have hoped for better. And thank-you for this calm, plain, factually detailed account.
 
It is really a pity that T doesn't have feasible full-battery-replacement methodology.
What makes you think they don’t? Seems like cars that need replacements can get them from Tesla or an emerging third party support network.
Given how uniquely vulnerable to degradation, as well as potentially very recyclable their own battery packs could be..
They aren’t “potentially” very recyclable. They ARE very recyclable, and already actively recycled.
 
Is it really a mystery?
Fast charging is stressful and heat generating. Their data showed that was a problem. Seems pretty cut and dry.
They also discovered that batteries that get old can catch fire when charging so they tightened the tolerances a bit and hence we are getting BMS_u029 more often. That is better than a fire and better than dying on the side of the road.
They also slowed down regen in cooler temps over the years - presumably because of data.

I am no Tesla fanboy. I will not ever buy one again. But some of this stuff is expected learning curve and I don't fault Tesla for it that much.
Now - their customer service is insulting. They aren't doing well enough to support older cars. Their aspirational statements are just lies. And Musk ...

But learning how to protect older batteries is helpful and necessary.

OP - curious what the exchange offer was.
Customer care is insulting is a gentle way to put it. Older cars ? They’re not doing anything to support new cars !
I’ve a M3 (11/22). Infotainment works 1/3 times if I’m lucky. Been with Tesla customer care a couple dozen times. All I get from them is a “future software update will fix it”. That future could be tomorrow, next year or 5 years from now. No one knows.
Tesla is over rated. Kudos to them for starting the electric revolution but now there are some really compelling alternatives.
Only 1 thing that they’ve a HUGE advantage on : SC network.
 
The stopping before the range is well below zero is a clue to the car/BMS overestimating the capacity and underestimating the degradation.

How have ypu charged the car during these years? Always 80-90% ?

How much supercharging have you done (percent of miles?)
@AAKEE
Got 2 questions :
1. Is supercharging without pre conditioning bad for the battery ? I know that the charging speeds are throttled to save the battery but I’d like to know what’s better for the battery. Throttled super charging without pre conditioned battery or ”real” supercharging with a pre conditioned battery ? I go with the first option (once a week to charge my LFP M3 to 100% - don’t have home charging) to buy some time while supercharging.

2. Do you agree with the following table (for an LFP pack)?

Thanks a lot for your help !
 

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@AAKEE
Got 2 questions :
1. Is supercharging without pre conditioning bad for the battery ? I know that the charging speeds are throttled to save the battery but I’d like to know what’s better for the battery. Throttled super charging without pre conditioned battery or ”real” supercharging with a pre conditioned battery ? I go with the first option (once a week to charge my LFP M3 to 100% - don’t have home charging) to buy some time while supercharging.

We do not know for sure. Of course Tesla moderate the charging speed but there will also be some kund of lowest acceptable charging speed, from the customer and also the possible que situation. Slow charging causes longer wait.

I know from research that lithium plating happens at modest charging rates if not heated.
This is not a NCA battery. I do not remember the chemistry, but in the big scenario most lithium ion batteries is about the same. 1C will be 78kW charging for a 78kWh battery.
4DAF4324-84B9-4193-BE33-BBC97834D122.jpeg


Of course Tesla adjust the charging speed for a cold battery. But as we so not know, we can only make sure we do it as good as possible if Tesla accepts a little increased lithium plating with cold battery.
From research its known that preheating to 40C or above pretty much eliminate the lithium plating for the charging rates we use. We will not loose anything from preheating the battery, except a few bucks on electricity.

My own takeaway is ”always precondition completely if possible”

2. Do you agree with the following table (for an LFP pack)?

Thanks a lot for your help !

This below is for reducing degradation. The battery will survive anyway so no need to do anything other than the manual if ypu do not wich to reduce the degradation.

LFP’s do not suffer from large cycles like 100-0%. Cyclic aging still is very small.
You do not need to adjust the charging level due to this.

So, for LFP= charge to 100% at least once a week (to keep the BMS happy and in good track of the battery SOC).

Other than that, avoid having more than 70% for extended periods.
Calendar aging still works as before, so the battery would rather stay low.
E9493B79-82B3-4445-AB1C-8C84D0D97D38.jpeg

As long as you are going to drive 30% or more, you can charge to 100% if you charge late.
If not using the car or driving short drives, stay at 70% as long as it is enough u til the next charge


LFP’s is fine using the same principle as other lithium batteries:

-Charge often
-Do not charge more than needed (plus a personal margin)
-Charge late, so the car is ready shortly before the drive.
(+the 100% at least once a week)
 
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We do not know for sure. Of course Tesla moderate the charging speed but there will also be some kund of lowest acceptable charging speed, from the customer and also the possible que situation. Slow charging causes longer wait.

I know from research that lithium plating happens at modest charging rates if not heated.
This is not a NCA battery. I do not remember the chemistry, but in the big scenario most lithium ion batteries is about the same. 1C will be 78kW charging for a 78kWh battery.
View attachment 948233

Of course Tesla adjust the charging speed for a cold battery. But as we so not know, we can only make sure we do it as good as possible if Tesla accepts a little increased lithium plating with cold battery.
From research its known that preheating to 40C or above pretty much eliminate the lithium plating for the charging rates we use. We will not loose anything from preheating the battery, except a few bucks on electricity.

My own takeaway is ”always precondition completely if possible”



This below is for reducing degradation. The battery will survive anyway so no need to do anything other than the manual if ypu do not wich to reduce the degradation.

LFP’s do not suffer from large cycles like 100-0%. Cyclic aging still is very small.
You do not need to adjust the charging level due to this.

So, for LFP= charge to 100% at least once a week (to keep the BMS happy and in good track of the battery SOC).

Other than that, avoid having more than 70% for extended periods.
Calendar aging still works as before, so the battery would rather stay low.
View attachment 948240
As long as you are going to drive 30% or more, you can charge to 100% if you charge late.
If not using the car or driving short drives, stay at 70% as long as it is enough u til the next charge


LFP’s is fine using the same principle as other lithium batteries:

-Charge often
-Do not charge more than needed (plus a personal margin)
-Charge late, so the car is ready shortly before the drive.
(+the 100% at least once a week)
Thanks a lot ! Really appreciate it.
 
The problem here is that Tesla didn’t care about the state of the car, sent it to auction where it was sold for what you got to a dealer that is marking it up a bit and sells it “as is”.
Who is at fault if that car catches fire in the new owner’s garage? In such cases a file to Transport Canada seems the right call.
Are you saying no details are revealed at an auction, and so no details passed on by the dealer to new buyer. Never buy, never from a steelership. Humans just can't be trusted, If you get ripped off its your fault, not the criminal's. Steakerships are allowed to not disclose, it the law, it's as is. You can be stupid ... stupid is as stupid does.
 
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Dude. That’s one car.

What percentage of 2014 Teslas are still on the road?

What percentage of original Roadsters are still on the road?

Exactly.
So, there is no "exactly" available (unless you are pretending that you know the %, not sure what the word "exactly" is supposed to mean there) for the number of 2014 Teslas still on the road.

Here is some statistics that may help you with your logic though:


The original Roadster batteries are lasting 50% longer than originally anticipated. Strangely, the "upgraded" cells from 2016 are not lasting as long as the originals! How crazy? Plenty still on the road:

ICE cars last ~200k miles. EVs last 300-400k. We even have one at 750k and still running strong! Yes, there are outliers for both EVs and ICE vehicles. Some have issues from day 1 on, and others will hit the million mile club. The mean and average are what matters. EV is ahead of ICE.

So, evaluate the data as you see fit, but from an objective viewpoint, an EV will last longer than an ICE car.
 
So, there is no "exactly" available (unless you are pretending that you know the %, not sure what the word "exactly" is supposed to mean there) for the number of 2014 Teslas still on the road.

Here is some statistics that may help you with your logic though:


The original Roadster batteries are lasting 50% longer than originally anticipated. Strangely, the "upgraded" cells from 2016 are not lasting as long as the originals! How crazy? Plenty still on the road:

ICE cars last ~200k miles. EVs last 300-400k. We even have one at 750k and still running strong! Yes, there are outliers for both EVs and ICE vehicles. Some have issues from day 1 on, and others will hit the million mile club. The mean and average are what matters. EV is ahead of ICE.

So, evaluate the data as you see fit, but from an objective viewpoint, an EV will last longer than an ICE car.

Doesn't this "number of miles" metric neglect the "number of years" though?

Not trying to argue, just trying to confirm my understanding. I'm still very "pro-EV", but my understanding is that while it's definitely possible to get *far* more miles out of an EV, calendar aging is not so kind.

So while a brand new ICE vehicle could be stored in a garage for many years and come out still driving like new (perhaps some oil coagulation would need to be addressed), a brand new EV stored for many years will likely need a battery replacement... even if the battery only had a few miles driven on it.
 
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This is normal. Tesla / Drew Banglino has acknowledged that they have learned a lot from 10+ years of manufacturing. Long story short, they had overengineered a lot of things as well as they underdeveloped others.

OP's MS has been updated immensely over the years. Not much, if anything, exists in current builds.

Frankly, with all that OP specified, I am shocked that this car has gone this long. I see it as a success story although not full of roses.
 
Doesn't this "number of miles" metric neglect the "number of years" though?

Not trying to argue, just trying to confirm my understanding. I'm still very "pro-EV", but my understanding is that while it's definitely possible to get *far* more miles out of an EV, calendar aging is not so kind.

So while a brand new ICE vehicle could be stored in a garage for many years and come out still driving like new (perhaps some oil coagulation would need to be addressed), a brand new EV stored for many years will likely need a battery replacement... even if the battery only had a few miles driven on it.
I think you mean negate, correct? EVs do have a shelf life... in a way. It is probably better thought of as battery degradation over time I think.

So, if you want consistent miles, go with an EV, if you want the same car for decades, you probably want an ICE car as of now.

I used to deal with classic cars a bit, and any engine not being ran for 6+ months needed to go through storage prep. This is for older cars, I am not sure about cars newer than the 1980's. Even still, a high end engine rebuild would be significantly cheaper than a new batter currently... depending on the car. A new battery starts at ~$10k and can go up to $20k I think. In contrast, a $10k engine replacement would be an insane engine... add the transmission and we are probably starting to get to that $10k price tag.

So, theorizing here, and a bit in jest, but let's say you want to mothball that classic Plaid lol; The first of the muscle EVs. You would probably want to prep it, and all I think you would need to do is remove the battery and the 12v battery. Then, in 25-40 years when you want to "reveal" that original Plaid with no miles you would want to install new cells (maybe nuclear by then) in the original battery pack (gota keep it numbers matching of course). So, compared to what you would need to do to mothball a new ICE vehicle it is a bigger ordeal. That said... who is going to want some ancient tech like that? These are not 1970 GTOs, they are more comparable to iPhone; no one wants the classics... Of course, I may be wrong!
 
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