The TesLorean

[DrJeff]

The TesLorean project is to integrate technology (including the drive unit) from a Model S into a DeLorean DMC-12. The DeLorean is rear-wheel drive and rear engined.

This isn't going to be easy or quick, but it is going to be fun. On the exterior it will - to the casual observer - appear to be a DeLorean (there's only one model), but underneath the stainless steel skin will be as much Tesla Model S as I can cram in. I've got a 7in tablet in the cabin, a Tesla 17in would have meant no room for a passenger

After much deliberation I've selected the Model S 70D rear motor as the drive unit. It (probably) fits in the DeLorean engine bay and has a transmission configuration that (should) replace the DeLorean transmission - key is a drive shaft route to the rear wheels.

I'll be using this thread to document all the project trials and tribulations...

 

[DrJeff]

Figuring out the Bosch iBooster brake system (autopilot cars) - Starting with Physical Wiring

The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Four wires run between the ECU and the pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic.



Only 12 wires in the 26 pin connector. The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?) . Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN).

The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Solid red is the heavier gauge.

The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.

 

[DrJeff]

Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring

The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). I suspect these might come from the DC-DC converter (but need to confirm). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.



In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown. These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red. None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.



Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.
Attached Thumbnails

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Don't forget the flux capacitor

 

[bint2k]

This is incredible! Can't wait to see it finished

 

[Johan]

Wow! If you get this thing working and street legal I'll be VERY impressed!

 

[scaesare]

This project is full of win!

 

[Skotty]

I've always thought transplanting an EV drivetrain into a DeLorean is a great idea. The DeLorean was a cool car -- still is -- but it's engine was lacking even back in the 80's. Nothing would bring a DeLorean back to the future like an EV drivetrain!

 

[GregRF]

Awesome!

Can you provide a little more background/scope? Do you have an entire parts car? Are you planning on controlling the motor via all tesla parts or replacing the "brains" of the AC controller? And where is the battery going?

Looking forward to following along. Best of Luck.

 

[tga]

Very cool!

In honor of JB Straubel and his electric Porsche 944 that started it all, I've been giving serious thought to transplanting a Tesla drivetrain into a dead 944 out in my garage. Will definitely follow this thread!

 

[FlatSix911]

The TesLorean project is to integrate technology (including the drive unit) from a Model S into a DeLorean DMC-12. The DeLorean is rear-wheel drive and rear engined.

This isn't going to be easy or quick, but it is going to be fun. On the exterior it will - to the casual observer - appear to be a DeLorean (there's only one model), but underneath the stainless steel skin will be as much Tesla Model S as I can cram in. I've got a 7in tablet in the cabin, a Tesla 17in would have meant no room for a passenger

After much deliberation I've selected the Model S 70D rear motor as the drive unit. It (probably) fits in the DeLorean engine bay and has a transmission configuration that (should) replace the DeLorean transmission - key is a drive shaft route to the rear wheels.

I'll be using this thread to document all the project trials and tribulations...

View attachment 168526 View attachment 168527

Sounds like a great project ... looking forward to progress updates.

 

[DrJeff]

Skotty : The stock Delorean is estimated to have about 105hp at the wheels (maybe 115hp at the flywheel). While I'm using only one motor out of the 70D, it shoud (given a suitable battery design) provide much greater HP (maybe 250hp) than original. Very customized DeLorean engines (known as PRV 2.8L) can get up to 250, and to get higher you have to go LS1 or other modern engine. With the torque available from the EV it should be very fun to drive.

GregRF : I've been buying all the key EV bits piecemeal (although so far all from the same car). It was always a toss up of getting my own salvage Tesla or buying bits from others. I went the buying bits from others route. While I don't have the best baseline to figure out how everything was connected - I also don't have to deal with the many bits of a Model S I have no use for. How to control the motor is a pending question, but there are multiple routes - all with some difficulty but still promising. I haven't yet decided to use a Tesla battery - with the biggest issue being battery module size. While I'll have a lot of space left in the engine bay (the 70D drive unit is considerably smaller than the Delorean PRV engine and transmission), I want to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and to keep the weight distribution as close to the stock Delorean design as possible. The DMC-12 had 40% front, and 60% rear weight distribution which will allow for some battery in the engine bay, but I'd also like to use the fuel tank area (a wedge shaped area between the driver's and passenger's feet) and maybe some of the frunk.

SabrToothSqrl : I've got the Flux Capacitor already. Somehow a flux capacitor sitting between the seats of the TesLorean won't be fanboy at all, but so much cooler.

Jeff

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Me? I'd stick the Model s drive into a 1940s Ford slant back...

http://auctionsamerica.com/images/lots/AF11/AF11_r721_01.jpg


I love the mafia look.

 

[Ingineer]

I'm willing to assist with this project, but forget about installing the iBoost unless you are going to install almost all the original Tesla systems. It will fail and latch a DTC if it doesn't see CAN frames from most of the systems.

You will also have to spoof torque capability messages from the missing front DU to avoid limp mode, which will cause your rear DU to emit about as much power as the PRV V6 on 2 cylinders.

Then there's the immobilizer. This means you need the Body ECU and Gateway which is part of the 17" screen's main PCB. (Though you could mount a smaller screen if you like).

Don't even think about trying to get the AutoPilot running w/o a whole car.

Sorry to be full of negativity, I'd love to see this work, but the drive units in a D car are heavily interconnected.

 

[techmaven]

Very cool project. Something I'd love to do if I had the skillz or the time. The time is the biggest bitch. And the right kind of garage.

At what point does one run into legal trouble? If one took a DeLorean and a the rolling chassis of a Model S and merged, what would run into legal issues?

 

[DrJeff]

Ingineer : The iBooster will be the biggest pain. Until I either succeed or give up, I can use a vacuum pump and reservoir with the DeLorean's existing brake system. I am guessing, but, I think that replacing the motor control on the iBooster is likely to be the most viable route rather than attempting a CAN spoof - just too much else going on and too many embedded systems to 'keep calm and carry on". The really interesting part of the iBooster is the hardware - hydraulic pumps integrated with a master cylinder. I'm going to get the ECU separated from the motor and see what type of interface exists - I'm hoping it is a pretty straightforward.

The most prospective path forward for the rear DU at the moment is to replace the motor controller with a custom one. This route negates the need to figure out the CANbus drive and de-integrate all the integrated systems.

Of course all these replacements means that more work needs to be done to (re)integrate systems - that's something I know how to do.

Autopilot is at the end of a very long list... if I've got braking on command, steering on command (not the Tesla EPS unit), and drive on demand, then...

TechMaven : Obviously you don't end up with either a DeLorean or a Tesla. Rather you end up with a custom built car and you have to treat it as such, which comes with various responsibilities, not unlike building a hotrod.

Jeff

 

[Ingineer]

If all you are wanting to do is get iBoost providing boost, then you might have a shot, but it's ABS and traction control functions will definitely be offline. Do you have the schematics?

 

[Ingineer]

Here's what I could find. Since it's safety-critical, I bet the boost function works even if CAN is lost:

Put +12v always-on power to Pin 1, Pin 17 and then Ignition to pin 20. I bet it starts boosting. The 2 going off the top of the page go to the Yaw sensor located in the middle of the chassis. But I unplugged this in one of my cars and Boost still worked. I suppose I can short CAN2 and see what happens.

 

[DrJeff]

Ingineer : That's an awsome find. Thanks! I've been digging for that for days. Yep, boost only, I can't do ABS or Traction Control since I don't have individual wheel speeds. The DeLorean is from the era where a physical cable connected to the front wheel hub ran up to the back of the speedometer on the dash board (so quant).

About the only thing I'd like to have rear wheel speeds for is detecting slippage on launch. I can get the car's speed from the front wheel (putting a digital detector in-line with the speedo cable) and having a GPS as backup, but I don't have an easy way of getting rear wheel speeds without modifying the rear hubs.

 

[Ingineer]

The drive inverter rpm signal compared to the front speed will detect slip. Just not which wheel.