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To Performance or not to performance... AWD? P? I can't decide!

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P3D+ owner. This is perhaps an unpopular opinion. What is more important to you? Range or looks? If range is more important, go with the AWD and add the 19" wheels. The car still looks great that way, and you maximize your driving without paying the energy tax of the performance package.

If you have owned sports cars in the past, or modified cars in the past, then the P3D might be more up your alley. I've seen people complain about the ride on the 20" wheels and lower suspension, but I think those people are insane. Then again, I make a habit of not hitting potholes or driving through puddles that might be hiding potholes.

The price difference of $11,000 is probably the most significant factor for most people, so you should figure out if maybe you want to save that $11k and instead put that money toward buying a HPWC, maybe buying FSD, the 19" wheels, etc. Also consider maintenance costs. When the P3D eventually needs pads and rotors replaced, I think there are going to be an awful lot of people that have never purchased performance parts before that are shocked at the prices. Two piece rotors of that side are impressively expensive, and if you're coming from an economical car like a Toyota or Honda, you're going to be spending 10-20x what you used to just for the parts themselves.

My honest opinion is that $11k just for looks is a total waste. The brake package is really made for repeated abuse and consistent performance on a track. It will add nothing to your daily experience beyond the appearance, which you can't see when you're driving anyway. Buy what you want, but don't just spend for the sake of spending with no idea what the future consequences will be. Lower range and higher parts costs can really surprise people and make what would be a great experience much less enjoyable. Also, if you live in a part of California that gets snow, finding inexpensive wheel and tire options to swap out the 20" summers is probably another $2300 or so. You can not use the OEM tires in the snow at all, so you basically must find an alternative which Tesla does not offer right now. If you get the AWD, you can choose the 18" or 19" package they offer online and they'll install them for you.
 
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Hi guys,
Looking for some words of wisdom here and to be swayed so I can finalize my order. I took the M3P out for a test drive and was blown away.

I haven't yet taken the standard AWD/Dual motor out yet as they didn't have any available. My order is currently for standard dual motor. Especially with the new lower P price, I can afford it. But, is it worth it?

-I'm likely not going to be making it to the track too often.
-I do love the red brakes, bigger tires, and of course the extra 1.2sec 0-60 time is awesome, but will it get old fast?
-Is 4.5 still PLENTY fast? And on the highway does AWD do just as good at overtaking as the P if you're already going around 50? These are the tough questions...

Someone please make this ultimate first world problem decision for me.

If you're asking about it I imagine that it means that even though you can afford it you still don't consider $10,000 "f you" money. If you don't consider $10,000 "f you" money then I'd say go with the AWD LR. If the P3D+ is Warp 7 the AWD LR is Warp 5 and plenty fast enough for most people, even those who like them some speed.

Like yourself I could have easily afforded the P3D+ but I just thought there were better things I could have done with the $15,000 (pre price change) I would have spent on it.

I also find myself being a touch naughty in my AWD Model 3 at times and even more speed would not help with that particular problem.
 
Also somewhere along the way someone pointed out that the P3D is 1.3 seconds faster than the AWD. Tesla is counting roll-out in their 0-60 times with the P3D but not with the AWD. So, the difference is more like 1 second. I imagine Tesla is intentionally doing this to move more P3Ds, they are probably a LOT more profitable. The parts differences might add up to about $1500 and long term warranty implications are maybe another $1500 spread out over the 8 years of the drive-train warranty. The rest is pure gravy baby.
 
If you're asking about it I imagine that it means that even though you can afford it you still don't consider $10,000 "f you" money. If you don't consider $10,000 "f you" money then I'd say go with the AWD LR. If the P3D+ is Warp 7 the AWD LR is Warp 5 and plenty fast enough for most people, even those who like them some speed.

Like yourself I could have easily afforded the P3D+ but I just thought there were better things I could have done with the $15,000 (pre price change) I would have spent on it.

I also find myself being a touch naughty in my AWD Model 3 at times and even more speed would not help with that particular problem.

Right, it's not about should I splurge for it and spend the extra cash. It's what's the most reasonable thing to do. Rich people don't get rich by spending their money on useless $hit.
 
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Right, it's not about should I splurge for it and spend the extra cash. It's what's the most reasonable thing to do. Rich people don't get rich by spending their money on useless $hit.

I'm not rich but "do okay"....well one look around my house would prove I'm not a tight fisted bastard, but yeah, you have to draw the line somewhere. Having kids will also have that effect.
 
I was in your same position. Originally, I wanted AWD-non P but my store only had Performance so I went and test drove it. I was so impressed, loved everything about it that I wanted to buy exactly what I drove, I didn't want to miss anything about it, I wanted to experience that over and over again. I wanted to take that experience home and into my daily driving.

AWD-non P is more then good for most people but I didn't want to have doubts in the future that I should've gotten the P+.
I've never been a car guy, have no plans on taking it to the track or going drag racing (although that might change now;) )

It really comes down to what YOU truly want and not let what other people say. Yeah, the AWD-Non P might be a better value to some but for me, I just couldn't resist the P3D+
 
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What's the rationale here?

Higher priced vehicles depreciate the hardest.

A longer holding period reduces your relative loss when your purchase is gone.

Your also enjoy your 3.5 second car longer.

Once the answer is yes to if I can afford it and yes to I am ok with not deploying the money elsewhere I shop based on value.

I’ve comitted to keeping the car until it falls apart so the extra expenditure up front I am ok with.

You are more likely to regret not going for P than regret getting it.

Everyone has different taste and preferences so hope you make the choice that makes you happiest.

I still don’t regret the 3P+ despite Elon stomping on my nuts and twisting with last weeks price action. :) sexy AF and is an acceleration beast.

Need to make 4 lane changes once the light turns green to make the exit?

No problem.
 
At the time I ordered, the difference for my configuration after tax credit was about $8.5K difference, I was assuming that the AWD-non P wasn't going to make it in time (I live all in the way in Michigan) so it was another reason I jumped for the P3D+.

But now since the price change, the difference for my configuration is about $7k after tax credit assuming that you won't get AWD-non P in time.

Although if you lived in the west coast you could get it both in time but as OP lives near where I live, I didn't want to take the gamble.
 
If you're asking about it I imagine that it means that even though you can afford it you still don't consider $10,000 "f you" money. If you don't consider $10,000 "f you" money then I'd say go with the AWD LR.
Hm, isn't "f you money" an amount that allows you to give your boss the finger and stop working? I think the term you are looking for is "couch money" ;) I'm fortunate enough that paying an additional $10k isn't really an issue, but I enjoy watching money grow in my investment account almost as much as driving a fast car. :p
 
Do you want to beat an STI at a light? Get the P. If you don't mind being neck and neck, get the AWD :) Of course consider the money too.

Huh?

2018 Subaru WRX STI First Test Review: Old Dog, Same Tricks - Motor Trend

2018 STI, 0-60 in 5.7. Literally any model 3, even MR, is quicker.

Even the older, less porky, model didn't beat an AWD Model 3-
2015 Subaru WRX STI First Test - Motor Trend

4.6 0-60, and that's with rollout. The AWD 3 is 4.5 without it (so more like 4.2-4.3 with it)
 
Higher priced vehicles depreciate the hardest.

A longer holding period reduces your relative loss when your purchase is gone.

Have no idea where you are coming up with this, all cars basically depreciate along the same relative curve; 20% year 1, 12% - 15% Year 2 and 7% each successive year. Now some cars perform much worse on this curve (i.e. Bentley's for example) and some perform slightly better. Within model differences within a brand, only limited edition models have a different depreciation curve, think Demon vs Hellcat.

I am not sure how you would even determine a "holding time" for a car, but would be interested in hearing. Buying used after 2-3 years is smart as you have bought after the steep portion of the depreciation curve, holding any car only 2-3 years is not smart financially as you will always have the burden of the higher depreciation regardless of the choice of car.
 
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Have no idea where you are coming up with this, all cars basically depreciate along the same relative curve; 20% year 1, 12% - 15% Year 2 and 7% each successive year. Now some cars perform much worse on this curve (i.e. Bentley's for example) and some perform slightly better. Within model differences within a brand, only limited edition models have a different depreciation curve, think Demon vs Hellcat.

I am not sure how you would even determine a "holding time" for a car, but would be interested in hearing. Buying used after 2-3 years is smart as you have bought after the steep portion of the depreciation curve, holding any car only 2-3 years is not smart financially as you will always have the burden of the higher depreciation regardless of the choice of car.

Replace % with $ and you will see where I am coming from.
You outlay money/debt that carries opportunity cost. Your money/debt loss in absolute terms is larger on a higher priced car YoY.

I take an earth sharing 50% depreciation hit every year on my cell phone. It's $500 absolute dollar depreciation on a phone.. not a Bentley. The Bentley takes a "smaller" -percentage- loss than an iPhone. The Bentley takes a far larger absolute -dollar- loss than an iPhone.

If you are going to describe curves to me, you should realize the graph should have appropriately scaled X, and Y values to accurate reflect the magnitude of the curve.

My advice is to the OP was basically if you churn depreciating assets quickly, go for the cheaper point of entry.
 
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Huh?

2018 Subaru WRX STI First Test Review: Old Dog, Same Tricks - Motor Trend

2018 STI, 0-60 in 5.7. Literally any model 3, even MR, is quicker.

Even the older, less porky, model didn't beat an AWD Model 3-
2015 Subaru WRX STI First Test - Motor Trend

4.6 0-60, and that's with rollout. The AWD 3 is 4.5 without it (so more like 4.2-4.3 with it)


The reality at a stop light is that no matter what ICE car is next to you any tesla will give you a 50 foot head start before they even begin moving. They may be fast enough to catch up but the instant torque always gives you distance off the line. The 0-60 in all ICE cars uses the roll out number, if they went from when the pedal was touched until hitting 60 Tesla would gain a huge advantage.
 
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Hm, isn't "f you money" an amount that allows you to give your boss the finger and stop working? I think the term you are looking for is "couch money" ;) I'm fortunate enough that paying an additional $10k isn't really an issue, but I enjoy watching money grow in my investment account almost as much as driving a fast car. :p

You are probably right.