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TPMS retrofit for older Model S

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The RESET option disappeared from my Service module on my screen. My sensors work just fine, I had them tested. My SC refuses to agree. Tesla refuses to fix my RESET mode. Tesla keeps sending me emails to perform RESET. I'm stuck. Good senors with error on dash.
By the way, [email protected] email address was taken down. No way to communicate with them now.
 
The RESET option disappeared from my Service module on my screen. My sensors work just fine, I had them tested. My SC refuses to agree. Tesla refuses to fix my RESET mode. Tesla keeps sending me emails to perform RESET. I'm stuck. Good senors with error on dash.
By the way, [email protected] email address was taken down. No way to communicate with them now.

Interesting... So all cars with warranty and Baloong will get upgraded to Conti TPMS now?
 
So I have the "tpms system needs service" warning and the SC have diagnosed it as a failed ECU. I have the old baolong system. They've said that the only option is to replace the whole system and have quoted just under £1000 ($1300 US) to do it. I understand that's what the upgrade costs (4x sensors, new ECU, new wiring harness) but I've never had a part fail on a previous car that couldn't just be replaced like for like. I can't see that having the pressure readout is worth all that, the old way was fine for me.
So I have a couple of questions:
Can I just get an old baolong ECU (£90/$100), fit it myself and get the SC to flash the vin/do the ID learn procedure? If so, do I need to find out what part number revision mine is (A-F I think)? I'd prefer to it get under there once.
Has anyone just flat out refused to be upgraded and insisted on a like for like replacement, and been successful? It seems like asking $1300 for something that should be <200 is a bit shady. Imagine taking another car in for a new spark plug and being told that the spark plug is no longer recommended and you must have a whole new engine block instead?!
Plus they seem to be threatening £60 per day for a loaner, it's a tough life being out of warranty!
 
After thought, if I could have sprayed WD-40 into the plastic holder, it might have pulled out easier.

TPMS retrofit for older Model S

I tried for 30 minutes to pull on the bolster without any success. After removing the rear trunk trim I used a heat gun to warm the white plastic piece until it was hot to touch (90 sec on low). I protected seat belt, and plastics around with wet rags. The bolster came out very easy after that.
 
The SB-15-17-003 SB-15-17-003 refers to sill trim panel procedure 15184802 in the Service Manual. At least the version that I have does not show that the top part that the seat belt goes through has to be removed first. There are to trim rivets retainers behind the piece of the trim that the seat belt slides through.

Other than that pretty strait forward. Start at the top of the real sill trim and remove the 2nd row seats when ready to remove the lower part of the trim. Is nice to have something to sit on. If you remove the seat and lower the back seat then protect the back seat so it does not get punctured by the frame above the chargers and HVJB ... (ask me how I almost know). The B pillar trim has screws under both front and rear sill trims. The front does not need to be removed, just lift the end at the B pillar.

It still took me 3 hours to remove all trims. I strongly advise heat the car well, 80F before removing trims.

Now starting to install the harness: windows lowered, trunk slightly opened, high voltage disabled, and 12V negative removed with the battery on the battery tender. But I did forget to unplug the car ... fortunately I can unplug from the wall.
 
ECU and harness installed. Now waiting for some of the trim rivets that inevitable break when removing the trim. I had a hard time with step 24 pushing the two CAN pins in the connectors in the trunk. I end up lifting the pins retaining cover, insert the pins in and close the cover. After I taped everything it cross my mind that I could have just remove the two +/-JC-CAN pins that go to the old ECU and not have to go under the car to remove it. The problem is that I can trust the schematics, that said pin 4 will be free for my new ECU and pin 1 was available. I would not trust pins 1 in the two connectors is the old ECU. But for people that have the intermittent zero readings because the old ECU is still talking on the CAN this could be a somehow easier way to disable the old TPMS-ECU.
 

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I got new update Saturday night. Shock, the TPMS Reset was there, I reset and all is normal. Thank you Tesla. What is sad is the guy at SC lying . First he said sensors were bad, then he said option never existed. One owner was told he had to pay $1500 to get upgraded.
I hope all the antique owners got it back on options?
 

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I got new update Saturday night. Shock, the TPMS Reset was there, I reset and all is normal. Thank you Tesla. What is sad is the guy at SC lying . First he said sensors were bad, then he said option never existed. One owner was told he had to pay $1500 to get upgraded.
I hope all the antique owners got it back on options?

Hi @Lasttoy, Can you please share with us the software update version that has fixed the issue and brought back the option on the central screen ? I'm in Canada and own a 2014 MS85. I'm now praying to get this OTA update soon. I'm exhausted to have this error message in my front screen as of last September (using both set of tires, Winter and Summer). Thanks again for sharing !
 
There was not tpmstype line in my internal.dat (configuration file), so I added one new line "tpmstype 3". After reboot and driving for the TPMS to learn the tires the car shows the pressure on all 4 tires. There is no error at the bottom of the IC or red info on the MCU. But the TPMS yellow tire is still on the IC. Does anybody know how to reset that "light"? (other than cover it with tape)
 
There was not tpmstype line in my internal.dat (configuration file), so I added one new line "tpmstype 3". After reboot and driving for the TPMS to learn the tires the car shows the pressure on all 4 tires. There is no error at the bottom of the IC or red info on the MCU. But the TPMS yellow tire is still on the IC. Does anybody know how to reset that "light"? (other than cover it with tape)

You need ServiceCenter or tech to go in with Toolbox to fix the TPMS warning light. System will function fine, but the light will show until the Sensor ID's are typed into toolbox for the car.