[UK] Is it worth buying a 2019 M3P in 2023?

[GRiLLA]

Just to mention, as I don't see it mentioned above, if you get a LR Model 3 you can software unlock Acceleration Boost for £1500. It brings the 0-60 down from 4.4 to 3.9s.

I tried the Acceleration Boost and frankly didn't like it, so returned it for the refund. I guess I'm not man enough for that much acceleration. I've also had a P as a loan car, didn't feel that different.

To flag a 2019 car will have the chrome window surround, old style centre console (need to buy a third party wireless charger), keep-fit boot opening and less efficient heat pump heater.

 

[yessuz]

Just to mention, as I don't see it mentioned above, if you get a LR Model 3 you can software unlock Acceleration Boost for £1500. It brings the 0-60 down from 4.4 to 3.9s.

I tried the Acceleration Boost and frankly didn't like it, so returned it for the refund. I guess I'm not man enough for that much acceleration. I've also had a P as a loan car, didn't feel that different.

To flag a 2019 car will have the chrome window surround, old style centre console (need to buy a third party wireless charger), keep-fit boot opening and less efficient heat pump heater.

yeah, I mentioned that one.

 

[b3n466]

Wow what a great community response - thank you all so much for your replies!

To add a little context and clarity, I currently have a 335d xdrive so the M3P would be my preferred choice to feel like I was upgrading in terms of performance.

Also I've heard they come with indicators which, sadly, the BM did not

The model I drove at the dealership was definitely a 2020 M3P - I wanted as close a comparison as I could get to the 2019 model so consciously made that choice with the demonstrator.

I recently changed jobs and now have the option to charge at work for free so the concept of no road tax (for now), no servicing and free electric to some degree, prompted this enquiry.

Daily round trip commute would be 35 miles or so - I'd expect to charge once a week for those kind of miles and top up at home for any additional trips.

My thinking is that while there is some value left in the BM it may be wise to sell and join the EV shift. That being said, something playing on my mind is the value of the M3P once the remaining drivetrain/battery warranty has expired in just under 4 years time.

I've read so many comments elsewhere advising potential buyers not to touch them once they're out of warranty. I'd expect there'd be no sale value in it by that point, whereas the BM would have substantially more. But then the Tesla would have saved me around half of that value in fuel costs, road tax and servicing... I expect this is a common conundrum for most people looking to cross over that never really reaches a proper conclusion.

As regards considering a newer used model, the M3P seems to rise quite steeply for a 2020 model of the same spec/mileage and I'd wanted to not pay a lot over the reclaimable value of my existing vehicle, otherwise I'd likely go for it.

One last question I do have though relates to the battery.

On the model I'm looking at with 20K miles on it, I asked the dealership salesperson to check the HV battery wear. I think it came back as about 7.5% worn.

Based on what I've read could I assume that's as much the age of the battery, as the number/level/intensity of charge cycles? Is that a good wear level for the age?

I'd still like to be able to take the odd lengthy trip and I'm aware my route/charger planning will need to be a lot more considered as a result. Could anyone advise what kind of real world range I'm looking at on a full charge for both summer and winter months at that wear level, in their experience, assuming a conservative driving style as would be normal for a longer trip?


Again, really appreciate the very helpful comments so far everyone

 

[GRiLLA]

Wow what a great community response - thank you all so much for your replies!

To add a little context and clarity, I currently have a 335d xdrive so the M3P would be my preferred choice to feel like I was upgrading in terms of performance.

Also I've heard they come with indicators which, sadly, the BM did not

The model I drove at the dealership was definitely a 2020 M3P - I wanted as close a comparison as I could get to the 2019 model so consciously made that choice with the demonstrator.

I recently changed jobs and now have the option to charge at work for free so the concept of no road tax (for now), no servicing and free electric to some degree, prompted this enquiry.

Daily round trip commute would be 35 miles or so - I'd expect to charge once a week for those kind of miles and top up at home for any additional trips.

My thinking is that while there is some value left in the BM it may be wise to sell and join the EV shift. That being said, something playing on my mind is the value of the M3P once the remaining drivetrain/battery warranty has expired in just under 4 years time.

I've read so many comments elsewhere advising potential buyers not to touch them once they're out of warranty. I'd expect there'd be no sale value in it by that point, whereas the BM would have substantially more. But then the Tesla would have saved me around half of that value in fuel costs, road tax and servicing... I expect this is a common conundrum for most people looking to cross over that never really reaches a proper conclusion.

As regards considering a newer used model, the M3P seems to rise quite steeply for a 2020 model of the same spec/mileage and I'd wanted to not pay a lot over the reclaimable value of my existing vehicle, otherwise I'd likely go for it.

One last question I do have though relates to the battery.

On the model I'm looking at with 20K miles on it, I asked the dealership salesperson to check the HV battery wear. I think it came back as about 7.5% worn.

Based on what I've read could I assume that's as much the age of the battery, as the number/level/intensity of charge cycles? Is that a good wear level for the age?

I'd still like to be able to take the odd lengthy trip and I'm aware my route/charger planning will need to be a lot more considered as a result. Could anyone advise what kind of real world range I'm looking at on a full charge for both summer and winter months at that wear level, in their experience, assuming a conservative driving style as would be normal for a longer trip?


Again, really appreciate the very helpful comments so far everyone

Doesn't the 335d have a 0-60 of 4.6s ? So slower than a LR Model 3?

There isn't really any established way of determining how 'worn' a battery really is, people might compare the range at 100% to new, but its easily possible that is more of a factor of the BMS calibration being off due to how its been charged and it would revert after some deeper charges allow it to calibrate. It sounds rather fishy to me for a car to lose 7.5% after 20K miles, the warranty after 120K miles will give you a new battery if it retains less than 70% of original charge, Tesla don't expect to pay out on that warranty often.

I call BS on 7.5%

I'll let some P model owners comment on real world range, I would guess about 200 miles, but that's irrelevant as no one really drives from 100% to 0%, to be more realistic 80% to 20% your are looking at maybe a couple of hours of motorway driving between stopping for coffee and charge. Summer or winter makes little difference on a long journey, its short journeys where you are warming up the cabin repeatedly that you notice it. Heavy rain makes a far larger difference.

 

[pdk42]

I have a 2019 LR with 54k miles that I’ve had from new. It’s been a great car but I have recently been looking to replace it with a new Y - mainly because I usually keep cars 4-5 years and because I’ve just got itchy feet. But in the end (partly due to terrible residual value of my current car), I’ve decided to stay put. Maybe I got lucky, but the build on my car is fine - no paint issues or particularly bad panel alignment (but it’s not perfect either). TeslaFi is telling me that I’ve got about 7% battery degradation, which feels about right based on range I’m achieving. I’ll take that. Also, there is now a lot of data on Tesla battery degradation and it seems that it is fastest in its very early life but then flattens out.

I’ve driven a facelift car (2021 MIC) a number of times and reckon it’s maybe a little better built and a little quieter inside, but the differences are not huge. In fact, changing tyres made the biggest difference in terms of cabin noise on my car.

As to heat pump vs PTC heater. It’s definitely true that the heat pump system is more efficient in colder weather when on long journeys. But it’s also true that on short journeys it’s marginally less efficient. So if that is your usage profile, the heat pump system won’t necessarily add much.

But short journeys in general are bad for efficiency in EVs, esp in cold weather. That 35 mile daily commute will easily take you down from 80% to 20% in a few days in winter. You need to get into the habit of charging it each and every night and not treat it like an ICE car and let it run down to the red light before filling up.

Finally, there is a Facebook group called something like “Tesla High Mileage Club” and there are plenty of people with 2018 Model 3s with 100k+ miles on them that have had very few problems. Might be worth you checking it out.

 

[Skie]

To add a little context and clarity, I currently have a 335d xdrive so the M3P would be my preferred choice to feel like I was upgrading in terms of performance.

This was always my upgrade criteria, faster faster faster. Problem is, where do you go from a M3P? It's either a right handed Tesla or win the bloody lottery

But yeah, get one. It's a damn fun car, you're getting the year with most of the good kit (barring heatpump) and it'll get you from A to B without worrying too much about the range. Mine can do 220ish miles on a full charge if I try, but more realistically 190 with the fun pedal used when called for.

 

[MrT3]

I currently have a 335d xdrive so the M3P would be my preferred choice to feel like I was upgrading in terms of performance.

Test drive an LR and see if you still need an M3P to feel like you are getting an upgrade. Then consider you could purchase acceleration boost for the LR and get another 0.5s off the 0-60 time.

 

[TheSharkbites]

I went from a 335d Xdrive to a M3P and as you state it’s the access to the acceleration and the overtaking ability I wanted. The bigger brakes 20” wheels and it’s just a more planted and better car to drive than the LR I had for 6 weeks. I went from a 2020 LR to a 19 M3P as I just wasn't happy with the LR, I would have been if it was a family car but the Mrs drives that one the M3P was my own car and it just looked and handled better, so I changed my mind.

As for the battery deg, my 2019 has done 28k miles and is showing 4.2% deg on Tessie which is measured against every M3P that uses the app and is slightly less than the average deg.

Over a year my average wh/m is 305 and normally I get about 240 miles range on a longer run on a motorway however my normal daily is 20 miles round trip and the P bit gets used often ! I just looked on the Tessie app and my car is currently at 56% in car range shows 165 miles but Tessie with temp and this weeks driving style show 111 miles.

 

[adamantia]

I've had my early '20 M3P for about 4 months after going through the same decision cycle you are now.
Motorway range is around 200miles with the weather at the minute, so can feel slightly restricted compared to an LR but the outright performance and the shiny trinkets do make it feel a lot more special.
I've stopped watching the market but in the summer I was finding that there's very little premium for a P over an equivalent LR - the price difference comes mainly down to mileage and age. You do pay a fair chunk more for a facelift/'21 car so make sure the 'improvements' justify the difference to you.
Mine being a Fremont build does show, though I'd argue it's not as bad as some people make you think. Despite being 3.5yrs old the previous owner had not had everything done under warranty - I immediately had a load of stuff done that was blooming obvious so it pays to have a good look over a car that's out of warranty before you sign and don't assume everything will have been sorted already!
As has been said above, don't worry about degradation too much. I'm at 4.8% at 37k miles but the BMS moves it's estimate around a lot so it takes time to track the average

 

[bangtidy]

I'm just coming to the end of my 4 year lease with my P. 46k miles (averaging 275Wh/m).

Have to say, whoever gets this as a second hand car will be getting a whole lot of car for the money. Still looks like new after a good wash and there's no real battery degradation that I can notice. Range on the P has never been fantastic at about 200miles, but it's never been an issue for me.

Is the LR that much better range wise? If it is that'll be nice.

I wouldn't have a P again myself - the ride is horrible on the roads around me (Greater Manchester) and it is noisy in the cabin at any speed above about 40 mph. The acceleration never gets old as it's just so instantly accessible but an LR will be plenty for me now I think.

Build quality on mine clearly wasn't great and there's been a few things that I've had to have sorted under warranty, but Tesla in Stockport have always been great to deal with.

I'd say it's the best car I've owned and I've got an order for an 3 LR (Highland) which I'm hoping will arrive in early 2024. If the build, ride and tyre/wind noise is all better on these newer cars, I'll be very happy.

Couldn't care less about losing the stalks - I'll get used to it, same as with everything else about the Model 3.

If I were buying second hand, I'd be making sure the brakes, suspension and steering are all in good shape - don't think I'd worry about the battery and motors.

 

[yessuz]

I'm just coming to the end of my 4 year lease with my P. 46k miles (averaging 275Wh/m).

Have to say, whoever gets this as a second hand car will be getting a whole lot of car for the money. Still looks like new after a good wash and there's no real battery degradation that I can notice. Range on the P has never been fantastic at about 200miles, but it's never been an issue for me.

Is the LR that much better range wise? If it is that'll be nice.

I wouldn't have a P again myself - the ride is horrible on the roads around me (Greater Manchester) and it is noisy in the cabin at any speed above about 40 mph. The acceleration never gets old as it's just so instantly accessible but an LR will be plenty for me now I think.

Build quality on mine clearly wasn't great and there's been a few things that I've had to have sorted under warranty, but Tesla in Stockport have always been great to deal with.

I'd say it's the best car I've owned I'd say and I've got an order for an 3 LR (Highland) which I'm hoping will arrive in early 2024. If the build, ride and tyre/wind noise is all better on these newer cars, I'll be very happy.

Couldn't care less about losing the stalks - I'll get used to it, same as with everything else about the Model 3.

If I were buying second hand, I'd be making sure the brakes, suspension and steering are all in good shape - don't think I'd worry about the battery and motors.

yes, LR range is 350 miles on full as per display... but on average, 300 is easily achievable. I do 150 odd miles with 50% of battery. in winter.

 

[Durzel]

2019/2020 M3P could be a decent buy, all depends on the price.

The big issue is the lack of heat pump, I think, though that really depends on how far you're typically travelling I think. The P isn't the one to go for if you're obsessive about range anyway, but I'd be surprised if 2021-on M3Ps travelled massively further than older ones.

I'd probably argue in favour of a LR with or without Acceleration Boost nowadays, rather than a P, at least on pre-Highland cars. I don't think the P is much further ahead in practical acceleration terms. I think the fact there is so little to disambiguate the LR from the P is an contributory factor. I am hoping the Plaid 3 will be a radical uplift from the LR, it needs to be in my opinion.

 

[Jason71]

2019/2020 M3P could be a decent buy, all depends on the price.

The big issue is the lack of heat pump, I think, though that really depends on how far you're typically travelling I think. The P isn't the one to go for if you're obsessive about range anyway, but I'd be surprised if 2021-on M3Ps travelled massively further than older ones.

I'd probably argue in favour of a LR with or without Acceleration Boost nowadays, rather than a P, at least on pre-Highland cars. I don't think the P is much further ahead in practical acceleration terms. I think the fact there is so little to disambiguate the LR from the P is an contributory factor. I am hoping the Plaid 3 will be a radical uplift from the LR, it needs to be in my opinion.

The newer ones do have a bigger battery in addition to the heat pump so I would hope they are noticeably better range wise than a 2019

 

[Zilla91]

Range wise I don't see much difference on a long journey between the M3P and MYLR. On my usual journey between Newcastle and London I have to make the exact same stops for charging for either car

 

[Jason71]

Range wise I don't see much difference on a long journey between the M3P and MYLR. On my usual journey between Newcastle and London I have to make the exact same stops for charging for either car

The "problem" with the M3P compared to the M3LR is the bigger wheels with wider and maybe stickier tyres. It makes a significant difference.
But the MY LR has tyres about the same width as the M3P + its heavier + its less aero efficient.
not sure what wheel sizes you have or if they have the same battery size on your two there have been so many.

but in some ways its credit to the MY that it can match the M3 rather than the other way around tbh.

 

[yessuz]

Range wise I don't see much difference on a long journey between the M3P and MYLR. On my usual journey between Newcastle and London I have to make the exact same stops for charging for either car

so you tell me you arrive to same charging location with same % both in P and LR?

 

[KennethS]

The "problem" with the M3P compared to the M3LR is the bigger wheels with wider and maybe stickier tyres. It makes a significant difference.
But the MY LR has tyres about the same width as the M3P + its heavier + its less aero efficient.
not sure what wheel sizes you have or if they have the same battery size on your two there have been so many.

but in some ways its credit to the MY that it can match the M3 rather than the other way around tbh.

Our 2022 MYLR is more efficient than our 2019 M3P, which I find a testament to design improvements during that time. I have assumed a newer M3 variant would similarly have better efficiency than the older ones.

 

[Durzel]

so you tell me you arrive to same charging location with same % both in P and LR?

That's not what he said is it

It can be reasonably inferred that for the journey from Newcastle to London that he feels he would have to stop at the same place in both cars to avoid potentially running too low to get to the next available SC (I assume), i.e. that there isn't a huge amount of difference in it % wise.

 

[yessuz]

That's not what he said is it

It can be reasonably inferred that for the journey from Newcastle to London that he feels he would have to stop at the same place in both cars to avoid potentially running too low to get to the next available SC (I assume), i.e. that there isn't a huge amount of difference in it % wise.

i mean, having in mind how many SCs are on M1, I presume he stops on the same SCs just because no other option.

but difference will be in battery % and duration of charge needed

 

[GRiLLA]

Is the LR that much better range wise? If it is that'll be nice.

Real world I've done 245 miles using 85% of the battery in my 2022 LR, but really driving for 4 hours is too much. So 90 miles further than a P if you scale that up to 100%