[UK] Is it worth buying a 2019 M3P in 2023?

[b3n466]

Hi all,

I've recently test driven a 2020 M3P demonstrator at a Tesla dealership and was impressed with the car

I'm interested in a used approved 2019 M3P - there are a good number of used listings with 20-30K miles on them going around the £30K or less mark

I've read a lot since becoming interested in these cars on things like build quality and battery wear/charging habits. I'm also aware that Tesla offers 8 years or 120K miles on the battery and drivetrain, half of which would be left once purchased. Additionally you get a 1 year/10K limited warranty.

I'm looking for opinions on whether this would be a sensible choice in 2023 or if I'm asking for trouble given the age and unavailability of information on how the car's been treated by previous owner/s. I know they're meant to be checked thoroughly by the dealerships prior to delivery. I'd welcome other peoples experiences in a similar situation.

I appreciate any advice or suggestions

 

[yessuz]

Hi all,

I've recently test driven a 2020 M3P demonstrator at a Tesla dealership and was impressed with the car

I'm interested in a used approved 2019 M3P - there are a good number of used listings with 20-30K miles on them going around the £30K or less mark

I've read a lot since becoming interested in these cars on things like build quality and battery wear/charging habits. I'm also aware that Tesla offers 8 years or 120K miles on the battery and drivetrain, half of which would be left once purchased. Additionally you get a 1 year/10K limited warranty.

I'm looking for opinions on whether this would be a sensible choice in 2023 or if I'm asking for trouble given the age and unavailability of information on how the car's been treated by previous owner/s. I know they're meant to be checked thoroughly by the dealerships prior to delivery. I'd welcome other peoples experiences in a similar situation.

I appreciate any advice or suggestions

Firstly, in 2023 you probably tested 2023 version, not 2020.

Secondly - do not count on that limited 1 year warranty - check what is covered and what is not... not that there is massive issues.. but it just might have very poor coverage.

Like with all performance models (from any manufacturer), you can assume that most likely it was driven slightly more aggressively and more often in this way than the 1.3 Honda Jazz owned by 75 year old who was driving it to |Tesco and church every Sunday.

However, there is not much to break in electric motors... battery degradation will be in region of 90% I would think, maybe better, so not that bad.

it will be fun car to drive, for sure.

 

[Fat Wolfie]

It’s an interesting question..

I was a confirmed petrolhead for years and very much enjoyed running some reasonably high performance cars (911’s, V8 Astons etc) but I would not have bought any of them second hand because you don’t know what the previous owner had done/how they’d been driven etc.

fast forward to currently being retired and no longer able to buy such cars and I found myself looking earlier this year at a second hand M3P or a Model S. Given the comparative lack of moving parts in the electric vehicles I was not concerned about how it had been driven, or to be honest the milage. A very different approach to my traditional buying habits.

in the end it came down to a nice M3P or digging a bit deeper and buying a S p100d. Which is what I did.

but “worth it”? I have got to admit I don’t think the performance versions of the 3 or S (or Y come to that) are worth the extra. Ok, I’m now in my 60s but find the good lady’s LR Y more than adequate performance wise on the roads as they are now. And probably appreciate efficiency over outright performance- the S uses electrons like they are going out of fashion, especially on short runs.

anyhow I suppose what I’m saying is that I’d not worry about buying a used M3P from 2019 from a reputable dealer (Tesla, RSEV, SLJones, Cleevely) but I’d also not discount the 3 LR as it will do - in all practical terms - as much as the P and will widen your available choice.

 

[spooksman]

I've got an early 2020 M3P and I've loved every second of having it! However, my wife recently got a 2023 M3 Rear-Wheel Drive, and if I was choosing again now, and knowing what I know now, I'd take the newer car (even though it is slower).

I do appreciate however, you may not be able to stretch to a new one, especially as they have expensive finance right now. I guess I was saying I'd get the newest one I could rather than the fastest...

 

[Jason71]

There are two "issues" with the early M3P
1) Fremont build quality which is not as terrible as people make out but not as good as later Chinese cars in my opinion
2) Range. There were a lot of early M3P owners on the forum complaining about range. The smaller battery on the early cars + the lack of a heat pump + the performance means the range is not great. People who have one feel free to weigh in but I think you would be taking not much over 200miles on a motorway road trip in winter which would be 20%-80% stints of less than 150miles. This is worst case would be better in summer and if that is enough for you then that is fine but go into it with your eyes open.

On the plus side you would have parking sensors, proper USB ports and passenger lumbar support so there is that.

 

[Jason71]

I've got an early 2020 M3P and I've loved every second of having it! However, my wife recently got a 2023 M3 Rear-Wheel Drive, and if I was choosing again now, and knowing what I know now, I'd take the newer car (even though it is slower).

I do appreciate however, you may not be able to stretch to a new one, especially as they have expensive finance right now. I guess I was saying I'd get the newest one I could rather than the fastest...

I agree. Definitely worth driving the other models. None of them are exactly slow. Not sure how often the average P owner really uses that extra grunt and there is also acceleration boost on the LR as an option if you get one but just cannot bear how slow it is

 

[yessuz]

There are two "issues" with the early M3P
1) Fremont build quality which is not as terrible as people make out but not as good as later Chinese cars in my opinion
2) Range. There were a lot of early M3P owners on the forum complaining about range. The smaller battery on the early cars + the lack of a heat pump + the performance means the range is not great. People who have one feel free to weigh in but I think you would be taking not much over 200miles on a motorway road trip in winter which would be 20%-80% stints of less than 150miles. This is worst case would be better in summer and if that is enough for you then that is fine but go into it with your eyes open.

On the plus side you would have parking sensors, proper USB ports and passenger lumbar support so there is that.

but build quality issues would be already solved/sorted by previous owner.

yes, range on P is a bit a bummer.

I would actually go for the LR version. You get almost same exprience performance wise (ok, about a second slower.. but you can buy acceleration boost which will make 0-60 difference to about half a second) but you get muuuuch more range.

 

[spooksman]

If it helps - you'll be able to guess which is which with regards to efficiency...

However, I do 'enjoy' the M3P

 

[M1tch]

Not sure how often the average P owner really uses that extra grunt

EVERY. SINGLE. DRIVE.

 

[Zilla91]

EVERY. SINGLE. DRIVE.

This. Every single time.

Only someone who doesn’t drive a performance will say things like “you won’t use it all the time”, “you’ll quickly get bored” or make a comparison with a LR with the acceleration boost.

 

[Dilly]

My March 2020 M3LR has plenty of grunt. I could add acceleration boost but wouldn’t bother. I can still still leave many ICE cars wondering what just happened

mine has passenger lumbar, two USB data ports and for my use, not having a heat pump isn’t an issue. A recent cold weather 80 mile trip took 100 miles from the battery but I was warm as toast and still had a 100 miles in the tank when I got home.

It was a Fremont car but had no panel or paint issues from new. Probably built on a Wednesday

 

[PITA]

This. Every single time.

Only someone who doesn’t drive a performance will say things like “you won’t use it all the time”, “you’ll quickly get bored” or make a comparison with a LR with the acceleration boost.

This... and when I used to drive into SuperCharging... rarely did I see a 'Performance' version. They were mostly LR and SR versions.

First thing my mates said "... is it the Performance?"

Easier to reply "Yes" and smile ... instead of a long winded answer that sounds like an excuse.

However... I don't like the 20" wheels... too high maintenance.

No way am I trading it in for a 'song' ... I'll keep this car.

 

[Jason71]

EVERY. SINGLE. DRIVE.

This. Every single time.

Only someone who doesn’t drive a performance will say things like “you won’t use it all the time”, “you’ll quickly get bored” or make a comparison with a LR with the acceleration boost.

This... and when I used to drive into SuperCharging... rarely did I see a 'Performance' version. They were mostly LR and SR versions.

First thing my mates said "... is it the Performance?"

Easier to reply "Yes" and smile ... instead of a long winded answer that sounds like an excuse.

However... I don't like the 20" wheels... too high maintenance.

No way am I trading it in for a 'song' ... I'll keep this car.

Children please! the grownups are talking.

 

[GeorgeSymonds]

I suspect the 1 year warranty is solid if you're buying from Tesla. I believe they just extend the usual warranty. Go back a few years and they'd give you 4 years extra but those days are gone

The cars have come on massively though. A 2019 is a relatively early mass produced Tesla, and they've learnt a lot! The 2021 facelift with the heat pump is a differnet beast to the earlier cars in mny small details and the heat pump makes a massive difference with winter range. If you genuinely drove a pre heat pump 2020 car (chrome surround to the windows) and enjoyed it then great, but you need to be really sure what you're buying.

At the end of the day, these things are down to price.

24k-25k for a half decent one without big miles but not from tesla
27-28k for one from Tesla with their 1 year warranty
30k for a 2021 car but high mileage

I'd try hard to find the extra and get the 2021 car

By far the easiest way to compare the whole market is here ->

UK Tesla Model 3 cars for sale

We list Model 3 cars for sale in UK We provide a number of filters including seller type, new, demo, CPO and used, model, price, year plus you can add filters for color, wheels, autopilot etc. Each car is shown in more detail with a number of market charts and a detailed price history. We...

tesla-info.com

 

[Skie]

The spoilers like to come loose, and I had a Fremont boot that was badly misaligned and caused damage to the paint and lights over time (and slams) but that was all sorted under warranty.

It also has this habit of rearranging my organs at traffic lights.

 

[GlynG]

You get a 5 yr warranty on the restraints system and 8 years (120000 miles) on the battery and drivetrain - so batteries, motors, gearbox, final drive, shafts and CV joints and as the statement is "drivetrain", the wheel bearing are part of that drivetrain too.
I have a 2020 M3P and I'm pretty old - so I rarely use the performance (I know i can beat everything away on the traffic light grand prix - but i don't try ) - it really is bonkers - unlike any other car you are likely to have driven - Its stupid fast and somehow manages to put that power down surprisingly well - no burning rubber spinning the wheels, makes my eyes go funny - think the blood is pushed backwards, but personally I love the Turbines despite their reputation for being a bit fragile - mine have remained good so far, the red callipers, spoiler etc and so the only choice which i have no regrets about was the performance.

Late 2019 and 2020s did see some cars with panel gap issues - which can be adjusted and paint flaking from the sills - but most were absolutely fine.
The 2019 car also had led lights in the door pockets and it was the start of Tesla removing stuff to save money - so they are a good purchase.

I rarely do long drives especially in the winter, but when i bought the car it read 296 miles at 100% charge - It now reads 295 miles at 100%. Having not tested the car in winter on a long drive I don't know what the real range would be - but the car wont let you run out of juice - it will nag, it will route you to a charger - and they are pretty much everywhere - supermarkets, McDonalds etc - just get ZapMap on your phone and if you can, use the Tesla superchargers.

Also - upon buying the car you are protected by the Consumer Act if you purchase from a bona fide dealer - for the first 6 months ANY fault on the car is deemed by law to have been present at the point of sale unless the fault was declared by the dealer at the point of sale, or you have modified or damaged the car and the dealer can prove this (providing the damage and mods are relating to the issues of the fault)

If you develop a fault the act says you return the car to the dealer to fix, they get one chance to fix it right first time, if they don't then you have the right to reject the car and get all you paid for it refunded. Its the law, and no dealer can evade that short of going out of business - so don't buy from a spiv.
They are also remarkable value at 4 years.

Evs are not for everyone but if you can charge at home - and i only use the granny, and your daily journeys can be done on a 50% of the charge then you can charge overnight and pretty much keep the car around the 90% level - which i have always done.
Its the one car I've had that I have no gripes about (except FSD, dicky wipers and auto high beam) everything else is a delight and the pleasure the car brings outweighs any of the negatives.

good luck in your choice and selection

 

[rincewind]

but build quality issues would be already solved/sorted by previous owner.

I have a 2019 M3P. Not all build issues can be sorted. One of the worst aspects of mine is the wind noise around the top of the drivers window, which has defeated all efforts of both the dealer and me, and is very noisy above 70mph (private road of course ) Also some of the panel gaps are not great. A 2021 MIC car would be better if you can stretch.

 

[GeorgeSymonds]

You get a 5 yr warranty on the restraints system and 8 years (120000 miles) on the battery and drivetrain - so batteries, motors, gearbox, final drive, shafts and CV joints and as the statement is "drivetrain", the wheel bearing are part of that drivetrain too.
I have a 2020 M3P and I'm pretty old - so I rarely use the performance (I know i can beat everything away on the traffic light grand prix - but i don't try ) - it really is bonkers - unlike any other car you are likely to have driven - Its stupid fast and somehow manages to put that power down surprisingly well - no burning rubber spinning the wheels, makes my eyes go funny - think the blood is pushed backwards, but personally I love the Turbines despite their reputation for being a bit fragile - mine have remained good so far, the red callipers, spoiler etc and so the only choice which i have no regrets about was the performance.

Late 2019 and 2020s did see some cars with panel gap issues - which can be adjusted and paint flaking from the sills - but most were absolutely fine.
The 2019 car also had led lights in the door pockets and it was the start of Tesla removing stuff to save money - so they are a good purchase.

I rarely do long drives especially in the winter, but when i bought the car it read 296 miles at 100% charge - It now reads 295 miles at 100%. Having not tested the car in winter on a long drive I don't know what the real range would be - but the car wont let you run out of juice - it will nag, it will route you to a charger - and they are pretty much everywhere - supermarkets, McDonalds etc - just get ZapMap on your phone and if you can, use the Tesla superchargers.

Also - upon buying the car you are protected by the Consumer Act if you purchase from a bona fide dealer - for the first 6 months ANY fault on the car is deemed by law to have been present at the point of sale unless the fault was declared by the dealer at the point of sale, or you have modified or damaged the car and the dealer can prove this (providing the damage and mods are relating to the issues of the fault)

If you develop a fault the act says you return the car to the dealer to fix, they get one chance to fix it right first time, if they don't then you have the right to reject the car and get all you paid for it refunded. Its the law, and no dealer can evade that short of going out of business - so don't buy from a spiv.
They are also remarkable value at 4 years.

Evs are not for everyone but if you can charge at home - and i only use the granny, and your daily journeys can be done on a 50% of the charge then you can charge overnight and pretty much keep the car around the 90% level - which i have always done.
Its the one car I've had that I have no gripes about (except FSD, dicky wipers and auto high beam) everything else is a delight and the pleasure the car brings outweighs any of the negatives.

good luck in your choice and selection

It looks to be Drive Unit not Drive Train and I'm not sure it even includes some of the electronics around it let alone drive shafts etc

 

[Black306]

I've got an early 2020 M3P and I've loved every second of having it! However, my wife recently got a 2023 M3 Rear-Wheel Drive, and if I was choosing again now, and knowing what I know now, I'd take the newer car (even though it is slower).

I do appreciate however, you may not be able to stretch to a new one, especially as they have expensive finance right now. I guess I was saying I'd get the newest one I could rather than the fastest...

Funny. Same here; have a ‘20 M3P and wife has a ‘23 RWD. Is her car white too?

Similarly, knowing what I know now, I’d get a new RWD over a P….but only if it was going to be a need-car/family hauler. If it’s going to be my daily and there is another car, I’d get a P.

As far as build quality, no concerns from my ‘20. My kids have even commented that my ‘20 is quieter than my ‘23. I’ve also driven a ‘22 LR that was noisy as heck. So, IMO, Tesla is so inconsistent with their builds that I think build quality comes down to the specific car.

So OP, call is yours. If you want 90%+ of the Tesla experience with the comfort of a new car warranty, get a new RWD. However, if you value the experience of a sportier drive, get a P.

 

[Jason71]

Funny. Same here; have a ‘20 M3P and wife has a ‘23 RWD. Is her car white too?

Similarly, knowing what I know now, I’d get a new RWD over a P….but only if it was going to be a need-car/family hauler. If it’s going to be my daily and there is another car, I’d get a P.

As far as build quality, no concerns from my ‘20. My kids have even commented that my ‘20 is quieter than my ‘23. I’ve also driven a ‘22 LR that was noisy as heck. So, IMO, Tesla is so inconsistent with their builds that I think build quality comes down to the specific car.

So OP, call is yours. If you want 90%+ of the Tesla experience with the comfort of a new car warranty, get a new RWD. However, if you value the experience of a sportier drive, get a P.

Here the 20 and the 23 were built on different continents where as I assume your two were built on the same production line so there may be bigger differences ( or at least different differences) between a 20 and a 23 here than in California.