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USB corruption for dashcam recording

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I like the addition of the lanyard.
The Kingston comes with one too. Not that it matters for something that spends almost all of its time being plugged into my car. ;) But I use it to tether the cap to the adapter so I can't lose it.
As a Mac user glad to know that UGreen's device is Apple MFi certified.
Uhm, MFi is for iOS devices. Really doubt that this adapter has a certification.
Not sure how fast the chipset is in the Kingston one but my video loads really fast and plays immediately on my computer.
They are both USB 3 and probably much faster than the read/write speed of any SD card that you might insert.
 
Uhm, MFi is for iOS devices. Really doubt that this adapter has a certification.

I meant UGreen's product for Apple have MFi certification, like their hub dock station and USB-C adapter. I feel better buying from a company in general that has gone this route. I had never heard of UGreen before so had checked them out.

The lanyard isn't that important as you said, it's in use in your car. However I picked up two readers and cards so one's in my purse at all times and not floating around and easy to swap out. I'm keeping an eye on my recordings for issues and so pulling out every few days to check. Nice to know the other one is "chained" somewhere.
 
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I1Tesla has a video of him trying just that. The connection on the other side of the USB ports isn’t a standard one. Tesla separated the power and data lines. He hid everything in the space up front and to the sides, but the usb cords go through the left over holes from moving the stock board.

Yeah, I know the connector is different. I found pics of the backside of the hub thing on eBay but wasn't willing to shell out $100+ to get a spare one to tinker with, and I still wouldn't know which wires were what.

Maybe one day I'll get around top opening up my car to look for myself.

In theory, *IF* it's still standard USB electrically (and not something weirder like USB over CAN) we just need to find the corresponding physical connectors and the wiring pin-out and we can make adapters from the harness to standard USB and back, to put an additional hub in place out of sight and bury whatever else (i.e. Raspberry Pi running the teslausb software to be a virtual USB drive for dashcam and audio, or just use regular cheap SSD's with adapters, etc)
 
For those folks with corrupted thumb drives ... no offense meant, but are you removing the drive in a safe manner, or just pulling it out?
I've never found a button to eject safely. I assume I'm missing something?

This probably related to the fact the lately my dash cam has been working intermittently? Sometimes I see the icon and sometimes I don't. Drive definitely isn't full.
 
I've never found a button to eject safely. I assume I'm missing something?
Supposedly the dashcam should be turned off by long-pressing the icon before ejecting. However, I found that the filesystem still gets corrupted (it's unclear when exactly).
This probably related to the fact the lately my dash cam has been working intermittently? Sometimes I see the icon and sometimes I don't. Drive definitely isn't full.
Very well possible.
 
First 2 days with a drive installed, stopped the recording before pulling, all is well on the files....so far.

Still confused as how things save and when. so if someone bumps my car, Sentry is activated, it automatically saves it to my saved files folder? There was a lot in there.
 
Sentry will save the last 10 minutes any time it goes into alert mode- so you'll get a lot of 10 minute segments where you see nothing for 8-9 minutes then just see someone walk close by your car in minute 9 or 10.

Dashcam doesn't save at all unless you tell it to save the last 10 minutes (though it keeps a rolling 1 hour buffer)
 
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Sentry will save the last 10 minutes any time it goes into alert mode- so you'll get a lot of 10 minute segments where you see nothing for 8-9 minutes then just see someone walk close by your car in minute 9 or 10.

Dashcam doesn't save at all unless you tell it to save the last 10 minutes (though it keeps a rolling 1 hour buffer)

No wonder I had so many being in a busy parking garage at work. Do the lights come on every time a car drives by it and its in Sentry mode? I assume so as that is part of the activation. Seems wasteful but i get it.
 
I've had a lot of trouble with USB 3/3.1 sticks on various systems
that I didn't have with USB 2 sticks. They sometimes won't mount,
they disappear, file system corrupts, you name it. PITA.

Drivers to support different file systems on different ports under
smaller OS builds, like controller boards, are less capable than
on desktops.

We are told the ports on the Model 3 are USB 2, not 3.
That may be a conscious decision. Using FAT32 on USB 2
would be a better-proven lowest common denominator approach.

Any experience here with using true USB 2 sticks for dashcam?
 
I've had a lot of trouble with USB 3/3.1 sticks on various systems
that I didn't have with USB 2 sticks. They sometimes won't mount,
they disappear, file system corrupts, you name it. PITA.

Drivers to support different file systems on different ports under
smaller OS builds, like controller boards, are less capable than
on desktops.

We are told the ports on the Model 3 are USB 2, not 3.
That may be a conscious decision. Using FAT32 on USB 2
would be a better-proven lowest common denominator approach.

Any experience here with using true USB 2 sticks for dashcam?
USB2 is all that is needed for the original intent, and even with the added intent of dashcam/etc it is up to the task. So there was no need for more expensive USB3 interfaces (more wiring with more stringent requirements, more expensive USB controllers, etc)

There's no reason a USB3 device should fail to work on USB2 (unless it depends on the improved latency or bandwidth of USB3, but that's not the case for storage devices).

I have had many problems with USB3 controllers on PCs, not so much newer ones but in the initial years of it's existence. Driver problems, problems with even USB2 devices on USB3 ports, etc. But never the reverse.

I am using a USB3 flash drive on my Model 3 without any issues. I didn't buy it was because was USB3 so much as I was buying the fastest name brand affordable model there was (which is to say it was neither the fastest or the cheapest, but reasonably fast and cheap), which also meant it was USB3 because that's just the way it was.

You can probably get garbage devices that are USB3 but still can't even saturate USB2 connections, but a good name brand (i.e. Samsung or SanDisk) device should be reliable (At least as far as the device itself is concerned).
 
Samsung and Sandisk USB 3 sticks I have used on the Model 3 have demanded disk repair when (properly) unmounted, then mounted on PCs and macs for viewing. Sometimes files were lost.

This is a Samsung 32GB 3.1 unit

Screen Shot 2019-04-03 at 03.06.11.png



I'm giving it another go on a reformatted Sandisk 64GB USB 3.0 unit, while waiting for a big enough USB 2.0 stick.
 
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Samsung and Sandisk USB 3 sticks I have used on the Model 3 have demanded disk repair when (properly) unmounted, then mounted on PCs and macs for viewing. Sometimes files were lost.

This is a Samsung 32GB 3.1 unit

I'm giving it another go on a reformatted Sandisk 64GB USB 3.0 unit, while waiting for a big enough USB 2.0 stick.

I've had and not had to repair at random, regardless of what device I used. Though I had way more problems when I was using an older, cheaper USB 2.0 stick. Now it almost never happens. I think the last time it happened was after the update to add the side cameras to dashcam, which it sounded like lots of people had to reformat to fix like I did (not merely repair the filesystem).
 
Using FAT32 on USB 2
would be a better-proven lowest common denominator approach.
Better proven?? FFS, USB 3.0 devices have been around for nearly a decade. I'm amazed that there are still USB 2.0 devices being produced (because USB 3.0 devices are also backwards compatible, and competition is so fierce that the pricing on the controllers should've been driven down to barely anything).
 
Maybe it's precisely this price war that's causing problems. And the constant
push to more speed, USB 3.0, USB 3.1, Thunderbolt compatibility, variety of
connectors and cables, licensing fees, more demand on drivers and OS.
Yadda yadda. What I meant was that if you're designing hardware and USB2
meets throughput requirements, it's a simpler, cheaper and more vanilla solution.