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V9 39.7 - Dashcam not working

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If you used FAT32 format, then my guess would be the usb drive is dead or can't be recognized by the car. Try using another drive. If that doesn't work then looks like you have a date with the Service Center.
Pretty standard(and new) drive:
 

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I would be very interested in hearing how long anyone has been able to avoid the dreaded "X", assuming that you drive your car daily. Please respond if you have a long run to report. It feels like we are grasping at straws and eventually all these work arounds still result in corruption....
 
I would be very interested in hearing how long anyone has been able to avoid the dreaded "X", assuming that you drive your car daily. Please respond if you have a long run to report. It feels like we are grasping at straws and eventually all these work arounds still result in corruption....


Formatted last friday evening. 128GB sandisk. Formatted with MAC OSX. Worked fine without messing with it every day until i got in to drive to lunch around 2pm today.
 
I'm glad i'm not the only one here with this issue. I thought it was my USB stick at first... size doens't matter (in this case ;) ) as I have tried 4 GB drives and 128 and 64 gb drives. Hopefully they will fix this in the next update.
 
I would be very interested in hearing how long anyone has been able to avoid the dreaded "X", assuming that you drive your car daily. Please respond if you have a long run to report. It feels like we are grasping at straws and eventually all these work arounds still result in corruption....

Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:

1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.

I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.

For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.

I can relay the following data points:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd

This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.

I then did this:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.

This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.

I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing. I have a disclaimer at the bottom of my tutorial post that specifically states that I could be wrong on some things, everything, or otherwise.
 
Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:

1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.

I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.

For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.

I can relay the following data points:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd

This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.

I then did this:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.

This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.

I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing.
Sorry if this question was already answered, but how do you convert to GPT format on windows 10?
 
Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:

1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.

I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.

For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.

I can relay the following data points:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd

This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.

I then did this:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.

This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.

I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing. I have a disclaimer at the bottom of my tutorial post that specifically states that I could be wrong on some things, everything, or otherwise.
Nice summary page.
FWIW, I have no idea how to GPT, but was running for 3 solid days in an 8GB thumb drive with no problem...until this morning.

One bit to add, if it's not my imagination, is that for some reason the corruption seems to occur more often with shorter stops. So I'd been on the same thumb drive working fine for 3 days, ran to a sandwich shop to grab lunch that I'd ordered online and got back in the car...total of 3-4 minutes max, and that's when I got the "x". The other times, usually, that seemed to happen with shorter stops (of varying times up to a half hour or so). Might be coincidental, but worth throwing in.

I'm gonna try to remember to pause before I exit from now on...but the chances of my remembering to do that are slim.
 
Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:

1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.

I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.

For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.

I can relay the following data points:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd

This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.

I then did this:

1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.

This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.

I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing. I have a disclaimer at the bottom of my tutorial post that specifically states that I could be wrong on some things, everything, or otherwise.

to further expand the grasping, I have the 64gb model of that drive formatted as one large partition and have been running for 3.5 days without issues.
 
Sorry if this question was already answered, but how do you convert to GPT format on windows 10?

You can do it in Computer Management, but you will have to move all data off the USB drive and delete all partitions on the drive in order to do it.

1. Run Computer Management
2. Go to Storage -> Disk Management
3. Find your USB drive listed in the list of drives.
4. Right-click the existing partition and delete it
5. Right click the drive itself (the left-hand square in computer management that says "Disk X", where X is the disk number.
6. There will be an option in that context menu to convert the drive to GPT format
7. After converting the drive to GPT format, you need to create a new partition and format it as FAT32, the maximum size you can do this in Computer Management is 32GB.
8. Once the partition is created and formatted, create the TeslaCam folder in Windows Explorer.
 
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