I had planned to do the same as what you’ve described with getting a LR and purchasing the acceleration boost, but the price was only a $2k difference at that point so I drove both back to back and I honestly preferred the ride on the performance. You do have to be more careful with the wheels though…I bought a set of take-offs on eBay so I have two complete sets of OEM 21” uber’s so I can run a square setup so they can be rotated. I also plan to upsize the tires to 275/35-21 all around on the 9.5” wheels so that should help a bit with rim protection. Ride height is still plenty for what the car is as it clears parking stops with room to spare and I’ve yet to scape the nose on some pretty steep drives I frequent. If you haven’t driven a performance lately you might want to test drive one again…they’ve made some significant upgrades to the ride IMO.
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What motor does your 2023 Model Y have?
- Thread starter JCLJorgenson
- Start date
That's a good way to go, get a performance but change the wheels/tires. It does bring the price up to around 6k. I'm kinda done with modding my cars, even wheels. I definitely did a lot of that on previous vehicles. I did an extended 2.5 day test drive of a 23 performance model and found the suspension was well controlled on smooth roads, but we have some really terrible potholes and broken pavement here in Denver and the ride was too harsh in the performance model. The 23 LR Y I drove on 19's (but for only 30 minutes) was more compliant. Also I know its less than 1 inch difference in ride height but for mountain use in deep snow I'd prefer the higher ground clearance. That can't be added easily to the P without modifying the suspension and risking warranty coverage.
Agreed. I can always paint my brake calipers red and add a carbon fiber spoiler for a couple hundred bucks, but I would not want any of those things you listed either. Not to mention, I believe the insurance premiums are higher as well. Would gladly pay TESLA $2k for a 3.5sec 0-60mph and would do the brake caliper paint job and spoiler myself w/o sacrificing ride height, ride quality, and the added cost to my insurance premiums.
Rogue Synapse
Member
I highlighted the quotes above as I was excited of the possibility of potentially having the Ghost upgrade on the 4D1 on the 4680 Standard Range MY but the latter quotes show that it still isn't possible yet through Ingenext
.....Hopefully they'll figure it out in the near future.My specs below:
....don't know why it showed up like it was quoted?Attachments
Interesting. I have a 2023 MYLR Austin built (mid-June) and have confirmed the 4D1 placard on the motor. VIN 8th motor digit is "E".
Looking at the Ghost options described above, and the fact that the Ghost purchase page asks if you already bought Acceleration Boost, what do you get with Ghost without having the boost, versus buying the boost (they are roughly the same price)? Assuming buying both is yet again an improvement over the boost to more like P model levels?
Looking at the Ghost options described above, and the fact that the Ghost purchase page asks if you already bought Acceleration Boost, what do you get with Ghost without having the boost, versus buying the boost (they are roughly the same price)? Assuming buying both is yet again an improvement over the boost to more like P model levels?
The ghost just makes the car think it’s a P. You don’t get anything different if you had already purchased acceleration boost or not. I think they only ask you that because the module may be configured differently to take into consideration already having boost.
Went to the Tesla lot by me to look at motors on LRs. I confirmed with a rep all the Model Ys coming in are still coming from Fremont and the one I looked behind the wheel was indeed 990 =(. Seems like another batch of unicorns around June coming from Austin? There was 1 demo on the lot from Austin that might have had the 4d1 I didn't realize the code is lower on the newer motor. That had HW3 though.
We are very interested in trying a 4D1 drive unit in our Tesla Cobra EV race car because of the potential for better cooling. We currently run a 980 drive unit, but suffer from power degradation as stator temperatures rise. We have located a drive unit, but it does not come with HV cable. From photos, it looks like the cast-in-place connector uses a different cable than a standard Model 3/Y drive unit. Can anybody with a 4D1 drive unit poke their head under their car and take a snap of the part number of the cable? I don't think this is a restricted part, so I'm hoping I can buy one over the counter from a friendly Tesla Parts Dept. Thanks!
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