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Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk

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The auto frunk issues are all with the latching motor cable assembly that seizes up due to corrosion on the inside. Its not like just supplying the latching motor/cable assembly without the electric struts (Satonic version and others) is going to fix the issue.

I realize the design is different however there are already failures with the strutless versions. The OEM auto hatch is inside a warm car so pretty much protected from the elements. Other car companies do have automatic frunks so Tesla should be able to incorporate this easily however something is obviously holding them back that we are unaware of.
 
... something is obviously holding them back that we are unaware of.

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The auto frunk issues are all with the latching motor cable assembly that seizes up due to corrosion on the inside. Its not like just supplying the latching motor/cable assembly without the electric struts (Satonic version and others) is going to fix the issue.

I realize the design is different however there are already failures with the strutless versions. The OEM auto hatch is inside a warm car so pretty much protected from the elements. Other car companies do have automatic frunks so Tesla should be able to incorporate this easily however something is obviously holding them back that we are unaware of.
Money.
 
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I bought a Satonic V1 (two piece) back in December and was finally able to install it on the car about a week ago. Love it, really don't understand why this isn't a stock feature. However, had my first "failure" with the unit today.

This morning, leaving for work (still dark out), I put my backpack in the frunk and didn't realize a strap was between the hood and gasket. I dropped the hood and started to walk away and realized that the soft close didn't pull down. Hood was down on the latch and I had to hit the release, hood popped up, pushed down again, same thing. Couldn't force the hood down. So this caused an issue as I couldn't move the car since the hood was open and car wouldn't go into drive. It was fine since I was sitting in my driveway; I had tools and didn't need to move, but this might have been an issue if I was say at a Supercharger or something.

I couldn't see the latching mechanism very well since it was dark out still, so I opted to take the plastics off and removed the frunk to gain access to the mechanism. After doing that, I instantly saw that the soft close latch was in the down position and wouldn't allow the hood to close. A quick pull with a pick, there was minimal resistance, and I moved the latch back to the open position. Everything was solved other than losing 15 minutes of my life dealing with it.

I believe what happened was my strap to my backpack kept the hood up just high enough to where it was able to trigger the switch for the soft close, but too high that it didn't allow the soft close to actually catch the latch. The soft close mechanism went into the closed position and just stayed there. Going forward, I may opt to get the one piece, though I bet the same thing could happen to it, but for the time being I will just keep the pick in the car in case it happens again (a stiff wire, ie. small piece of coat hanger etc. would work).
 
I bought a Satonic V1 (two piece) back in December and was finally able to install it on the car about a week ago. Love it, really don't understand why this isn't a stock feature. However, had my first "failure" with the unit today.

This morning, leaving for work (still dark out), I put my backpack in the frunk and didn't realize a strap was between the hood and gasket. I dropped the hood and started to walk away and realized that the soft close didn't pull down. Hood was down on the latch and I had to hit the release, hood popped up, pushed down again, same thing. Couldn't force the hood down. So this caused an issue as I couldn't move the car since the hood was open and car wouldn't go into drive. It was fine since I was sitting in my driveway; I had tools and didn't need to move, but this might have been an issue if I was say at a Supercharger or something.

I couldn't see the latching mechanism very well since it was dark out still, so I opted to take the plastics off and removed the frunk to gain access to the mechanism. After doing that, I instantly saw that the soft close latch was in the down position and wouldn't allow the hood to close. A quick pull with a pick, there was minimal resistance, and I moved the latch back to the open position. Everything was solved other than losing 15 minutes of my life dealing with it.

I believe what happened was my strap to my backpack kept the hood up just high enough to where it was able to trigger the switch for the soft close, but too high that it didn't allow the soft close to actually catch the latch. The soft close mechanism went into the closed position and just stayed there. Going forward, I may opt to get the one piece, though I bet the same thing could happen to it, but for the time being I will just keep the pick in the car in case it happens again (a stiff wire, ie. small piece of coat hanger etc. would work).

I got my hands on the Tylard version and after playing around with it I'm going to keep the OEM latch.
 
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The soft close mechanism went into the closed position and just stayed there.
If this worked, then it wasn't actually in the closed/pulled-down position:
A quick pull with a pick, there was minimal resistance, and I moved the latch back to the open position.
That means that the pull-down lever is jamming, if the motor stopped in the pulled down position than you wouldn't be able to pull it up. (They really should have a stronger spring to pull the lever back up.)

My first guess would be that you didn't remove the little plastic guide on the Tesla latching mechanism, such that the pull-down lever binds against it. (I just installed mine this weekend, and I opted to add spacer washers so that I could keep the plastic guide and still not have it bind.)
 
If this worked, then it wasn't actually in the closed/pulled-down position:

That means that the pull-down lever is jamming, if the motor stopped in the pulled down position than you wouldn't be able to pull it up. (They really should have a stronger spring to pull the lever back up.)

My first guess would be that you didn't remove the little plastic guide on the Tesla latching mechanism, such that the pull-down lever binds against it. (I just installed mine this weekend, and I opted to add spacer washers so that I could keep the plastic guide and still not have it bind.)

I didn't remove the plastic, but I there doesn't seem to be binding, if there is there is minimal but may have been enough to hold it down. Maybe I will install the washers and try again. Just pulling up on the soft close mechanism, there was virtually no resistance. It has been working flawlessly for a week.
 
bought a Satonic V1 (two piece) back in December and was finally able to install it on the car about a week ago
I’ve not been able to find a clear picture of the actual closing mechanism for this version. I have the Satonic V2 but am holding off installing it while deciding if I’m brave enough. The V2 has a cable with a loop on the end that loops onto part of the OEM latch. The only part that makes contact with the OEM frunk lid locking mechanism is only ever the OEM latch. Does the V1 have this, or is it a bar of its own that brings down the frunk?
 
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I’ve not been able to find a clear picture of the actual closing mechanism for this version. I have the Satonic V2 but am holding off installing it while deciding if I’m brave enough. The V2 has a cable with a loop on the end that loops onto part of the OEM latch. The only part that makes contact with the OEM frunk lid locking mechanism is only ever the OEM latch. Does the V1 have this, or is it a bar of its own that brings down the frunk?

The V2 has a manual release cable, doesn't it? What happens when you pull it? If it disengages the cable to allow the latch to open then I think the risk of getting the frunk stuck on failure would be low.
 
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The V2 has a manual release cable, doesn't it? What happens when you pull it? If it disengages the cable to allow the latch to open then I think the risk of getting the frunk stuck on failure would be low.
I haven't connected the V2 to power, so I don't know what that release cable does. On the floor, the release cable connects to the motor unit & pulling the cable only moves it about 5mm before it hits a hard endpoint. I don't have a 12-16V power supply to test it without putting it in the car unfortunately, so I haven't powered on the unit to see what this cable actually does to the motor.

I'm thinking that I'm probably brave enough once I have a spare couple of hours to mess around with this a little.
 
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My first guess would be that you didn't remove the little plastic guide on the Tesla latching mechanism, such that the pull-down lever binds against it. (I just installed mine this weekend, and I opted to add spacer washers so that I could keep the plastic guide and still not have it bind.)
So I double checked this last night and it does rub slightly causing the latch to come about 2/3rds of the way back up, but not fully up. So spacers it will be.
 
I'm thinking that I'm probably brave enough once I have a spare couple of hours to mess around with this a little.

Ok. I had a clear couple of hours last night. So I ended up spending 4 hours on this. And now have a sore back.

I have the Satonic V2, which is a two piece design. A motor unit pulls a cable connected via a latch attachment unit to use the factory latching system to pull the frunk closed. After pulling closed, the Satonic motor reverses & its cable loosens, leaving the frunk closed from the factory latch. There's an emergency cable release connected to the motor piece.

Installation wasn't quite straightforward for a single person to do, although I spent a lot of time testing failsafe scenarios. I can confirm that the emergency release cable will detach the Satonic cable's connection to the motor, allowing it to loosen. This has given enough confidence to leave this installed.

What also wasn't straightforward was the placement of the motor unit. After lining up the latch unit & testing, testing, testing, I fastened the motor unit somewhere via cable ties & put everything back together. Then the frunk wouldn't close. Took everything apart again. It turns out that the cable from the motor unit to the latch unit was being pushed around by the replacement of the frunk liner, tightening it & pulling the factory latch to a half closed position. I had to move the motor around until the Satonic cable could be routed slack enough & not be affected when I put the frunk liner back.

I broke a couple of the plastic clips for the frunk liner & the air intake grill area. The residual plastic bits are somewhere in the bowels of the frunk area, never to be seen again. I hope they don't get lodged in anything important.

The auto re-close on unlatching-but-not-lifting-the-frunk doesn't work. I need to ask Satonic what's going on with this.

My main concern is safety. The Satonic web page lists one of the features of the V2 as "Anti-Finger Design: Say goodbye to unsightly fingerprints on your Tesla's frunk. Our anti-finger design ensures a clean and polished appearance, maintaining the sleek look of your vehicle at all times." I think this should say "Anti-Finger Design: Say goodbye to your fingers if they get in the way while the frunk is closing." The frunk closing motor starts when the hood is gently placed down. The gap at that time is about 2cm, plenty of space for a finger to get caught. I tried placing towels in to see what happens if there's an obstruction - the thing pulls shut as hard as it can & there's no safety mechanism. This is different to the trunk auto close because (1) the powered trunk is common to all Model Ys & is expected behaviour; the powered soft closing frunk is unique & people don't expect it to pull shut like this; (2) the powered trunk stops closing if it detects an obstruction; the soft closing frunk doesn't not have a force sensor.

To me, it would be safer to have the motor start only if the frunk is gently closed, and then manually pushed down one "click" – so it would be an intentional effort to close the frunk, but with very minimal effort, and at which point the gap would be less than 1cm, so hardly likely a finger would get caught. I'm still tossing up whether to remove the motor or not because of this safety issue.
 
Ok. I had a clear couple of hours last night. So I ended up spending 4 hours on this. And now have a sore back.

I have the Satonic V2, which is a two piece design. A motor unit pulls a cable connected via a latch attachment unit to use the factory latching system to pull the frunk closed. After pulling closed, the Satonic motor reverses & its cable loosens, leaving the frunk closed from the factory latch. There's an emergency cable release connected to the motor piece.

Installation wasn't quite straightforward for a single person to do, although I spent a lot of time testing failsafe scenarios. I can confirm that the emergency release cable will detach the Satonic cable's connection to the motor, allowing it to loosen. This has given enough confidence to leave this installed.

What also wasn't straightforward was the placement of the motor unit. After lining up the latch unit & testing, testing, testing, I fastened the motor unit somewhere via cable ties & put everything back together. Then the frunk wouldn't close. Took everything apart again. It turns out that the cable from the motor unit to the latch unit was being pushed around by the replacement of the frunk liner, tightening it & pulling the factory latch to a half closed position. I had to move the motor around until the Satonic cable could be routed slack enough & not be affected when I put the frunk liner back.

I broke a couple of the plastic clips for the frunk liner & the air intake grill area. The residual plastic bits are somewhere in the bowels of the frunk area, never to be seen again. I hope they don't get lodged in anything important.

The auto re-close on unlatching-but-not-lifting-the-frunk doesn't work. I need to ask Satonic what's going on with this.

My main concern is safety. The Satonic web page lists one of the features of the V2 as "Anti-Finger Design: Say goodbye to unsightly fingerprints on your Tesla's frunk. Our anti-finger design ensures a clean and polished appearance, maintaining the sleek look of your vehicle at all times." I think this should say "Anti-Finger Design: Say goodbye to your fingers if they get in the way while the frunk is closing." The frunk closing motor starts when the hood is gently placed down. The gap at that time is about 2cm, plenty of space for a finger to get caught. I tried placing towels in to see what happens if there's an obstruction - the thing pulls shut as hard as it can & there's no safety mechanism. This is different to the trunk auto close because (1) the powered trunk is common to all Model Ys & is expected behaviour; the powered soft closing frunk is unique & people don't expect it to pull shut like this; (2) the powered trunk stops closing if it detects an obstruction; the soft closing frunk doesn't not have a force sensor.

To me, it would be safer to have the motor start only if the frunk is gently closed, and then manually pushed down one "click" – so it would be an intentional effort to close the frunk, but with very minimal effort, and at which point the gap would be less than 1cm, so hardly likely a finger would get caught. I'm still tossing up whether to remove the motor or not because of this safety issue.

Thanks for the report bcarp. Does the emergency release allow the cable to move completely freely, or just releases it partly to allow opening?

The auto re-close on my Tylard style unit is not working either. I think it's because the frunk is popping up higher than normal. Instead of a finger width gap, it is opening up 2 or 3 widths with the latch portion of the frunk completely clear of the mechanism. It seems like the extra spring tension of the sensor arm is pushing the frunk up higher.
 
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Thanks for the report bcarp. Does the emergency release allow the cable to move completely freely, or just releases it partly to allow opening?

The auto re-close on my Tylard style unit is not working either. I think it's because the frunk is popping up higher than normal. Instead of a finger width gap, it is opening up 2 or 3 widths with the latch portion of the frunk completely clear of the mechanism. It seems like the extra spring tension of the sensor arm is pushing the frunk up higher.
I believe one of the sellers of the Tlyard version suggests lowering the soft close bracket to correct for that problem.
 
I believe one of the sellers of the Tlyard version suggests lowering the soft close bracket to correct for that problem.

Good to know. Mine came with the plastic insert to restrict the alignment, so that would have to be removed to lower it. The car is new, so both the latch and the soft close springs are tight. I'll probably wait a bit to see if it fixes itself. Also, it came with a metal "patch" for the auto re-close that I didn't install that maybe that could help too.
 
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Good to know. Mine came with the plastic insert to restrict the alignment, so that would have to be removed to lower it. The car is new, so both the latch and the soft close springs are tight. I'll probably wait a bit to see if it fixes itself. Also, it came with a metal "patch" for the auto re-close that I didn't install that maybe that could help too.
When you say the auto-reclose isn't working, does it not attempt to pull down the hood after 90 seconds, or does it try to close but the factory latch misses grabbing the hood striker since it's sitting up too high?

Maybe I just got lucky and the auto-close function is working well on mine without the patch which I think is supposed to help with the auto-close. I also have the plastic alignment insert on my version, but it's only on one of the bolt holes so there is a little bit of adjustment you can make by rotating it which can change very slightly where the striker pushes on the trigger bar. Also, with the heat shrink tubing I added around the "arm" of the soft-close trigger that bar is now slightly thicker and may help with maintaining contact.
 
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