I’m in the same boat if I were to get a 3P. Basically I need 3 additional transactions - buy winter 18s, summer 19s and sell the stock 20s. It’s not that this isn’t an option, it’s the cost associated. Certainly could buy 18s with all seasons and be close to flat on cost, but it would be nice if there was a more street friendly option with the P.
Yeah, he was respectful in that he just wants to see how it worked for one season in bracket racing (supposedly) and will not put it in points series afterwards.
Makes sense to me, if I’m dropping $60k on a new car I’m not trying to swap parts as soon as I get the thing either. You could roll with the stock 20s but I can attest that they are easily destroyed as a pot whole took out two of my tires and dented a rim on mine last summer. Maybe a good reason to consider a dual motor or a used stealth performance if you’re open to used cars.
I can totally see where you are coming from and you got a great deal on it. I think though I'd part with it and go with a newer one. Warranty alone is a compelling reason, ESPECIALLY since you have the first year of the 3.
You got an awesome buy! PPF and tinting too? Super.... Yeah, I'd hesitate to sell it too.
@golfcart I hear you on this. I wish Tesla offered a more practical M3P wheel option from the factory. Like forged 18s or 19s instead of the oversized, overweight, over-fragile 20s. While I'm at it I wish they offered a serious performance suspension option too from the factory. The EV I almost bought before getting my M3P had forged wheels and very high quality dampers in its performance package, no need for anything aftermarket.
It was a trade in. All the badges were taken off except for the Tesla logo so no visible signs that it was a performance model unless you know what to look for. Turns out when you put the vin in a car fax all it said was dual motor so they just thought it was a regular dual motor long range. I saw the red calipers and spoiler in the pics and knew right away. Had them snap a pic of the screen and confirmed the red line indicating performance model. Also noticed FSD options available on the screen and realized it had FSD too.
I just can’t do it even though it’s the right move on paper. I’ve got the first real production year of the model 3 in a rare color, fully loaded, and it’s got a great story behind it with how I got the car. I’ve had no problems with it aside from the pothole incident that wasn’t handled quickly under warranty so I really can’t complain.
You have to what makes sense for you. My biggest concern about my 3 is the long term reliability. Having a 2018 you are the real pathfinder in that area. Having worked for 2 major auto companies, I know how problematic first year models can be and with Tesla I feel it is even more of a crapshoot. They made so many 3's so it be rare like a roadster. If it is still working well, then I wish you many more years of driving pleasure.
If you look at that table, you can see the performance's advantage clearly dies off. The info applies pretty well to the MY as well. It was the reason for the Y I went with the LR version rather than performance. Well that and the crappy ride and super heavy wheels. It is also the reason I went with the M3 LR rather than the P.
Isn't the LR without boost 4.1s?So that'd put the BMW at #4, behind both the NON performance Model 3 with boost by about 1/10th 0-60, and several tenths in the 1/4 mile... and WELL behind the actual Performance Model 3. (we're ignoring the 2-door or size/space factors, since there was a vette on the list anyway)
The as-tested price DOES manage to come in at "only" $58,995 though so congrats on at least making the list
As to the Supra, they claim 3.7 in the story, but then in the actual specs they list 3.8 (and again a 1/4 in the 12s- keeping the old joke about Supras alive and well) so.... I suppose that does, barely, beat the non-boosted LR AWD....well behind the boosted one, and over 20% slower than the performance model 3....but yup, does make the under-60k list.
So to be clear I appreciate the updates for the list, but neither is really "close" to the #s the P puts down... they're not even quite as good as the non-P with boost
Updated list:
Vehicles under 4.0 0-60 and under $60,000:
1. C8 base corvette at ~3 flat (ahead of #2 using 1/4 mile as tiebreaker)
2. Tesla Model 3 Performance at ~3 flat
3. Tesla Model 3 LR AWD with boost ~3.5
4. BMW M240i at ~3.6
5. Audi RS3 at ~3.7
6. Toyota Supra 5th gen at ~3.8
7. Tesla model 3 LR AWD without boost ~3.9
If you're willing to go up another 5-10k you can get a Hellcat or a Camaro ZL1 that'll run similar 0-60s to the middle Tesla on the list.
