Hi,

I've found a 2020 model 3 long range at a good price, but maybe the price is good for a reason. Its got 90k miles on the clock and the screenshot from the dealer of its charging status is that it is between 27% and 28% charged with 75 miles remaining. This would give a nominal range of 272 miles. I believe that this variant would have had 348 miles nominal range when new, so 21-22% degradation assuming that the battery is calibrated correctly. Its got 30k miles and 4 years left on the warranty, I anticipate doing about 8k miles a year, so if completely fails then I am still within the warranty for a bit. 272 miles nominal is is still better than the nominal range for the standard range models from when they were new going for the same price which makes it seem like a decent buy. Would this be ringing alarm bells for you or if treated well you would imagine it retaining its current nominal range for a while? And if the bulk of my driving was going at 65 mph on the motorway, how different would you expect the nominal and real range to be? Or any other thoughts or considerations for buying a used car such as this?

Thanks

Problem description: degradation of battery

Over the last several months I have noticed that my range at 90% charge was losing about 3-4 miles of range over time. Today, however, after supercharging, I noticed that my range dropped by about 20+ miles at 90% charge. Tesla refuses to give me a detailed analysis as to what is causing this degradation. I would like to speak with the TESLA second their support personnel and have them give me an answer as to what is happening. I hope I am not driving a very expensive soon-to-be paperweight. Does anyone have a phone number for their senior support?

Just took delivery of Model 3 Standard and started charging at home with UMC.
With my phone's Bluetooth turned off, and the car's Wi-Fi turned off, the Tesla App is giving live charging status.
Is the car constantly using its cell signal to transmit charging stats to the Internet for the App to pick up?

Hey everyone,

New to the Tesla club. I am anticipating a Model 3 LR in a few days, so I am learning about the vehicle even more now. I am curious about charging, since I do not have the ability to charge the car at home. I know, many of you will tell me that this is inconvenient to have an EV without ability to charge at home... but in my situation, it is worth it to still go with EV.

Here is my routine:
My daily commute will be about 10km .. which is about 50-60km per week. I assume this drains 10-15% of battery? So in 2 weeks, I would lose about ~30% battery. Which from 100% goes down to 70% .. or from 80% goes down to 50%.

AND, since I have a longer trip (400+km) once every month, I can then charge it back to 80 or 100% to make the trip. So I would basically always cycle between 50%-80/100%. Worst case scenario: I would go down to 20% before plugged it in.
The only thing is, that I do not have an option to daily charge it.

My question:
Do you think this is still good enough for battery longevity? I am trying to limit my 'inconvenience' of not having EV charger at home and optimize the charging with my routines that are anyway fixed.

I know in Owner's Manual they recommend to keep it plugged in if the vehicle is not going to be used to SEVERAL WEEKS. However, I will be using it daily - just it is for small commutes that maybe drain 3-5% of battery each day.. and then at the end of the week I either charge it at supermarkets or superchargers.

I am trying to figure out if having a charging stations is a MUST for owning an EV, otherwise your car will die soon. Since this would be significant difference compares to ICE vehicles - as I do not have to have a Petrol / Gas station at home in order to use my ICE car - while I agree that would be convenient, it is of course not impacting my ICE car. I am just wondering whether it impacts EV cars (not having charger at home).

Thanks.

Ik ga zeer binnenkort wisselen van werkgever dat betekend helaas dat ik mijn huidige Model Y LR AWD moet inleveren. Mijn huidige werkgever doet niet aan overname van de auto, dus ik mag een nieuwe auto uitzoeken bij mijn toekomstige werkgever. De leaseregeling wordt iets minder gunstig, dus deze ronden moet ik extra op de kleintjes letten.

Mijn huidige auto bevalt fantastisch, we hebben de ruimte van de Y nodig dus de highland is helaas geen optie en ik kan ook niet wachten op de juniper. (hoop zelfs eind juli al met de nieuwe auto op vakantie te gaan) Voor de LR AWD moet ik ongeveer 149,- bijbetalen en de LR RWD 99,-, over 4 jaar loopt dat toch op. Om de keuze zo goed mogelijk te maken probeer ik alle verschillen in kaart te brengen tussen beide versies, klopt mijn onderstaande overzicht?

- LR RWD is 3k goedkoper dan de AWD
- LR RWD is 0.9 seconde langzamer dan de AWD
- LR RWD komt ~35km verder dan de AWD op een lading
- Technisch zijn beide auto's identiek, alleen heeft de AWD een 2e motor op de voorwielen (batterij/fast charge voor beide modellen met 250kw)
- LR RWD heeft geen mistlampen voor
- Software matig mist de LR RWD de offroad modus (geen AWD aandrijving)
- Qua software & functies zijn de auto's verder identiek (speakers, hepa filter etc)

Zijn er nog andere overwegingen te maken voor de AWD of de LR RWD?

Hey all,

After 3 months of owning a Tesla Y 2023 I’ve been really struggling with the HVAC energy usage.

After talking with the service technicians at Tesla the first time they convinced me there’s nothing wrong, but there’s definitely something wrong.

A different service centre here in Sydney has looked at it and showed me another Tesla Y service menu where the compressor short cycles too, so I walked away thinking it’s normal. But it’s just not.

The compressor short cycles, as in, it turns off and on again repeatedly, sometimes 3 times a minute, sometimes once every few minutes.

This makes the cabin temperature fluctuate and feels uncomfortable, uses excessive energy and puts abnormal wear on the compressor.

Maybe this is how they’re designed, I don’t know, this is why I’m here, to learn about this and figure it out.

As far as I’m aware, there is not a single compressor on the planet designed to short cycle and that would normally indicate a problem with the system, such as ice building up on the condenser, tripping a safety mechanism to turn the compressor off until it’s safe to run again.

I’ve watched more than a few vids from HVAC school and read so many articles but without tools, experience and more research I’m still a bit lost on the subject.

Can a few people please chime in and take a look at your service menu, under refrigerant system, and tell me if your compressor is turning off and on again repeatedly?

Or does anyone have any clue what’s going on?

There is a low voltage battery error within the service menu, maybe that’s related to the problem?

Is anybody familiar with a way to extend the Used Vehicle Warranty prior to its expiry (in the UK)?

This may be a long post, but hopefully, it will prevent people from the pain of buying a Tesla Model S. For those people who have had a good experience, I am happy for you, but there are horror stories everywhere, and I should have heeded the warnings.
I will start by saying that I received my car on January 8, 2024.

1. Jan 8, 2024—On my first walk around the car, I highlighted some poor alignment (panel gaps), and the paint was lifting on the front bumper. They said I should request a service and accept the car, so I did. The car was also pulling to the left quite badly.
   
2. Jan 20, 2024—This was the first time the car was serviced. They adjusted the hood, forgot about the bumper issue, and said they needed to order new tires to fix the car's alignment. At this point, they have had my car in service for 3 days in total.
   
   
3. Feb 17, 2024—After pushing this service back a few times, they took the car in and installed new tires and a new bumper; I collected the car on 2/21/24, so at this point, they have had my car in service for 7 days, in total. It still pulled left, so I read many forums, took it to a reputable wheel and tire shop, and had the car aligned at my own cost. FIXED. So Tesla can't align a vehicle, which is interesting.
   
   
4. Feb 23, 2024—A mystery crack appeared on my roof, at the back of the roof, spanning out from the rear. It was weird, as it seemed it could not be a stone from the road, and I had no idea how it happened. I booked a service for glass replacement on the roof. Appointment booked for 2/26.
   
   
5. Feb 29, 2024—Told that it was caused by impact, and wouldn't be covered under warranty, ok .. I accepted that and they pushed my appointment to 3/2/24.
   
   
6. Mar 2, 2024—They replaced the glass roof for $1500, and I went to collect it on March 3rd. When I collected the car, it was covered in leaves, dirt, and bird feces. To the point that I could not see the work they had done. It was outrageously dirty. I was told they were under staffed and didn't clean cars. I drove off and cleaned the car. Once clean, I inspected the car, and it was a terrible job; the panel was misaligned, and I could get my index finger down the side of the glass on the driver's side. Body panels and trim had been pushed out, it looked terrible, like an amateur had repaired the car. I took lots of videos and pictures and drove back to the service center immediately, first uploading some of the pictures into the app. They were resistant but after persistence, they agreed to redo the glass roof, and said they would try to address the trim and panels.
   
   
7. Mar 8, 2024—They have now started to ignore messages routinely in the app. No responses at all to confirm an appointment. I had to drive down to have them book it.
   
   
8. Mar 16, 2024—My car went into service again, and they finally responded to my messages and reviewed the video I sent showing huge panel gaps, trim sticking off the car, and badly positioned roof. I was informed that there was nothing they could do for the panel gaps and trim, bear in mind that these are issues that they created. I had before and after images. the next day, they debated the issues via the messaging service, refusing to admit to any problems.
   
   
9. Mar 17, 2024—After getting nowhere in the app, I drove down to the service center to see the service manager. I refused to accept that my new $87,000 car would look like that after paying $1500 for a new roof. I won't bore you with too many details, but it became quite heated as the service manager refused to admit he could see any issues in front of me. For context the panel gap on the glass roof was 12mm wide. I will attach pictures. After a heated debate, he finally agreed to send the car to a body shop to fix the issue. But also kind of said it could not be fixed. I will also add that all staff members consistently use the line 'Tesla are not known for their fit and finish', as though this is somehow ok and an excuse not to fix problems. They kept the car.
   
   
10. Mar 31, 2024—Two weeks later, I still hadn't received an update, so I asked for one. They responded the next day (about 30 hours later), saying it was delayed due to parts. They have now had my car for 21 days of my 82 day ownership.
    
    
11. Apr 20, 2024—The car is still with them, and they have not charged it. I can see in the app that it is now at a body shop, so I message them to charge car, the battery is now at 6%. I asked them if it harms the battery to let it drain over 6 weeks. I was told it should be fine and will last until Monday. (it is a Saturday)
    
    
12. Apr 22, 2024—The car has not been charged and is now critical. I message them again, and point out that no one has charged the car, something that there own manual advises against. I also point out that they have routinely left my car unlocked, and uncared for in any way. I write a lengthy message with questions. I get no response until the next day, simply saying 'Your vehicle has been placed on a charger'. I ask for an update on the state of repairs. I am ignored and receive no response. Tesla have now had my car in service for 43 days of my 105 day ownership.
    
    
13. Apr 25, 2024— I get a message saying that my car is ready. I never received any response to my update request (which seems fair enough after a month). I cross my fingers and hope that I am going to see my car looking as it should, a new car. I head down there the next day to collect the car.
    
    
14. Apr 26, 2024— I go to collect the car, praying it is right this time. I notice the car has been cleaned as I walk over to it, which should be a good sign; however, as I get close, I can see it is a terrible repair. Worse than the first time. The body shop has visibly bent the trim to make it sit down. The inside trim is hanging off, the gaps are the same. The service manager Steven comes straight over. and discusses the repair. There is no argument this time. He agrees it does not look good and must be redone. At this point, I am pretty deflated, I and the manager is very helpful, but ultimately, this is such bad customer service he really has nothing to say. He apologizes and agrees to keep the car and repair it AGAIN. Once again everyone repeats that Tesla are 'Not know for panel fit and famous for having less than stellar fit and finish'. I upload all images and video the next day to document everything. I receive zero response. My car is now set for completion on May 10.
    
    
15. May 9, 2024— I have heard nothing, so I ask for an update in the app. I am told that they will message me if there is any news. I tell them it is due for collection the next day. No response. I message the next day (day of collection) No response.
    
    
16. May 11, 2024— I received a call from service saying they need to keep the car for another 2 weeks due to unresponsive body shop partners and parts issues. I then put a message in the app to document this, of course no response. They are still not charging the car by the way. Tesla has now had my car in service for 62 days of my 124-day ownership. They now have the car 50% of the time. This is not the 'dream car' experience I was looking forward to.
    
    
17. May 12, 2024— I message them to let them know that my car door has been left open all day at the back of the car lot. They did not respond until the next day, saying they had checked it and closed it. Telsa have now had my new car longer than I have during my ownership.
    
    
18. May 21, 2024— I receive a message that my car is ready. I nervously go to collect the car; it is once again very, very dirty, covered in bird poop, leaves, and dirt. The repair is much better, but the tailgate still has a big gap, it is lower than the wing. The trim has been replaced, and is only sticking out a little, but its a shame when you are content with that. I think this is the best they can do.
    
    Tesla have had my car for 72 days of my 134 day ownership - 55% of the time so far.
    
    If I complained about this again, it might become worse not better, as Tesla do not have the ability to either turn out cars made well, or properly repair them. As a former BMW, and AUDI owner, I know these issues would never be called 'within spec'. Tesla is not a crowd funded project, they are a car manufacturer and should be held to the same standard as other car manufacturers.
    
    I love many things about cars; I have now driven every kind of Tesla as a loaner. But the quality control is just not there. They seem to operate using a 'lets see if they notice' Policy, which is why the reviews are terrible. So buying one is a gamble. I wouldn't buy another Tesla, or recommend one to anyone. I thought I had bought a dream car, but it turns out I bought an $87,000 headache.
    
    There is more to the story, but I think this is long enough. I wish I had never bought this car, I am so disappointed.

I bought my Tesla Model 3 in Dec 2020 and have so far spent not one dime on service or repairs of any kind.
Based on the articles i have read in newspapers I must be unique.
I havent been able to detect any rattles or defects of any kind.
Having said that, when tesla dowloaded the auto pilot to my car i admit to hating every moment it was installed.
It kept telling me i was a lousy driver and would brake suddenly when it saw another car or even person.
And if i have to keep playing with the steering wheel all the time, what is the point of having it at all.
TY Tesla for removing it.

So, this one bothers me on SO MANY LEVELS.

Other than you sometimes need millions of clicks to set up service, there is one particular feature which is the most annoying:

When you book your service you need to set up the service location. My preferred one is in Nottingham.
If during set up, in the field of "set up your address" I type in Nottingham (and chose any of the addresses in Nottingham), the default service centre, for whatever reason, is set up to Northampton. and of course, it is quite easy to miss... And funniest thing - Nottingham is not even an option!

Is it just me, or you guys notice something like this as well?

Tesla dropped prices by $3-$5k on Model Y and Model 3. You can now get a base trim Model Y from inventory for $58k, or order new for around $61k.

I don't think any other EV makers have Tesla's capacity to push prices down. The pressure is on other brands to bring their prices down, and this will exert lots of downward pressure on used EV prices.

I would go as far as saying Tesla still has breathing room when it comes to pricing, and I fully expect more decreases.

I wrote this statement:

TrevRex said:
The ability to correct the line of the Kia without disconnecting self steering ie say you see a pothole ahead that you will hit staying in the centre of the lane. Just steer around it then head back towards the centre and self steering reapplies. It was even possible to leave the system on all the time and have it apply itself any time you wanted ie around town etc. Also taking a racing line around sharper corners was especially nice to achieve I think or moving over pre-emptively to overtake large trucks then back to self steering in the centre of the lane. A great and confidence inspiring system I think.

Over in this thread I started:


Now I noticed someone had exported my statement into another thread via the alerts:


As I was curious to find out why my statement was exported I read the thread. Now the part of that thread that first got my attention was a quote from this NHTSA document:


The quote (see the bottom of the document) that really got my attention was:

"Peer Comparison Data gathered from peer IR letters helped ODI document the state of the L2 market in the United States, as well as each manufacturer’s approach to the development, design choices, deployment, and improvement of its systems. A comparison of Tesla’s design choices to those of L2 peers identified Tesla as an industry outlier in its approach to L2 technology by mismatching a weak driver engagement system with Autopilot’s permissive operating capabilities. Unlike peer L2 systems tested by ODI, Autopilot presented resistance when drivers attempted to provide manual steering inputs. Attempts by the human driver to adjust steering manually resulted in Autosteer deactivating. This design can discourage drivers’ involvement in the driving task. Other systems tested during the PE and EA investigation accommodated drivers’ steering by suspending lane centering assistance and then reactivating it without additional action by the driver. Notably, the term “Autopilot” does not imply an L2 assistance feature, but rather elicits the idea of drivers not being in control. This terminology may lead drivers to believe that the automation has greater capabilities than it does and invite drivers to overly trust the automation. Peer vehicles generally use more conservative terminology like “assist,” “sense,” or “team” to imply that the driver and automation are intended to work together, with the driver supervising the automation."

Now in case others don't know:

NHTSA National Highway Traffic Safety Administration a U.S Federal Government Agency
ODI Office of Defects Investigation
L2 Level 2 autonomy
L2 peers Car manufacturers like Kia or any others that use Level 2 autonomy other than Tesla ie Tesla's peers
PE Preliminary Evaluation
EA Engineering Analysis

Now I will be putting on my Design Engineer's hat, yes I am a Design Engineer, that has to consider Government regulations for the equipment I design and produce and try and keep my bias as a Tesla owner out of any more commentary I make on this subject.

I hope others can try to do the same ie keep your Tesla bias out of this thread and evaluate this scientifically.

I have to help some other fellow workers that I employ now but will try to get back later.

Ever since I got 2024.14.6 update a few days ago, my MYLR '21 has been so frustrating.
- All cameras broken ("not available")
- Navigation is broken (car stuck in one spot on the map, like GPS or inertial updates are not happening)

Things I have tried:
- Reboots (steering wheel buttons) - Occasionally fixes it (once I had to do it 3 times), but inevitably breaks again - sometimes just after parking the car for a minute.
- Service mode 'reinstall' - This appeared to fix it, but then it was broken the next morning.

Does anyone know any workarounds, or things I should try? This is so frustrating, this really affects the usability of the car. (my Y has terrible rear visibility without cameras, making backup up a lot more difficult than it should be)

I have such a tow truck but the Tesla owners manual says not to do it like that, but doesn't say why. Says to either use dolly's under the wheels on the ground, which I don't have, or use a flatbed truck. Is this something Tesla says for liability reasons? Seen tow trucks towing them like that before,

This is the second 2013 I bought at auction, not the one I posted about a few weeks ago. This one I bought last week has 199,000 miles. I drove it around the lot and it seemed fine although 16 miles of range left. Today I get back to the auction to pick up the title and check on the car. The range gauge shows 0 miles and it was parked next to a charger. So I stick the charging cable into the charge port, and it's flashing amber. The instrument cluster says a charge rate of 9 miles/hour. I leave it there and check back in about an hour. Still flashing amber but at least it's showing 7 miles range. Come back in another hour and now the port is green and range is at 17 miles. Was the port flashing amber because the battery was so low?

I had my HV battery replaced in my 2018 MX last month. While backing out of my garage heard a sound and found a rod and two screws had fallen from the car (see pic).

I have to believe this is related to the HV battery replacement done about 6 weeks back. Tesla SC can't remotely determine whether the car is safe to drive (just to the service center about 15 miles away).

I have to believe that there is more than just this rod holding the HV battery in place but would rather err on the side of caution?

Does anyone know what this rod is and if it would be safe to drive to the service center? Do note that towing cost is not an issue thanks to AAA (so not worth getting into a discussion with Tesla service).

Many Thanks

Hello all,

I accidentally hit and jumped the curb, damaging my right front wheel (first pic) and back wheel (last pic), as well as the front aero shield.

Tesla quoted a total of $1850 for replacing two wheels (rims + tires) and the front aero shield. In my opinion, the back tire is safe to drive.

What do you guys think? Where can I get a wheel from outside? It is safe to drive without changing the wheel as my car is only driven 11k miles.

I have installed a rear camera washer system onto my car. It is a challenge to keep the rear camera lens clean especially in winter climates where the rear camera constantly gets dirty because of road spray. Originally I bought the Abstract Ocean Superhydrophobic camera cover. It worked fine in the summer months but then the seal leaked and water got in during the winter months. I ended up removing it. So I embarked on piecing together some kind of kit. Here were some of the criteria I was working with:
- Separate switch to activate rear washer independent of the front windshield washer
- Minimize amount of wiring needed to be run for both electric and the hose (ideally put a reservoir in the trunk area)
- Ensure the washer doesn’t block the view of the camera
- Make it look as factory as possible

After googling around on various car forums, I came to the realization that a washer system is not very complicated. You need a reservoir, pump, nozzle and a switch. All of these parts can be had for fairly cheap depending on how you want to mount everything. The challenge is finding something that can be installed without looking too ghetto. The rear trunk area doesn’t have very much space to mount a nozzle. I ended up finding this camera housing on eBay that has a nozzle integrated. It wasn’t cheap but really liked how it looked OEM.


I then looked into finding a reservoir and ending up ordering one of AliExpress. Then came the switch. I found a wireless control switch also off AliExpress so I don’t have a run a wire from the cabin to the pump. Only have to put the button somewhere easy to reach.

Installation wasn’t too bad. Removal of camera wasn’t hard with their video instructions. Running the tube is the trickiest part having to remove paneling and fishing the tubing through to get it to the rear hatch (I also installed some eagle eye tail lights and the wiring is a pain to run to the hatch). I put the reservoir in the rear left cubby hole in the trunk and left some extra length of tubing so I can pull out the reservoir for easy access to fill. I have liners for the cubby hole so just drilled a hole to run the tube through it. For electrical I decided that I didn’t want to splice into factory wiring so just hooked up the wireless controller to a 12v plug. Then I bought a 12v socket splitter so I can still use the rear 12v plug which I often use for a cooler. So you can see the wiring for this part but I’m not too fussed about it. Overall I am very happy with this set up. Too bad Tesla doesn’t include something like this as a feature.

Video

I had the worst time getting 'walk away lock' to work. In my previous two Model S it worked fine but I was using the key fob. With my Y and using just the phone it just wouldn't work. The car kept warning me the doors are not locked when I parked the car. I doubled check driver profiles and settings. Just would not work.

I finally figured it out. I have two phones and the Tesla app installed on both. One stays in the car, one comes with me. I have disabled [phone key] in the app's settings. This way it is not supposed to act as a key for the car. It works as far as not unlocking the car when you walk up with the phone. If it's turned off it will not unlock the car. But for some reason it still prevents auto lock to work. It technically should not, but that's what I just found out was the issue.

Until Tesla fixes this, the only way is to either disable Bluetooth or remove the phone as a key completely from the car.

Awesome presentation. Lots of new information. Login to view embedded media

NotATeslaApp says that 12.4 will rely on the cabin camera for attention monitoring instead of the steering wheel IF several conditions are met:

• the camera is not occluded
• there is sufficient lighting
• the driver is looking forward
• the driver is not wearing sunglasses
• the driver is not wearing a low-brim hat or another object that covers their eyes

Night driving in remote areas (no oncoming headlights or street lights to illuminate you) will mean the cabin camera can't see your face, so I was wondering if a plug-and-play USB-powered infrared LED somewhere in the cabin could fix that without any actual changes to the car. I had an old security camera with a few IR LEDs so I plugged it in and tested in the garage with no lights... unfortunately, while the cabin camera can see the IR a bit, it's still filtered in some way, because it's not picking up much of it. I had to hold the camera right next to my face for it to pick it up at all, yet the cheap security camera itself sees the cabin as if it's entirely lit up.

I'm under the impression the IR filters are over the lenses of the cameras, so potentially one could retrofit a lens without the IR filter (obviously voiding or outside of warranty), but would be nice 1st party retrofit from Tesla.

In July we will be making our annual road trip to Southern Spain from our home in Cheshire. Normally just my self and my son go in the car and the wife flies out to join us.
In the past I have always done all the driving but I would really like my son to share some of the driving with me. He is age 22 now, has his own car and insurance (electric Corsa) for around 4 years now. He hasn't made any claims.

I'm not optimistic it is even going to be possible, or if it is the price may be so prohibitive to not be worth the bother. Before I start looking does anyone have any pointers or advice to offer?

We are going in our Model 3 Performance (Ins Group 50).
I would be prepared to agree with the insurer that he would only be insured provided I am present in the vehicle if it helped ease the cost, but I'm thinking even trying to start a conversation like that with any insurer is likely to meet with immediate dead ends given the computer says no generation we live in today.

Thoughts comments observations would be much appreciated.

Hi. Does anyone know of an independant Tesla service centre in Surrey UK. Car done 25k 24mo and I'd like someone to have a look. Thanks

car parked in locked compound , found hood covered in deep scratches which looked like from claw marks, there are at least 20 -30 deep scratches with various length, a majority through the clear coat. completely devastated, still have no idea what happened, theory is might be a fox or seagull. does anyone knows cost to repaint M3 hood in the UK or is this something smart repair can fix? tried buffing with DA polisher with no luck.

I had my black on black M3 since June 2019 (105,000 miles), and traded it in for my MY in February. Here's a quick report in case anyone cares...

1) I absolutely love it, and I was worried I would miss the M3. While I will always have a soft spot in my heart for the old M3, the MY is just better in nearly every way.
2) Bigger is better. And the MY is bigger. So much easier to bring stuff places. But most importantly, my wife and kids don't hate sitting in the back seat. They all love the move to the MY.
3) White interior is awesome. Period. If you're thinking about it, get it! It's cooler in the summer. It looks fantastic. My wife loves it. And it has been easy to keep clean.
4) Midnight Silver Metallic is beautiful. I thought I'd miss black. But this thing can be dirty as all get-out and it still looks great. The black only looks good when it's just been cleaned.
5) The MY drives great. I thought I'd really miss the sportiness of the M3. Nope. Took me a few days to get used to it. I find it 90% (maybe 95%?) as fun to drive as the M3.
6) The Ryzen hardware is soooo much better than my old Atom. It makes a very noticeable difference.
7) Lack of USS is missed, but it's not even close to the dealbreaker I thought it would be. That said, I'm still really disappointed that Elon removed them. Classic Elon move there.
8) If you're on the fence about upgrading from a M3 to a MY like I was, it's worth doing, especially if your M3 is older like mine was.


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