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I have this high pitch tinnitus-like sound when on freeway and only when pressing the accelerator high, it was annoying. Following some people on this thread, I ended up buying a 1inx1in square foam strip on amazon and just stuffed/lined it up around the penthouse perimeter seal when I removed...

If you are handy person, I recommend getting this for $65. It has more ports usb c and normal usb ports... I added my outside dashcam wiring to one of these port for power, and other port for usb music, and another port for xbox controller for game. Also get a 90degree usb adapter so the...

Happened to my car this weekend, 2023 MYLR -Was on autosteer(standard) cruise at night...then suddenly got the message autopilot stopped will not start again(and I thought maybe I got lock out by not touching wheel)...so I tried again and only cruise will work but not autosteer....THEN while...

Hi, I have a 2023 Model Y LR that makes a weird sound (like cricket chirping for 12seconds then stop) whenever I wake the car up from sleep by opening the door. The sound comes from somewhere in the front body of car. The ac/heat system setting was off during these instances, no charging was...

For the footwell light wire, I cut them out from their original power wire and added the my power wire in, so no T tap on that, but for the power you would need to T-tap from somewhere that has power such as the middle console light that I mentioned OR the power from 12V VC left remote in...

Lights only stays on IF you are powering from the cigarette lighter slot, or maybe usb slots. Totally different from what I'm using. My setup doesn't do that, it uses different area of power, either from the 1st post I mentioned or from the 12v VCLeft Remote (red wire). Your method will not...

Would be nice to have those without tinkering the car. I was able to mod my SR+ car to add the lights. Just another option; it isn't that simple but not too overly complicated, here

SR / SR + I recently got time to add more lights to my car. I added a small light that shines down the phone charging area. I also added two lights that shines down for the rear passenger seats. I used the 12v VCLeft Remote (red wire) as power. This powers the light on when car starts and...

You might be able to order the subwoofer from Tesla part for around $240 based on this post Nice pic of OEM sub install. If someone interested in install, additional helpful reading can be found here.

I tested out more placement of the pioneer 10" shallow sealed sub and tried facing it up instead of down in the sub-trunk area and it made a significant different for me. Reduced majority of the rumbling/distortion that I hated and now I think I'm quite satisfied with my 10" sub.

I'm in the same boat, haha...I got a 12" sealed and hated it because it's very loud/rumbling...went to a 10" sealed and still not somewhat satisfied... I might have to go to a 6" or 8". I never really like cars that pass by that you can hear/feel their sub so I guess I was never a bass person.

You are not the only one, I traveled that same path before and experienced the close near-hit at that exact spot with AP on (no fsd). Tried it for two more times and also same result so I never have AP on at that area if on the far left lane.

Or just get this torx t20 set for 10$ that is more compact and no need to worry that the bit will fall out into oblivion when you are working in the car :)

That's massive...looks good in that red color :) Did you power from the stock battery from the frunk? I heard that it had caused comp. error to some users in the past.

Sorry to go off topic flashflooder, after removal of this piece, were you able to see and access the rear shelf speakers? I know you had changed some 4" speakers in the past and just curious on this. Huntson: might be of relevent from tesla site parts a-b-c post interior trim Trunk_Interior_TI-1770

I think adding a relay to the sub amp and using DC to DC power will fix error.This is mentioned in this thread or this one.

Apologize if I was saying it wrong. I was actually referring to the - and + sign/area for adjusting fan speed, which after thinking now doesn't really have circle area. This - and + sign could be bigger and not right next to two blue circles. Just my thought.

Anyone dislike the two small circles when adjusting the speed of air vent? Those are so small compare to the empty space around the screen function, makes it very hard to hit it when you are driving in not a smooth road.

You can check this thread out: here and here with related video. Also another place you can tap power from the 12V accessory light normally callled VCLeft, from a totally different topic sound thread.

Interesting that no mention of disabling the fog led... So I guess you can still have fog light.

You can read the thread I created here. At that time, I didn't know about the swith 12V power, but if I had to redo again I'll select the switch 12v power...Just know that newer car, there might be a red wire plug into this slot, so you just need to tap power from the red wire.

Another solution for getting solid signal without soldering is you can try is to use posi-tap. I didn't know about this at first but I think this will work nicely. You just need to twist it into the wire to create a connection.

Yes all 3 active, confirmed in my SR+. I replaced all 3.

Just want to comment that it's doable to enable rear shelf speaker/door tweeter and subwofer, I've done myself it as an aftermarket installation. You can read it more on here for installation guide. Hope it helps!

Here's the thread that will be useful if you want to know about wiring Fred.

Please see this thread I just created, Guide: Model 3 SR+ aftermarket to enable speakers and subwoofer upgrade install

It's been a while since last but here's the update, I'm working on the upgrade myself in my SR+. Basically after done, it will power the two tweeters near doors windows and power two rear 4" speakers in back of car, and also adding a subwoofer that will fit in lower area of trunk. The four main...

I'm gonna attempt to do this myself after a fellow has done it to his SR+. He basically got signals from other speakers and added aftermarket amp to power the 2 rear back speakers and the two tweeters at side mirrors.. also added the a second aftermarket amp and aftermarket subwoofer. I ordered...

Read this post for more info. Short answer is yes, several speakers are off. aftermarket sound system info thread

I'm down for this too. Just to be sure the 8" focal you have is the focal isu 200? Also, I'm not sure if possible to tackle the 4" rear doors speakers to create a bracket as well. I have seen dfwatt post where he did it with glue. Just thought if there's another way that might be easier. I have...

I agree, some of us have a limit and only were able to stretch for the SR+. We need a new dedicated thread like this to talk about how to aftermarket sound for SR+. Were you able to install the subwoofer yourself?

If puddle lights that shines downward when door opens, might that not get power when you are driving and doors closed?

True, lights on/off when open/close the console lid when you inside the car.....when you exit/leave the car/door locks...no power will go into the console light, therefore all lights (console and footwell) will turn off regardless of console lid position.

I still remember when SR+ software didn't have immersive sound function. Then shortly afterward, they update the software to have a toggle to turn on or off immersive sound. But this toggle doesn't do s***, just a slight change in sound effect like if you select surround sound in your home audio...

Yes you need remove since that A pillar trim has a small hook section at the end and it hooks onto the front dash grille end side.

Not bad, although it is 4o mh so might be harder to drive compare to 3 ohm infinity.

Another note to whoever is doing this... In the premium trim, at night when the doors are closed ambient light in premium trim is not that bright (I think software turn it to say 50% brightness when door closed and 100% brightness when door open). With this mod, it doesn't matter if doors are...

Good setup! I'm looking for a audio shop in southern cali that has done for SR+ model. Not only do I want the sub install but I also want to find out if there's a way to for audio shop to make the two rear trunk 4" speakers to work (maybe by using signal from the other speaker in front and...

I was able to tap power from elsewhere in car and ran that to the two front footwell lights. see my other thread, don't attempt if you aren't familiar with splicing wires.

I just did this to my car. I think (now) SR+ have software lock to turn off the two lights in footwell. I tap the power from the middle console light, splice that wire and and add wires to run from there two the two footwell light. You need to pull out the bottom pad and also remove the top...

Just few days ago, my car now has some high pitch whistling too on the driver left side, occurs when I'm at 60-75mph. I was annoyed because the pitch is intermittent...Is your intermittent at the same high speed? Time to check on the mirror.

I think I noticed it when car was at old version 8.3. I don't think I see it on even for briefly now.

Here is another mystery related to speakers. There is one tweeter speaker in middle on the windshield. When I had the grill opened to expose these windshield speaker, I did not feel any vibration from the tweeter when I place my finger on it while playing a song. It could mean that the...

Someone went a tried this.. replaced the working door light with footwell light and still didn't work. I do know that in my SR+, when I briefly open the door the footwell light turned on (do work) for half a second and off altogether afterward. So looks like the software forcing these lights to...

Sound is better and vocal music sound fuller to my ears. Maybe 15% improvement. Especially when I turn volume to 40-50%, I don't notice to much harshness in the vocal.

I finished changing all 3 speakers that are 4" in the front underneath windshield. These are the midrange speakers and after changing did notice some improvement. Gotta thanks to flashflooder and all the others that did before me. This guide includes a lot of notes from previous threads...

Good luck and let us know. I actually took my SR+ front tweeters near the side mirrors out and tried to add different tweeter in...no sound at all. Either it is a software issue or hardware where the wires really didn't connect to system amp or something else down that path. And this is even...

I like that they are giving the option for garage now but for 300? Maybe good deal, but for me, I might instead spend less for more funciton such as purchasing online garage wifi controller and control garage with phone at anywhere. Stil thinking.

Another option is to buy a used car mirror (cheap on ebay) that has homelink and replace it with the current car mirror, will require some slicing of wire for power. The only issue I see is how to make sure the ball joint for rotating mirror fits with tesla joints.

That's unfortunate. I don't think you can call a system immersive sound when SR+ only relies on 8" woofer and 4" mid range...at least have the tweeter active to account for the high range frequency sound. No wonder the high notes sounds so muddy. There's wiring for the tweeter but when...