100,000+ Mile Club

[Bebop]

I have done zero scheduled maintenance. Back when I ordered, on Tesla's site was a remark about how much you'd save because you wouldn't have to pay for oil changes, etc. One scheduled service with Tesla cost more than ten oil changes. (Not required to maintain original warranty.)

I recall there was no documentation regarding exactly what the maintenance covered, but that it included brake pads (fat chance), washer fluid, maybe wiper blades. I'll have you know I'm pretty handy with a bottle of washer fluid.

What about the drive unit fluid change? That seems like something that would be important to do. Any issues with the drive unit thus far?

 

[ucmndd]

At the rate I’m going I probably will get there in 3 years.

Also have all of you been doing the reccomended every 12.5K maintenance? I’m curious if people have been skipping some and doing others instead.

I should be there in just under 3 years total. Currently at 42k over 15 months.

I did the "year 1" service at 20k, but mostly because I needed tires and had a bunch of little issues that I wanted the SC to take care of (which they did, in addition to comping the fee for the annual service).

I'm planning on doing another "annual" service right before the warranty expires at 50k, mostly for the comprehensive inspection, peace of mind, and to get a few other minor issues addressed before I'm on my own (I did not buy the ESA).

Not sure how frequently I'll do them after that. Looking at what they do, once every 12.5k seems like massive overkill to me, particularly when 12.5k miles happens in about 4.5 months at my rate of accumulation.

 

[nhajjar]

The door handle issue sounds like the common micro switch issue, the wires break where they flex. Poor design. Tesla charges too much to replace. They can be repaired, there are videos out there.
I had the same hatch water issue. (Open hatch, water pours out.) It went in under warranty in Sept of 2014. They replaced both reverse lights on the hatch and re-sealed. The problem has not recurred.
The seat sounds like quite a disappointment. If it's not loose mounting, my first guess would be a worn out adjustment part; so they might be right about needing a replacement.
Good luck getting it all taken care of.

My local SC (Agoura Hills CA) was very cool about the door handle fix. My handle failed to present, but the motor was whirring. In that case the broken part is a $2 gear. So they fixed it for the cost of the part and the labor ... about $265. Really fair. My guess is, in the case of a handle stuck in the "out" position, they might be able to order the microswitches (that is the usual failure point for that symptom) and just charge you for parts and labor. The full on replacement of the door handle unit is a painful $700, so that is a killer, to be avoided.

 

[Brass Guy]

@nhajjar - If one handle fails to present while the rest succeed, it's probably that paddle gear. If it either won't trigger the present action, or presents but won't open the door, it's a micro switch.

@Bebop - I have had at least 3 drive unit swaps, always due to some noise or another. Never stranded. I didn't list the drive unit swaps since I figured it fell into " same issues others have posted."
The last time it was swapped was in Aug of 2016, with about 80k miles. I suspect each time I had a replacement, a newer version was installed. I have had no issues with the drive unit since then at all. Also I used to get the much reported "balloon squeal" on acceleration, which I think was attributed to main contactors. The invoice from that last DU swap also includes updating "high voltage fuse" and "power switches." I have not had the balloon squeal since then either. This is definitely the longest the drive train has been quiet, which gives me renewed confidence in its longevity.

I was considering paying for the fluid replacement, but that invoice indicates the fluid was replaced too; so I don't have 118k miles on the original coolant but more like 40k. I have at least another 20k miles before even the recommended replacement mileage.

 

[Piney999]

I got my 100,000 mile badge yesterday! Still love the car! I wish Tesla had a badge or decal of some kind that we could put on the car like Subaru used to do. I feel like this mile stone is a mark of honor, and I want to give a middle finger to all those who said an electric car doesn't last long.

 

[Bebop]

I wonder who has the highest mileage Tesla out on the road (not counting Tesloop).

 

[suraj1194]

Summer 2016 buyer. Right before AP2 came out, thankfully; AP makes my life much better. Currently at 58K miles. Only the drive unit fluid change (25K service), and otherwise nothing else needed so far.

 

[gaswalla]

I wonder who has the highest mileage Tesla out on the road (not counting Tesloop).

I'm at 183k... I'm sure another private owner has me beat with 200k

 

[Ianf]

Thanks - yea they've worked on my hatch 2-3x including replacing my rear fascia with the new style before my warranty ran out.... As for my seat, the back also creaks like a haunted house... It's embarrassing when anyone else rides with me because any turn I take or move I make makes the seat back creak... Had that looked at 3-4x (maybe more) and was never resolved. Passenger seat doesn't make any noise at all.... like night and day... just unacceptable for the almost 90k I paid for the car. I've never had issues like this in new or used Fords or Hondas, let alone a 90k car.

Have a look under the external plastic panels on the tailgate. Mine had a grommet installed wrong on the rhs. Service only checked after lights changed multiple times. Fixed tailgate, but still had a wet boot, missing sealant between roof and c pillar too. Water ran down c pillar behind trim to the boot. 2 weeks off road to find that.

 

[glhs272]

I
I free up the brake pads when I get the chance, usually when I swap tires. They stick to the calipers too often.
Still on the original pads (!), I may get some new ones this year.

The is an issue I have learned to be watchful for myself. I found out that my inner brake pads on the front of the car were frozen stuck for a while. Was hard to tell, as the car was still stopping fine and couldn't see the insides of the rotors rusting. It was an issue on both sides. This caused the outer pads to wear prematurely and allowed my rotors to rust severely on the inside. I have gotten to checking them annually now. I also just replaced the rotors because even after I freed the inner pads, they chipped the inside of rotors where it was heavily rusted. Made for annoying brake feel. I think this also caused my front wheel bearings to wear out prematurely as well. I noticed a little bit of noise lately, and when I replaced the rotors I also checked the bearings. There was some noticeable slop in them.

 

[209California]

111,300

 

[dmetcalf]

168000 on my 2012 S85 Signature. Tesloop will beat us all , but good to see other daily drivers getting up there. My only repair not covered was a replaced charge port and a new UMC cable... alleles was just tires - 2 every 15000 miles... still comes out to less than 7.5 cents per mile for electricity, insurance, tires and maintenance- unbelievable to me.

 

[GlmnAlyAirCar]

115904

Out of warranty repairs: frunk latch (~$125), right rear toe link (~$600)
Just got 3rd set of tires

 

[glhs272]

127,858 Miles on my 2013 Model S 60kwh with original battery. 311wh/mi lifetime.

 

[Ciaopec]

Aside from Tesloop or any commercial business.

Who here has been the quickest to get to 100K?

At the rate I’m going I probably will get there in 3 years.

Also have all of you been doing the reccomended every 12.5K maintenance? I’m curious if people have been skipping some and doing others instead.

While I am not at 100000 miles yet, you asked about quickest to reach it. I may be a contender: 2016 90D new in Jun 2016 now has 90000 miles. I'm sure I will be under three years especially in the Merritt Island area: everything is seemingly 25 miles away!

 

[David99]

173k miles or 278k km. Still running great since March 2014. Minimal out of warranty repairs. The good thing is you can get used parts easily and if you are handy, you can replace things yourself. For example I had a small piece break from my charge port. It wasn't critical but I wanted it fixed. Tesla quoted $750 for it. I found a part for $150 and did it myself in about 40 min. Same with the light bulbs. Tesla wants close to $1000 to replace them in the head lights. I did it myself in a good hour and $35 for parts.

My battery is actually holding up pretty well. I lost about 10% range but that's reasonable for almost 5 years and 173k miles.

 

[gt2690b]

127,858 Miles on my 2013 Model S 60kwh with original battery. 311wh/mi lifetime.

whats your range now??

 

[scaesare]

Just clicked over 124K yesterday on the way home from a ~1000 mile trip.

Minimal out of pocket repairs thus far, but I have some rear driveline clunk and front suspension chatter I need to address soon.

 

[Lasttoy]

122k miles. One door mechanism I changed. About 250 miles full charge.

 

[glhs272]

whats your range now??

173 at 90%, 191 at 100%. usually it would go to 192 at 100%, but looks like this time a little lower. Sometimes if I charge it to a 100% a couple of times, it goes up a little.