sduck
Mr. Duck
This is a model 3 forum/thread, and model 3's don't have SiriusXM.
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2020.24.6.4 !
- Thread starter jeremymc7
- Start date
Pluturi
Member
Since it is a Model 3 forum I'll be brief. It isn't a lot different than it was, but I did notice some improvements in station descriptions and they are now grouped by genre.
Atari2600
Active Member
I've driven this a lot in rural areas the past couple of days that do not even have reliable cell service and it did pretty well on curvy roads. Now the car seems to be the exact opposite acting as it has been. Basically instead of heading into tight turns at 55 MPH and giving up control and needing a take over so it doesn't crash it now slows down to take curves and seems to be overly cautious.
I normally refrain from being critical of anything other than interstate driving because that's where Tesla approves the use of this stuff but I'm really impressed how the last couple releases have been acting on crazy roads.
Back in the Cincinnati area autopilot for some reason loses it mind on this intersection Google Maps if I am the lead car at a red light I often get the big red steering wheel and hands and the system bails out. It appears to see the lights ahead and the ones on the right and get confused or maybe it is something else. The intersection does not seem that difficult to me.
I normally refrain from being critical of anything other than interstate driving because that's where Tesla approves the use of this stuff but I'm really impressed how the last couple releases have been acting on crazy roads.
Back in the Cincinnati area autopilot for some reason loses it mind on this intersection Google Maps if I am the lead car at a red light I often get the big red steering wheel and hands and the system bails out. It appears to see the lights ahead and the ones on the right and get confused or maybe it is something else. The intersection does not seem that difficult to me.
I just got in my car after this update yesterday and when I hit the Tesla logo nothing comes up. That's typically where I would pull up the release notes. My PIN to drive has been disabled and I don't know how to re-enable it as its grayed out. I think I'm in some type of valet mode but I can't get out of it. Also voice commands don't seem to be doing anything as well....hmmm??? I did a reboot and nothing changed. I'm on very reliable high speed wi-fi in my garage. First time I had a lemon out of an update.
GuyDude
Member
Pluturi
Member
smatthew
Active Member
Yeah, the improvements are awesome. But.
BE CAREFUL. If you use your accelerator pedal the car disables curve slow down for anywhere from 30 seconds, to 30 minutes. One tap and it's back to the behavior of trying to take tight turns at 55mph. Even using the accelerator pedal prior to autopilot activation will cause this issue. The length of deactivation appears to be tied to the force put on the pedal. Even using the pedal to counteract phantom braking on the freeway will cause it.
MarcG
Active Member
My car updated to this release this morning, and I'm on a road trip.
One new behavior that is slightly annoying to me is as follows:
Sometimes, while driving on the highway, if I'm on a gentle downhill, I put the car in neutral to coast without losing speed.
Once the road flattens out again, I put the car back in Drive and engage TACC and/or AP.
Previously, TACC and AP were available as soon as I went from Neural to Drive.
With this update, it takes at least 10 seconds of driving for the speed limits and steering wheel icons to show up.
In the meantime, I can't engage TACC or AP - pulling down on the stake repeatedly does nothing.
One new behavior that is slightly annoying to me is as follows:
Sometimes, while driving on the highway, if I'm on a gentle downhill, I put the car in neutral to coast without losing speed.
Once the road flattens out again, I put the car back in Drive and engage TACC and/or AP.
Previously, TACC and AP were available as soon as I went from Neural to Drive.
With this update, it takes at least 10 seconds of driving for the speed limits and steering wheel icons to show up.
In the meantime, I can't engage TACC or AP - pulling down on the stake repeatedly does nothing.
But why put it in neutral in the first place?
MarcG
Active Member
Well yes, but why do you think its more efficient?
FalconFour
Member
Every time you pull down the stick while the car is in some "I'm deciding not to let you use AP" state-of-mind, it resets some internal timer that restricts it from being engaged - EVEN IF the conditions would've otherwise been acceptable to engage AP - for seemingly no reason other than to let the alert sound play and to punish you for pulling the stick down too soon. It's been that way since the earliest AP I had on my mid-'18 Model 3, never changed even with the HW3 upgrade. TL;DR: if you pull the stick before it's ready, it'll make you wait even longer, like a control-freak nanny.
FalconFour
Member
I did some CHAdeMO testing today (put another way: I donated $13 to eVgo to bring you this juicy technical detail, lol). The behavior is unchanged since it was first discovered... thus to mean: very bad.
It heats the battery up to about 129 degrees F, which takes about 35%-70% SOC charge to get there (about half an hour or so?). Once it's there, it finally turns off the motor (battery heater) and the battery temp stays stable at about 126~F for the rest of the charge, while finally letting the battery get all the juice it's being fed.
It accounts for about a 10% charge rate (/cost) penalty, somewhere around $1.30 of a $13 charge session gone up in steam as the battery cooling system immediately works to cool the battery back down to 86F once it's stopped charging.
Except now, an added bonus that if you navigate to a third party DC charging station, it now ALSO starts penalizing you while you're still driving
happy fun time
start of charging (approx 0m) - battery at 90f, motor at 4kW (mine is RWD so only one motor for heating)
t+8m - battery at 97.3f, still heating
t+16m - battery at 106f, still heating
t+24m - battery at 115f, still heating (created a custom tab for monitoring this)
t+27m - battery at 119f, still heating...
t+32m - battery at 124f, finally stopped heating at 69% SOC (and also decided to open the radiator... so it wants to cool it now?!), charge rate finally up to 47kW
t+35m - battery at 126f, no more heating but still rising because of heat capacitance not fully equalized
t+45m - battery at 129f, motor stats not being reported after heating stopped; earlier numbers were just "ghosts" so we don't know how cool the motor is anymore
disconnected - note the motor is still hotter than the battery (thus it still had heat it was transferring to the coolant and thus to the battery), and the radiator bypass is now at 0% so it's actively trying to cool off the battery using road air, after having just wasted all that energy heating it up.
elonmusk pls fix
It heats the battery up to about 129 degrees F, which takes about 35%-70% SOC charge to get there (about half an hour or so?). Once it's there, it finally turns off the motor (battery heater) and the battery temp stays stable at about 126~F for the rest of the charge, while finally letting the battery get all the juice it's being fed.
It accounts for about a 10% charge rate (/cost) penalty, somewhere around $1.30 of a $13 charge session gone up in steam as the battery cooling system immediately works to cool the battery back down to 86F once it's stopped charging.
Except now, an added bonus that if you navigate to a third party DC charging station, it now ALSO starts penalizing you while you're still driving
happy fun time start of charging (approx 0m) - battery at 90f, motor at 4kW (mine is RWD so only one motor for heating) t+8m - battery at 97.3f, still heating t+16m - battery at 106f, still heating t+24m - battery at 115f, still heating (created a custom tab for monitoring this) t+27m - battery at 119f, still heating... t+32m - battery at 124f, finally stopped heating at 69% SOC (and also decided to open the radiator... so it wants to cool it now?!), charge rate finally up to 47kW t+35m - battery at 126f, no more heating but still rising because of heat capacitance not fully equalized t+45m - battery at 129f, motor stats not being reported after heating stopped; earlier numbers were just "ghosts" so we don't know how cool the motor is anymore disconnected - note the motor is still hotter than the battery (thus it still had heat it was transferring to the coolant and thus to the battery), and the radiator bypass is now at 0% so it's actively trying to cool off the battery using road air, after having just wasted all that energy heating it up.elonmusk pls fix
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Unless the hill is steep enough to require regen to maintain speed, the car is capturing 100 percent of the potential energy while descending the hill. Any power descending the hill provides reduces the power that the motors have to provide to maintain a constant speed.
On other than mountainous terrain, the steepest grades on highways will be on overpasses. At 70 mph my Model S doesn't need to use regen on the back sides of overpasses to maintain a constant speed. It gets close to zero power from the motors, but I've never seen regen kick in.
M109Rider
Active Member
Well, I have no links, but I believe it’s always more efficient to coast than using regen.
Certainly more efficient than staying in drive.
This car is fun to drive for so many reasons, finding ways to be more efficient is more fun than money saving.
If you want to save efficiency, and have fun , why wouldn’t you want to put it in neutral ?
Questions about this update I couldn’t find elsewhere:
Did they fix the bug with the mobile app with wheels disappearing if you remove aero covers on 18” wheels?
I removed the aero cover on the wheels for looks.
I like the image of the car and reality to match.
The image in the car screen matches nicely (maybe too light of a gray for the rims under the aero for my taste especially considering my car is chrome deleted).
But the mobile app is missing the graphic assets for me. I checked and mobile app is updated/ latest version.
“LoL where we are going we need no roads”
Did they fix the bug with the mobile app with wheels disappearing if you remove aero covers on 18” wheels?
I removed the aero cover on the wheels for looks.
I like the image of the car and reality to match.
The image in the car screen matches nicely (maybe too light of a gray for the rims under the aero for my taste especially considering my car is chrome deleted).
But the mobile app is missing the graphic assets for me. I checked and mobile app is updated/ latest version.
“LoL where we are going we need no roads”
Attachments
I can't comment on having fun, since that is of course subjective. But why would you think coasting is more efficient than regen? Assuming the car is going to accelerate down the hill when in neutral, you are betting that the overshoot at the bottom will save more energy than letting regen harvest that while holding constant speed down the hill. While its true that the charge/discharge cycle is lossy compared to just retaining the kinetic energy from the downhill acceleration, your timing and judgement would have to be spot on see any (tiny) benefits. And one false move causing you to hot the accelerator will eat that up.
Don't forget that R/N/D is purely an electrical change .. there is no mechanical de-coupling when in neutral.
Atari2600
Active Member
In flat Florida I would agree with you. In the hills of Appalachia not so much. Here is a drive from this past weekend. Around 11 am there was a good length of regen going down a big hill, normally that follows going up a big hill
. But there are blips elsewhere. Ignore the single lane farm equipment fun after 11:11. Everything before that was a 2 lane divided highway that had an occasional traffic light for cross traffic. I drove on autopilot over 95% of the time even for the lights.
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