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$3500 price difference for Model 3 Long Range AWD vs Performance. Which one should I go with?

Was wondering the same thing myself but ultimately decided on the performance model. It’s the high end model and the savings difference isn’t that much if you break it down: you’re saving $3500, if you get the AB then you’re only saving $1500, the carbon fiber spoiler it comes with alone is $800 on Tesla’s website (assuming you’d get their official one anyway) ultimately saving you about $700. For that, you’re getting: a faster car, track mode, better brakes with red brake calipers (look nice and sporty), aluminum pedals (this is preference but I think they also look really nice), and bigger wheels (you can obviously sell these for anything else). You also went regret it later down the road because you’ll know you got the best available option. Hope this helps! :)
 
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There's a couple of videos on YouTube, the LR will overtake the Performance at 100+ MPH on a roll or a little after 1/2 mile from a dig with acceleration boost. Realistically when does that situation ever come up unless you're at the track though.
Not to get off topic, but outside of a few poorly-control YouTube races, there are zero actual data supporting that a boosted LR is more powerful at any speed than a factory Performance. They indeed get closer at higher motor speeds, but in every one of those cases the apparent power difference can be fully accounted in battery SOC and battery temp (if not poor controls and human error).
6705B680-0D67-474A-8019-E2A8847137B4.jpeg
 
Not to get off topic, but outside of a few poorly-control YouTube races, there are zero actual data supporting that a boosted LR is more powerful at any speed than a factory Performance. They indeed get closer at higher motor speeds, but in every one of those cases the apparent power difference can be fully accounted in battery SOC and battery temp (if not poor controls and human error). View attachment 866440

Good data, it's still ridiculous that the LR is anywhere even close to the P in terms of performance. For OP though, only a 3.5k difference? The P is a better buy for sure.
 
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Knightshade

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2017
17,057
35,241
NC
Good data, it's still ridiculous that the LR is anywhere even close to the P in terms of performance. For OP though, only a 3.5k difference? The P is a better buy for sure.


Given the price difference is now small, why is the performance difference being relatively small ridiculous?

Back when I got my 3 it was an $11,000 price difference for nothing but a quicker 0-60 (that was when the base P was physically identical to the LR, only difference was software to make it quicker). THAT was ridiculous. (If you want the 20" wheels and whatnot it was another 5k on top of the 11k)

No regrets though, between the free SW power bumps since then, and the 2k boost upgrade, my LR is now very near as quick as that 2018 P was for 9k less :)
 
Performance for Track Mode, future exit-liquidity and value retention. As the others say, get 18" or 19" high efficiency wheels and tires for trips and off season and put max performance summers on the factory 20s. I'd rather have the optionality, rear spoiler is nice feature, brakes are better, and it looks nicer.
 
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Bouba

Active Member
Sep 23, 2021
1,455
1,374
France
A lot is made about how delicate the bigger wheels are...but little is said about the car grounding with the smaller wheels...the other day I couldn’t drive my M3LR with 18in wheels to my hotel room because the drive was too rough...and IF the hotel charger had been working... I couldn’t have got to that either.
Insurance is a valid point...but you know when your insurance company says that if you modify the car you have to inform them..does that include when you buy the boost?
 

jjrandorin

Moderator, Model 3, Tesla Energy Forums
Moderator
Nov 28, 2018
17,496
23,440
Riverside Co. CA
Both are overpriced. Not a good time to buy a car.

People who have never driven a 5 second car asking if spending money on performance is a good idea is common and bizarre. The vast majority of people buying performance have never broken the back end lose when cornering.

This is the car equivalent of "get gud, newb". Whether someone has "broken the back end lose when cornering" has zero to do with whether they like to go fast or not.
 

Knightshade

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2017
17,057
35,241
NC
A lot is made about how delicate the bigger wheels are...but little is said about the car grounding with the smaller wheels...the other day I couldn’t drive my M3LR with 18in wheels to my hotel room because the drive was too rough...and IF the hotel charger had been working... I couldn’t have got to that either.

....what? Unclear what you mean by "grounding"

The 18 and 20 factory wheels are the same total width, and diameter... and the cars that came with 20s had a LOWER ride height than the ones with 18s (it's unclear if they're the same now, but Tesla did remove the mention of being lower a few months back)

I can't imagine any circumstance where 18s couldn't drive someplace that the 20s could (and a few rare cases the other way round)


Insurance is a valid point...but you know when your insurance company says that if you modify the car you have to inform them..does that include when you buy the boost?

No, I don't know that. No insurance company has ever told me I need to inform them if I mod the car.

Further- this "mod" is from the car manufacturer.
 
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