One should not exceed the max. allowed tire pressure which is 52 psi for the 20" Continental tires. With 45 PSI cold tire pressure, during summer months in west coast of US, the tire reaches around 50-51 PSI after several hours of driving in the hot sun. It is better to limit the cold tire pressure to 43 or 44 PSI during summer months in hot places like Arizona, New Mexico, Texas.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Acceleration Shudder
- Thread starter FarmerDave
- Start date
-
- Tags
- Driving Dynamics Model X
It is OK to go over 42 PSI as long as your tire pressure does not exceed the allowed value at any point which I believe for 20" Continental is 52 PSI.
Yinn
Active Member
It's all fun and games until your SC tells you to put your MX P100DL into Chill Mode and set your dynamically adjustable; geo location capable, air suspension into always low as a fix to an unknown problem. Maybe the [non-existent] MX40D with coil suspension was the way to go!
Next up, solution to GPS and driver profile issues is to enable valet mode permanently...
Luckily for me, the SC did replace mine. I didn't take mine in until it was BAD and occurring even in standard. Unlucky for me, the vibration is back on my new set after a couple thousand miles. Significantly sooner than the original set. It may be possible that I'm aware of the noise and vibration now; so I'm more sensitive to it.
I asked about the billable if this wasn't under warranty and was told approximately $800. I asked if this would be covered under the power train warranty for 8 years or considered as part of the normal and was told the normal and expires at 4 years/50,000 miles. Driving 30-40,000 miles a year...I really hope they find a solution soon. It would be rather silly to be changing axles at the frequency of oil changes on an ICE car.
Next up, solution to GPS and driver profile issues is to enable valet mode permanently...
Luckily for me, the SC did replace mine. I didn't take mine in until it was BAD and occurring even in standard. Unlucky for me, the vibration is back on my new set after a couple thousand miles. Significantly sooner than the original set. It may be possible that I'm aware of the noise and vibration now; so I'm more sensitive to it.
I asked about the billable if this wasn't under warranty and was told approximately $800. I asked if this would be covered under the power train warranty for 8 years or considered as part of the normal and was told the normal and expires at 4 years/50,000 miles. Driving 30-40,000 miles a year...I really hope they find a solution soon. It would be rather silly to be changing axles at the frequency of oil changes on an ICE car.
I set my 22'' turbine wheels to 46psi instead of the 42psi recommended on the door. Oddly enough this helped solve a wheel vibration that has persisted through three road force balances by Tesla.
It's noticeablly firmer, but a worthwhile trade off.
I
If the SC recommends the same to me I'll listen for all of about 30 seconds. I'll then pull out the window sticker and remember what I paid, and will promptly ignore it until they find a permanent fix. Until then they can give me a P100dl loaner each time my P100dl is in the shop getting new half shafts. Or they can return the 171 I gave them for the vehicle. See what they choose.
If the SC recommends the same to me I'll listen for all of about 30 seconds. I'll then pull out the window sticker and remember what I paid, and will promptly ignore it until they find a permanent fix. Until then they can give me a P100dl loaner each time my P100dl is in the shop getting new half shafts. Or they can return the 171 I gave them for the vehicle. See what they choose.
Any updates on a fix for this? My car is developing the shudder. Car was built June 2017 and is at 4k miles. Would the shudder be worse since I have a P?
Car has been with tesla for over 40 days now...... They still don't have a fix, started to tell me that the shutter is normal for the X..
DiamondHands
Member
I disagree with the shudder being normal behavior- it's a new behavior that presented weeks/months after having taken inventory of (in my case) a new Model X, and not all Model X's have this shudder.
Right, it definitely sounds like something is wearing out. My SC said engineering is aware of it but they are saying it’s normal because of the strong acceleration these cars produce. The noise comes back eventually even if they replace the parts. It’s really annoying every time I punch it it sounds like the whole car is breaking apart. When I first got the performance update it was fun to accelerate. Now, not so much because of the noise. I try to avoid hard acceleration now.
Glad they are now repurchasing my car for another reason so I don’t have to deal with this for at least a year on the replacement.
Last edited:
Are you allowed to share the reason? Why are they repurchasing?
Just an update on my case, they are replacing motor mounts, they replaced 2 and there is still that issue. almost 50+ days at the SC for this case alone. nearing 70+ days for overall time spent at the SC. Car is less than 1 yr old.
Falcon wing door detects phantom obstacles when the car is parked under the sun with the door facing the sun. Even with the whole door replaced the problem came back. The issue eventually started showing up on the other side. Again seems like another issue that develops over time.
Always low doesn't disable the geo-located suspension adjustments, it just sets the default position to low, instead of standard with a speed-based change to low.
That said, even changing my suspension to low, the front shafts eventually wore out. Just got them replaced since they were making noise/vibrating when turning or accelerating.
Same part numbers as reported by others, so obviously still no updated part.
Last edited:
Yinn
Active Member
That’s correct, but it changes the way the car drives. It may be ok if you only need the High suspension setting for 20 feet, but not if it’s needed for a longer section of road.
I travel ~4 miles a day on gravel/rocky roads @ 10-35mph. Set to always Low, the car will automatically kick out of High and straight into low every so often. Which now means I spend the drive with the suspension screen up; fighting it to go back into High the second it triggers to low. When it’s set to never or even at 50mph, the car will hold the High setting as long as I don’t exceed 45mph for the entire stretch of road.
Uncle Paul
Well-Known Member
Similar threads
