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Are Canadians still getting Model 3s right now?

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Some update on my side... Not sure if Tesla resumed North America production yet... however my delivery advisor told me that Tesla regrouped all the inventory they had available in all the regions and started to assign theses car to existing order. Both my order were filled. (Good news!) but the no so good news is that the cars have 75K VIN (October 2018) and 86K VIN (November).

The question that comes to mind is: Why did Tesla not sell theses cars if they were in good condition for sale.. Or maybe are they car that had flaw that needed work...

I've asked for a discount since they are 2018 and with AP HW3 just around the corner.. We'll see what they say; and I will make sure to thoroughly check the cars...
 
Why do I only ever hear this from left-leaning individuals? Wynn's government got in with even less of the popular vote yet pushed through an unpopular agenda anyway. Now they don't even have official Party status. I think the PCs got a pretty resounding mandate (whether we like it or not).

Another instance of a broken electoral system. Left or Right, Democracy is about building consensus - currently we're at the whims of majority governments that do not need to consider the effects of their policies on the entire population. The PCs can do whatever they want for the next two years; sure, it may political suicide for their brand - but as long as they please their base, that 30% support will always be there.

There are better systems out there with checks and balances. People in power don't want to change a system that's put them in power (See Feds). Trudeau's Liberals are mimicking Wynn on a national scale and the battle lines are already drawn. It's how much Ford screws up in Ontario that will dictate 2019's election. Andrew Sheer has no plan but to criticize the Libs - just like Ford. It'll be a scary five years to come.
 
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I've asked for a discount since they are 2018 and with AP HW3 just around the corner.. We'll see what they say; and I will make sure to thoroughly check the cars...
If you want a discount and don't insist on getting a vehicle with close to zero mileage, ask if they have any test drive models available for sale. You may be able to get a few thousand off the normal price while getting a vehicle with only a couple of thousand Km on the odometer. It's still considered new, so your warranty and anything date-related start on the date you purchase, not the date the car was manufactured.

On the upside, you can be fairly confident the car works properly and doesn't have any issues. You also get to actually inspect the car beforehand, to ensure no problems with paint, fit and finish, etc.

I got my test-drive Model 3 RWD LR 19" from the Oakville SC in December with just under 1500Km on the odometer for around $3000 less than usual. I was able to give it a very thorough once-over before committing, and have had no serious issues with it at all in the past couple of months that I've had it. The only minor problem was a loose glove box latch that was fixed by mobile service last week.

It's an option anyway...
 
My summer vs winter usage on drives longer than 50km ranges from 51% efficiency at -20C to 85% at 20C.

Edit: are your Chicago trips in a model 3 or model s or X? Because with the model 3 being more efficient, heating makes more of a difference in efficiency as a percentage.

My experience is with Model S and Model X, so unless there is something drastically different with Model 3, such as the heating vs. efficiency thing you mention, I wonder if something else is at play here. My family thinks I'm nuts, but on every trip we've taken over the past 6 years I record every single detail. At each stop, I will record rated km used, actual km driven, kWh added at Superchargers, time spend driving each leg and at each stop and so forth. I compile all of this in a spreadsheet. The worse I ever saw was driving from the Northwest Chicago suburbs to the GTA on December 26, 2017. My car was cold-soaked at -25 C and those temperatures held fairly steady for the whole drive home. Had a fair bit of snow through Michigan as well. The first Supercharger stop, a couple of miles from my departure point was brutal. Took over 2 hours to go from 60 to 90% because the car was basically an ice cube. I probably should have just driven an hour or so to the next Supercharger and charged with a warm battery (hindsight!). But after that, the car was warm and stayed warm for the rest of the trip home. I would leave the heat on at each Supercharger stop and didn't have to add any extra charging stops over what I do on the same trip in the summer. At the end, my efficiency was about 30% over rated efficiency, but I never arrive at charging stops with near 0% SOC anyway, so it made no difference. When I do that trip in "normal" winter weather (just above or below 0 C), I see about 10% above Rated Efficiency. In the summer, I get Rated Efficiency, and sometimes even a bit better than Rated on that trip.
 
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My experience is with Model S and Model X, so unless there is something drastically different with Model 3, such as the heating vs. efficiency thing you mention, I wonder if something else is at play here. My family thinks I'm nuts, but on every trip we've taken over the past 6 years I record every single detail. At each stop, I will record rated km used, actual km driven, kWh added at Superchargers, time spend driving each leg and at each stop and so forth. I compile all of this in a spreadsheet.

Not a huge difference but basically heating is about the same watts between the vehicles but rated wh/km is lower on model 3 so the ratio is different. That is 137Wh/km and add the heat the heat is a bigger fraction than 200Wh/km plus same heat energy. If we assume worst case 9kW heat that's equivalent to an extra 90Wh/km going 100km/h.

I also track my drives through teslafi though.
 
... on every trip we've taken over the past 6 years I record every single detail. At each stop, I will record rated km used, actual km driven, kWh added at Superchargers, time spend driving each leg and at each stop and so forth. I compile all of this in a spreadsheet.
Although you probably already know about it, you can use TeslaFi to track all of this (and more) without having to track it manually. I've been using it since the beginning of January and it satisfies my OCD-like compulsion to know everything about my car and its use. It's well worth the $5 USD/mo it costs me. I also have a spreadsheet, but TeslaFi makes it much easier to gather the relevant stats.

If you haven't used it, there's a link in my signature that can be used to get a 30 day trial (as opposed to the standard 2 week trial).
 
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Not a huge difference but basically heating is about the same watts between the vehicles but rated wh/km is lower on model 3 so the ratio is different. That is 137Wh/km and add the heat the heat is a bigger fraction than 200Wh/km plus same heat energy. If we assume worst case 9kW heat that's equivalent to an extra 90Wh/km going 100km/h.

I see what you're saying about the heater vs motor ratio, but it is important to remember that the heater is not a simple on/off device. As the car warms up and the seats, cabin materials etc. all get up to temperature, the kW load drops substantially. I think it might be easier to see with the X/S displays, but I can see my car pulling 7 + kW on the power meter standing still when cold due to the heater running full blast. After the car warms up and I stop, I can barely perceive any power draw on the meter as the heater has throttled back significantly. This is true of the battery too. Once it is warm, there is a lot of thermal inertia there.

I also track my drives through teslafi though.

Although you probably already know about it, you can use TeslaFi to track all of this (and more) without having to track it manually.

I used TeslaFi for about a year but gave it up for a couple of reasons: I had trouble getting the car to sleep and, more importantly, I was finding it to be inaccurate. Two reasons for the inaccuracy: 1) It would miss certain drives or charges, or parts thereof and 2) it is only as good as what the car reports, and the way Tesla presents the data, it misses some consumption (that is a WHOLE other discussion!).

I do use a sub-meter on my car's charging circuit at home along with a separate telematics dongle that connects to the car's diagnostic connector and has its own cellular modem to transmit data. That is in addition to the manual logs I keep. Yep, I'm obsessed ;)
 
I had trouble getting the car to sleep
I've encountered this from time to time, but in all cases it was related to other 3rd party iPhone apps that were "doing things" in the background, even if I had logged out of them. Once I changed my Tesla password and updated TeslaFi (without updating the apps), the sleep issues stopped completely.

And yes, it's only as accurate as what the car reports, so in the case of an LTE outage, or the API not responding, there's the chance that some data may not get reported. My experience, so far, has been that this is minimal, and in the grand scheme it's not going to impact things much.

Sounds like you've taken it to the next level though with the sub-meter and telematics dongle. :)
 
My experience, so far, has been that this is minimal, and in the grand scheme it's not going to impact things much.

You might be surprised... especially when it comes to energy consumption and efficiency numbers. For example, since I got my Model X last March, my kWh usage and efficiency as actually measured is 40% higher than what the car reports. There is actually a reason for this that kind of makes sense, but if you're using the car's own numbers to try and figure out how much electricity from the wall you are using, you will be out by a fair bit.
 
I see what you're saying about the heater vs motor ratio, but it is important to remember that the heater is not a simple on/off device. As the car warms up and the seats, cabin materials etc. all get up to temperature, the kW load drops substantially. I think it might be easier to see with the X/S displays, but I can see my car pulling 7 + kW on the power meter standing still when cold due to the heater running full blast. After the car warms up and I stop, I can barely perceive any power draw on the meter as the heater has throttled back significantly. This is true of the battery too. Once it is warm, there is a lot of thermal inertia there.
I actually experimented with running the heater with the car plugged in and checking my power meter for power used. It starts at around the 6kwh mark, and gradually tapers down to around 1kwh during the first hour or so (depending on the temperature).
 
One issue that I haven't seen mentioned is that we can experience weather such as freezing rain that requires the defrost on high. Having done some commutes in such conditions, the battery degradation appears to be closer to 50%. In dry, mild, winter weather it's quite good and in very cold, dry weather it seems around 30% or a touch higher, just eyeballing things. Audio system on, one seat heater on low. Fairly normal speeds. 1+ hr commute depending on traffic.
 
I don’t believe so, but I have no way to independently measure that.

I would expect it to be higher, as cold air is hitting the car at 100km/h when driving at 100km/h. Which I would think would cool things down faster than just sitting there.

Windchill won't cool the car to lower than the actual temp. If it's -10C out the car will be cooled to -10C but the rate of cooling should be higher with higher wind chill.

Also if you are right and it's 1kW of drain then that's only 10Wh/km extra at 100km/h and I definitely see more than that change with heater off vs on. That would be something like 140Wh/km usage without heater, and 150Wh/km usage with heater.
 
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I would expect it to be higher, as cold air is hitting the car at 100km/h when driving at 100km/h. Which I would think would cool things down faster than just sitting there.

Windchill won't cool the car to lower than the actual temp. If it's -10C out the car will be cooled to -10C but the rate of cooling should be higher with higher wind chill.

Also if you are right and it's 1kW of drain then that's only 10Wh/km extra at 100km/h and I definitely see more than that change with heater off vs on. That would be something like 140Wh/km usage without heater, and 150Wh/km usage with heater.
That’s the heater, seat heaters, rear & front defrosters plus the Model X wiper alley heater.