-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Australian Model 3 Waiting Room
- Thread starter rgc1990
- Start date
Congrats , re the rattle , i saw in one video that Aero wheel cover was loose on one of the wheel hence was making noise , check that may be the case
Last edited:
NoTimeToLose
Member
This thread could be useful, Sparkles:
teslamotorsclub.com
In particular: “Inside the door panels we have multiple clips that are loose inside of the housing the rest. My fix was to wrap the connection in electrical tape which made the fit snug.”
"So once you remove the panel off, the clips hold the wires that run all inside the door panel. Throughout the door to hold the connections in place Tesla placed clips that hold the connectors. Those clips maintain the connectors in place but the connectors move due to the amount of play. The fix is to wrap the connectors with electrical tape so when you put it back onto the clip it’s nice and snug and with the electrical tape that removes any contact points. That’s a common issue with how Tesla puts the cars together. It’s not just where the wires go onto clips it’s where the trim snaps into place those clips are loose and cause rattles throughout the car.”
Might be a good starting point anyway.
Location and fix of rattles in new m3p
To start of the post I picked up the model 3 performance on March 30th. Surprising my exterior build quality was phenomenal but my interior had some noticeable rattles all around the car. Going from my BMW 750 that was my daily driver to then my M5 for a couple months while I waited for the M3P...
teslamotorsclub.com
In particular: “Inside the door panels we have multiple clips that are loose inside of the housing the rest. My fix was to wrap the connection in electrical tape which made the fit snug.”
"So once you remove the panel off, the clips hold the wires that run all inside the door panel. Throughout the door to hold the connections in place Tesla placed clips that hold the connectors. Those clips maintain the connectors in place but the connectors move due to the amount of play. The fix is to wrap the connectors with electrical tape so when you put it back onto the clip it’s nice and snug and with the electrical tape that removes any contact points. That’s a common issue with how Tesla puts the cars together. It’s not just where the wires go onto clips it’s where the trim snaps into place those clips are loose and cause rattles throughout the car.”
Might be a good starting point anyway.
A good starting point for Tesla to fix not end users.
Well, I've done my bit and my bank account is much lower than it was... now, where is my car....
NoTimeToLose
Member
I couldn’t agree more. But the info might still come in handy.
theaussiedon
Member
PAID, now waiting on the text. 2.99% with 4 days remaining on the 180days.......
There hasn't been too much mentioning about this but LMFP has fewer cycles (approx 500 - 1000 cycles) than LFP therefore I think should be charged to no more than 90% only on daily basis.
The cycle performance of the LMFP battery is somewhat similar to the NCA battery. Still respectable and will give you 200,000 to 300,000 km milage.
My understanding is that charging to 100% is still detrimental to LFP, but because of the increased cycle life it's minimal for most users.
But the problem with LFP is that the voltage is fairly constant over the charge curve, so if you only charge say 20-80% then the BMS will quickly become inaccurate. So the recommendation to charge to 100% regularly is in order to keep the BMS calculations correct, at the trade off of some detriment to the battery.
But the problem with LFP is that the voltage is fairly constant over the charge curve, so if you only charge say 20-80% then the BMS will quickly become inaccurate. So the recommendation to charge to 100% regularly is in order to keep the BMS calculations correct, at the trade off of some detriment to the battery.
That's disappointing.
I was under the impression the nikel and the LFP batteries were both rated for significantly more than that (as in, in the "Outlast the car" territory.) Honestly this significantly changes the value proposition of the car to me. I anticipate buying this vehicle and running it into the ground. I want that to be over well over 10 years, and I anticipate I'll hit 15k KMs per year no problem. (also I have a Y on order thats supposed to be delivered Feb next year, which is why im concerned).
The battery warranty will cover you for 8 years or 192000 km.
It doesn’t just do at that point. The range just degrades a little
Attachments
Thanks, @NoTimeToLose, but it’s not my car that has the rattle … I‘ve ordered two, but neither has arrived lolThis thread could be useful, Sparkles:
Location and fix of rattles in new m3p
To start of the post I picked up the model 3 performance on March 30th. Surprising my exterior build quality was phenomenal but my interior had some noticeable rattles all around the car. Going from my BMW 750 that was my daily driver to then my M5 for a couple months while I waited for the M3P...
In particular: “Inside the door panels we have multiple clips that are loose inside of the housing the rest. My fix was to wrap the connection in electrical tape which made the fit snug.”
"So once you remove the panel off, the clips hold the wires that run all inside the door panel. Throughout the door to hold the connections in place Tesla placed clips that hold the connectors. Those clips maintain the connectors in place but the connectors move due to the amount of play. The fix is to wrap the connectors with electrical tape so when you put it back onto the clip it’s nice and snug and with the electrical tape that removes any contact points. That’s a common issue with how Tesla puts the cars together. It’s not just where the wires go onto clips it’s where the trim snaps into place those clips are loose and cause rattles throughout the car.”
Might be a good starting point anyway.
If mine does come with a rattle, I don’t think I can be trusted to take care of it… see below…
Sheesh… that was cutting it a bit close!!! But lucky you - locking in at 2.99%
500-1000 cycles will give you 200k - 400k KMS in total.
MagicalseT
Member
Apologies if this has been asked and answered before.
What is the importance of having the Tesla wall charger installed by an electrician with experience with installing them, as opposed to someone without experience?
I recall seeing it mentioned a few times but don't know why it's important. I am wanting them to also inspect/install a bathroom exhaust fan, so one electron to do both would be ideal.
A simple and "dumbed down" answer would be appreciated
What is the importance of having the Tesla wall charger installed by an electrician with experience with installing them, as opposed to someone without experience?
I recall seeing it mentioned a few times but don't know why it's important. I am wanting them to also inspect/install a bathroom exhaust fan, so one electron to do both would be ideal.
A simple and "dumbed down" answer would be appreciated
Similar threads
