The rear bolt is the one the rear seatbelt attaches too right? Not the one underneath
Was able to get the front bolt more accessible but looks like I need a torq allen wrench since cant fit a screwdriver
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BeastMode13's Dual Purpose P3D Build Journey
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The rear bolt is the one the rear seatbelt attaches too right? Not the one underneath
Was able to get the front bolt more accessible but looks like I need a torq allen wrench since cant fit a screwdriver
I got seat restraint warnings again when bolting it to the seat. No idea why but I've now gone for the rear runner bolt and it's all good. It's also much easier to remove if I need to. That torque screw holding the cover on is a bitch to get to.
Also, finally got access to the front large torx bolt where it buckles too. Seems like it requires an inordinate amount of force to take off. Like I need a drill and cant do it manually
Didnt know installing the schroth harness was so difficult!
My rear bolt looks like this
It does go on the seat belt bolt right? Just cant get it loose. Mine is a July 18 build so wondering if the seat is a little different. The bolt is barely visible in the upper right. Is it metric? Cant get grip with either 9/16 or 5/8
Didnt know installing the schroth harness was so difficult!
My rear bolt looks like this
It does go on the seat belt bolt right? Just cant get it loose. Mine is a July 18 build so wondering if the seat is a little different. The bolt is barely visible in the upper right. Is it metric? Cant get grip with either 9/16 or 5/8
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MasterC17
Active Member
Fairly certain the seat belt bolt (which is where you want it attached to) is a Torx drive, a T50 if I recall correctly.
The front seems to be a T45. But I just cant get it to break loose with my hand allen. Might need to get a T45 drill bit.
Back but is just plain stuck, cant get leverage on it since the body panel restricts motion and the seat belt portion is slightly angled. Neither my 9/16 nor my 5/8 fit cleanly
forgot that. it's a 15mm for that one right?
did you also have trouble with the torq bolt on the seat? the T45 or T50? I can't get it to move for the life of me. feel like I need a drill.
Sorry to hear that. The Quickfit was one of the easier install I’ve done on the car. I do recall the bolts on the seat did took some effort, but a hand wrench would be suffice.
You need to pop off the bottom of the bolster panel in order to reach that seat belt bolt. I think 15mm is the right size.
Yea I was thinking needed to pop off the bolster panel to truly get access. Any trick there?
Hah if I can just get the torq45 on the front seat to come loose without a drill I would be happy! My allen key just doesnt budge
Just pull from the bottom, it will pop out, no need to take out the whole thing. There is a clip in the upper portion that breaks easily.
For the torq45, I had to use a 3/8 click style torque wrench. It also has blue lock tight on it. Allen key maybe too small to move it.
If it's got blue loctite is it really considered safe to take out and put back in? Unsure how critical it is for the safety of the seat.
Well, the good thing is that if the bolt comes loose, you'll know since the new piece you added will be rattling.
@beastmode13 @MasterC17 did you both break the blue loctite and reapply? or simply bolt it back in without loctite. For the front seat bolt.
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Doing a pre track day inspection of suspension and brake.
MasterC17
Active Member
After months of waiting to get back on the track. I finally gave the AP Competition BBK a good work out at Laguna Seca on 7/26. My brake setup at this moment. Front AP Competition (AKB springs removed) with Endless EX99 pad. Rear stock Brembo caliper with RB rotor and Endless EX90 pad. Endless RF650 fluid. MPP BMC brace. The brake system performed flawlessly in four sessions. I typically drive between 7 to 11 laps. Each lap consumes between 5 to 7% of charge. The pedal feel lost a bit of the firmness after the 1st session, and then it just stays the same for the rest of the day. I attribute the change of pedal feel to the slight uneven pad material deposit on both the rear and the front rotors. Regardless of the pedal feel, it didn't change the ease of modulation and the brake force. Having consistent brake for the entire day is a confident inspiring. A day of flogging also reduced the buzzy sound produced by the J-hook rotors. @Lucky13
For the next track day, I will use EX99 for the rear as well. I have the pads, was just too lazy to change it out.
The @MountainPass front lower control arm bushing is a must for drivers that like predictability. I have never hit so many apexes in my 3 before. The combination of extra traction from #noshim FUCA and the bushing transform the 3 car into a much more capable, predictable, and enjoyable track car.
For the next track day, I will use EX99 for the rear as well. I have the pads, was just too lazy to change it out.
The @MountainPass front lower control arm bushing is a must for drivers that like predictability. I have never hit so many apexes in my 3 before. The combination of extra traction from #noshim FUCA and the bushing transform the 3 car into a much more capable, predictable, and enjoyable track car.
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