I just bought all of the parts for about $20. I'll do it today and report back.
Use a GFCI breaker !!! Won’t be $20.
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I just bought all of the parts for about $20. I'll do it today and report back.
If you have a single 5-20 outlet on a circuit, you must make a change at the panel to charge at 6-20, right? I saw on another post someone said to make or find an adapter and the UMC would pick up on the voltage change but don't see how that could work. I found this adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TJZ29JJ
What is it's purpose?
Thanks Kirby. Last question. The wires from the panel box are 14/2. Is that okay for 6-15? I know it’s not enough for 6-20 unfortunately.
Thanks Kirby. Last question. The wires from the panel box are 14/2. Is that okay for 6-15? I know it’s not enough for 6-20 unfortunately.
That looks really bad. The only way that adapter would work is to pull a load on ground (illegal). Because that’s the only way you can get 120V from a 6-20.
Actually if you look at it, you'll realize that it's just a broken listing. The title is for a 6-20 to 6-15/20 adapter, and the picture and description are for a 5-20 to 5-15/20 adapter. Lord knows what you'd actually receive if you ordered it.That adapter doesn't do anything special. No load would be put on the ground. It would just allow you to plug in a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 into that adapter and get 240V across the leads. Code complaint? Probably not. But if you use it with your UMC, it would work perfectly fine to pull 240V/12A.
I've got a similar cheater plug that has a NEMA 5-15 plug on one end, and a NEMA 5-15/20 receptacle on the other end. Useful if you want to eek out another 4 amps out of a NEMA 5-15 backed with 12 gauge wire...
That adapter doesn't do anything special. No load would be put on the ground. It would just allow you to plug in a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 into that adapter and get 240V across the leads. Code complaint? Probably not. But if you use it with your UMC, it would work perfectly fine to pull 240V/12A.
I've got a similar cheater plug that has a NEMA 5-15 plug on one end, and a NEMA 5-15/20 receptacle on the other end. Useful if you want to eek out another 4 amps out of a NEMA 5-15 backed with 12 gauge wire...
That's probably as crazy as pulling 120V on Ground. Also probably why it's not available.
I've read that the mobile charger has a GFCI built-in. Do you still need the breaker to have GFCI?Yes. Make sure to use a GFCI breaker too.
I've read that the mobile charger has a GFCI built-in. Do you still need the breaker to have GFCI?
Yes, code requires a GFCI on an outdoor outlet at 50a or below (that's a new change, it used to be below 50a).
Edit: Changed above from "circuit" to "outlet".
Edit Again: Sorry - I keep forgetting your not USA, so your mileage may vary. But the risk is similar as it could be used for another purpose and/or you might be standing in water when you are actually plugging in the plug.
That adapter doesn't do anything special. No load would be put on the ground. It would just allow you to plug in a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 into that adapter and get 240V across the leads. Code complaint? Probably not. But if you use it with your UMC, it would work perfectly fine to pull 240V/12A.
I've got a similar cheater plug that has a NEMA 5-15 plug on one end, and a NEMA 5-15/20 receptacle on the other end. Useful if you want to eek out another 4 amps out of a NEMA 5-15 backed with 12 gauge wire...
I’m astounded by the assumption it’s only feeding one receptacle. Unless it’s in conduit that you can easily trace, it would remain just that, an assumption. Then at some time in the future when something gets plugged into that newly minted 240 volt circuit somewhere else, get ready for the “magic smoke” being released. Did you never watch Tim Allen’s Home improvement...? Keep that fire insurance paid up... Just like the climbing adage, never climb higher than you’re willing to fall from...Yep, I already tested for other outlets. It's labeled "freezer" and it's in the garage so I'm assuming it was an addition at some point previously just for a deep freeze.
I believe he's talking about the other way. It's using a Tesla 5-20 adapter, but getting a way to plug that into a 5-15 receptacle where that normally won't fit. But again, proper safety warning: that you should only do that if you've confirmed it has the appropriate 12 gauge wire so it can function as if it's a 20A circuit.so a cheater plug would work with a standard Tesla 5-15 UMC and eek another 4 amps? link to cheater plug ? do you need a different UMC adapter as well?
I still don't think you're getting the paradigm of what's going on here. This isn't really breaking or mismatching anything.I'm pretty sure the UMC is smart enough to know which plug is plugged into it and won't allow different current/Volts than what is expected.
Usually not. This has been looked at a lot, and from most manufacturers, they don't want to bother with extra overhead cost of stocking separate parts and running manufacturing lines two different ways and keeping track of inventory for the different kinds of pieces all the way back through what it takes to put these together, so the internal guts and parts are the same thing inside the 5-15 and 5-20 and both will handle 20A fine. They just have a different plastic face plate.The 5-15 outlets themselves are only rated for 15A.
So the outlet isn't where the limitation is at all. It's there to be basically like a keyed padlock or a doorkeeper to enforce a limitation on the outside that will match what the wire is in the circuit. If the circuit is thinner wire and is a 15A circuit behind the scenes, then NEC enforces that it must use only the 5-15 outlets, because you need to not have 20A drawing appliances plug into that. But if the wire in the wall is really a 20A circuit, then it's more permissive. You can plug in 15A or 20A appliances, and they will handle either fine, so NEC allows that you can put whichever style of outlet you have on it.Sure, you could probably pull 20A (16A is actually what it will pull...80% of the rating), but it is outside of the spec and could result in heating. I couldn't sleep soundly at night knowing that I'm pulling 16A through an outlet only rated to 15A (12A continuous).
If it were your own house, sure. But I think we're talking about kind of general broad applications. If you're visiting somewhere, you're not necessarily going to go to a hardware store and go changing outlets in their building.The best thing to do (if it's truly a 20A circuit with the appropriate gauge of wiring), is to replace the outlet with a 5-20...that's like $10.